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My wiring harness seems to be a little different than what most forums cover, can anyone help me out? Here is a pick of the plug, I can seem to figure out what I need to do to bypass the NSS. It’s not melted, just covered with electric grease.
The second picture Boergy posted shows the N1 connector with the reverse wiring (for your reverse lights to work).. Its' showing pin 4 and I believe 9,
Turn your plug over to make sure the plug correlates to what you have and try to verify wire colors
The second picture Boergy posted shows the N1 connector with the reverse wiring (for your reverse lights to work).. Its' showing pin 4 and I believe 9,
Turn your plug over to make sure the plug correlates to what you have and try to verify wire colors
HEY I have a 97 sc300 that when I look at the connector I don't have black/black white and it looks different
HEY I have a 97 sc300 that when I look at the connector I don't have black/black white and it looks different
Are you looking at the correct N1 plug?
Looking at the wiring diagram, both the M/T and A/T clutch start switch or neutral start switch are black and black/white. But the A/T car uses the N1 plug which I pictured, but the M/T uses the C23 plug pins 2 and 1. You can see these are different plugs depending on the original chassis transmission. The reverse lights would be yellow (pin 9) and red-blue (pin 4) on the N1 plug for an auto car. On the manual cars, the back-up light switch has a different plug shown below, B6 Gray with pins 1/2.
Looking at the wiring diagram, both the M/T and A/T clutch start switch or neutral start switch are black and black/white. But the A/T car uses the N1 plug which I pictured, but the M/T uses the C23 plug pins 2 and 1. You can see these are different plugs depending on the original chassis transmission. The reverse lights would be yellow (pin 9) and red-blue (pin 4) on the N1 plug for an auto car. On the manual cars, the back-up light switch has a different plug shown below, B6 Gray with pins 1/2.
I'm gonna try to explain it the best I can because I'm not expert, my plug that used to plug into the auto control module looks like the one listed in the picture, I have a 97 sc300 with no crank no fuel pump at the key with the neutral safety jumped on my connector it's black white to black white and it shows up for park but only when the key is in the Start position not in on on poison where lights come one only when I try to crank in again it looks like the one in the first picture witch is different because it also has those other pins it isn't the gray 1 plug I'm trying to figure it out because I bypassed all of it with a starter button but it's idling about 15o above so I'm thinking it's confused as to what gear it's in also when I plug the auto module in it will start same idle issue but no gauge lights for some reason. It's a problem I have been fighting for literally 2 years any clarification would be super helpful.
on my gs300 it was a P1 connector; but I am curious if you could take photos of your connector here and show it. As the wiring above does look correct for the N1 connector on the SC300.
This is it my auto trans connector I checked the whoke loom and it's the only gray connector it also looks like ops picture except I have different wires and my key doest make it crank when I have it showing neutral again only when I try to crank at resting key on no ilumination. Lmk it's been years I will pay good money for the correct answer hahahaa
01-09-21, 08:46 PM
97 manual swap NSS bypass
