Modding
07-23-21, 02:42 PM
#1
10th Gear
Thread Starter
Modding
Hey everyone, I have been wanting to start modding my car for a while now. It's a 95 sc300, I have a little muffler swap and I'm gonna do brakes, suspension and wheels pretty soon, but I want more power too. I have a read a ton of forums and they all kinda say the same things like just go ***** deep and buy a turbo and don't bother with bolt-ons. I do plan on go na-t at some point but I don't have 3k and I don't even know where I would begin on doing that. So for now (next 2-3 years) I would like to stay na but still get some good power. What do you guys think I should do? Would headers, AEM, intake and cams get me anywhere?
(Power goals na are around 300-400)
(Power goals na are around 300-400)
Last edited by shwag; 07-23-21 at 02:44 PM. Reason: Forgot something
07-24-21, 04:03 AM
#2
You will not get anywhere close to 300-400hp while naturally aspirated with a 2JZ-GE. Well, you could spend $20k+ or so with every single custom trick in the book and maybe... maybe... make 300whp on E85 or VP100 race fuel... but it's several times in excess of the easily achievable amount of horsepower you can get with an NA-T'd 2JZ-GE.
Sorry to say but the 2JZ-GE isn't really an engine you make big power with sans a turbocharger. These engines were designed with forced induction in mind from the very start. The naturally aspirated 2JZ engines are really just cost-reduced and complexity-reduced lower power and easier to maintain (due to less overall complexity) versions of the turbocharged editions.
You can get a little power from an aftermarket header, aftermarket cam gears, a little adjustment of the distributor, "cold" air intake etc. but it will not be very much over stock.
When my SC300 was still naturally aspirated for the first eight years of owning it I focused on the rest of my car.
While on a budget that does not allow for you to convert your stock engine to an NA-T I recommend you focus on all other areas of the car for performance:
--Upgrade your front brake calipers and discs to 1995-2000 LS400 units
--Upgrade to a 17" or 18" wheel (but no larger in diameter) that clears those front calipers and gives you more width in the rear for wider tires (255's at least with 275's being the very widest I would go while NA)
--Replace the steering rack bushings with Figs polyurethane units if they are worn
--Replace the front Lower Control Arms if they are loose/worn or if the non-serviceable ball joints have gone bad or are about to go bad
--Upgrade the suspension with a decent coilover that has respected reviews for SC's but which isn't in the extremely high money-no-object range.
--Good higher performance tires with good rain traction
--Upgrade the front headlights to PnP HIDs or a good LED kit that gets good reviews. I prefer and use XenonDepot's Phillips HID kit but there are many others. Also use a 3M headlight restoring kit with the included wipe-on clear coat ($35 or so).
--Rear sway bar upgrade with a Daizen unit or a Supra 93-96 TT MKIV rear swaybar (22mm) with MKIV Supra rear subframe mounts. The latter may be getting harder to find now. A Whiteline rear sway bar may also be an option but I am not sure. Anything thicker in diameter than 22mm with the MKIV style mounting points will be getting on the aggressive side for the street. 22mm diameter is fine as an upgrade.
--Personal preference but pick good tires with good rain traction reviews in other RWD performance cars. This is important with an SC.
--Also personal preference: if you do a lot of aggressive cornering you may not like the factory seats which are very comfortable but lack side bolstering as they are intended and designed to be more suited to cruising rather than canyon carving.
--Stock stereo aux-in mod + any aftermarket Bluetooth audio module that you prefer.
--This is a big one but if you're interested in a manual transmission swap you can consider that. This is something that will really change the character of an SC even if it is naturally aspirated with a completely stock engine. No, it will not add any power and no the car won't suddenly be super fast with *just* a manual transmission but it does have less drivetrain losses than the automatic transmission does (thus putting slightly more power to the wheels) and it greatly increases the driver engagement aspect and fun factor. You can get a W58 5-speed from an SC300 or MKIV Supra non-turbo but if you plan to go turbo later on anyway I recommend an R154, converted R150, converted Solstice/Sky AR-5, or Nissan CD009 6-speed. Far outside of a tight budget there is the Tremec Magnum 6-speed but you likely won't need that kind of power holding capability. The Toyota Supra V160/161 are far beyond worth considering today given their cost and discontinuation of some of the internal replacement parts.
--As a very last thing to consider you can also look into a limited slip differential. Many 2-way options are available and three 1.5-way options exist: a rare used Torsen LSD from an MKIV, Soarer or Aristo... or a Kaaz 1.5-way aftermarket unit... or an OS Giken 1.5-way aftermarket unit. The last one is the most expensive, the middle one is the easiest to get while the used Torsen is sometimes (but not always) more affordable but very hard to come across for sale. In all cases while you're naturally aspirated it's better to stay with your 4.272:1 stock final drive ratio or a 4.083:1 FD.
With your muffler upgrade you've already covered that aspect.
Believe it or not all of the above things that I have suggested are things that you will want to have in place when you finally do have turbocharged power. The exception would be the final drive ratio. 4.272 or 4.083 are very good for naturally aspirated SC300's but with a turbo you'd want at least a 3.916 (from a 92-97 SC400) or a 3.76 (from an MKIV TT Auto or Aristo TT).
You can do a lot to change the character of your SC as a driving machine with the above suggestions well before it's time to get into turbocharging. Hope this helps.
Sorry to say but the 2JZ-GE isn't really an engine you make big power with sans a turbocharger. These engines were designed with forced induction in mind from the very start. The naturally aspirated 2JZ engines are really just cost-reduced and complexity-reduced lower power and easier to maintain (due to less overall complexity) versions of the turbocharged editions.
You can get a little power from an aftermarket header, aftermarket cam gears, a little adjustment of the distributor, "cold" air intake etc. but it will not be very much over stock.
When my SC300 was still naturally aspirated for the first eight years of owning it I focused on the rest of my car.
