Changing cap and rotor on SC300 how-to
11-30-05, 04:02 PM
#16
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by sc.Fred
I'm reviving this thread again because it's a great write up! 
anyway, i found out that our SC uses 5mm for stock plug wires which i found weird because i used to work on honda's that were like 7-8mm is it because of how the engine is made?
anyway, i found out that our SC uses 5mm for stock plug wires which i found weird because i used to work on honda's that were like 7-8mm is it because of how the engine is made?
why thank you, I'm glad its been useful for everyone
11-30-05, 04:13 PM
#18
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by AutoCoutureSC
a lil OT, but i saw you on TV on veterans day i think. You were in Santa Monica Beach sitting down talking with reporters.
That's cool, glad to see the message it getting out.
06-28-06, 12:47 PM
#19
Lexus Test Driver
Dooo Eeeeeeeet!!!
Judging by the lack of more responses to this thread given its age, I'm guessing the lot of you with SC's in the 100k+ mileage have NOT DONE THIS.
Do it.
It's worth it. My car just passed 108k and I changed the cap and rotor for the first time ever about an hour ago. WHAT A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE just as Cloud9 stated. Idle is much smoother and steadier, acceleration has a nice boost and is smoother as well (according my butt dyno), and overall throttle response seems to be a bit quicker too. Maybe I was just imagining that, but it sure seemed like it.
GREAT write-up here TGRich, if you are still around man. For a novice like me, this took all of 40 minutes to do properly. In actuality it took a little bit more because of my experience/teachings below.
1) When removing the small screws that hold the rotor in place, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT DROP THEM. They are magnetized, so use a magnetized screwdriver or just be very careful. I dropped one of mine and it landed all the way in the brush guard underneath so I had to jack up the car, remove the brushguard and grab the screw. Big waste of time, so don't drop them.
2) To get to the screws on the rotor which have a bit of difficult angle (as does the 4 o'clock screw on the cap) try removing your intake pipe from the throttle body via those 2 philips silver ring connectors. Then you can push the intake pipe out of the way a little bit to get a better angle on the screws.
3) When reattaching the connectors back into the cap, make sure you see or hear the tab "click" back into place. This will ensure that your plugs do not accidentally become loose while driving or whatever.
Once again, if you have not done it, DO IT. It takes no more than an hour even for the most novice. And all you really need is a phillips head screwdriver. I paid $19.45 for both cap and rotor at my local Toyota dealer. Lexus wanted an outrageous $36.71. This ought to be a mod in itself, but oh wait, no, its ROUTINE MAINTENANCE.
Note: I skipped the dielectric re-greasing because I didn't have any on hand, Not difficult to go back and do later on tho
Do it.
It's worth it. My car just passed 108k and I changed the cap and rotor for the first time ever about an hour ago. WHAT A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE just as Cloud9 stated. Idle is much smoother and steadier, acceleration has a nice boost and is smoother as well (according my butt dyno), and overall throttle response seems to be a bit quicker too. Maybe I was just imagining that, but it sure seemed like it.
GREAT write-up here TGRich, if you are still around man. For a novice like me, this took all of 40 minutes to do properly. In actuality it took a little bit more because of my experience/teachings below.
1) When removing the small screws that hold the rotor in place, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT DROP THEM. They are magnetized, so use a magnetized screwdriver or just be very careful. I dropped one of mine and it landed all the way in the brush guard underneath so I had to jack up the car, remove the brushguard and grab the screw. Big waste of time, so don't drop them.
2) To get to the screws on the rotor which have a bit of difficult angle (as does the 4 o'clock screw on the cap) try removing your intake pipe from the throttle body via those 2 philips silver ring connectors. Then you can push the intake pipe out of the way a little bit to get a better angle on the screws.
3) When reattaching the connectors back into the cap, make sure you see or hear the tab "click" back into place. This will ensure that your plugs do not accidentally become loose while driving or whatever.
Once again, if you have not done it, DO IT. It takes no more than an hour even for the most novice. And all you really need is a phillips head screwdriver. I paid $19.45 for both cap and rotor at my local Toyota dealer. Lexus wanted an outrageous $36.71. This ought to be a mod in itself, but oh wait, no, its ROUTINE MAINTENANCE.
