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look up how to run the power wire for amplifiers, you can run it through there comes out by drivers foot area.
^^ As Ali SC3 says you need to run the wires through a grommet in the driver's side firewall. You access it by jacking up the front of the car, putting it up on stands, removing the driver's side wheel, removing the driver's side fender liner part way and then accessing a little rubber grommet that goes into the driver's side footwell area.
Get a section of straight coat hanger and some electrical tape and tape all the wires you want to run through onto that coat hanger rod. Run it from the driver's side through to the fender well side. Then adjust how much wire you will need on both ends (leave excess to make OEM style harnesses from using Delphi or Weatherpak style gasketed electrical connectors) and then use some more Scotch Super 33+ professional electrical tape to tidy those wires up... or get some thin plastic bendy tubing, run the wires through those on the fender well side and run the electrical tape over that. However you like to make your own electrical harnesses and finishing for them.
I recommend running a couple more wires than you need (a couple in 14ga are good to have there too) so that you can always have some extra wires to work with in the future and not have to go to all the trouble of running more through there again. You may want to have additional signal wires pre-plumbed and coiled up for a future oil temperature gauge, future electric boost gauge, etc.
This is also the same area of the firewall that I ran my thick 10ga wire (20A fused in line) for my direct battery positive to 30/40A relay to my Fuel ECU and TT fuel pump. That wire hides under the lower door sill and goes all the way to the back seat area.
I made a similar DIY for this many years ago showing how to install wiring through the firewall for a fog light switch on the dash. The same principles apply for any accessory wiring through the firewall.
It isn't that hard to pull the fender liner back and then it is a very clear shot into the interior. Comes thru at a good place for anything you would want to run thru. I will be using this again
For mounting I recommend one of those Autoextrude panels that replace your ashtray. They also make a steering column twin gauge mount. The ashtray area is very ideal though, especially for things like oil pressure, oil temp and volts that aren’t nearly as critical after the SC is warmed up to operating temperature. Their side vent gauge mount is good too but I think it’s a better location for boost, AFRs, EGT or some multi-function gauge.
For mounting I recommend one of those Autoextrude panels that replace your ashtray. They also make a steering column twin gauge mount. The ashtray area is very ideal though, especially for things like oil pressure, oil temp and volts that aren’t nearly as critical after the SC is warmed up to operating temperature. Their side vent gauge mount is good too but I think it’s a better location for boost, AFRs, EGT or some multi-function gauge.
Guys thanks for the help!
Really like these full sweep gauges. It is a bit suprising how much the oil pressure changes. Starts high when cold 60-70, and goes as low as 20 when warmed up and driving around. The gauge is not one of the new models but it is a good ones with a stepper motor movement. Got it and some others off eBay, they come out of Nascar and are replaced with newer models or just junked, they cost about $70 with sensor.
Ultimately I want to locate the gauges in the glove box.
At cold startup the oil pressure should usually begin around 80-90psi.
I usually let it warm up to around 30-35psi before I start driving.
At full operating temperature it should be at 20-25psi at idle.
Typically I’ll go very easy on acceleration/boost until the oil pressure and oil temperature are both close to full operating temperature.
Oil pressure will raise again as the RPMs go up while driving.
So your readings sound about normal to me.
Oil temperature on the other hand is yet another indicator as to whether or not the engine is actually warmed up. Full operating oil temp should be about 190-200F or between 200-230F or so while doing normal or mild spirited driving for a turbo JZ engine.
You can set up one of those with a Mishimoto oil filter sandwich plate on your oil filter mounting area. The filter thread is 3/4-16 UNF for 2JZ’s. Those plates have 1/8” NPT fittings for sensors (Be sure to use thread sealant and to seal and tighten all the unused NPT thread areas on the plate before installation).
Glove box mounting works too and is a popular sport for gauges Especially that one totally unused space closest to the passenger door where it looks like something *should* have been mounted there inside the globe box.
I have a temp gauge but the sensor adapter I had only had one 1/8 NPT port and the temp probe wouldn't fit in, I am thinking of adding an NPT "tee" to have both pressure and temperature.
04-07-20, 08:08 AM
Autometer Oil Pressure Gauge Install
Especially that one totally unused space closest to the passenger door where it looks like something *should* have been mounted there inside the globe box.