While on a budget that does not allow for you to convert your stock engine to an NA-T I recommend you focus on all other areas of the car for performance:
--Upgrade your front brake calipers and discs to 1995-2000 LS400 units
--Upgrade to a 17" or 18" wheel (but no larger in diameter) that clears those front calipers and gives you more width in the rear for wider tires (255's at least with 275's being the very widest I would go while NA)
--Replace the steering rack bushings with Figs polyurethane units if they are worn
--Replace the front Lower Control Arms if they are loose/worn or if the non-serviceable ball joints have gone bad or are about to go bad
--Upgrade the suspension with a decent coilover that has respected reviews for SC's but which isn't in the extremely high money-no-object range.
--Good higher performance tires with good rain traction
--Upgrade the front headlights to PnP HIDs or a good LED kit that gets good reviews. I prefer and use XenonDepot's Phillips HID kit but there are many others. Also use a 3M headlight restoring kit with the included wipe-on clear coat ($35 or so).
--Rear sway bar upgrade with a Daizen unit or a Supra 93-96 TT MKIV rear swaybar (22mm) with MKIV Supra rear subframe mounts. The latter may be getting harder to find now. A Whiteline rear sway bar may also be an option but I am not sure. Anything thicker in diameter than 22mm with the MKIV style mounting points will be getting on the aggressive side for the street. 22mm diameter is fine as an upgrade.
--Personal preference but pick good tires with good rain traction reviews in other RWD performance cars. This is important with an SC.
--Also personal preference: if you do a lot of aggressive cornering you may not like the factory seats which are very comfortable but lack side bolstering as they are intended and designed to be more suited to cruising rather than canyon carving.
--Stock stereo aux-in mod + any aftermarket Bluetooth audio module that you prefer.
--This is a big one but if you're interested in a manual transmission swap you can consider that. This is something that will really change the character of an SC even if it is naturally aspirated with a completely stock engine. No, it will not add any power and no the car won't suddenly be super fast with *just* a manual transmission but it does have less drivetrain losses than the automatic transmission does (thus putting slightly more power to the wheels) and it greatly increases the driver engagement aspect and fun factor. You can get a W58 5-speed from an SC300 or MKIV Supra non-turbo but if you plan to go turbo later on anyway I recommend an R154, converted R150, converted Solstice/Sky AR-5, or Nissan CD009 6-speed. Far outside of a tight budget there is the Tremec Magnum 6-speed but you likely won't need that kind of power holding capability. The Toyota Supra V160/161 are far beyond worth considering today given their cost and discontinuation of some of the internal replacement parts.
--As a very last thing to consider you can also look into a limited slip differential. Many 2-way options are available and three 1.5-way options exist: a rare used Torsen LSD from an MKIV, Soarer or Aristo... or a Kaaz 1.5-way aftermarket unit... or an OS Giken 1.5-way aftermarket unit. The last one is the most expensive, the middle one is the easiest to get while the used Torsen is sometimes (but not always) more affordable but very hard to come across for sale. In all cases while you're naturally aspirated it's better to stay with your 4.272:1 stock final drive ratio or a 4.083:1 FD.
With your muffler upgrade you've already covered that aspect.
Believe it or not all of the above things that I have suggested are things that you will want to have in place when you finally do have turbocharged power. The exception would be the final drive ratio. 4.272 or 4.083 are very good for naturally aspirated SC300's but with a turbo you'd want at least a 3.916 (from a 92-97 SC400) or a 3.76 (from an MKIV TT Auto or Aristo TT).
You can do a lot to change the character of your SC as a driving machine with the above suggestions well before it's time to get into turbocharging. Hope this helps.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 07-25-21 at 12:58 AM. Reason: Typo corrections
The following 3 users liked this post by KahnBB6:
07-24-21, 05:17 AM
#3
10th Gear
Thread Starter
You will not get anywhere close to 300-400hp while naturally aspirated with a 2JZ-GE. Well, you could spend $20k+ or so with every single custom trick in the book and maybe... maybe... make 300whp on E85 or VP100 race fuel... but it's several times in excess of the easily achievable amount of horsepower you can get with an NA-T'd 2JZ-GE.
Sorry to say but the 2JZ-GE isn't really an engine you make big power with sans a turbocharger. These engines were designed with forced induction in mind from the very start. The naturally aspirated 2JZ engines are really just cost-reduced and complexity-reduced lower power and easier to maintain (due to less overall complexity) versions of the turbocharged versions.
You can get a little power from an aftermarket header, aftermarket cam gears, a little adjustment of the distributor, "cold" air intake etc. but it will not be very much over stock.
When my SC300 was still naturally aspired for the first eight years of owning it I focused on the rest of my car.
While on a budget that does not allow for you to convert your stock engine to an NA-T I recommend you focus on all other areas of the car for performance:
--Upgrade your front brake calipers and discs to 1995-2000 LS400 units
--Upgrade to a 17" or 18" wheel (but no larger in diameter) that clears those front calipers and gives you more width in the rear for wider tires (255's at least with 275's being the very widest I would go while NA)
--Replace the steering rack bushings with Figs polyurethane units if they are worn
--Upgrade the suspension with a decent coilover that has respected reviews for SC's but which isn't in the extremely high money-no-object range.
--Good higher performance tires with good rain traction
--Upgrade the front headlights to PnP HIDs or a good LED kit that gets good reviews. I prefer and use XenonDepot's Phillips HID kit but there are many others. Also use a 3M headlight restoring kit with the included wipe-on clear coat ($35 or so).
--Rear sway bar upgrade with a Daizen unit or a Supra 93-96 TT MKIV rear swaybar (22mm) with MKIV Supra rear subframe mounts. The latter may be getting harder to find now. A Whiteline rear sway bar may also be an option but I am not sure. Anything thicker in diameter than 22mm with the MKIV style mounting points will be getting on the aggressive side for the street. 22mm diameter is fine as an upgrade.
--Personal preference but pick good tires with good rain traction reviews in other RWD performance cars. This is important with an SC.
