gotbooost

the driveshaft flange appears to be rubber with metal inserts if i remember correctly...
on the auto TT diff the holes that are supposed to match up are spaced closer together
i thought about drilling the holes out a little, or stretching out the rubber, but i just decided to do it the right way:
buy that flange for the diff from toyota (for the na supra diff) and have a tranny shop slap that flange in w/ new crush washer

btw.. when i took out my old diff (i got 113k now on a 92 5 speed) it was kinda messed up..
as in when you spin the part that connects to the driveshaft, it wasnt smooth at all.. really really rough.. so i figure this diff was about to go.. you can actually check this on your car by just disconnecting the axles and driveshaft, and then turning those two parts that connect to the axles... i turned the "new" auto TT diff the same way (without any oil in either) and it was VERY smooth.. so i'm kinda glad that i didnt get the TRD diff just because i might have to put more money into this

MAYBE that explains my dyno sheet.. its really really bumpy.. nothing like any other dyno sheets ive ever seen before! looks like an earthquake! and that might also explain the whopping 180 rwhp!

93LexMojo

I have a few friend's with the T60-1 on their SC300's, MKIV N/A's, and MKIV TT's. This is a pretty popular turbo setup for any if you have the 550's in. The thing spools up very quick and is capable of putting down 550rwhp. A good friend of mine with a 94MKIVTT put down 538rwhp on 22psi with a mix of 93 and 116. I plan to start documenting my turbo upgrade soon on here. I am taking no short cuts in my install. I will have full fuel system, T61 .81a/r turbo, SP SS header, JE pistons, Blitz FMIC, etc...

gotbooost

I supposedly have a T66 with an a/r of .84 or .86 lined up for my car.. goal is to hit about 500rwhp.. this T60-1 sounds pretty good though..

do you guys think the T66 is gonna be overkill and that i will just be getting more lag and not be using the full potential of that turbo??

if so maybe ill go for the T60-1.. (im assuming its a little smaller than the T66 but i dont really know)

Lex Luthor

It's quite a bit smaller...

93LexMojo

A T66 is a very nice turbo for those with upgraded fuel system and lowered compression. You will easily see over 500rwhp with this turbo. I know a few fellow Supra buddies who are running T66's on stock 550's. They have to keep the boost down on pump gas though. The benefit of the T66 is that you could make a lot more power on pump gas provided your A/F ratio is good. Lag is very overrated in my opinion. I have a T04R with .96 a/r and many will tell you that thing spools up great.

gotbooost

sounds good... thanks for the info guys!!!

William N.

iTrader: (2)

After a week of install, I am finally NA-T. Motorheaddown(Scott) helped me with the oil return line and dohc3l helped me with the piping and let me borrow his tools. I just wanted to let you guys know that I have completed it and its running great! I'll will be updating this shortly..

William

awj

Congrats!

gotbooost

will you get some dyno tuning in there?? i would love to see some numbers with that turbo..

bigwillyc

I just picked up a 5-speed sc300 and turboing it is a must. No ifs ands or buts about it. Here is what I know/picked up along the way mainly from NA supra guys that are doing the "kit"...

Basically you need to 3mm head gasket to lower the compression ratio to 8.5:1 is this correct? Then throw some ARP head studs in there to clap that **** down!!

With that done you need to look at the fuel system. I have a TT pump which should be pretty good rewired. I would like to go with at least 550cc injectors maybe 660's. Therefore a VPC is the way to go if you can find them.... I have a turbo eclipse and I am running 660's right now so I can steal those from the car maybe if they clip up the same.

I personally would like to go lager than a 60-1 or all other T4 turbos. I like the idea of a T-66 actaully... I have a 57 trim turbo on my eclipse and the "lag" doesn't bother me. I would LIKE to be in the 400hp range and boosting 20psi if not more.

Turbo supras have oil squirters. Has anyone tore appart a n/a block after they turboed it and noticed anything bad under the pistons? If it isn't a problem then I am not too worried. Just get a air/air oil cooler to keep those temps down?

IC pipes and all that is easy. I and confident I can take care of that on my own. That and having an exhuast shop build a downpipe and most of the exhaust. How good is the NA fuel pressure regulator? Should it be replaced with a adjustable unit?

That is all I can think of. Except what do all these kits use to retard timing under boost? I don't know for sure how the N/A's do timing but at WOT you would *like* to be at around 20 degrees advanced... anything really high is no good. You know how the honda crowd need the FMU or whatever... how is this solved IF this is in fact a problem? Oh and how well will the tranny hold up??

If I am incorrect on any of this please correct me. I am new to this world and want something a lil more reliable that my DSM (damn ****ty motors)

Thanks for the *lengthy* space

Will
90 Eclipse FWD 11.96@122
new 93 SC300 owner

Angel

I am a firm believer that the 3mm headgasket puts you far below 8.5:1 compression maybe even a shade below 8:1 compression, however there is no proof of this, only theoretical calculations, etc. from motorheaddown and other members. I believe that the 1.6mm-2.0mm headgaskets get you closer to 8.5:1 compression ... and ... on that note ... if you need a 1.6mm headgasket, I have one for sale (HKS) brand new of course. PM me if interested.

SC300T

Most of the Supra guys with lowered compression are trying to get 15 -23 degrees of timing under boost. NA-T with stock compression is gonna run best with timing closer to 15, IMHO. I'm pulling 5 degrees at 10 psi for a total timing guess of 17-18 degrees. Pulling 1/2 degree per pound of boost from stock timing seems best for me. Perhaps someone like Angel can chime in on his timing settings on the AEM for reduced compression.

bigwillyc

SC300T: I see that you have a 60-1. What are your impressions of it and what head gasket did you use? When do you actually start seeing boost and when do you acheive full boost? Also what aer you using to pull the timing? I haven't turboed a non-turbo car before.. I have worked with turbo cars from the factory and went hog wild from there on.

Now that I think about it, you have to pull the head no matter what to lower the compressoin. Now what if I just get some 8.5:1 pistons and throw them on the rods and get a metal or copper headgasket that has similar to stock thickness? Does anybody know off hand if there are any stretch bolts in the motor or not??

Angel

Don't replace your pistons, just replace the gasket. The factory pistons will take 600hp with pride, there is no need to replace them. The factory headgasket is paper thick, you don't want to put another one in there that is that size. Just get a thicker headgasket to lower your compression and you will be fine.

SC300T

The stock bolts are not torque to yield according to the repair manual. If within certain specs, the manual says they can be reused. That said, the ARP stuff would be a wise move. As far as timing retard, I'm just using the MSD 6BTM. My 60-1 setup uses stock compression. Starts crossing into positive boost around 1700rpm, with 10psi by 2800rpm. Lag? what lag. Only thing I'd change on the 60-1 at stock compression is a switch to a .81 exhaust housing for more top end power at low boost, mine is a .58. If you lower compression, a .58 may be the ticket to reduce lag, but lag is not an issue on stock compression.