BlueC

Ok, the last few years ive been more into nissan/infiniti and mostly like the I30 and the maximas, mainly because of the VQ30DE engine. Now i know the VQ is able to handle alot of power, upto 400-500 range easily, but its FWD. Lately Ive noticed the SC300 and discovered that it had the 2JZ-GE engine, same as the N/A supra. With that in mind, I knew already thats much butter than having a 400-500 FWHP sedan. And the 2JZ engine ive heard is very strong and reliable, more than the VQ. My main question is, how well does the 2JZ handle nitrous? I know the VQ can easily take like around 100-125 shot with ofcourse; colder plugs, walbro fuel pump, and watching A/F ratio. I figured an Auto SC300 with a T/C upgrade could easily take a 100shot, but I could be wrong, thats why im here. Now RWD would be much more benefitial compared to FWD with using nitrous, but its always about what the engine can handle.

I know you can easily turbo the N/A 2JZ, but Nitrous would work better with my budget if I were to buy an older SC300 (1995-ish), but it would still leave me with the option to turbo in the future.

Ive read through the forum quite a bit, but I still havent found any good info on how well nitrous works with the SC300.. Also, how well does the Auto tranny on the SC300s hold up with alot of power?

Lastly, which is the safest Nitrous setup for the SCs? Wet, Dry, or Direct Port?

Thx in advance!

boredguy77

RIght on.

with all of these things and proper tuning the 2jzge could handle it easily. but the problem is, what are you using to monitor 02's?

not well at all! we automatic turbo guys have to tune for around 350 rwhp, or the auto tranny will be short lived.

BlueC

Yea, the maxima guys that turbo and such cant handle much at all on their auto trannys either, but Ive noticed the SC300 auto trannys look to be able to handle more. Also, i heard somewhere else that a wet nitrous kit would be MOST dangerous and that Direct port is much safer, i always thought wet was safer, so with what you said I guess Wet would be the safest setup.

When you meanchon the 02s... what exactly are you saying? I know you can buy a AFC controller and gauges to moniter the A/F ratio, but how you stated the question, is there a problem concerning 02 sensor monitering on the SC300s?

Im really looking into buying an older SC300 (95-ish probably) sometime in the early Fall, I orginally thought id go buy a 4thgen maxima or I30, but RWD and the 2JZ engine really got me thinking towards the SC300. I especially love the styling too. I figure, If I purchase a SC300 with not too many mile, around 100k or so, make sure everything is working; upgrade exhaust , intake, Torque Converter, get a NX wet kit and run a 75 shot with gauges to moniter everything needed, colder plugs, Walbro 255fuel pump, hen possibly Supra TT 17x9.5 rims, I should see some very nice gains especially on the auto.

Curious to know, what kind of times have some of the SC300 owners gotten on the 1/4mile with nitrous? I noticed that not too many people are running nitrous.

reamemiya

iTrader: (1)

VQ's are really powerful and reliable engines....i'd say even more than the 2jz-ge...i mean it's cousin's with the rb and the sr. And the compression on the 2jz-GE is already pretty high. i just wanted to say something about the nissans

BlueC

VQs cant handle as much power, they were tested to handle about 525 hp and thats when the block cracked. 2JZ im sure can hande much more power. They are very reliable, the VQ engines, but I would say Lexus has highest reliability around.

reamemiya

iTrader: (1)

hold up hold up...we're talking about the 2jz-ge...not the gte. on the NA 2jz it could probably only take a good 500 hp too. y not get your self a thicker gasket. and maybe some internals to lower your compression. and turbo your car? (turbo is always the best option FOR ME )and the thing is i know you're not pulling out 525 on your car. and what's this about 500 fwd cars? are you planning on swaping a 2jz in your maxima or something...or are you planning on selling your car and looking to get an sc300? haha i'm lost now...

mamurra2

I don't believe wet systems are better, intake manifolds were designed to flow air, not liquid.
The absolute safest would be a direct port with the nozzles no more than and inch or two from the port.
A dry kit would work well till around 100hp, at that point the kit is having to jack up fuel pressure so much that the injectors probably won't be very comfortable, not to mention the fuel pump..

BlueC

No no, haha. Im comparing the VQ30DE engine to the 2JZ-GE engine, I was saying, it would be better to have like 300RWHP than to have like 400FWHP, because with FWD traction is always an issue. Turbo is not an option for me, but maybe in the future, just because of the total cost of everytihng. Nitrous wouild be much easier, turn it on when i go out to the track or need xtra power on the highway, and turn it back off for daily driving. Much less in cost. Would lowering the compression with nitrous help make it run better? Ive thought about that possibility. My main goal is to find a 95-ish SC300 in the next few months and then mod it upto around 250-300RWHP possibly with nitrous and other n/a mods, especially the T/C. I dont need a 500hp car, becuase whatever car I get will be my only car, hence the daily driving thing.

