Nitrous power handling
#17
Well, I'm saying that if you're not an idiot and use nitrous with a little bit of brains, in my opinion, yes.
As long as you have the fuel to support it, and you don't go too large with the shot, I believe a small dry shot would be safer than a wet kit.
Others may beg to differ.
As long as you have the fuel to support it, and you don't go too large with the shot, I believe a small dry shot would be safer than a wet kit.
Others may beg to differ.
#19
Originally posted by Hi-psi
Others may beg to differ.
Others may beg to differ.
This doesnt help much
#20
There is a diference between safer and easier.
WET IS THE SAFEST!!! With direct port being the absolute safest.
Dry is the easiest.
If anyone tells you otherwise, they obviously haven't worked w/ NOS in the past, or just are skeptical of their own installation skills. A wet system allows the user to mix a predetermined amount of fuel and NOS, usually with a seperate or higher flow fuel pump for a precision injection independent of the factory setup. Meaning if the motor goes, it is due to weakness or user error, but not directly due to the nos. A dry setup relies on the factory injectors, factory fuel pump, factory fuel regulator, factory fuel rail, ecu, etc. If just one thing is slightly off, like a hickup from an injector, or a drop in fuel pressure....your soooooo screwed! God forbid you hit a rev limmiter and shut down injectors!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Its bad enough to loose a spark, but if the fuel is cut off too, you can kiss your hood and intake goodbye.
Leave the dry setups to the 50 shot ricers with their Honda's. A direct port wet setup will never need adjusting once its dialed in, you will never have a hot cylinder (or cold for that matter). Both engine banks will see equal and uniform power increases, with less stress on the head gasket.
I say spend a little more (its not much if you're pricing it) and get a direct port wet setup. It will be a very reliable alternative to the risky (easy) dry setup. If you can't do a correct install, take it to someone who can. I've never seen a properly installed proportional NOS system destroy an engine, but I have seen people blow their motors sky high due to faulty installations...and most of them were dry units or single fogger setups or just idiots who shoot 200 hp shots into a small stock engine.
WET IS THE SAFEST!!! With direct port being the absolute safest.
Dry is the easiest.
If anyone tells you otherwise, they obviously haven't worked w/ NOS in the past, or just are skeptical of their own installation skills. A wet system allows the user to mix a predetermined amount of fuel and NOS, usually with a seperate or higher flow fuel pump for a precision injection independent of the factory setup. Meaning if the motor goes, it is due to weakness or user error, but not directly due to the nos. A dry setup relies on the factory injectors, factory fuel pump, factory fuel regulator, factory fuel rail, ecu, etc. If just one thing is slightly off, like a hickup from an injector, or a drop in fuel pressure....your soooooo screwed! God forbid you hit a rev limmiter and shut down injectors!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Its bad enough to loose a spark, but if the fuel is cut off too, you can kiss your hood and intake goodbye.
Leave the dry setups to the 50 shot ricers with their Honda's. A direct port wet setup will never need adjusting once its dialed in, you will never have a hot cylinder (or cold for that matter). Both engine banks will see equal and uniform power increases, with less stress on the head gasket.
I say spend a little more (its not much if you're pricing it) and get a direct port wet setup. It will be a very reliable alternative to the risky (easy) dry setup. If you can't do a correct install, take it to someone who can. I've never seen a properly installed proportional NOS system destroy an engine, but I have seen people blow their motors sky high due to faulty installations...and most of them were dry units or single fogger setups or just idiots who shoot 200 hp shots into a small stock engine.
#22
Originally posted by Hi-psi
Man, it amazes me how many people know absolutely NOTHING about nitrous....
With a wet kit, you always have the danger of "pooling" of unused fuel in the intake manifold. This can cause a nitrous backfire. Basically an explosion in you intake manifold. Not good.
Man, it amazes me how many people know absolutely NOTHING about nitrous....
With a wet kit, you always have the danger of "pooling" of unused fuel in the intake manifold. This can cause a nitrous backfire. Basically an explosion in you intake manifold. Not good.
Ignition of puddled fuel in a single shot wet kit, only damages the AFM or MAF. Detonation from a dry kit will blow a motor the first time. Your call.
Single shot kits (either wet or dry) will give uneven power increases to all the cylinders, making an unbalanced exhaust pulse....but thats a whole nother' topic.
Last edited by Keith13b; 06-30-03 at 01:12 PM.
