salimshah

I have a 95 SC400 and I am in the process of removing the transmission from the engine.

I have been following http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/trans...n/removal.html as a guide.

My personal understanding is to remove the inspection cover and decouple the torque convertor from the flywheel/pressure-plate before detaching the transmission from the engine. The above mentioned guide does that in Step 17 which is after the detaching step.

So what have you guys done and any pros/cons?

Salim

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Not sure why it is pictured after but you need to do that step early on to disconnect the torque converter before you try and undo the bellhousing and pull the transmission off the engine.
I would probably do it before the driveshaft is off in case you are having trouble breaking the bolts loose with it just in park so you can put the rear brake on as well or you will have to jam something in the flywheel to keep it from moving.

Once you do get it free and you get to the point where bellhousing bolts are out and you are backing the trans out of the engine... get a couple large zip ties and zip tie the torque converter to the front of the trans bellhousing so it can't slide forward and fall off the front.
Even though you drain the oil, the torque converter holds a bunch of fluid.. and it is only sandwiched in place between the engine and trans, so it can fall off while you are dropping the trans and trans fluid will get *everywhere*.
And a glove/plastic bag over the tailshaft to keep any left over fluid dumping on you while you are pulling it.
Also unless you do have a full car lift, get a transmission jack from the hardware store, its worth its weight in gold after you see how easy it is to get the trans down and especially back up and aligned perfectly.
The only extra part with the trans jack is having the car high enough to slide the trans out underneath the frame rails or out the back with it on the jack, but if you are just doing the main rear seal you wont have to slide it out fully.
Even if you have to it is easier to go from jack height to the ground on carboard or something you can slide and vice versa to lift it back when you are done.
Good luck Salim!! if you get stuck let us know

salimshah

Thank you for a timely reply. Tips are great.

The 14mm nuts on the front Cat [TWC] put up a fight. Luckily the vehicle is rust free and the studs are good. I was getting ready to do the drive shaft next, but now I will decouple the torque converter.

We had a slight leak and I put it off as I wanted to do the auto to manual conversion and started collecting parts. Procuring a transmission was the last step but as time has moved on my sons interests have changed to EV.

Salim

salimshah

Seal is in.

Few things did not go as planned
1. Steering pump hose to reservoir split open as I lifted the front of the engine. The rubber had turned to stone and had no flex.... collateral damage.

2. The Torque convertor at the last minute decided to hang with the flex plate and I had transmission oil all over the garage ... exactly as warned by Ali.


Q: I am about to start re-assembly and I can not figure out how the torque convertor seals with the input shaft of the transmission. I can not find any O ring or even a groove for the O ring. Only thing I can think of is that the O ring sits inside the Torque converter. I also was unable to find any reference on how the trans fluid being pumped by the transmission through the shaft is sealed.

I don't want to put it together to find out that the trans fluid is leaking.

Help!

Salim

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Wish I knew the answer, I mostly just remove the auto transmissions for manuals lol.
Maybe try and find a picture in the manual.

salimshah

No problem .. I figured it out. Just needed to shine light and the front seal of the transmission does the sealing between the housing and the rotating Torque Convertor. Without the light .. I thought the shaft was sitting in the seal. Everything is now computing.

Salim

salimshah

update:
Transmission bolted back after replacing seals between engine and transmission.

I did the repair all by myself. Used harbor-freight moving cart and many 2x4 placed strategically with scissors jack in the front and one in the back. That allowed me to move the trans and adjust angle. Took my time and mated the transmission to the block by squeezing either sides ... smooth as a butter. Spun the crank and the TC stayed in place confirming the TC was at the right depth.

Of all the things, now I need assistance to attach the dip-stick to the engine. One person below to see the bolt is aligned and one person above to manipulate the bolt.

Salim

salimshah

Reporting everything is fine.

Collateral damage:
Steering reservoir to pump hose. It was hard as a rock and when I lifted the engine, there was no give and the hose broke off. Purchased 12" long hose, but it was kinking pretty bad as there is sharp 90degree bend. Had to buy OEM.

Only 1 stud was seized in the exhaust, and took it out. Reamed new threads and bought a replacement stud and few nuts.

I was expecting some struggle top put things back, but the exhaust system was perfectly aligned.

Here is list of items that may be useful for other members:

Seal 90311-38020 [Transmission seal input shaft]
Seal 90311-95013 [Rear main]
Felpro 60461


Salim