--Also personal preference: if you do a lot of aggressive cornering you may not like the factory seats which are very comfortable but lack side bolstering as they are intended and designed to be more suited to cruising rather than canyon carving.
--Stock stereo aux-in mod + any aftermarket Bluetooth audio module that you prefer.
--This is a big one but if you're interested in a manual transmission swap you can consider that. This is something that will really change the character of an SC even if it is naturally aspirated with a completely stock engine. No, it will not add any power and no the car won't suddenly be super fast with *just* a manual transmission but it does have less drivetrain losses than the automatic transmission does (thus putting slightly more power to the wheels) and it greatly increases the driver engagement aspect and fun factor. You can get a W58 5-speed from an SC300 or MKIV Supra non-turbo but if you plan to go turbo later on anyway I recommend an R154, converted R150, converted Solstice/Sky AR-5, or Nissan CD009 6-speed. Far outside of a tight budget there is the Tremec Magnum 6-speed but you likely won't need that kind of power holding capability. The Toyota Supra V160/161 are far beyond worth considering today given their cost and discontinuation of some of the internal replacement parts.
--As a very last thing to consider you can also look into a limited slip differential. Many 2-way options are available and three 1.5-way options exist: a rare used Torsen LSD from an MKIV, Soarer or Aristo... or a Kaaz 1.5-way aftermarket unit... or an OS Giken 1.5-way aftermarket unit. The last one is the most expensive, the middle one is the easiest to get while the used Torsen is sometimes (but not always) more affordable but very hard to come across for sale. In all cases while you're naturally aspirated it's better to stay with your 4.272:1 stock final drive ratio or a 4.083:1 FD.
With your muffler upgrade you've already covered that aspect.
Believe it or not all of the above things that I have suggested are things that you will want to have in place when you finally do have turbocharged power. The exception would be the final drive ratio. 4.272 or 4.083 are very good for naturally aspirated SC300's but with a turbo you'd want at least a 3.916 (from a 92-97 SC400) or a 3.76 (from an MKIV TT Auto or Aristo TT).
You can do a lot to change the character of your SC as a driving machine with the above suggestions well before it's time to get into turbocharging. Hope this helps.
Sorry to say but the 2JZ-GE isn't really an engine you make big power with sans a turbocharger. These engines were designed with forced induction in mind from the very start. The naturally aspirated 2JZ engines are really just cost-reduced and complexity-reduced lower power and easier to maintain (due to less overall complexity) versions of the turbocharged versions.
You can get a little power from an aftermarket header, aftermarket cam gears, a little adjustment of the distributor, "cold" air intake etc. but it will not be very much over stock.
When my SC300 was still naturally aspired for the first eight years of owning it I focused on the rest of my car.
While on a budget that does not allow for you to convert your stock engine to an NA-T I recommend you focus on all other areas of the car for performance:
--Upgrade your front brake calipers and discs to 1995-2000 LS400 units
--Upgrade to a 17" or 18" wheel (but no larger in diameter) that clears those front calipers and gives you more width in the rear for wider tires (255's at least with 275's being the very widest I would go while NA)
--Replace the steering rack bushings with Figs polyurethane units if they are worn
--Upgrade the suspension with a decent coilover that has respected reviews for SC's but which isn't in the extremely high money-no-object range.
--Good higher performance tires with good rain traction
--Upgrade the front headlights to PnP HIDs or a good LED kit that gets good reviews. I prefer and use XenonDepot's Phillips HID kit but there are many others. Also use a 3M headlight restoring kit with the included wipe-on clear coat ($35 or so).
--Rear sway bar upgrade with a Daizen unit or a Supra 93-96 TT MKIV rear swaybar (22mm) with MKIV Supra rear subframe mounts. The latter may be getting harder to find now. A Whiteline rear sway bar may also be an option but I am not sure. Anything thicker in diameter than 22mm with the MKIV style mounting points will be getting on the aggressive side for the street. 22mm diameter is fine as an upgrade.
--Personal preference but pick good tires with good rain traction reviews in other RWD performance cars. This is important with an SC.
--Also personal preference: if you do a lot of aggressive cornering you may not like the factory seats which are very comfortable but lack side bolstering as they are intended and designed to be more suited to cruising rather than canyon carving.
--Stock stereo aux-in mod + any aftermarket Bluetooth audio module that you prefer.
--This is a big one but if you're interested in a manual transmission swap you can consider that. This is something that will really change the character of an SC even if it is naturally aspirated with a completely stock engine. No, it will not add any power and no the car won't suddenly be super fast with *just* a manual transmission but it does have less drivetrain losses than the automatic transmission does (thus putting slightly more power to the wheels) and it greatly increases the driver engagement aspect and fun factor. You can get a W58 5-speed from an SC300 or MKIV Supra non-turbo but if you plan to go turbo later on anyway I recommend an R154, converted R150, converted Solstice/Sky AR-5, or Nissan CD009 6-speed. Far outside of a tight budget there is the Tremec Magnum 6-speed but you likely won't need that kind of power holding capability. The Toyota Supra V160/161 are far beyond worth considering today given their cost and discontinuation of some of the internal replacement parts.
--As a very last thing to consider you can also look into a limited slip differential. Many 2-way options are available and three 1.5-way options exist: a rare used Torsen LSD from an MKIV, Soarer or Aristo... or a Kaaz 1.5-way aftermarket unit... or an OS Giken 1.5-way aftermarket unit. The last one is the most expensive, the middle one is the easiest to get while the used Torsen is sometimes (but not always) more affordable but very hard to come across for sale. In all cases while you're naturally aspirated it's better to stay with your 4.272:1 stock final drive ratio or a 4.083:1 FD.
With your muffler upgrade you've already covered that aspect.
Believe it or not all of the above things that I have suggested are things that you will want to have in place when you finally do have turbocharged power. The exception would be the final drive ratio. 4.272 or 4.083 are very good for naturally aspirated SC300's but with a turbo you'd want at least a 3.916 (from a 92-97 SC400) or a 3.76 (from an MKIV TT Auto or Aristo TT).