#23
Everyone has their opinion, so I'm not going to pick somebody else's appart. As long as you do not overextend your fuel systems capabilities, a dry kit is FINE. I've used the Bag Kit dry system on Neon rental cars before, which I'm sure don't come with beefy fuel systems, without issue. I used a dry system on my Corvette for over 6 months, spraying probably 2 10lb bottles a week through it without issue. A close friend of mine uses the same dry kit on his 600rwhp Corvette ZR-1 without issue and has been using it for about 4 yrs.
Wet systems are not perfect. They have the unavoidable problem of "pooling" the fuel in the intake. Intakes were not meant to flow liquid or atomized fuel. If this was the case, your injectors would be at your throttle body, rather than at the end of your runners.
This is what happens when a wet kit is used, the fuel "pools" up in the intake manifold, and then ignites. Nitrous backfire.
http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~bhawalka/fireball.mpeg
Wet systems are not perfect. They have the unavoidable problem of "pooling" the fuel in the intake. Intakes were not meant to flow liquid or atomized fuel. If this was the case, your injectors would be at your throttle body, rather than at the end of your runners.
This is what happens when a wet kit is used, the fuel "pools" up in the intake manifold, and then ignites. Nitrous backfire.
http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~bhawalka/fireball.mpeg
#25
Originally posted by Keith13b
It amazes me too , because a direct port kit is designed so that puddling is not possible (i.e it will only puddle as much as a factory injector will). Its the single shot's that have the puddling problem.....and better to be overly rich than overly lean. And an induction backfire is not called a "nitrous backfire"; they are 2 different things.
Ignition of puddled fuel in a single shot wet kit, only damages the AFM or MAF. Detonation from a dry kit will blow a motor the first time. Your call.
Single shot kits (either wet or dry) will give uneven power increases to all the cylinders, making an unbalanced exhaust pulse....but thats a whole nother' topic.
It amazes me too , because a direct port kit is designed so that puddling is not possible (i.e it will only puddle as much as a factory injector will). Its the single shot's that have the puddling problem.....and better to be overly rich than overly lean. And an induction backfire is not called a "nitrous backfire"; they are 2 different things.
Ignition of puddled fuel in a single shot wet kit, only damages the AFM or MAF. Detonation from a dry kit will blow a motor the first time. Your call.
Single shot kits (either wet or dry) will give uneven power increases to all the cylinders, making an unbalanced exhaust pulse....but thats a whole nother' topic.
Another interesting setup is the new Nitrous Oxide Systems "NOSzles". Not sure if you've seen those, but they go under your fuel injectors, and have jetting for both additional fuel and the nitrous. Last I check though, they weren't that cheaper of an alternative to direct port, being about 75% of the cost, and I'm not sure if they are of universal application.
#26
At that high of an rpm, I doubt puddling was the issue (thats usually on launches at lower rpms). It appears to be too much timing for NOS.
Cool vid though. With that zoom in, it was almost like they were waiting for it to happen.
Cool vid though. With that zoom in, it was almost like they were waiting for it to happen.
#27
Originally posted by Hi-psi
I've used the Bag Kit dry system on Neon rental cars before, which I'm sure don't come with beefy fuel systems, without issue.
I've used the Bag Kit dry system on Neon rental cars before, which I'm sure don't come with beefy fuel systems, without issue.
I had foggers pre jetted for 50, 75, 100, 125, and 150 shots. Took out the air filter and shoved in the nozzle. Got up to 125 before she ever blew. I was quite impressed though. Plus no mods on the car to trace the source of the problem. "I don't know, Sir- It just stopped running".
God, those were the days.
#28
Hahaa....torque steer from a 30mph roll in a Neon with 185/80/13's on the front screaming for mercy is the best. Bwahahahaaaa......we use to suprise MANY a stock GT Mustangs with the ol' Neon. Ford Escort didn't respond as well, but the Jeep Cherekee was the shiznit redlight warrior. We put about a 125 on it, lock that baby down into 4wd-low at a redlight, push the brake to the floor, push the gas to the floor, as soon as you seen green, let off the brake and nail the nitrous. Wooooo Hoooooo Hahaa,....many I miss all that fun.
#29
I think Id rather save for turbo.... I think it'd be more fun that way, plus nitrous is too much of a risk and too much of a hassle with being careful and all, Turbo obviously is the same but you get alot more power.