perfctreig

On my SC400, the radio works but has multiple bulbs burnt out as well as nothing in the climate control area. In searching the interweb and the forum, there are many older links. Given that this is 2020, what would be the best option? Are there companies still providing radio service? Would I be best served dumping the factory stereo and getting a new head unit with Appe CarPlay?

- V -

iTrader: (1)

personally, i hate the look of all the aftermarket head units so i would stick with the stock one. If you have the knowhow, you can get the screen itself for a couple of dollars on amazon or ebay and solder it in place of the old one. There is a company called Tannin that does cluster and console lighting repair but they are pricey. As for blutooth, you can tap into the cd drive signal in the center console and run it to a relay that will allow you to switch between aux and cd. Then you can get a blutooth adapter, Kinivo BTC being my favorite, that will run off the cigarette power and allow you to have blutooth functionality with your phone. This is the set up that i got and with a little work you can hide all the wires so that the car basically looks stock.
relay costs abouy $7
another $2 or so for a basic on/off switch
$5 for some speaker wire
$2 or so for a headphone jack
$30-40 for Kinivo but others can be found cheaper.
That being said if you dont care about the stock look, just slap an aftermarket unit into it and call it a day

perfctreig

Thank you! I do like the look of stock and the use of the stock *****, which would be lost. I plan to use this as a weekend driver so don't need everything like in my 2017 Malibu. I'll contact Tannin. I purchased a gauge cluster needle kit from them for my '93. Haven't tackled that yet.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Tanin Auto Electronix As - V- mentioned can repair the climate screen LCD for you and, I think, the LCD in the stock radio as well.

As for the radio itself... I kept mine for a long time with added function by performing the DIY aux-in stereo jack modification on its panel behind the dash bezel and then adding an iSimple Tranzit BLU-HF bluetooth streaming module. All of it was hidden behind the main center console trim piece save one little button the unit came with.

It worked very well for handsfree phone use and bluetooth audio streaming from my cellphone.

I had to make sure my non-functioning factory trunk mounted CD changer would come up with a permanent “CD-ERR” message on the factory stereo when selecting “CD” but that is the only quirk.

Later I did decide I wanted to get an aftermarket stereo but after researching every double-din and single-din option I could find out about (the research took weeks) I was unsatisfied with all but a couple of them and finally zeroed in on only one:

A Continental CDD7418UB-ORK

https://www.vdo-gauges.com/audio/12v...ab-dmb-bt.html



It required a separate amplifier remote turn-on device (I used a small PAC TR-4) and in my case I hooked it up with a Beat Sonic SLA-10B stereo adapter which I am just now learning is probably discontinued but most people use the instructions in Raine’s DIY aftermarket stereo for SC300/400 guide anyway.

My reason came down to disliking the graphical interfaces on pretty much all the double-din head units I researched. They all operate like little in-car Windows PCs that have to boot up, they are not always the most intuitive to use and always have far more functions than I actually want on main menus that cannot be effectively modified at a software level.

So I wanted a very period-look 1990’s OEM-like single-din stereo that was new and which had modern features like Bluetooth.

The Continental (part of VDO) head unit fit the bill.

I later performed another (very involved and meticulous if you wish to) DIY to turn the now useless factory Lexus volume dial into a DC 12V port.

(This was needed in my case because I also had eliminated the factory 12V DC port by removing the entire ashtray assembly and replacing it with an Autoextrude panel housing three aftermarket instrument gauges.)

...

Apple Carplay and Android Auto are interesting features and I did research them a lot when they first came out and had not become available in all new cars or in most aftermarket stereo head units.

However ultimately a simple and reliable Bluetooth hands free system did 95% of what I wanted anyway. The only other thing I’d like to have had is a clean and simple dedicated GPS navigation screen. But I was not willing to get a double-din carplay head unit to do this.

I believe Alpine or Kenwood currently are the only double-din head vendors that offer true built-in Garmin GPS navigation. Both brands do make very good graphical 2-din head units. So does Pioneer.

Personally I preferred simple, classic with modern basic functions with traditional dials and buttons I can use without looking away from the road to use. My Continental head unit was not cheap but it’s very high quality from a factory parts supplier to many OEM automakers.

...

For GPS navigation, just as the picture in your main post shows, I use my cellphone in the same position or for long trips with a lot of pre-planned stops along a pre-planned route I use a standalone Garmin GPS which I keep updated with current map data.

The one Kenwood (I think) double din aftermarket head unit has this Garmin GPS and route planning capability built in at added cost but it is an expensive option overall.