Note: I skipped the dielectric re-greasing because I didn't have any on hand, Not difficult to go back and do later on tho
Last edited by np20412; 06-28-06 at 12:51 PM.
06-28-06, 04:25 PM
#20
Lexus Test Driver
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i removed the head and the engine block is going to the machine shop..so i just put a new o'ring on the distributor and will use a new Rotor since the distributor cap only has ~7,000 miles on it.
06-28-06, 10:19 PM
#21
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by NYLexSC
Judging by the lack of more responses to this thread given its age, I'm guessing the lot of you with SC's in the 100k+ mileage have NOT DONE THIS.
Do it.
It's worth it. My car just passed 108k and I changed the cap and rotor for the first time ever about an hour ago. WHAT A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE just as Cloud9 stated. Idle is much smoother and steadier, acceleration has a nice boost and is smoother as well (according my butt dyno), and overall throttle response seems to be a bit quicker too. Maybe I was just imagining that, but it sure seemed like it.
GREAT write-up here TGRich, if you are still around man. For a novice like me, this took all of 40 minutes to do properly. In actuality it took a little bit more because of my experience/teachings below.
1) When removing the small screws that hold the rotor in place, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT DROP THEM. They are magnetized, so use a magnetized screwdriver or just be very careful. I dropped one of mine and it landed all the way in the brush guard underneath so I had to jack up the car, remove the brushguard and grab the screw. Big waste of time, so don't drop them.
2) To get to the screws on the rotor which have a bit of difficult angle (as does the 4 o'clock screw on the cap) try removing your intake pipe from the throttle body via those 2 philips silver ring connectors. Then you can push the intake pipe out of the way a little bit to get a better angle on the screws.
3) When reattaching the connectors back into the cap, make sure you see or hear the tab "click" back into place. This will ensure that your plugs do not accidentally become loose while driving or whatever.
Once again, if you have not done it, DO IT. It takes no more than an hour even for the most novice. And all you really need is a phillips head screwdriver. I paid $19.45 for both cap and rotor at my local Toyota dealer. Lexus wanted an outrageous $36.71. This ought to be a mod in itself, but oh wait, no, its ROUTINE MAINTENANCE.
Note: I skipped the dielectric re-greasing because I didn't have any on hand, Not difficult to go back and do later on tho
Do it.
It's worth it. My car just passed 108k and I changed the cap and rotor for the first time ever about an hour ago. WHAT A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE just as Cloud9 stated. Idle is much smoother and steadier, acceleration has a nice boost and is smoother as well (according my butt dyno), and overall throttle response seems to be a bit quicker too. Maybe I was just imagining that, but it sure seemed like it.
GREAT write-up here TGRich, if you are still around man. For a novice like me, this took all of 40 minutes to do properly. In actuality it took a little bit more because of my experience/teachings below.
1) When removing the small screws that hold the rotor in place, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT DROP THEM. They are magnetized, so use a magnetized screwdriver or just be very careful. I dropped one of mine and it landed all the way in the brush guard underneath so I had to jack up the car, remove the brushguard and grab the screw. Big waste of time, so don't drop them.
2) To get to the screws on the rotor which have a bit of difficult angle (as does the 4 o'clock screw on the cap) try removing your intake pipe from the throttle body via those 2 philips silver ring connectors. Then you can push the intake pipe out of the way a little bit to get a better angle on the screws.
3) When reattaching the connectors back into the cap, make sure you see or hear the tab "click" back into place. This will ensure that your plugs do not accidentally become loose while driving or whatever.
Once again, if you have not done it, DO IT. It takes no more than an hour even for the most novice. And all you really need is a phillips head screwdriver. I paid $19.45 for both cap and rotor at my local Toyota dealer. Lexus wanted an outrageous $36.71. This ought to be a mod in itself, but oh wait, no, its ROUTINE MAINTENANCE.
Note: I skipped the dielectric re-greasing because I didn't have any on hand, Not difficult to go back and do later on tho
Why thank you. I'm just glad this is helping people as much as it is
Tim
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