No start, code 24.
#16
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Okay, update time. Picked up a 12v test probe and spark tester while I was out and about today. Unfortunately the only type of spark tester I could find isn't really compatible with our recessed plugs, so I pulled a plug, wrapped wire around the threads and grounded it. It's daytime, so I wouldn't be able to see the plug fire, so I put the spark tester inline. Still wasn't able to see it light up. Being that I don't get any kind of ignition on either bank, I'm assuming that neither coil is firing, but I'm about to hook the plug and spark tester directly to each coil to rule out a cap/rotor issue. Currently looking for any documentation that will help me trace my power to make sure all my modules are getting power before I rule out any faulty components.
#17
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Update again: After feeding 12v to the white wire/IGN signal from ECU on the igniters (using a wire piercing multimeter probe and a section of wire), I don't get a spark from either coil when I disconnect from the dizzy cap and place the lead near a grounding point, just a very faint scratching sound, which tells me that either both coils or igniters are faulty (hard to believe), or I have low/no voltage on my +12V line coming from the ignition relay.
Last edited by PhantomCS; 11-09-19 at 12:15 PM.
#18
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Alright final update for the day, I think. After making sure I have +12V at both the igniter and coil, I can confirm that the ignition relay is working as intended. When putting +12V to the white (ign signal from ECU), the voltage drops to about 11.2V. Not sure what I'm SUPPOSED to be seeing here, but I wanted to observe it anyway. Driver's side coil is reading approx 0.4ohms (which I believe to be in spec), didn't ohm out the other since it's hard to get to, and both coils exhibited the same symptoms. Now I'm scratching my head. Are both ignitors faulty? If I'm not mistaken, the ignitors are supposed to interrupt ground to the coil, correct? So when I have the white wire being fed +12V, I should be reading +0V at my ignition coils... but I'm not. And yes, I've confirmed that the igniters are properly grounded.
#19
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Turns out, both coils were dead as ****. Passenger side had an OE toyota coil, driver's side had an aftermarket replacement. New coils, and fired right up. Now to find out why she idles at almost 3k rpm.
#20
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Just coming into this thread at the last post. Good solving the coil issue!
For the 3k rpm high idle I would check for any faults in the Idle Air Control Valve circuit wires, IAC-V connector (order and replace with a new one if it has disintegrated— half the part number is embossed in tiny letters on the connector and you add “90980-“ before it), or if your idle air control valve itself has failed.
For the 3k rpm high idle I would check for any faults in the Idle Air Control Valve circuit wires, IAC-V connector (order and replace with a new one if it has disintegrated— half the part number is embossed in tiny letters on the connector and you add “90980-“ before it), or if your idle air control valve itself has failed.
#21
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Just coming into this thread at the last post. Good solving the coil issue!
For the 3k rpm high idle I would check for any faults in the Idle Air Control Valve circuit wires, IAC-V connector (order and replace with a new one if it has disintegrated— half the part number is embossed in tiny letters on the connector), or if your idle air control valve itself has failed.
For the 3k rpm high idle I would check for any faults in the Idle Air Control Valve circuit wires, IAC-V connector (order and replace with a new one if it has disintegrated— half the part number is embossed in tiny letters on the connector), or if your idle air control valve itself has failed.
Dunno if this will work, but here's the video I took after replacing the coils and trying it for the first time.
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#22
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F me in the B-hole, I tore the IACV gasket. Ugh. I'll make one tomorrow. Disassembled the IACV, and the bearings seemed pretty good, not excessively dirty inside or anything. Cleaned it all up, and reassembled. Tomorrow I'll pick up some gasket material while I'm working. Every electrical connector on this motor is shot. The TPS looks like it's held together with gorilla glue, the MAF is missing the locking tab, the ignitors both are missing locking tabs, both coils need new connectors, IACV connector was being held on by what I can only assume was butyl dumdum rope.
#23
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Made a slightly leaky gasket for the IACV, and fired the car up. 1700 rpm idle. Clamped off the hose, and it barely dropped. After spraying ever vacuum line with brake cleaner and finding no change, I played with the dashpot under the throttle body, and the car died. Unclamped the IACV hose, pressed on the dashpot linkage, and idle dropped down to about where it sounds like it should be. Obviously couldn't look at the gauge and hold the dashpot at the same time. Any ideas what's going on? I've never had a car with shenanigans like this attached to the throttle body.
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