tora117

I’m trying to get the intake runners off my ge and all I have left is what looks to be a fuel line and one more connector.
I can’t seem to get this hose off, I tried getting it off with a flathead and noticed there is another rubber hose underneath. I split the end of the hose and need to figure out what the part is so I can get another one.
The hose is in red, the part is in blue.
I looked through some diagrams and can’t figure out what this is.

thanks

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

What year is the engine? the blue one looks like the fuel damper.

Hard to see what rubber line that is but it looks like the fuel line going into the fuel damper.
So it goes like this on SC's, fuel tank to a hardline which runs to a fuel filter on the frame rail, then from filter to the damper (using I think that red hose circled, should have metal pressed ends on it).
Then there is a line from the damper that runs up to the fuel rail (I could have the 2 lines mixed up but it is obvious the one that is connected to the fuel rail).

At least that is what it looks like, there is also a rubber fuel return line in that area on non vvti models (which is low pressure and has hose clamps on it).
also a coolant line for the throttle body and the one that wraps around the block.
Should be obvious once you follow where it is and where it is going.

They make a damper delete kit when going turbo which is a fuel line from the filter straight to the rail.
make sure you get a SC specific one if you use this damper delete, as the mk4 fuel filter is much closer to the engine than on the SC and the mk4 hose will be too short.

Also, if that is the line for the damper, that rubber part does not just come off like that it is fitted on so don't pry on it and check that it doesn't leak when it goes back together from that.
Remember the feed side of the fuel system is pressurized, so there is a good amount of pressure there when running.
I think there is just a clip holding that line to the lower runner, you shouldn't have to touch the damper or the lines just to remove the lower runners, just pop the rubber line out of the clip or remove the clip from the lower runner (usually 10 or 12mm bolt).

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

from the manual, for some reason it only shows one of the 2 hoses.

tora117

Yeah that must be what it is thanks. Now my only problem is how to get these fuel lines off. I’ve never seen a fuel line that didn’t have some sort of metal lock or spring on it but these don’t have anything. It’s just a rubber hose with what looks like another hose underneath it. I’ve tugged on it as hard as I can without breaking anything and couldn’t press it out with a flathead either.
I supposed I will research the delete lines you were talking about and I may just cut it off but I don’t want to damage anything right now.

Here is another picture of the line and metal barn. Not the best quality due to lack of space hence why I’m removing the intake.

Edit: Didn’t see the last part about the pressed on fittings. I damaged the line already from trying to get it off the other day so I will figure out what to do in the morning as I am very tired.

tora117

Line runs to the fuel rail

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

^^ Everything Ali said above. I believe that lower banjo bolt on the fuel pulsation damper is a 17mm. As you can see from the TSRM page Ali posted it's on there pretty tight-- 47ft-lbs from the factory. It's a bit of a PITA to break loose. If you're removing the engine block that's the only one you need to do. OR you could just unbolt the bracket the damper is mounted on. However if you did that you would not have the leverage you'd need to break loose the 17mm banjo bolt.

The upper "bolt" is really just the pulsation damper itself and requires a solid 17mm open ended wrench to get off. The confines are very tight in there so the way to do it if I recall is to break the bottom bolt loose from under the car (on a shop lift, on jack stands, on front ramps-- please use caution!) and as Ali warned be aware that fuel will come out fo the line as you break the 17mm banjo bolt loose.

The red circled part in your picture should be the fuel return line. That also will be full of fuel when you get it loose. Generally the way to get that off is not from the inside of the manifold but from the outside of it where you can use a set of tension clamp pliers to loosen the OEM clamp, shove it back onto the rubber fuel rated hose and with gloves and goggles on and a rag on the ready pop off that rubber fuel hose. What you'll be left with is the return fuel hard line that is held on by the upper fuel pulsation damper "mushroom".

With the bottom line on the fuel pulsation damper removed and the upper rubber fuel return line removed you can then just unbolt the fuel pulsation damper bracket from the engine block with a socket wrench or 3/8ths breaker bar on the appropriate size socket.

Now I'm unfamiliar with doing a fuel pulsation damper full delete so on that I will defer to Ali as he's much more familiar with non-stock configurations

Also just FYI... if you for any reason need to put that fuel pulsation damper back in any way and need to connect the same or other physically compatible fuel banjo lines you MUST replace the one-time-use metal crush gaskets on every banjo line. Each line will have two metal crush gaskets. I have the part number for them in my build thread with the post on the fuel pulsation damper. You do not want to chance a fuel leak by re-using old metal crush gaskets that won't seal as tightly and evenly as new ones.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Kahn is on point. That line comes off by removing the fuel damper (it acts as the "banjo" bolt).

With that line broken though, I would just remove that mess by disconnecting the one line from the fuel rail (also a banjo bolt situation), disconnect the other side at the fuel filter (be very careful you don't strip the head here use a proper wrench), and take out the damper completely including the broken line (should only be a few bolts holding it to the block somewhere).

Then get the SC damper delete, and run it straight from the fuel filter to the fuel rail. While you are down there and the gas has spilt all over the place (oh the burns and itches), good time to do the fuel filter also.
Just be careful and hold the filter when you take the lines off, you don't want to twist or break any of the oem hard lines or its more work to replace/repair those, they are pretty old by now.

If you do decide to repair the dampener, as Kahn noted there are 2 crush washers on every banjo connection (you will need 4 new ones since you have started taking it apart).
Do not take this lightly, I know 2 SC's off the top of my head that burnt to the ground on startup where someone missed something on the fuel system, it does not take long to happen with a fuel leak.
So make sure you have both crush washers on the banjo bolt on your fuel rail also, the bolt goes through the first washer, the hardline, the second washer, then into the rail.

Normally you don't touch those hoses and just unclip from the lower runner and move out of the way without disconnecting. But you might as well upgrade since you got down there already.

Last tech tip since you have the fuel system open, when you are completely finished putting it back together, don't test it by starting the car cause that is a bad idea and can cause a fire if there is a leak.
open the diagnostic connector in the engine bay, and with the engine off jump fp and b+ and that will give power (b+) to the fuel pump (fp) temporarily which will fill the lines and rail with fuel so you can check for leaks with the engine off and cold.
Always a good idea to do this last step after fuel system mods. Don't try and start it and then super quick look for leaks, it might not end very well.