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@Tallyhoe It could be possible. I have tried the neutral start and a gentle press forward on the shifter to see if it will start. Neither worked. I have tried with a copper wire to bypass the diagnostic inside. Might be too thick ...oddly I haven't found any paperclips in my house..even with school-age kids. none in the house. But to be clear, what pins need to be jumpered to bypass and start it? I have seen several different explanations online that give many different ports to jump.
Just put the car in reverse and the reverse lights came one. Would it still be the switch? The shifter is a bit loose, but after almost 30 years I expect that.
Would disconnecting the Theft-Detternet ECU and eliminating it altogether disable the car or if I plan on an alarm later on. Do I really need it. This is the only thing I haven't really troubleshot yet. But in the cabin, the light is not blinking and I have done the reset in the driver door of 3-4 times turning the lock/un-lock to reset it.
Well ran into another issue with the car. Replaced the relays in the engine bay and they ohm out fine. Checked the ground on the chassis and the engine block. Both are good. Cleaned the chassis one just for reassurance. Checked the fuse box in the driver kick panel. All fuses checked good except the starter one. The readout at .44 volts. So there is one issue. Need to follow it and see what or where it leads to in the wiring. Did I mention I hate wiring? Pulled the ECU out and the damn bolts and line up marks for the connectors where painted PINK! Yes, I said I pink. I opened it up and didn't see anything out of the ordinary for leaks or char marks. So this is telling me that whoever owned the car before the guy I got it from knew of this issue and had some work done and possibly didn't tell him. SO if I decide to keep this money pit, seems a reman ECU is the works as well. Also tried to hand turn the engine and it would not turn at all. Pulled the plugs and it would still not turn. However, the #6 plug was severely corroded up near the ceramic and oxidized/corroded near the gap. But the others were in better shape. I sprayed penetrating oil in the cylinders to see if I can get the engine to break free and maybe save this thing. Running out of funds to fix this thing to just make it a daily driver. Not the route I wanted to go with this car. SO the car is sitting with the throttle body off and engine covered to keep the elements out while it sits a couple of days to see if the penetrant works. So, does anyone have any other suggestions?
Hello all. Just recently picked up a 92 SC300 for free. It won't start. But I did put in a new battery and all the electronics do work as well as windows, seats, and mirrors. When trying to start it does click but won't even turn over. I tried jumping the TE1 and E1, did not get the engine light to come on at all. Used the OBD hook up at the kick plate. But the engine and oil lights do stay on even after 2-3 minutes. The gas gauge doesn't register either (might be bad). But for free a little investment might be worth it. The next steps are the alternator, starter then fuel filter. Read somewhere else about using cleaner near the MAF sensor and not to do that. Also inspected the IMC on the driver fender and it looked pretty clean with no corrosion, Same thing with all the fuses in the engine bay.
[QUOTE=Nokton40mm;10906708]Well ran into another issue with the car. Replaced the relays in the engine bay and they ohm out fine. Checked the ground on the chassis and the engine block. Both are good. Cleaned the chassis one just for reassurance. Checked the fuse box in the driver kick panel. All fuses checked good except the starter one. The readout at .44 volts. So there is one issue. Need to follow it and see what or where it leads to in the wiring. Did I mention I hate wiring? Pulled the ECU out and the damn bolts and line up marks for the connectors where painted PINK! Yes, I said I pink. I opened it up and didn't see anything out of the ordinary for leaks or char marks. So this is telling me that whoever owned the car before the guy I got it from knew of this issue and had some work done and possibly didn't tell him. SO if I decide to keep this money pit, seems a reman ECU is the works as well. Also tried to hand turn the engine and it would not turn at all. Pulled the plugs and it would still not turn. However, the #6 plug was severely corroded up near the ceramic and oxidized/corroded near the gap. But the others were in better shape. I sprayed penetrating oil in the cylinders to see if I can get the engine to break free and maybe save this thing. Running out of funds to fix this thing to just make it a daily driver. Not the route I wanted to go with this car. SO the car is sitting with the throttle body off and engine covered to keep the elements out while it sits a couple of days to see if the penetrant works. So, does anyone have any other suggestions?
Yea a locked up engine wont help your starter or electronics lmfao. Best bet is a junk yard motor at this point sorry to say. You can check facebook marketplace or craigslist too
09-20-20, 08:52 AM
