gotbooost

ok that blows my whole plan to hell...

so i have a couple more questions if you all dont mind

how much boost w/o the headgasket?

and which headgasket are u guys using?? from my research (just from sf board and this board) the 2jz-gte headgasket does NOT fit.. i did see something from some website about the 2x or 3x layered hg for the 2jz-ge...

again thanks for the info! (you may have saved me the headache of a blown motor even though it will be dyno tuned..)

Lex Luthor

SC300T and the other NA-T guys may feel differently, but I would not run over a half bar on stock compression, especially if you're talking about 91 octane, around here we have 94 at the pump, and access to airplane fuel if need be. If you can get your hands on some better fuel, you might want to try as much as 10 pounds, if your EGT's are reasonable and consistent. Me personally, I think you'll have the pin half-way out of the grenade @ that point...
The GTE head gasket will fit, i'm using two of them, don't plan to have to re-rivet the layers together even, long as you're on the dowels carefully...

awj

I hit 19 psi once with the controller maxed. . I went 15 to 17 on 3 or 4 pulls as well. It has since been dialed back to 6 since the old lady is giving it a twice a month stroll for me. I guess I need pointers on detonation because I didn't notice anything wrong less a slight rumble in first gear on the 19 psi pull and a leaky steering pump. I don't have an egt gauge set up though.

That was 94 octane, by the way, at 10:1 - the car runs extremely rich. I can taste the fuel sometimes. No wideband either. After the k40 - I think wideband and egt will be the next investment. Then some et streets.

Angel

I have an HKS 1.6mm headgasket for sale if you are interested ....

SC300T

No Lex, I pretty much agree with what you're saying. 91 octane is pretty lame... I'd say 7-8 psi max on that junk. We also have 94 here, I can get a solid 9psi in a very unstressed condition with that fuel. As mentioned every general aviation airport sells 100LL (low lead) which could potentially be used, but read up on the specifics, the formulation is different and has some plusses and minuses. 100LL is designed mainly to support the General Aviation fleet, a high percentage of which has a turbocharger. 10psi on 94 is about the max for me in an across the board setting. The engine will take as much as 14psi above around 5200rpm on 94 octane because VE is on its way down, but you've got to know what you're doing--not something for installations without extensive monitoring equpment. FWIW EGTs are very low in the 9psi range--- I'm seeing something like 1450F peak in 4th gear with the probe in the plenum 6" from the nearest exhaust port. I've run 18psi on straight 115 octane leaded race gas, at a 12.3 A/F but that's pushing it, 1650F EGT and (NOT RECOMMENDED!). The main thing is to choose a turbo that will be efficient at the low boost you're running, and typically that is a smaller turbo with a larger A/R on the exhaust side.

93LexMojo

SAFC will work fine with 720's no problem. I have 720's on my Supra with the AFC and VPC and works fine.

Also the T60-1 will work fine on a compression of 8.5:1, I know several friend's running this same turbo on their cars with this compression. The T60-1 is a small turbo with max output power around 550. And to get 550 out of this turbo you need to be running race gas and high boost.

I don't recommend anyone running stock compression to turn boost up anything over 8psi to be safe. Dont even think about going 1bar on a 10.0:1 compression.

TurboB6

I believe he meant only running a AFC to control the 720's which it won't do. I.e. no VPC like your running

93LexMojo

Ok I see cool, then I retract my statement regarding the AFC

SC300T

Wow you have several freinds with the T60-1 on an SC300 or Supra NA?

awj

Doesn't everyone have a T60-1? I hope to get out and grab some times before the season is over. I'll start end of July on the 8th and get the shifting down. Maybe run up towards Cincy and hit a couple of your guys tracks. In the winter I want to tear the set-up down. I don't have good specs on the t3/04 poor record on the car when I bought it; but I have a feeling it is a v1/v2 - wich has an excellent compressor map. I'll put a an egt and wideband in then on the teardown. Check out the turbo and look for any signs of problems. The bay needs a clean up anyways and I can get more familiar with everything goin on in there. 1650F is too hot? Any ventures to guess an ideal egt range? Lance did the current tune on the car back when it was listed for sale, but I have no idea what the conditions were when that tune was done.

SC300T

I feel that 1650F is too hot... Depends on location of the EGT probe, though. If the probe is after the turbo 1650 is WAY too hot. If its sitting an inch off the exhaust port, perhaps not. Just my .02.

BTW... If you wanna grab some times, you can have mine, they all suck this year... Its funny, I can run a 13.4@107 with 300rwhp or I can run a 13.4@116 with 500+rwhp - take yer pick.

gotbooost

hmm... ill post some numbers when i get my install all done..
the shop that is fabricating my turbo setup has a dyno

hey scott i went to your website and noticed that you are shooting to put in the auto TT diff soon?
we tried that out on sunday and it didnt go as planned..
i swear i searched about a detailed install for this, and it appeared to me that it was a completely bolt on affair.. but after sunday i have to say that it ISNT:

the auto TT diff will bolt up to everything BUT the driveshaft... thats where we had trouble. The part off of the old diff that connects to the driveshaft has to be gunned off and put onto the "new" supra auto TT diff, along with that crush washer thing (basically since i didnt know that i needed this we had to slap my old diff back in!) great waste of a couple hours!

i thought i would post this info for people that had the impression that it is "BOLT ON!" It actually LOOKS like it fits, but it dont..

SC300T

Thanks for the update... I was just planning on using my original diff housing, ring and pinion and basically everything except for the differential cartridge (carrier and gears). I was gonna swap the cartridge with the TRD unit. Do you still think I'd run into issues?

gotbooost

sounds like you know a lot more about the diff than me
this is my first real RWD car (i had a couple turbo hondas and a turbo mr2)
i have never actually taken the diff apart; like i said we just noticed that the 3 bolts that connect the diff to the driveshaft wouldnt go in anymore because there was a difference of about 2mm or so (just guessing here).

My friend/mechanic did say that we would need that new crush washer if the diff came apart; and that it is best left to a tranny shop to do it because that crush washer is pretty sensitive... i did read some other post on clublexus about a guy with a 400 that got into trouble messin with this crush washer by himself..

as far as the TRD LSD goes..
From the research I have done (including contacting some shops) it definitely should fit with no prob!!
I guess this is just something I wouldn't try to do personally b/c of my friend's reccommendation.

Good Luck with the install scott!

Oh a last note on fluids: I read many debates on supraforums on what oil to use in a Torsen LSD (like the supra TT auto) and I like redline fluids so i emailed them about the 94-95 supra TT auto diff..
They just reccommended the 75-90 normal gear oil (with friction modifiers)
I've had good experiences with redline before so thats what im stickin to!
Since the TRD is a normal clutch type LSD i think you may want to try it out

SC300T

Some say the TRD is better for drag racing, most will tell you that its more resistant to breakage... Since the 3 bolts didn't match up properly, did you just have to bore out the holes a little on the LSD input shaft flange?