Had Brake Failure in the SC3
12-31-16, 10:30 PM
#16
Car is finally back from the shop. They charged me about $400 to install a used actuator, bleed the system, and swap in a brake booster I had as a spare. I bought a reman. master cylinder to swap it out even though the mechanic did not say it was needed. The reman master cylinder was not a reman but a made in China part so no way I'm trusting my life to it. That part will be going back. The car brakes normally now and the pedal is a bit more firm. I still do not feel safe driving it so I'll spend the $380 to buy a new OEM master cylinder and replace it.
Now when I start the car, go into drive, and accelerate to about 12-15 mph the actuator pump comes on for 1-2 seconds and you can hear it inside the car. This was never the case with my old one in the entire 9 years I have had the car. The old one made a loud buzzing noise when I suspect it was staring to go bad. When all was well it was always completely silent. Is this normal? I am specifically asking the owners of 98+ cars that have ABS actuators made by Bosch. I think the earlier cars used Sumitomo designed ABS systems so they would not operate the same way. The shop did not have the car throw any ABS codes before and after the swap was made.
I really hate this because I loved driving this car but now it's like this monkey on my back to worry about if it will stop or not each time I have to brake. If I had not spent as much as I did in caring for it I would have just sold it (telling the buyer everything) and gone to a 98+ SC400.
Now when I start the car, go into drive, and accelerate to about 12-15 mph the actuator pump comes on for 1-2 seconds and you can hear it inside the car. This was never the case with my old one in the entire 9 years I have had the car. The old one made a loud buzzing noise when I suspect it was staring to go bad. When all was well it was always completely silent. Is this normal? I am specifically asking the owners of 98+ cars that have ABS actuators made by Bosch. I think the earlier cars used Sumitomo designed ABS systems so they would not operate the same way. The shop did not have the car throw any ABS codes before and after the swap was made.
I really hate this because I loved driving this car but now it's like this monkey on my back to worry about if it will stop or not each time I have to brake. If I had not spent as much as I did in caring for it I would have just sold it (telling the buyer everything) and gone to a 98+ SC400.
01-03-17, 05:50 AM
#17
Driver School Candidate
Car is finally back from the shop. They charged me about $400 to install a used actuator, bleed the system, and swap in a brake booster I had as a spare. I bought a reman. master cylinder to swap it out even though the mechanic did not say it was needed. The reman master cylinder was not a reman but a made in China part so no way I'm trusting my life to it. That part will be going back. The car brakes normally now and the pedal is a bit more firm. I still do not feel safe driving it so I'll spend the $380 to buy a new OEM master cylinder and replace it.
Now when I start the car, go into drive, and accelerate to about 12-15 mph the actuator pump comes on for 1-2 seconds and you can hear it inside the car. This was never the case with my old one in the entire 9 years I have had the car. The old one made a loud buzzing noise when I suspect it was staring to go bad. When all was well it was always completely silent. Is this normal? I am specifically asking the owners of 98+ cars that have ABS actuators made by Bosch. I think the earlier cars used Sumitomo designed ABS systems so they would not operate the same way. The shop did not have the car throw any ABS codes before and after the swap was made.
I really hate this because I loved driving this car but now it's like this monkey on my back to worry about if it will stop or not each time I have to brake. If I had not spent as much as I did in caring for it I would have just sold it (telling the buyer everything) and gone to a 98+ SC400.
Now when I start the car, go into drive, and accelerate to about 12-15 mph the actuator pump comes on for 1-2 seconds and you can hear it inside the car. This was never the case with my old one in the entire 9 years I have had the car. The old one made a loud buzzing noise when I suspect it was staring to go bad. When all was well it was always completely silent. Is this normal? I am specifically asking the owners of 98+ cars that have ABS actuators made by Bosch. I think the earlier cars used Sumitomo designed ABS systems so they would not operate the same way. The shop did not have the car throw any ABS codes before and after the swap was made.
I really hate this because I loved driving this car but now it's like this monkey on my back to worry about if it will stop or not each time I have to brake. If I had not spent as much as I did in caring for it I would have just sold it (telling the buyer everything) and gone to a 98+ SC400.
I am not sure if its the same module or not, but you should be able to google a list of all the cars that are affected by the defective Bosch ABS ECUs. These are also known for ABS Ice mode. Famous for freaking out and limiting your maximum braking. A local at autocross ended up wrecking his car because of it.
01-06-17, 01:08 PM
#18
The Bosch systems are notorious for going bad. In most cases its actually the control unit and it manifests as an ABS sensor error. When the diagnostics on the sensor are ran, it shows up as good. You can read about it a lot on the BMW forums. Here is a link I have been using for my 540.
I am not sure if its the same module or not, but you should be able to google a list of all the cars that are affected by the defective Bosch ABS ECUs. These are also known for ABS Ice mode. Famous for freaking out and limiting your maximum braking. A local at autocross ended up wrecking his car because of it.
I am not sure if its the same module or not, but you should be able to google a list of all the cars that are affected by the defective Bosch ABS ECUs. These are also known for ABS Ice mode. Famous for freaking out and limiting your maximum braking. A local at autocross ended up wrecking his car because of it.
I'm waiting on the OEM new master cylinder now. This weekend I open up the nose of the car and send the bumper for paint. The mounts for the right high beam lamp have probably broken but I have a spare so no worries. I'm really hoping I do not find internal problems behind the bumper cover.
01-09-17, 11:04 AM
#19
Driver School Candidate
The link is not working but what an incredibly stupid design. Any ABS problem should default the brakes to conventional by cutting all power to the ABS system and storing a code. This is a 1990s car when there was reasonably powerful computing power in automobiles.
I'm waiting on the OEM new master cylinder now. This weekend I open up the nose of the car and send the bumper for paint. The mounts for the right high beam lamp have probably broken but I have a spare so no worries. I'm really hoping I do not find internal problems behind the bumper cover.
I'm waiting on the OEM new master cylinder now. This weekend I open up the nose of the car and send the bumper for paint. The mounts for the right high beam lamp have probably broken but I have a spare so no worries. I'm really hoping I do not find internal problems behind the bumper cover.
Sorry, it seems clublexus doesn't like the link. it adds quotes around it and some other ****. if you look at the link and remove the clublexus section at the beginning, it should work just fine. Please let us know how it goes for you, if it really does turn out to be the ABS controller, it would be relevant to us also.
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