Cam Upgrade for stock 2jz-GE
#2
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Are you planning on going NA-t in the future? What other supporting mods are you planning?
These cars are dual overhead cam BTW and will need to have the valve lash adjusted with a new set of cams. You will also want to replace the springs and retainers if you increase the cam duration.
These cars are dual overhead cam BTW and will need to have the valve lash adjusted with a new set of cams. You will also want to replace the springs and retainers if you increase the cam duration.
#3
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I believe all of the 2JZ-GE cams currently available are for NA-T conversions.
They don't necessarily advertise that; but when you look at the specs, then look at their GTE cams, and the specs are the exact same, that proves it.
This is how all the BC cams are. They list 2JZ-GE applications (VVTI and non-) but the specs of those cams are identical to their GTE (VVTI and non-) cams.
They don't necessarily advertise that; but when you look at the specs, then look at their GTE cams, and the specs are the exact same, that proves it.
This is how all the BC cams are. They list 2JZ-GE applications (VVTI and non-) but the specs of those cams are identical to their GTE (VVTI and non-) cams.
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TobyStowe (09-14-18)
#4
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I believe all of the 2JZ-GE cams currently available are for NA-T conversions.
They don't necessarily advertise that; but when you look at the specs, then look at their GTE cams, and the specs are the exact same, that proves it.
This is how all the BC cams are. They list 2JZ-GE applications (VVTI and non-) but the specs of those cams are identical to their GTE (VVTI and non-) cams.
They don't necessarily advertise that; but when you look at the specs, then look at their GTE cams, and the specs are the exact same, that proves it.
This is how all the BC cams are. They list 2JZ-GE applications (VVTI and non-) but the specs of those cams are identical to their GTE (VVTI and non-) cams.
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TobyStowe (09-14-18)
#5
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^^ Yep. If going with a turbo setup then changing cams make sense but staying NA the 2JZ-GE is very optimized as it is from the factory with very little room to go beyond 225hp unless a tremendous amount of major work is done using an aftermarket ECU and race fuel or E85... which has been done by a very select few with respectable but not huge results but only after spending well beyond what an NA-T or GTE swap costs.
However even just converting to NA-T with a good inexpensive turbo, Aristo 2JZ-GTE ECU, coil on plug and distributor delete the stock GE cams should still do pretty well HP-wise until big power is desired.
There is a thread on SF with the words "Blasphemous Supra" in the main title. There you can see a chronicle of just how much work, time and especially money went into turning a stripped down MKIV NA into a full track car with pretty much a race NA engine build tuned for race gas or E85. Even then I don't think anything was done with the cams or at least the cams used weren't all that special. Most of it came down to a fully custom tubular header, major head porting and valvetrain work, aftermarket ECU tuning and custom fitted ITBs. A very cool and unique if limited result after that much work and investment while at the same time proving that it's not at all cost effective to go with NA tuning tricks with a JZ engine.
No one here means to discourage you, OP. It's just the nature of these engines that they're suited for forced induction rather than NA tuning.
However even just converting to NA-T with a good inexpensive turbo, Aristo 2JZ-GTE ECU, coil on plug and distributor delete the stock GE cams should still do pretty well HP-wise until big power is desired.
There is a thread on SF with the words "Blasphemous Supra" in the main title. There you can see a chronicle of just how much work, time and especially money went into turning a stripped down MKIV NA into a full track car with pretty much a race NA engine build tuned for race gas or E85. Even then I don't think anything was done with the cams or at least the cams used weren't all that special. Most of it came down to a fully custom tubular header, major head porting and valvetrain work, aftermarket ECU tuning and custom fitted ITBs. A very cool and unique if limited result after that much work and investment while at the same time proving that it's not at all cost effective to go with NA tuning tricks with a JZ engine.
No one here means to discourage you, OP. It's just the nature of these engines that they're suited for forced induction rather than NA tuning.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 09-06-18 at 09:54 PM.
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TobyStowe (09-14-18)
#6
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So how would I maximize my hp? Someone told me the 2jz-ge could hold around 700hp pretty comfortably, true or no? Yes I was planning on running a turbo, and also making it manual. I race dirt mods, but this is my first attempt at upgrading a car like this so all info is super helpful thanks!