Hopefully that clears things up.

boredguy77

you know the ge and gte have the same internals right!!!

BlueC

So what kinda of 1/4mile times have some of you people gotten with N20 on a sc300??

reamemiya

iTrader: (1)

you know that the compression on the ge is a lot higher riight?!?! that's what i thought

reamemiya

iTrader: (1)

I SAY YOU JUST GET AN RX7 i still think turbo's the best solution. just boost up when you're on the track then lower your psi's when you're just cruising. i mean NOS only kicks in for a little while then it's out ( plus i don't have NOS but i hear it's like 500$ to refill a bottle..? quote me if i'm wrong i'm not 100% sure). and higher the risk of blowing your engine a lot more. i guess same with turbo, but come on IT'S TURBO

boredguy77

yeah, and thats what makes it so interesting!! nitrous plus the 10:1 would make a great combo as long as the necessary steps to manage it are taken. Think of it this way, if he gets a TC and then runs the nitrous on the 10:1 his 60ft will be killer, something that a low compression slug is hard pressed to do. (please note that the phrase low compression slug is relative, as low compression slugs usually wail on our high compression engines once the turbo kicks in )

BlueC

um...hehe, its like $30-40 to fill an EMPTY bottle, and usually you only do that once. Nitrous can be safe you you tune it properly, and it gives a nice kick to it which I think is more fun. N20 is the best bang for the buck since you can buy a wet kit easily for around $500, get a few accessories like a purge valve (thats the valve where you can clear the nitrous lines of all the gases for an even harder kick of power, plus it looks cool) and then you probably hit $800 or so. Now 100hp for $800 is a good deal, and even though its only temporary, think about this.... when you race, you only need the power then, you really dont need like 400hp as a daily driver, now i know you can just turn down the boost, but still, if you do alot of daily driving and not alot of racing, nitrous is a good way to save money for power.

Hi-psi

Man, it amazes me how many people know absolutely NOTHING about nitrous.

Here's a few random points I want to make. I'm new to the SC300 world having owned mine for about a month now, however, I've been a gearhead all of my life. Exactly as somebody mentioned, the "best" nitrous system is always going to be direct port. There's a reason NHRA Pro-Stock cars use this setup. Intake manifolds weren't meant to flow liquid. With a wet kit, you always have the danger of "pooling" of unused fuel in the intake manifold. This can cause a nitrous backfire. Basically an explosion in you intake manifold. Not good. Dry kits are cheap, and easy, but best used on a mass air fuel injection system instead of speed densisty. The SC300 has a mass air system. My Corvette also has a mass air system and I use to run a 135hp shot dry kit on it. One of the cheapest and easiest dry kits on the market is the Compucar "Bag Kit". This is a universal system that can be installed on ANY vehicle in less than 30 minutes, and comes with the appropriate jets for anywhere from a 30 to 150hp shot. This kit injects the nitrous upstream of the MAF sensor, and as it passes by the MAF, the MAF richens the A/F ratio to match the nitrous. The only concerns with it are than you need to make sure you have a healthy fuel pump, and that you aren't already maxing out the duty cycle on your injectors. This kit is $396 with a full 10lb bottle. Depending on your area, refill prices vary, but you can normally find it for $2-$3 a pound. So 10lb bottle will cost you $20-$30 to refill. How often you will need to refill is greatly dependant on the size shot you use and how frequently. On my Corvette with the 135-shot, I could get 6-8 full 1/4 mile passes out of a full bottle. So obviously a lower shot and less use would allow a bottle to last longer. People get too wrapped up in the HP of nitrous also. Nitrous has a greater impact on torque. Without getting too much into the physics of it, HP doesn't really exist. HP is defined as the numeric representation of torque applied over a period of time (RPM). Torque is what matters. It's what accellerates the car. When you dyno a vehicle, the dyno ONLY measures torque. It then uses an formula to use the torque value and the RPM value to derive the HP value. This forumula balances out at 5250rpm, this is why if you look at the dyno chart for ANY internal combustion motor, the HP and torque curves will ALWAYS cross at 5250rpm because this is when the forumula balences on both sides. When I had the 135 shot on my Corvette, it picked up 117hp at the wheels on the dyno, but almost 170 ft-lbs of torque at the wheels. A 170 ft-lbs jump at the wheels feels like a Mack truck just nailed you in the a$$ when you hit it. This is the reason my Vette would bust the tires loose at 60mph when I sprayed it. Just for reference, you can see the noticeable jumps in power curves when I sprayed it on the dyno. If you can't tell, I hit the nitrous at about 3500rpm.

http://www.hi-psi.com/bbpics/dyno2.jpg

I am by no means a "nitrous guru", but I'll happily answer any questions anyone may have that I can.