You can do a lot to change the character of your SC as a driving machine with the above suggestions well before it's time to get into turbocharging. Hope this helps.
07-25-21, 01:51 AM
#4
With NA-T as your goal the engine itself should be left alone for now other than maintenance. However there are several things to acquire and have ready on standby to allow you to do the actual turbo conversion... which honestly is easier the first time as an engine-out procedure.
You can do the hardest prep jobs now or put them off until later. Everything listed below is recommended tp be done with the engine removed from the SC with a 2-ton engine crane and mounted on a V-stand:
--Get a quality compression tester (NOT one from Harbor Freight. Get one that you can fully remove from the spark plug holes with a socket tool). It is advisable to do a full compression test and leak-down test in each cylinder to make sure you have healthy compression all around. What mileage does your SC300 currently have? Anything over 200k might be totally fine to throw boost at but doing those tests first should be a priority to determine engine health first.
--With the engine removed from the car the lower and upper oil pans have to be completely removed to have the oil drain area fully drilled out, smoothed and the stud areas tapped for threads. All of that is un-machined from the factory on all 2JZ-GE's but otherwise present on the upper oil pans. Prep all of that and you can use a block-off fitting on your newly installed turbo oil drain neck. Then follow the engine TSRM and re-seal everything the way it tells you to with FIPG. And don't forget the internal O-ring for the oil pickup that MUST be installed before the upper oil pan goes back on. Check the lower oil pan's edges for straightness and if any of it is bent it will either have to be made true again or replaced with a new lower pan for an SC/MKIV/Soarer.
--Buy an IS300 "Union Bolt" 90401-19008. This will be used to replace your stock Union Bolt on the oil filter elbow/housing under the intake manifold. It has a 1/8 BSPT threaded hole that will need to be adapted to a 1/8" NPT thread. This is what most people use for their NA-T main oil feed. For the time being with no turbo you can use it with an oil pressure gauge sender if you wish or you can just use an NPT plug there.
--Next, it will help to upgrade the oil pump to the 1996+ GE and GE VVT-i oil pump which has a factory location for a crank sensor. The correct crank gear with the correct number of teeth is also important. I'm fuzzy on which one specifically is recommended per NA-T application but the info is here if you search the big NA-T advice threads.
--Next is something that is more ideally done when it is actually time to lower the compression ratio for turbocharging since the 2JZ-GE is most efficient at its stock 10.0:1 compression but nonetheless for NA-T the #1 choice to lower the compression appropriately is to buy an OEM 2JZ-GTE Multi-Layer-Steel head gasket which will drop that compression ratio to an ideal 9.2:1. Use ARP head studs with OEM head stud washers and buy the correct thin wall socket to install them with a good quality well calibrated torque wrench capable of up to 100 ft-lbs (you won't go that high but you'll need 80ft-lbs for the head studs) such as a CDI model.
--Finally pick up a JDM Aristo 2JZ-GTE Non-VVT-i ECU and start reading threads here on how to plan ahead for what it will need to work with your SC. A distributor top "delete" kit can also be used in addition to COP conversion with this ECU which is good up to about 500whp before it cannot adjust any further.
--The stock 330cc GE injectors are not good enough for turbo duty. The rule of thumb is 1cc = 1hp. An easy drop-in solution are re-balanced and sonic cleaned 440cc OEM injectors from a JDM 2JZ-GTE engine. The stock SC300 FPR may also need changing but I am not sure offhand. DIY threads will cover that detail also.
--The stock GE automatic transmission isn't known to handle big power. Not in the same way that one from a Supra TT (auto), Aristo TT (all auto) or Soarer automatic will. You'll need to look into an upgraded A-series 4-speed automatic transmission or a manual transmission.
--The stock internals of your 1995 2JZ-GE engine are good as-is to about 500whp maximum before you need to start building it stronger. So if you stay under that ceiling you will have a happy and trouble-free totally stock internal engine. Technically the GE pistons (just as strong as GTE pistons but higher compression) are good to 700whp maximum but the stock rods need stronger ARP bolts to match the level of the stock pistons. Until you get into a VERY serious and expensive engine build these horsepower ceilings shouldn't be an issue in a basic level NA-T engine build.
Now, that covers all the major engine prep work for turbo. A new water pump, new thermostat, new timing belt and associated components and various other service items should all be things that you do as well.
.....
You will also need more fuel for turbo duty. The Denso #950-0109 is the Supra TT USDM/Export high capacity fuel pump that will meet his need. To install it you will need to run a separate 30A fused 10-gauge power wire from the engine bay through the firewall along the lower door sill and up into the rear seat area where the factory GE Fuel ECU resides. Either in the engine bay or right there at the Fuel ECU you will need to put a relay which is triggered on and off by the stock Fuel ECU (called the 12V Fuel Mod w/Relay). What this will do is allow the safety of the stock fuel control and cutoff by the main ECU and Fuel ECU but instead of varying the power between 9V and 12V it will just trigger 12V power all the time to the Denso fuel pump.
If you look in my build thread I have a section there with pictures and info on how to install the Denso TT pump and this setup. Later in my thread I also show how to build compact fuse and relay boxes in the engine bay with various kit parts from Littelfuse.
.....
This is a long answer to your question but as you can see there is a considerable amount of prep work to do even before you have bought a turbocharger, turbo exhaust manifold, intercooler and piping, etc.
This is why I suggest checking out your 2JZ-GE engine's compression numbers first, researching and gathering parts as you can and why I recommend that you mostly focus on prepping the brakes, suspension, etc. for the power you'll have later on.
Also by the time you finally do get into NA-T boost it is recommended that you have some kind of LSD installed by then. At the very least you will notice that more steering correction input will be needed in all situations when you have 300-400hp or more under your foot in these cars if the rear end is still controlled with an open differential.
