Lex Luthor

Sounds good Scott, do you think the airflow meter will be an obstruction @ 450+ rwhp? Has to be to some degree...

SC300T

boredguy, those ***** on the front are sort of a graphic equalizer for the fuel curve. They are the simplest form of raw adjustment. Any *real* adjustment needs to be done through the USB cable via notebook computer. That's the only way into the 16x16 maps. Anyways, via the control ***** on the unit - if you don't have a computer to tune, you can adjust the little ***** via a small key type of tool. Through a series of key movements, you can adjust both the rpm point of adjustment and the amount of boost or cut at that particular rpm. Those five of so points are adjustable through a range of rpms. At any rate, those controls are pretty crude.

I got the unit today. Haven't had any chance to hook it up---down with some nasty sinus infection. This thing looks bigger in all the pictures. In reality its just a hair bigger than a paper back book. I originally thought it was the size of a car audio amp, and would be difficult to find an appropriate spot. I think it will fit easily under the passenger seat, or perhaps in the glove box, or even could be mounted under that trim panel beneath the glove box door.

Jon,
As far as the airflow restrictions are concerned.... This will accept multiple air flow meters. If you remember, Clint always used two MAFs on his setup. You could wire two of them fairly easy. Some have said that they like the way the car runs better with a MAF than with speed density a la VPC or AEM. It also allows you to upgrade the airflow meter to a larger one without issue. You just can't change the type, though. So if its karman vortex, it has to stay that way. I suppose you could wire two LS400 mafs, if you really wanted. I'm sure an extra SC300 maf would be very cheap. The Greddy guy also mentioned that you could change mfrs of the maf, as long as its karman vortex type. He gave me the codes for the setup. I think he said 583 or 584. Uses the same maf type as Mitsubishi. You set this code on the body of the unit in order to setup ignition type and maf type.

I wonder if I could just run two maf bodies, but only monitor one of them, then have the e-manage double the signal. That would give the appropriate flow without having to buy an extra sensor. Or perhaps that second maf body could just be a tube with the same cross section as a maf.

boredguy77

I meant these ***** the one that selects airflow meter type, ignition type etc. there isnt information anywhere that correlates numbers to their value.
****************************************************************************88
1Remove the E-manage circuit bored from the E-manage box,
2Take off the 4 Allen screws from the front panel with the Allen tool supplied.
3Remove two bottom Philip screws.

boredguy77

Using the supplied Greddy tool, Set the *****

boredguy77

those are the **** adjustments for the TT.

boredguy77

now that I read I *think* this answers my question, but we still don`t know the jumper settings.

boredguy77

here are the jumper locations, do you know the values to put in? I guess since you already talked to the Greddy guy, you probably know all of this, but hey, might as well get it out here, so that later when people ask we can direct them to this thread.

Lex Luthor

Scott, I believe my frequency-type airflow meter different than what's on your car, no? The dual-MAF idea is great, if Clint can dyno a solid # with that setup than so can we.

SC300T

Jon, isn't yours a hotwire MAF? I think Greddy has those covered too. Boredguy. I'll hopefully have those switch settings very soon. I'm installing the Emanage right now.

SC300T

Boredguy,
The tech at greddy said jumpers are to be left alone unless you're doing ignition timing, in which case, you *may* have to switch JP1 to position 2-3 and/or JP2 to 2-3. He said just play around with it. Said you wouldn't hurt anything. If the JP setting is wrong, the car won't start according to him.

boredguy77

just checked it has to be 583, the 4 is toyota hotwire

Dohc3l

What year SC's had the hotwire MAF?

SC300T

I got this thing installed, and it runs --- for about two minutes.

It stalls at idle every couple minutes.
I can't figure it out. I may have to send it back. I'm very frustrated. When you reconnect the airflow signal directly to the ECU, it idles and runs fine.

What is most puzzling is that it runs pretty smooth with the e-manage in the loop. It adjusts the a/f properly, you can adjust the maps easily, and the map trace feature makes it easy to pinpoint problem areas in your a/f ratio (provided you have a wideband)

It idles great for a few minutes, nice steady a/f at around 14:1 then blam.... Stalls suddenly as if the key were turned.

Greddy tech support has been useless so far.

I'm about to give up.

I'll try a few more things like reverting to an older firmware, and changing the ground leads, resetting the main ECU, cleaning the plugs, etc. I'm also gonna monitor the injector duty from the AVC-R to see if for some reason the ECU is shutting down the injectors. If its doing that, I have no idea how to proceed.

Another idea may be to swap the airflow meter with a Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 meter, as that meter is what I'm using as a rotary switch setting on the Emanage.

Anyone have any ideas?... I'm all ears.

boredguy77

try disconnesting the injector harness and using the unit at its most simple form. maybe that will narrow the problem down Im sure you double checked all of the wiring... right?

SC300T

I stripped it down to the most basic form. I even pulled the rpm lead. Was just hooked up with no correction, and just the air flow intercepted. Even in this simplest form it still would stall and glitch.

When reading the real time data from the Emanage, it shows glitches and spikes in the airflow input, it shows glitches and spikes in the rpm lead, too. I cross checked the rpm signal with the AVC-R boost controller that is attached to the same lead, and that device is mapping and reading the rpm just fine.

Again, I removed the emanage from the air flow signal and the car runs great without it.

I'm wondering if perhaps I have a defective box.