Bimmerbill

After all the above great information and suggestions and you want to keep it stock, I saw a video a few months back on You Tube about a company you could send your stock radio to and they would repair it for I think $100. They included in their video instructions on how to remove the radio. Not sure how old the video was or if they are still in business. But now you have enough information to make that decision.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Got a link handy to that write-up?

That Continental head unit looks quite good for the purpose. Does it allow the illumination to be modified to match the interior?

I love the features of my double DIN Kenwood DNX692 -- very simple interface designed to not be a distraction while driving -- but that 20 second boot-up truly is aggravating. I added a backup camera, and it's worthless because I'm down the driveway or out of a parking lot before the system is booted to view it. It's like waiting at an extra red light any time you want to go anywhere.

- V -

iTrader: (1)

Dude i never even considered bootup time as a factor. That would drive me crazy, what the hell lol

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

It it were an advertised feature, few of the new head units would ever sell. I think most people just put up with it after the fact. I bought my Kenwood lightly used for like $100 or $120 ($800+ new, as I recall), otherwise I wouldn't have even given it a chance, knowing in advance about the boot-up times.

The other big issue is glare. I can't see the screen half the time. The SC's console slope is probably a big part of that.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Regarding the boot-up time of many contemporary 2-DIN screen type head units-- this was definitely a factor in my decision not to go with one but it was not the highest on the list. My main reasoning had to do with the GUI interfaces themselves not really being capable of modification to the exact look I wanted (think 80's and early 90's era 16-bit simplistic computer touchscreen menus) and even more than that I just do not prefer to have to look away from the road to see what my fingers are touching to change the sound system volume, skip a track, change the input source, etc.

Granted the function buttons on my Continental are fairly small but you can get used to which ones you are touching by feel alone with practice. The dials are a perfect size however.

.....

t2d2, the illumination color is set fro the factory. If you order the Continental branded head units you get a kind of amber yellow-orange backlit LCD and if you order the VDO branded version of the same equivalent head unit (carrying a different part number but otherwise totally the same thing apart from the brand name and LCD color) you will get a blue with very very slight green hint color backlit LCD. You can adjust the brightness in either case.

And VDO/Continental has several different models within their aftermarket 1-DIN radio lineup. Some have built-in CD player decks and some do not. Some have built-in Bluetooth and some do not. Since these are world type head units that are compatible with North American AM/FM radio frequencies you get a little more adjustability than normal when tuning to a station and you also get DAB or DAB+ functionality on some of them. Mine has DAB+ function but of course it's useless in North America. No matter though as it's a very good design.

This is the type of head unit you buy if you actually want a vintage and clean OEM-like 80's/90's appearance and very clear and easy to use physical buttons (that do not look like a carnival just arrived in your dashboard) with just the most basic modern functions: aux in audio capability, CD player if you need or want it, Bluetooth audio streaming and Bluetooth handsfree telephone system both of which work seamlessly and reliably, more than enough memory preset functions, in-menu adjustments to some features, etc.

....

I do believe I looked up the Kenwood DNX692 that you have and considered it. Back to the point about boot-up time this, for me, was a factor but not so much on cold starts since I always let my engine oil temperature and oil pressure get to a minimum acceptable level before first driving from full cold. It's when the engine is warm and hasn't been parked for long before starting up again with nearly full engine temperature that the boot time might get annoying.

And I actually do have situations when I wish I had simple and easy to use rear facing AND front facing cameras on my SC. If I ever install those functions it may be with a separate and very small 4:3 screen somewhere else. Currently I've earmarked an aftermarket Gentex rear view mirror with a build in 4:3 screen for reverse camera function whenever I get around to that project.

....

The modification to my OEM SC volume dial to turn it into a 12V DC charge port did not come from a writeup. Actually I never made a writeup for it because it was a figure it out as I went project and it took so much trial and error with my Dremel, constantly test fitting and a lot of circuit trace testing with my multimeter after I VERY carefully measured exactly how much of the built in circuit board to cut off to make room for the marine 12V DC receptacle I used. I also de-soldered a couple of components on that lower area of the circuit board and wasn't trying to be careful that I did not affect any function of the very crucial backlighting circuitry or HVAC temperature dial.

I can pull out the finished product and talk about it a bit in another thread but the main reason why I didn't make a writeup for it other than all the trial and error was that it was difficult to say just how much or this or that to cut off and it does come down to the need to be a bit handy with de-soldering some electronic components and double-checking with the multimeter to make absolutely sure that nothing in the backlighting circuit or temperature dial functions have been affected.

