92 SC300 EGR Valve
11-20-17, 02:33 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
92 SC300 EGR Valve
I have been looking for an EGR Valve for my 92 SC300 for a couple months now, people keep sending me the wrong part and/or saying it is discontinued. Does anyone know a good source for this part? It is part number 25620-46010. Thank you
11-20-17, 07:35 PM
#2
The 1992 version of the SC300 2JZ-GE EGR valve may be discontinued. I'm not sure but if you have heard this from a Toyota or Lexus dealer then that would confirm it.
The 25620-46010 version has an un-machined and unused area where the EGR temp sensor would be since Federal Emission 1992 SC300's (I believe) never had the EGR temp sensor from the factory.
You should be able to use 25620-46060 or 25620-46061. It is the exact same design only including a screw-in bung for the EGR temperature sensor. If you use one of these versions and your car came with no EGR temp sensor then you will need to source a screw in plug with the correct thread and pitch (and a little metal gasket) to cover up that hole.
There is also Standard Motor Products EGV868 and Airtex-Wells 4F1415 which is the same thing but which would also require the EGR temp sensor hold to be plugged if it will be unused.
The EGR valve design for 2JZ-GE's in every case is the same functionally and dimensionally. It is just that some early versions didn't have a threaded hole for an EGR temp sensor.
These do last and work for a very long time, though. Has the old EGR valve been fully cleaned? Has it been vacuum tested and been proven to have failed? They can become clogged up and extensive cleaning with carb and choke cleaner and some fine scraping tools may be required to clear them out again. The 90-degree vacuum neck made of a little steel pipe can be removed after taking off the little screw holding it in place and by using some pliers wrapped in cloth to gently pull it out of the EGR assembly. One of my EGR valves was fully clogged with carbon in that little pipe and I had to clean every bit of that out before it would flow correctly again.
Also, only clean an EGR valve with carb and choke cleaner and whatever scrubbing tools get into the hard to reach areas. Don't use any exotic cleaning chemical or "vinegar trick" to clean them up since these are made of cast steel and that is NOT a good chemical reaction. Cleaning rust for instance can involve a wire brush if necessary but leave it at that. The carbon deposits can be scraped or scrubbed with fine metal tools along with liberal use of carb and choke cleaner. And wear a ventilated mask and some goggles when doing this.
....
Now this is also important to take note of for anyone who has a 1992-1997 SC300 that requires working EGR for emissions testing:
Another cause of EGR failure (especially with SC300's and GS300's with EGR temp sensors on the EGR valves to cause a CEL Code 71 from the ECU) is that the "Y" shaped intake manifold plenum's EGR tract can become clogged up with carbon deposits also. That can be cleaned partly from one end with easy enough access but it is the internal cross-over EGR gas tube that really gets clogged up in some cases. Toyota/Lexus has no TSRM cleaning procedure for this-- they meant for that entire section of the intake to be replaced if it were fully clogged enough to block EGR gas flow. Annoying of Toyota.
However there is a way to still clean that hard to reach area of the "Y" intake plenum because there is a removable steel freeze plug... that Toyota does not sell or even list in their parts database. The solution is to find an aftermarket steel plug in the right sizing to replace the old one with. You will have to remove the old freeze plug on that area of the "Y" intake plenum, then clean out that last hard to reach EGR crossover tube that is inside it and finally replace that freeze plug with either the same one (if it isn't deformed) or one that meets the same measurements as determined by a caliper gauge.
I don't know if that is your issue but it is possible in addition to a clogged EGR valve because it happened to me. I made some notes on my findings while attempting to clean the "Y" intake section's EGR path including my measurement notes for a replacement steel freeze plug. Dorman seemed to have at least one that fit the bill.
Here are the pertinent individual posts concerning the cleaning of the EGR tract on the "Y" intake plenum on a 2JZ-GE. Please note that while this thread covered diagnosis of a 1993 SC300 with California Emissions the EGR system's design and function is the same for Federal Emission (49 State) and California Emission (50 State) 1992-1997 SC300's with the exception of the EGR temp sensor not being present on some very early SC300's.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post9414336
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post9422069
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post9442938
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post9443765
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post9447625
I never fully completed cleaning out my old "Y" plenum and replacing the freeze plug. I would up finding a brand new plenum from Toyota old stock at the time. However the notes I made are as far as I got. I still have the old plenums to test on just to prove the fix but I haven't gotten around to it. The notes and method I detailed in there are the way to do it if necessary.
Whatever freeze plug is used CANNOT be brass. Brass on aluminum is not a good combination and can cause corrosion. EGR parts are usually cast in steel and the EGR valve and the plenum freeze plug are made of exactly that. The intake manifold parts are made of aluminum, so aluminum + steel = OK.
You also need to make sure that whatever steel freeze plug you find on the aftermarket has no pinhole in it. Not sure why such a thing is sold but I encountered at least one that was made this way in my trial and error search through the Dorman parts catalog for the measurements I took of the original Toyota plug.
...