Last edited by TobyStowe; 09-14-18 at 01:22 PM. Reason: forgot to answer a question from mrmj2u
#7
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Step 1: Perform a leak down and compression test on your engine.
Step 2: Perform routine maintenance on the car, including timing belt, water pump, thermostat, harmonic balancer, etc
Step 3: Check your suspension bushings and shocks for wear
What year is your car? If it is a VVTI engine, plan on pulling the engine and replacing the rods with nonVVTI rods. If it is non VVTI you can proceed to step 4.
Step 4: Research going NA-t; There are kits out there that some swear by and others detest, that is your decision. What is really not up for discussion is step 5
Step 5: Decide on engine management. The stock ECU will freak out with boost, so you will need to go with a GTE ECU mod at the least.
Step 6: Install whatever you decide to install and have fun
Next you will have to decide on which route you will go in for your manual swap as there are 3 main options R154, CD009, Tremec T56... W58 is not a good option for NA-t, not for anything above about 400hp.
Step 2: Perform routine maintenance on the car, including timing belt, water pump, thermostat, harmonic balancer, etc
Step 3: Check your suspension bushings and shocks for wear
What year is your car? If it is a VVTI engine, plan on pulling the engine and replacing the rods with nonVVTI rods. If it is non VVTI you can proceed to step 4.
Step 4: Research going NA-t; There are kits out there that some swear by and others detest, that is your decision. What is really not up for discussion is step 5
Step 5: Decide on engine management. The stock ECU will freak out with boost, so you will need to go with a GTE ECU mod at the least.
Step 6: Install whatever you decide to install and have fun
Next you will have to decide on which route you will go in for your manual swap as there are 3 main options R154, CD009, Tremec T56... W58 is not a good option for NA-t, not for anything above about 400hp.
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#8
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Sounds like you have a whole bunch of research ahead, don't worry about the cams the stock ones will give you the early torque you are looking for.
Most na-t builds keep the stock cams and make plenty of power, for the dirt I would imagine down low torque and quick response is ideal then keep the stock cams.
If you go larger you will move your powerband to the higher rpm's and the lag will increase, which is good for straight line racing or accelerating flat out.
With the right turbo setup these engines put out a lot of power, and the stock cam is not bad at all so skip that and spend the money on a good ecu and tune.
Most na-t builds keep the stock cams and make plenty of power, for the dirt I would imagine down low torque and quick response is ideal then keep the stock cams.
If you go larger you will move your powerband to the higher rpm's and the lag will increase, which is good for straight line racing or accelerating flat out.
With the right turbo setup these engines put out a lot of power, and the stock cam is not bad at all so skip that and spend the money on a good ecu and tune.
#9
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Step 1: Perform a leak down and compression test on your engine.
Step 2: Perform routine maintenance on the car, including timing belt, water pump, thermostat, harmonic balancer, etc
Step 3: Check your suspension bushings and shocks for wear
What year is your car? If it is a VVTI engine, plan on pulling the engine and replacing the rods with nonVVTI rods. If it is non VVTI you can proceed to step 4.
Step 4: Research going NA-t; There are kits out there that some swear by and others detest, that is your decision. What is really not up for discussion is step 5
Step 5: Decide on engine management. The stock ECU will freak out with boost, so you will need to go with a GTE ECU mod at the least.
Step 6: Install whatever you decide to install and have fun
Next you will have to decide on which route you will go in for your manual swap as there are 3 main options R154, CD009, Tremec T56... W58 is not a good option for NA-t, not for anything above about 400hp.
Step 2: Perform routine maintenance on the car, including timing belt, water pump, thermostat, harmonic balancer, etc
Step 3: Check your suspension bushings and shocks for wear
What year is your car? If it is a VVTI engine, plan on pulling the engine and replacing the rods with nonVVTI rods. If it is non VVTI you can proceed to step 4.
Step 4: Research going NA-t; There are kits out there that some swear by and others detest, that is your decision. What is really not up for discussion is step 5
Step 5: Decide on engine management. The stock ECU will freak out with boost, so you will need to go with a GTE ECU mod at the least.
Step 6: Install whatever you decide to install and have fun
Next you will have to decide on which route you will go in for your manual swap as there are 3 main options R154, CD009, Tremec T56... W58 is not a good option for NA-t, not for anything above about 400hp.
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