Some of the cuts I made with my variable speed Dremel's cutoff wheel onto that circuit board were VERY tight and close to circuit traces that I did not want to hit by accident. If I had then I'd need to resort to repairing any damaged circuit with wire trace repairs.

There isn't a lot going on with that circuit board but I just caution anyone trying this to take it slow and go a little at a time.

Just in case I might have screwed it up I bought a spare full volume and HVAC dial assembly off ebay. This was never needed though.

I was able to contain all of my modifications to just the one OEM dial assembly. I needed no permanent modifications to the main center console bezel to achieve that modification. Thus I can always take the spare assembly I have and swap it in to go completely back to stock.

It was just a really tedious project to do. The main reason I did it was because I gave up my main 12V DC port when I swapped out my ashtray bezel for a 3x 52mm gauge panel bezel for engine monitoring gauges.

t2d2, remind me later and I'll go into detail about it further in another thread.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

That's why I only considered touch screen models that had a physical volume ****, which eliminated the vast majority of candidates. I didn't really list lack of animated graphics as a criteria, figuring I would just have to deal with that, but got lucky with the higher end Kenwood having none of that nonsense. It's interface might be described as similar to an ATM.

Too bad they didn't build in a bit more versatility there, as a good, old school OEM-ish replacement, it only makes sense to match existing lighting setups. Cheap single DINs nowadays have nearly unlimited color options...

Gotcha. I was just curious if you had a write-up I hadn't seen, as I didn't find anything detailed when I was doing similar modifications on my volume ****. Like you, it was trial and error, and I don't really remember what all I ended up doing... Mine was just disassembly to allow a bluetooth mic wire to pass through, but I'd like to eventually make it a cleaner integration or maybe build a subwoofer gain **** in.

perfctreig

Whew! I think for now I'll use the cassette adapter and plug into my phone.

Thank you all for the replies!

tegwj

Hi --

I just bought my '99 SC400 and want to keep it stock, not cut any wires, etc.

I've seen the various Toyota style bluetooth interfaces from Crutchfield, ebay, and Amazon that all use the 12-pin CD changer plug, but none of them list the 97-00 SC400 as compatible.

My car has the Nak upgrade and I'm not too worried about being able to switch between the changer and Bluetooth, but I do want to ensure everything stock is preserved.

Can I just buy something like this even though it doesn't show compatibility?

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-pasDAG...Interface.html

Many thanks!

- V -

iTrader: (1)

Now that is interesting. I didn't see one like that before. That would plug into the back of the head unit but i honestly can't tell if the plug is the same as on our cars. They are also different depending on the years. My 99 with a nak had a different plugs on the back than the earlier year nak units. Another thing is you will lose your cd changer using this method.

tegwj

Yeah I'm fine with losing the CD changer, obviously that interface needs to mimic whatever signaling the head unit expects to believe the changer is "on" but the basic logic for that shouldn't be too difficult. My #1 issue is simply not wanting to cut (or splice/tap) any wiring.

Short of buying one of those adapters and trying it out, I'm not sure how else to get a definitive answer unless somebody else has already tried it.

UPDATE: here's the link to the product manual for that CRUX-BTS-TY1 adapter I posted before: https://www.cruxinterfacing.com/wp-c...NUAL-BT5.0.pdf

Obviously confirming the connector matches the SC's Nak head unit is one thing, but then confirming the electrical compatibility is also key.

- V -

iTrader: (1)

voltage wouldn't really be an issue. I would be shocked if that ran on anything other than 12 volts. Your main issue is going to be confirming the connector pinout which is going to be a bigger pain than splicing wires. First you would need to find the pinout for that particular unit then the pinout for your own headunit. This is assuming the connector shape is the same as your unit which I don't remember if it is. I would be inclined to say it won't be plug and play since the cars on the compatibility list are all 98 or newer and even though yours is a 99, the unit itself isn't shared in any of the other vehicles listed

To do the DIY tap method, you just need to either cut and redirect the 4 wires going to your head unit from the cd changer or if you want to be able to switch between Bluetooth/aux and cd changer, put in a 12v 4 pole 2 way relay between the cd changer and headunit. Doing the relay will also require you to tap into your cigarette lighter in order to give your relay power and add an on off switch. This way you can use the switch to swap between cd player and console. The relay uses screws to attach the cables and you can use crimps to connect some longer cables from the harness to give you space to work. The only soldering you'll be doing is getting the 12v power from your cigarette lighter and adding a female aux port. Then all you gotta do is grab a CD and put it upside down in one of the cd slots. Your head unit will then read ERR every time you got to that cd and give you dead silence to play your tunes over bluetooth