Hopefully your issue is just a clogged EGR valve that needs to be cleaned. If it really needs to be replaced due to a failure of the diaphragm you can use one of the other part numbers I listed above. It is difficult to determine if the EGR flow in the "Y" intake plenum is free of any clogging without doing a manual emissions test on the car if your SC has no EGR temp sensor from the factory.
Good luck, OP!
The 25620-46010 version has an un-machined and unused area where the EGR temp sensor would be since Federal Emission 1992 SC300's (I believe) never had the EGR temp sensor from the factory.
You should be able to use 25620-46060 or 25620-46061. It is the exact same design only including a screw-in bung for the EGR temperature sensor. If you use one of these versions and your car came with no EGR temp sensor then you will need to source a screw in plug with the correct thread and pitch (and a little metal gasket) to cover up that hole.
There is also Standard Motor Products EGV868 and Airtex-Wells 4F1415 which is the same thing but which would also require the EGR temp sensor hold to be plugged if it will be unused.
The EGR valve design for 2JZ-GE's in every case is the same functionally and dimensionally. It is just that some early versions didn't have a threaded hole for an EGR temp sensor.
These do last and work for a very long time, though. Has the old EGR valve been fully cleaned? Has it been vacuum tested and been proven to have failed? They can become clogged up and extensive cleaning with carb and choke cleaner and some fine scraping tools may be required to clear them out again. The 90-degree vacuum neck made of a little steel pipe can be removed after taking off the little screw holding it in place and by using some pliers wrapped in cloth to gently pull it out of the EGR assembly. One of my EGR valves was fully clogged with carbon in that little pipe and I had to clean every bit of that out before it would flow correctly again.
Also, only clean an EGR valve with carb and choke cleaner and whatever scrubbing tools get into the hard to reach areas. Don't use any exotic cleaning chemical or "vinegar trick" to clean them up since these are made of cast steel and that is NOT a good chemical reaction. Cleaning rust for instance can involve a wire brush if necessary but leave it at that. The carbon deposits can be scraped or scrubbed with fine metal tools along with liberal use of carb and choke cleaner. And wear a ventilated mask and some goggles when doing this.
....
Now this is also important to take note of for anyone who has a 1992-1997 SC300 that requires working EGR for emissions testing:
Another cause of EGR failure (especially with SC300's and GS300's with EGR temp sensors on the EGR valves to cause a CEL Code 71 from the ECU) is that the "Y" shaped intake manifold plenum's EGR tract can become clogged up with carbon deposits also. That can be cleaned partly from one end with easy enough access but it is the internal cross-over EGR gas tube that really gets clogged up in some cases. Toyota/Lexus has no TSRM cleaning procedure for this-- they meant for that entire section of the intake to be replaced if it were fully clogged enough to block EGR gas flow. Annoying of Toyota.
However there is a way to still clean that hard to reach area of the "Y" intake plenum because there is a removable steel freeze plug... that Toyota does not sell or even list in their parts database. The solution is to find an aftermarket steel plug in the right sizing to replace the old one with. You will have to remove the old freeze plug on that area of the "Y" intake plenum, then clean out that last hard to reach EGR crossover tube that is inside it and finally replace that freeze plug with either the same one (if it isn't deformed) or one that meets the same measurements as determined by a caliper gauge.
I don't know if that is your issue but it is possible in addition to a clogged EGR valve because it happened to me. I made some notes on my findings while attempting to clean the "Y" intake section's EGR path including my measurement notes for a replacement steel freeze plug. Dorman seemed to have at least one that fit the bill.
Here are the pertinent individual posts concerning the cleaning of the EGR tract on the "Y" intake plenum on a 2JZ-GE. Please note that while this thread covered diagnosis of a 1993 SC300 with California Emissions the EGR system's design and function is the same for Federal Emission (49 State) and California Emission (50 State) 1992-1997 SC300's with the exception of the EGR temp sensor not being present on some very early SC300's.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post9414336
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post9422069
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post9442938
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post9443765
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post9447625
I never fully completed cleaning out my old "Y" plenum and replacing the freeze plug. I would up finding a brand new plenum from Toyota old stock at the time. However the notes I made are as far as I got. I still have the old plenums to test on just to prove the fix but I haven't gotten around to it. The notes and method I detailed in there are the way to do it if necessary.
Whatever freeze plug is used CANNOT be brass. Brass on aluminum is not a good combination and can cause corrosion. EGR parts are usually cast in steel and the EGR valve and the plenum freeze plug are made of exactly that. The intake manifold parts are made of aluminum, so aluminum + steel = OK.
You also need to make sure that whatever steel freeze plug you find on the aftermarket has no pinhole in it. Not sure why such a thing is sold but I encountered at least one that was made this way in my trial and error search through the Dorman parts catalog for the measurements I took of the original Toyota plug.
...
Hopefully your issue is just a clogged EGR valve that needs to be cleaned. If it really needs to be replaced due to a failure of the diaphragm you can use one of the other part numbers I listed above. It is difficult to determine if the EGR flow in the "Y" intake plenum is free of any clogging without doing a manual emissions test on the car if your SC has no EGR temp sensor from the factory.
Good luck, OP!
Last edited by KahnBB6; 11-20-17 at 07:50 PM.
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