07-27-21, 01:09 PM
#5
10th Gear
Thread Starter
If you plan to build for an NA-T setup over the long term I recommend going through the list above to prep the rest of you chassis before you add significant power. Yes every little thing does add up but all of those things have a purpose in the big picture and help with control of that power.
With NA-T as your goal the engine itself should be left alone for now other than maintenance. However there are several things to acquire and have ready on standby to allow you to do the actual turbo conversion... which honestly is easier the first time as an engine-out procedure.
You can do the hardest prep jobs now or put them off until later. Everything listed below is recommended tp be done with the engine removed from the SC with a 2-ton engine crane and mounted on a V-stand:
--Get a quality compression tester (NOT one from Harbor Freight. Get one that you can fully remove from the spark plug holes with a socket tool). It is advisable to do a full compression test and leak-down test in each cylinder to make sure you have healthy compression all around. What mileage does your SC300 currently have? Anything over 200k might be totally fine to throw boost at but doing those tests first should be a priority to determine engine health first.
--With the engine removed from the car the lower and upper oil pans have to be completely removed to have the oil drain area fully drilled out, smoothed and the stud areas tapped for threads. All of that is un-machined from the factory on all 2JZ-GE's but otherwise present on the upper oil pans. Prep all of that and you can use a block-off fitting on your newly installed turbo oil drain neck. Then follow the engine TSRM and re-seal everything the way it tells you to with FIPG. And don't forget the internal O-ring for the oil pickup that MUST be installed before the upper oil pan goes back on. Check the lower oil pan's edges for straightness and if any of it is bent it will either have to be made true again or replaced with a new lower pan for an SC/MKIV/Soarer.
--Buy an IS300 "Union Bolt" 90401-19008. This will be used to replace your stock Union Bolt on the oil filter elbow/housing under the intake manifold. It has a 1/8 BSPT threaded hole that will need to be adapted to a 1/8" NPT thread. This is what most people use for their NA-T main oil feed. For the time being with no turbo you can use it with an oil pressure gauge sender if you wish or you can just use an NPT plug there.
--Next, it will help to upgrade the oil pump to the 1996+ GE and GE VVT-i oil pump which has a factory location for a crank sensor. The correct crank gear with the correct number of teeth is also important. I'm fuzzy on which one specifically is recommended per NA-T application but the info is here if you search the big NA-T advice threads.
--Next is something that is more ideally done when it is actually time to lower the compression ratio for turbocharging since the 2JZ-GE is most efficient at its stock 10.0:1 compression but nonetheless for NA-T the #1 choice to lower the compression appropriately is to buy an OEM 2JZ-GTE Multi-Layer-Steel head gasket which will drop that compression ratio to an ideal 9.2:1. Use ARP head studs with OEM head stud washers and buy the correct thin wall socket to install them with a good quality well calibrated torque wrench capable of up to 100 ft-lbs (you won't go that high but you'll need 80ft-lbs for the head studs) such as a CDI model.
--Finally pick up a JDM Aristo 2JZ-GTE Non-VVT-i ECU and start reading threads here on how to plan ahead for what it will need to work with your SC. A distributor top "delete" kit can also be used in addition to COP conversion with this ECU which is good up to about 500whp before it cannot adjust any further.
--The stock 330cc GE injectors are not good enough for turbo duty. The rule of thumb is 1cc = 1hp. An easy drop-in solution are re-balanced and sonic cleaned 440cc OEM injectors from a JDM 2JZ-GTE engine. The stock SC300 FPR may also need changing but I am not sure offhand. DIY threads will cover that detail also.
--The stock GE automatic transmission isn't known to handle big power. Not in the same way that one from a Supra TT (auto), Aristo TT (all auto) or Soarer automatic will. You'll need to look into an upgraded A-series 4-speed automatic transmission or a manual transmission.
--The stock internals of your 1995 2JZ-GE engine are good as-is to about 500whp maximum before you need to start building it stronger. So if you stay under that ceiling you will have a happy and trouble-free totally stock internal engine. Technically the GE pistons (just as strong as GTE pistons but higher compression) are good to 700whp maximum but the stock rods need stronger ARP bolts to match the level of the stock pistons. Until you get into a VERY serious and expensive engine build these horsepower ceilings shouldn't be an issue in a basic level NA-T engine build.
Now, that covers all the major engine prep work for turbo. A new water pump, new thermostat, new timing belt and associated components and various other service items should all be things that you do as well.
.....
You will also need more fuel for turbo duty. The Denso #950-0109 is the Supra TT USDM/Export high capacity fuel pump that will meet his need. To install it you will need to run a separate 30A fused 10-gauge power wire from the engine bay through the firewall along the lower door sill and up into the rear seat area where the factory GE Fuel ECU resides. Either in the engine bay or right there at the Fuel ECU you will need to put a relay which is triggered on and off by the stock Fuel ECU (called the 12V Fuel Mod w/Relay). What this will do is allow the safety of the stock fuel control and cutoff by the main ECU and Fuel ECU but instead of varying the power between 9V and 12V it will just trigger 12V power all the time to the Denso fuel pump.
If you look in my build thread I have a section there with pictures and info on how to install the Denso TT pump and this setup. Later in my thread I also show how to build compact fuse and relay boxes in the engine bay with various kit parts from Littelfuse.
.....
This is a long answer to your question but as you can see there is a considerable amount of prep work to do even before you have bought a turbocharger, turbo exhaust manifold, intercooler and piping, etc.
This is why I suggest checking out your 2JZ-GE engine's compression numbers first, researching and gathering parts as you can and why I recommend that you mostly focus on prepping the brakes, suspension, etc. for the power you'll have later on.
Also by the time you finally do get into NA-T boost it is recommended that you have some kind of LSD installed by then. At the very least you will notice that more steering correction input will be needed in all situations when you have 300-400hp or more under your foot in these cars if the rear end is still controlled with an open differential.
