ZOOT3D240

I wired up nonvvti aristo tt ecu on my 93 gs300 2jzge nonvvti. Previously i had the car running daily with stock usdm ecu and harness. First time i wired up the aristo ecu it would start and run on like 3 cylinders but would idle fine. Then one day i broke the plug at the dizzy and i when i put a new one on i def wired the wires backwards. Turned car on and it idled for about 1 min then i shut it off. Never turned on since. Im afrad i fried the ecu. I ordered a new tt ecu. So here is.my question the usdm gs300 harness has n1 g1 g2 and G. Now if u look at the aristo harness pinout. N1 g1 g2 and there is anotjer stack -n1 -g1 -g2. Where does G go from dizzy to the aristo ecu. If u leave it connects to -n1

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

There were only three changes to the ECU side of the harness:

MAF wire moves from 66 -> 62 for MAP sensor input
Add two wires to 56 & 55 for additional coil signal wires
Add three jumper wires:
- 57 -> 52
- 56 -> 53
- 55 -> 54

All the distributor wires should remain where they were originally.

RE: running on 3 cylinders:

Check your connections at the ECU and at the Ignitor again. I had a similar issue that turned out to be loose connectors (the jumper wires mentioned above) at the ECU harness. I had used quick splice connectors that were not making appropriate contact. Removed the quick splice connectors and soldered the connections, no problems since.

Check your Wiring at the coil packs, verify that you have continuity at the positive side from the ignitor to each coil connector. Next verify that you have continuity for each ground/signal wire from the ignitor connector to the coil packs.

Check that you have the coil packs on the right spark plugs and that the slave wires are connected to the right plugs.

Check your wires and coils. Verify that the little spring in the coil boot is there. Verify that they are all seated correctly. If they are all seated correctly...

Check for spark: Use an old plug, connect it to each coil and ground it to the engine then try to start the engine. If you get spark, remove the plug from that bank and check it to make sure that it has not become fouled.

Let us know what you find.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

when doing the tt ecu mod you leave the distributor wires like they are on the stock 2jzge diagram.

the difference is that on the GTE the 2 cam sensors and 1 crank sensor each have both a signal wire and a sensor ground wire... so there are 3 ground wires that go to the ecu.
Now on the GE the dizzy has 2 cam sensors, 1 crank sensor, and just 1 combined ground wire for all 3 sensors, so there is just 1 ground wire going to the ecu.

The reason you do not have to do any rewiring when changing from a GE ecu to a GTE ecu is that the pins for those 3 ground wires on both ecus are all internally connected to a special ground in the ecu.

So basically you just need to return your distributor plug to normal. there is no wiring changes for cam and crank sensors at the ecu on the tt ecu mod.
if you had the signal and ground wires mixed up, there is a chance you could have damaged the cam or crank function of the ecu, but most likely it could survive that since the voltages are so low level so your problem might be elsewhere. generally a bad dizzy won't even start the engine, so if you had it running somewhat it might be ok now and having another issue.

with the dizzy installed in the head and the connector plugged into the distributor, looking at the wires coming out the connector from top to bottom they are:
Blue, red, yellow then black.

you mentioned using the resistor pack with the 440's. those are notorious for wiring issues which is why I never use them, especially if you are using a 3 channel one as it is not wired the same way as the 7mgte ones are. the 7mgte uses batch fire and the 2jzge ecu uses sequential injection, so you need to make sure you have it wired right (the correct injectors paired together) with the 3 channel one resistor.
thats generally why the 2jzgte uses a 6 channel resistor pack its easier to wire up.

also you said it sounded like it was running on 3 cylinders, if everything else is wired right check the map sensor wiring and make sure the vacuum source is right.
dont use any spots on the throttle body they are ported vacuum and wont work.
in my experience when these motors start missing and dropping cylnders.. its usually the map sensor is reading full voltage (default voltage which indicates a bad map or wiring) which makes the car dump fuel and pull timing and it usually runs on just a few cylinders cause it thinks you are WOT, not trying to idle. you can check voltages at the map sensor of the signal wire, it should be in a certain range when its running like 1-2 something volts.. if its reading 4.5-5v its either a bad map sensor, bad wiring and/or a bad ecu. bad map sensors happen all the time, and the ecu can be fried if you touch the map sensor signal wire to the ground wire with the power on, then you need another ecu.... this doesn't happen as much unless you forget to take the key out when doing your wiring, but the bad map sensor happens all the time.

That is why I recommended pulling the codes, you should have some stored and a code 3x something I forget means a bad map sensor or wiring.

ZOOT3D240

checked vvti coils 1 wire is constant and the other is pulsating like it should. went back to stock 330 ge injectors/wiring to eliminate the 440s being wired wrong. all 6 injectors are pulsating and the other wire is constant power like it should. ill upgrade to 440s the day this thing idles right. Cleaned the fouled spark plugs. starts right up and idles just sounds like a wrx. stumbles on its face when i give it throttle.let go and it idles again. walboro 255 is def sending fuel to the rail. i picked up a spare tt ecu and tt map. still runs the same. im gonna try a spare ignitor right now. the only thing i can think of i mayby im putting dizzy in a missing a tooth. but ive installed dizzy a few times with no problems on the ge ecu last year so im alittle hesitant that im f'ing that up.<br /><br />safety nutruel is wired up just like i had it on the ge ecu. keep in mind i had the ge ecu and harness on the 2j inside my 240sx daily driving for 2 years and i hit like 20 drift event. never skipped a beat.

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

ZOOT3D240

Check your connections at the ECU. Are all of your wires soldered? Are the connections solid?

im gonna try to tee it in between fpr tomorro i had it on the coming off the plenum right next to the fpr. yea there all soldered and the connections look solid i inspected all the wires at plug they look fine

mrmj2u

iTrader: (2)

I'm pretty sure that the spot you have your MAP sensor in is the same place that I had mine at when it was running like crap.
Once you make the change, it should run correctly.

Attached is a pic of where I had it before, compared to the correct spot, which is outlined in red.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

use a timing light to check the timing, use a good spot for the map sensor as mentioned. you need 440cc injectors it will never run correctly with 330cc injectors.
I would recommend picking up some aftermarket 440cc that are high impedance instead of using the resistor pack setup.
also if you are using mk3 440cc, those should be cleaned and even then they aren't great injectors due to being low impedance, I would go with newer units or rebuilt 440cc injectors.