SC 400 Starter Motor Removal
#17
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"It" is the motor itself, separate from the mount. One internal piece (red arrow) is stuck, and the cover (blue arrow) has slid off and will not go back on.
#18
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Thank you for that; those drawings are quite helpful. Just to be clear, are you saying that I should remove the dust cover and brush holder?
Sorry for my ignorance, everyone; I have limited mechanical experience. Cleaning the throttle body was the most I've ever had to do before this.
Sorry for my ignorance, everyone; I have limited mechanical experience. Cleaning the throttle body was the most I've ever had to do before this.
#19
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have you ever seen brushes in any motor??? you should have some knowledge or you should not be doing it your self .I feel like I have to show you a photo of everything...
#20
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Thank you for that; those drawings are quite helpful. Just to be clear, are you saying that I should remove the dust cover and brush holder?
Sorry for my ignorance, everyone; I have limited mechanical experience. Cleaning the throttle body was the most I've ever had to do before this.
Sorry for my ignorance, everyone; I have limited mechanical experience. Cleaning the throttle body was the most I've ever had to do before this.
#21
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explaning brushes: the brushes run on the back of the armature, and are spring loaded and when you poll back far enough, the armature slides from beneath the brushes and they will not let the armature back in..
have you ever seen brushes in any motor??? you should have some knowledge or you should not be doing it your self .I feel like I have to show you a photo of everything...
have you ever seen brushes in any motor??? you should have some knowledge or you should not be doing it your self .I feel like I have to show you a photo of everything...
#23
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Alright, I finally got back to the car (I was away today). The problem is that the rear portion of the motor cover (red arrow) will not slide back on. If I understand those diagrams correctly, the spring mechanism is inside the other part.
#24
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IMHO you are still on the wrong track. Try removing the part of the startedrnear the right side of the red arrow tip form the engine block. You can see the bolt peeking from the transmission side.
Once you have the motor detached you can decide to take the apart further or reassemble it. Counter to my first advice, since you have the motor apart, you may like to look for damage. If you have been tugging, the brushes may be damaged and the commutator may need cleaning.
Salim
Once you have the motor detached you can decide to take the apart further or reassemble it. Counter to my first advice, since you have the motor apart, you may like to look for damage. If you have been tugging, the brushes may be damaged and the commutator may need cleaning.
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; 02-16-17 at 05:26 PM.
#25
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IMHO you are still on the wrong track. Try removing the part of the startedrnear the right side of the red arrow tip form the engine block. You can see the bolt peeking from the transmission side.
Once you have the motor detached you can decide to take the apart further or reassemble it. Counter to my first advice, since you have the motor apart, you may like to look for damage. If you have been tugging, the brushes may be damaged and the commutator may need cleaning.
Salim
Once you have the motor detached you can decide to take the apart further or reassemble it. Counter to my first advice, since you have the motor apart, you may like to look for damage. If you have been tugging, the brushes may be damaged and the commutator may need cleaning.
Salim
I still cannot get the darn thing off. I need a bit more room; that pipe (coolant, I believe) that runs through the center of the V is in the way.
#26
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I just got it out. Finally! It took quite a bit of wiggling, but it's finally off.
With the starter motor out and disassembled, what about the brushes? They look fine to me, but then again, I'm not really sure what I'm looking for. How worn is too worn?
With the starter motor out and disassembled, what about the brushes? They look fine to me, but then again, I'm not really sure what I'm looking for. How worn is too worn?
Last edited by supra9398; 02-17-17 at 02:10 PM.
#27
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Do a thorough visual and look for broken off chunks. There is a service limit (which I dont know).
Salim
Salim
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I replaced one of the contacts (passenger side) without issue. However, I cannot remove the other one. What tool have people used to remove the bolt on the driver's side contact? I can't get a wrench on it from the side because of the plastic thing that envelops it, I can't go from the top (as I did on the other side) due to the wire plug thing (not sure what it's called), and I can't get a socket on it because there is not enough room.
#30
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So i successfully removed the starter on my 92. it wasn't fun or easy but it got done. On the passenger side I used a 1/2" drive ratchet and 12 point medium length socket. On the drivers side I used a swivel headed 14mm gear wrench. For the gear wrench I had to grind the head to a smaller diameter in order to get it on.
Once out I found the contacts to be about half consumed so i wasn't in imminent danger but I nbowknow I'll be in good shape for a long while. Another poster suggested putting a slot in the mounting bolts to get a screwdriver in there. this is genius as it made reinstallation very quick.
I didn't remove the coolant crossover and didn't was also able to work around the EGR pipe.
even after all the grief of pulling it out, i would not have pulled it apart in place.
I am going to reverse the mounting bolts on my spare engine so they screw into the bell housing rather than the starter. I'm not sure if this mod can be done in place though. I'll be doing this on an engine stand.
I'd say the biggest benefit of the job is that the intake upper/lower, and throttle body needed a serious cleaning and they are now sparkly clean. If i had more time I would have port matched everything.
Once out I found the contacts to be about half consumed so i wasn't in imminent danger but I nbowknow I'll be in good shape for a long while. Another poster suggested putting a slot in the mounting bolts to get a screwdriver in there. this is genius as it made reinstallation very quick.
I didn't remove the coolant crossover and didn't was also able to work around the EGR pipe.
even after all the grief of pulling it out, i would not have pulled it apart in place.
I am going to reverse the mounting bolts on my spare engine so they screw into the bell housing rather than the starter. I'm not sure if this mod can be done in place though. I'll be doing this on an engine stand.
I'd say the biggest benefit of the job is that the intake upper/lower, and throttle body needed a serious cleaning and they are now sparkly clean. If i had more time I would have port matched everything.