With NA-T as your goal the engine itself should be left alone for now other than maintenance. However there are several things to acquire and have ready on standby to allow you to do the actual turbo conversion... which honestly is easier the first time as an engine-out procedure.
You can do the hardest prep jobs now or put them off until later. Everything listed below is recommended tp be done with the engine removed from the SC with a 2-ton engine crane and mounted on a V-stand:
--Get a quality compression tester (NOT one from Harbor Freight. Get one that you can fully remove from the spark plug holes with a socket tool). It is advisable to do a full compression test and leak-down test in each cylinder to make sure you have healthy compression all around. What mileage does your SC300 currently have? Anything over 200k might be totally fine to throw boost at but doing those tests first should be a priority to determine engine health first.
--With the engine removed from the car the lower and upper oil pans have to be completely removed to have the oil drain area fully drilled out, smoothed and the stud areas tapped for threads. All of that is un-machined from the factory on all 2JZ-GE's but otherwise present on the upper oil pans. Prep all of that and you can use a block-off fitting on your newly installed turbo oil drain neck. Then follow the engine TSRM and re-seal everything the way it tells you to with FIPG. And don't forget the internal O-ring for the oil pickup that MUST be installed before the upper oil pan goes back on. Check the lower oil pan's edges for straightness and if any of it is bent it will either have to be made true again or replaced with a new lower pan for an SC/MKIV/Soarer.
--Buy an IS300 "Union Bolt" 90401-19008. This will be used to replace your stock Union Bolt on the oil filter elbow/housing under the intake manifold. It has a 1/8 BSPT threaded hole that will need to be adapted to a 1/8" NPT thread. This is what most people use for their NA-T main oil feed. For the time being with no turbo you can use it with an oil pressure gauge sender if you wish or you can just use an NPT plug there.
--Next, it will help to upgrade the oil pump to the 1996+ GE and GE VVT-i oil pump which has a factory location for a crank sensor. The correct crank gear with the correct number of teeth is also important. I'm fuzzy on which one specifically is recommended per NA-T application but the info is here if you search the big NA-T advice threads.
--Next is something that is more ideally done when it is actually time to lower the compression ratio for turbocharging since the 2JZ-GE is most efficient at its stock 10.0:1 compression but nonetheless for NA-T the #1 choice to lower the compression appropriately is to buy an OEM 2JZ-GTE Multi-Layer-Steel head gasket which will drop that compression ratio to an ideal 9.2:1. Use ARP head studs with OEM head stud washers and buy the correct thin wall socket to install them with a good quality well calibrated torque wrench capable of up to 100 ft-lbs (you won't go that high but you'll need 80ft-lbs for the head studs) such as a CDI model.
--Finally pick up a JDM Aristo 2JZ-GTE Non-VVT-i ECU and start reading threads here on how to plan ahead for what it will need to work with your SC. A distributor top "delete" kit can also be used in addition to COP conversion with this ECU which is good up to about 500whp before it cannot adjust any further.
--The stock 330cc GE injectors are not good enough for turbo duty. The rule of thumb is 1cc = 1hp. An easy drop-in solution are re-balanced and sonic cleaned 440cc OEM injectors from a JDM 2JZ-GTE engine. The stock SC300 FPR may also need changing but I am not sure offhand. DIY threads will cover that detail also.
--The stock GE automatic transmission isn't known to handle big power. Not in the same way that one from a Supra TT (auto), Aristo TT (all auto) or Soarer automatic will. You'll need to look into an upgraded A-series 4-speed automatic transmission or a manual transmission.
--The stock internals of your 1995 2JZ-GE engine are good as-is to about 500whp maximum before you need to start building it stronger. So if you stay under that ceiling you will have a happy and trouble-free totally stock internal engine. Technically the GE pistons (just as strong as GTE pistons but higher compression) are good to 700whp maximum but the stock rods need stronger ARP bolts to match the level of the stock pistons. Until you get into a VERY serious and expensive engine build these horsepower ceilings shouldn't be an issue in a basic level NA-T engine build.
Now, that covers all the major engine prep work for turbo. A new water pump, new thermostat, new timing belt and associated components and various other service items should all be things that you do as well.
.....
You will also need more fuel for turbo duty. The Denso #950-0109 is the Supra TT USDM/Export high capacity fuel pump that will meet his need. To install it you will need to run a separate 30A fused 10-gauge power wire from the engine bay through the firewall along the lower door sill and up into the rear seat area where the factory GE Fuel ECU resides. Either in the engine bay or right there at the Fuel ECU you will need to put a relay which is triggered on and off by the stock Fuel ECU (called the 12V Fuel Mod w/Relay). What this will do is allow the safety of the stock fuel control and cutoff by the main ECU and Fuel ECU but instead of varying the power between 9V and 12V it will just trigger 12V power all the time to the Denso fuel pump.
If you look in my build thread I have a section there with pictures and info on how to install the Denso TT pump and this setup. Later in my thread I also show how to build compact fuse and relay boxes in the engine bay with various kit parts from Littelfuse.
.....
This is a long answer to your question but as you can see there is a considerable amount of prep work to do even before you have bought a turbocharger, turbo exhaust manifold, intercooler and piping, etc.
This is why I suggest checking out your 2JZ-GE engine's compression numbers first, researching and gathering parts as you can and why I recommend that you mostly focus on prepping the brakes, suspension, etc. for the power you'll have later on.
Also by the time you finally do get into NA-T boost it is recommended that you have some kind of LSD installed by then. At the very least you will notice that more steering correction input will be needed in all situations when you have 300-400hp or more under your foot in these cars if the rear end is still controlled with an open differential.
