hidavi

the crank pulley on my old USDM 2jzGE in my 92 sc300 literally went flying one day. Before that it was already idling really rough and had lost a lot of power. I only used the car to drift and it had 145k miles on it. I decided to move on and get a replacement 60k miles 2ZJGE from Japan with a 3 month warranty.

I put it in using the original USDM wiring harness and USDM alternator, but it won't start. The fuel pump wouldn't prime and the fuel pump relay was heating up, so I did the 12v mod to bypass the fuel pump ECU. Now it runs when I turn the key and no heat on the relay, but the pump sounds gurgly and squealy so I'm wondering if the pump is bad.

Now, the tank may have been empty due to all the fuel leaking out during the swap (learned my lesson ) so I added 2.5 gallons of fuel, but the car won't start. Is it possible that I need a lot more fuel to start the car?

I should mention that the engine cranks, and kind of makes sputtering sounds like it might start, but doesn't. Because of the awful sounding pump, I don't believe enough fuel is getting to the engine, but I'm not sure. I ordered a new fuel pump and filter just in case.

I've been reading that the ECU may have stopped working, but I don't really know how I would test the ECU.

Advice please?

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

Two things you can do:
1. Open the ECU and check all your capacitors... You may be able to see the damage and replace the caps... Other issues are not easily discernable, which would require that you send it in for repair.
2. Purchase another ECU on eBay or some other place and try it out.

I went with option 2, and my car started working again flawlessly.

hidavi

I tested and the ECU seems fine.

I took the y-pipe off the intake manifold and found that the spark plug cables are in the right order on the distributor cap...

HOWEVER! There appears to be some kind of debris/ceramic and a bit of gunk where the sparkplugs go :/

Two of my friends said to just blow the holes clean with an air compressor and new spark plugs should do the trick. Does that sound right?

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

Interested to know how you tested your ECU.
No way for us to tell if the suggestion sounds right without pics.

When you turn the key to the ON position, do you get a check engine light?
Do you hear the injectors? You need both the injectors and the fuel pump to prime.

Suggestion: Before you spend any $$
- Clean it out, pull each plug and inspect them.
- If they are fine, reinstall them and try to crank it up.

If if there is no change, try some starter fluid in the intake.
Check your rotor and cap also.

hidavi

I cleaned all the water out of the spark plugs (yep there was water in there too, not just debris!)

The spark plugs were all rusty, so I put new ones in, as well as new ignition cables.

The car still wouldn't start, although at this point it ALMOST starts! Lots of sputtering but no go.

Then I replaced my fuel pump and the engine started :/

So I guess that my fuel pump happened to go out at the same time as my old engine? And my replacement engine must have been left out in the rain before I got it

Should I undo my 12v mod now that I have a working fuel pump or leave it?

hidavi

nvm, it won't start today. now the spark plugs get wet with gas, but they're already covered in soot and I'm getting white smoke now.

so I'm guessing the fuel mixture is bad? I'm beginning to think I got a bum engine...

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

Is it gas or oil that the spark plugs are covered in? It sound like the head needs to be reworked.

Also, have you checked the timing?

hidavi

Its gas. The smell of gas is very strong when you sniff the plugs and they don't feel oily.

I'm not pro-enough to check the timing, but I'll see if I can.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

sounds like that engine needs a quick going through if it ad water and rusty etc... its possible one of the injectors is bad too. I would swap all the upper end stuff off your old one, injectors, rail, upper intake, y-pipe and throttle body from the USDM one to the JDM engine. also make sure there are no intake leaks. I would also pop the valve covers and have a quick look to make sure its not all gunked up, if it is clean it up as best as you can otherwise it wont get oiled right.
don't run permanently with the 12v mod if you don't need it especially if you are drifting, it removes all the safety cut off features, I would put that back to stock.

hidavi

OK so my friends and I adjusted the timing on the distributor and the TPS position and now we get flames out of the exhaust manifold!

But the car won't stay on. Compression test showed 180,180,180,180,180,170 so the block and heads are good. We swapped EVERYTHING except for the ECU, MAF and engine harness. I don't have a spare ECU and MAF

I'm hoping that if I get a new MAF that it will read the air right and stay on. Cuz its behaving like my Land Cruiser when I take the MAF off of it (turns on but dies instantly).