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Here's what I was talking about with the engine side coil connector - when you moved/jiggled the 12v positive line it would cut out to 0v so I soldered them back together.
I got video of the misfire with a bulb inline plug connector - this light pattern is not normal I take it? The post after this shows the light pattern before I resoldered the wire. After that post is cyl #2 for reference doing the same thing.
Looked through the thread and it looks like the cylinder with the clean piston top is your issue. It is common for tops of pistons to look black, especially high mileage engines. A really clean piston top is an indication of coolant steam cleaning the piston top.
Hi 1lexusguy - not saying that's not it but coolant levels haven't changed, no smoke in exhaust and no bubbling in the reservoir. - fill line in the reservoir is at the same level and the radiator fluid level is right at the top you can stick your finger in it. edit - sorry it was cyl #1 in that picture but I think it's since fouled up like the others. I'd have to take the plug out to double check. Cyl #5 is running hotter than the others on the manifold and where this whoosing should is coming from in that area.
I'm now suspecting it's a valve on #5 that's stuck or maybe there's just a vacuum leak in the cover in that area?
Originally Posted by 1lexusguy
Looked through the thread and it looks like the cylinder with the clean piston top is your issue. It is common for tops of pistons to look black, especially high mileage engines. A really clean piston top is an indication of coolant steam cleaning the piston top.
Also, if that 12v positive wire has been loose like that for a long time how has the car been running? Can the car run with a loss of 12v to the coil?
Also is the light on the tester triggered by the voltage coming from the coil meaning that the coin or ignition is messed up? or does it only light once there's detonation?
today I checked the distributor (put engine at TDC and lined up rotor to #1) - no leaks - no cracks that I can see from outside. there's a nick on part of the plastic on the inside of the dizzy?
there's a piece of plastic chipped off at the top don't know if that's something
There should be a metal piece sticking out of the plastic which looks like it is the crank sensor magnetic pickup (can't see the cam sensor pickups in that pic but might be broken also).
It is broken off completely in that picture, you are missing more than a plastic piece.
You can see the lower half of the metal piece is still in the plastic, but the shiny uneven part is where it snapped off.
So looks like you may have found the issue, you need a new distributor, that is not repairable either.
Just got a new dizzy com parts store same issue. Still misfiring. Oil smells like gas around the gear.
The old distributor had plastic coating around the contacts so they aren't actually missing.
The engine coolant temperature sensor code popped up again?? Wtf is going on
At least youve narrowed down your problem to a spark problem. Change the distrbutor and the coil, check the wiring, then its an ECU sending bad signals.
Summary:
-ECT code is back again after a new ECT sensor ??
-Plug #5 has oil on the plug tip and it was gritty, inside the cylinder looks strange as well
-The old distributor just had plastic covering the metal caps so should I return it and just reuse the old one?
-Compression is maybe normal and I'm a bad diagnostician -
@Scsexy - Plugs, wires, coil, cap, and now distributor are all new.
I did not do compression checks the first time around correctly - I only cranked 3 times. Now I cranked 6 times on 1,2, 5 and 6 and guess what - 180s!
This was done with a WARM ENGINE. I'm going to recheck in a couple hours when it's cooled down.
03-28-21, 03:22 PM