So I can do everything you said but now it's just a matter of aquiring all of the stuff. Sorry to keep having you hold my hand but Im wondering what you think the budget would he for this build. My plans for the next 2-3 years are to buy coils, wheels, stereo, sway bars, diff, brakes and maybe some seats with a roll bar and a 6 point and that is gonna be around 6k. Which for me is doable I just gotta work my *** off. So after that what would say injectors, eCU, transmission (t56 conversion), turbo kit, rods, oil pump, head gasket and all the other parts to make it work would cost? Again I'm sorry, I'm super new to this and I have spent hours research kits and parts but I can't find any clear answer for these cars.
Last edited by shwag; 07-27-21 at 01:13 PM.
07-27-21, 09:21 PM
#6
I can chime in here since I'm doing an NA-T project myself and have been buying most of the parts lately. Without tallying up my receipts, I can safely say you can expect to spend $6-7K to do a pretty standard build. There are probably other things I am leaving off, and I didn't really include anything like engine teardown (if you go that route), or new transmission, or new valve seals. You can't really do these as a "budget build" like throwing a junkyard LS w/ a turbo into something else.
BALLPARK PRICES
CX Racing GT35 turbo kit w/ intercooler - $2,300
Kaz LSD - $1,000
Oil fittings, hoses, Oil - $150
Injectors - $700
Head Studs - $150
Fuel Pump - $200
Standalone ECU - $2-3,000
Fuel lines/braided hoses and fittings - $200
Fuel Pressure Regulator - $200
Gaskets (head, intake, valve covers) - $400
Plugs - $30
Wires - $50
Cap and Rotor - $60
BC Racing coil overs - $1,000
Tuning time - $500
Misc. Crap like wire, FIPG, etc... - $500
BALLPARK PRICES
CX Racing GT35 turbo kit w/ intercooler - $2,300
Kaz LSD - $1,000
Oil fittings, hoses, Oil - $150
Injectors - $700
Head Studs - $150
Fuel Pump - $200
Standalone ECU - $2-3,000
Fuel lines/braided hoses and fittings - $200
Fuel Pressure Regulator - $200
Gaskets (head, intake, valve covers) - $400
Plugs - $30
Wires - $50
Cap and Rotor - $60
BC Racing coil overs - $1,000
Tuning time - $500
Misc. Crap like wire, FIPG, etc... - $500
07-28-21, 09:16 PM
#7
^^ Those are good starting estimates. I was suggesting shwag to start with a basic build using a stock ECU mostly due to keeping the costs down and having a reliable engine control solution good for about 450whp or so (I think?) but factoring in a standalone ECU and the tuning needed for it will up the cost considerably.
Yet... a stock 2JZ-GTE ECU will be limited in terms of how much power can be made with it. 400whp-500whp is quite a lot of power in the real world even though some 2JZ's are built for much more but it's all relative if someone is already used to that much power or more. The engine internals won't need an upgrade up to just before 500whp which also keeps the cost down. With 140k on that engine I think you will be fine to boost... but *DO* perform a cylinder compression test beforehand anyway just to be safe. And factor in changing to the OEM 2JZ-GTE MLS head gasket with new ARP head studs and OEM Toyota head stud washers.
While getting in there and doing that much work including the turbo oil drain fitting and oil feed prep work it's a no-brainer to have the valve covers blasted and powder coated (that makes a world of difference!) while they're already off the engine and to install new valve cover gasket seals (with the required dabs of FIPG in accordance with the factory service manual instructions) and especially new valve stem seals.
The transmission is another good point, Turbostar. It will need to be changed for a stronger automatic from a GTE or converted to manual if the budget allows.
shwag, I can't help much on budget. Even my own rolling/daily project SC had no budget and I still haven't added up all the receipts (though I kept meticulous records of every single thing I purchased). I just kept acquiring parts and doing a bit at a time over an eight year period. For an NA-T build I certainly don't think you would need to take *that* long to get it done.
I will echo however that an NA-T build or GTE swap done the right way with everything dialed in well is not going to be a very tight-budget friendly endeavor despite the great potential of the engine and chassis. I say it's closer to $10k or more done right. But will you do it all at once or take your time with the build? Will you drive it with some modifications while preparing a second engine to be installed later?
Having access to a professional shop and a wide range of tools (and a shop lift!) are huge plusses and also the main reason why you may be able to keep your SC build affordable within reason
Yet... a stock 2JZ-GTE ECU will be limited in terms of how much power can be made with it. 400whp-500whp is quite a lot of power in the real world even though some 2JZ's are built for much more but it's all relative if someone is already used to that much power or more. The engine internals won't need an upgrade up to just before 500whp which also keeps the cost down. With 140k on that engine I think you will be fine to boost... but *DO* perform a cylinder compression test beforehand anyway just to be safe. And factor in changing to the OEM 2JZ-GTE MLS head gasket with new ARP head studs and OEM Toyota head stud washers.
While getting in there and doing that much work including the turbo oil drain fitting and oil feed prep work it's a no-brainer to have the valve covers blasted and powder coated (that makes a world of difference!) while they're already off the engine and to install new valve cover gasket seals (with the required dabs of FIPG in accordance with the factory service manual instructions) and especially new valve stem seals.
The transmission is another good point, Turbostar. It will need to be changed for a stronger automatic from a GTE or converted to manual if the budget allows.
shwag, I can't help much on budget. Even my own rolling/daily project SC had no budget and I still haven't added up all the receipts (though I kept meticulous records of every single thing I purchased). I just kept acquiring parts and doing a bit at a time over an eight year period. For an NA-T build I certainly don't think you would need to take *that* long to get it done.
I will echo however that an NA-T build or GTE swap done the right way with everything dialed in well is not going to be a very tight-budget friendly endeavor despite the great potential of the engine and chassis. I say it's closer to $10k or more done right. But will you do it all at once or take your time with the build? Will you drive it with some modifications while preparing a second engine to be installed later?
Having access to a professional shop and a wide range of tools (and a shop lift!) are huge plusses and also the main reason why you may be able to keep your SC build affordable within reason
Last edited by KahnBB6; 07-29-21 at 02:54 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by KahnBB6:
Bimmerbill (07-29-21),
RudysSC (07-29-21)
Trending Topics
07-28-21, 09:42 PM
#8
Kahn is giving great advice. Listen to him about doing all the other car mods before you spend a bunch of money trying to add a turbo. It isn't really as simple as just adding a turbo, although I wish it was. It is also very time consuming. You want to be able to enjoy the car, so I'd do wheels and coilovers first, so it at least looks badass while you drive it and acquire other parts.
The following 2 users liked this post by Turbostar:
Bimmerbill (07-29-21),
RudysSC (07-29-21)
07-29-21, 03:48 PM
#9
10th Gear
Thread Starter
^^ Those are good starting estimates. I was suggesting shwag to start with a basic build using a stock ECU mostly due to keeping the costs down and having a reliable engine control solution good for about 450whp or so (I think?) but factoring in a standalone ECU and the tuning needed for it will up the cost considerably.
Yet... a stock 2JZ-GTE ECU will be limited in terms of how much power can be made with it. 400whp-500whp is quite a lot of power in the real world even though some 2JZ's are built for much more but it's all relative if someone is already used to that much power or more. The engine internals won't need an upgrade up to just before 500whp which also keeps the cost down. With 140k on that engine I think you will be fine to boost... but *DO* perform a cylinder compression test beforehand anyway just to be safe. And factor in changing to the OEM 2JZ-GTE MLS head gasket with new ARP head studs and OEM Toyota head stud washers.
While getting in there and doing that much work including the turbo oil drain fitting and oil feed prep work it's a no-brainer to have the valve covers blasted and powder coated (that makes a world of difference!) while they're already off the engine and to install new valve cover gasket seals (with the required dabs of FIPG in accordance with the factory service manual instructions) and especially new valve stem seals.
The transmission is another good point, Turbostar. It will need to be changed for a stronger automatic from a GTE or converted to manual if the budget allows.
shwag, I can't help much on budget. Even my own rolling/daily project SC had no budget and I still haven't added up all the receipts (though I kept meticulous records of every single thing I purchased). I just kept acquiring parts and doing a bit at a time over an eight year period. For an NA-T build I certainly don't think you would need to take *that* long to get it done.
I will echo however that an NA-T build or GTE swap done the right way with everything dialed in well is not going to be a very tight-budget friendly endeavor despite the great potential of the engine and chassis. I say it's closer to $10k or more done right. But will you do it all at once or take your time with the build? Will you drive it with some modifications while preparing a second engine to be installed later?
Having access to a professional shop and a wide range of tools (and a shop lift!) are huge plusses and also the main reason why you may be able to keep your SC build affordable within reason
Yet... a stock 2JZ-GTE ECU will be limited in terms of how much power can be made with it. 400whp-500whp is quite a lot of power in the real world even though some 2JZ's are built for much more but it's all relative if someone is already used to that much power or more. The engine internals won't need an upgrade up to just before 500whp which also keeps the cost down. With 140k on that engine I think you will be fine to boost... but *DO* perform a cylinder compression test beforehand anyway just to be safe. And factor in changing to the OEM 2JZ-GTE MLS head gasket with new ARP head studs and OEM Toyota head stud washers.
While getting in there and doing that much work including the turbo oil drain fitting and oil feed prep work it's a no-brainer to have the valve covers blasted and powder coated (that makes a world of difference!) while they're already off the engine and to install new valve cover gasket seals (with the required dabs of FIPG in accordance with the factory service manual instructions) and especially new valve stem seals.
The transmission is another good point, Turbostar. It will need to be changed for a stronger automatic from a GTE or converted to manual if the budget allows.
shwag, I can't help much on budget. Even my own rolling/daily project SC had no budget and I still haven't added up all the receipts (though I kept meticulous records of every single thing I purchased). I just kept acquiring parts and doing a bit at a time over an eight year period. For an NA-T build I certainly don't think you would need to take *that* long to get it done.
I will echo however that an NA-T build or GTE swap done the right way with everything dialed in well is not going to be a very tight-budget friendly endeavor despite the great potential of the engine and chassis. I say it's closer to $10k or more done right. But will you do it all at once or take your time with the build? Will you drive it with some modifications while preparing a second engine to be installed later?
Having access to a professional shop and a wide range of tools (and a shop lift!) are huge plusses and also the main reason why you may be able to keep your SC build affordable within reason
I have a budget in mind for the car as a whole and for what I wanna do it's gonna be around 30k. Definitely gonna be a process but for how much I have fallen in love with this car I think it's worth it.
07-29-21, 03:51 PM
#10
10th Gear
Thread Starter
Kahn is giving great advice. Listen to him about doing all the other car mods before you spend a bunch of money trying to add a turbo. It isn't really as simple as just adding a turbo, although I wish it was. It is also very time consuming. You want to be able to enjoy the car, so I'd do wheels and coilovers first, so it at least looks badass while you drive it and acquire other parts.
The following users liked this post:
KahnBB6 (07-30-21)
07-29-21, 03:52 PM
#11
10th Gear
Thread Starter
Kahn is giving great advice. Listen to him about doing all the other car mods before you spend a bunch of money trying to add a turbo. It isn't really as simple as just adding a turbo, although I wish it was. It is also very time consuming. You want to be able to enjoy the car, so I'd do wheels and coilovers first, so it at least looks badass while you drive it and acquire other parts.
07-30-21, 05:25 PM
#12
I recommend doing what Kahn says.
It is very common on FB for people to get a car then they immediate try to turbo it saying its also their daily. So they start piecing together a turbo kit. Usually around the time they have most of a kit together, a balljoint breaks or the transmission starts slipping and suddenly they're parting our their turbo kit OR selling the car.
What I am trying to say is, this 20+ year old car is going to have problems, and you're going to have to be proactive at fixing them before they become problems OR have enough money to burn to fix them as they come along. Kahn gives great advice, and if you follow it, even if putting a turbo on it is the last thing you'll do, you'll be happy you fixed all the other problems and made a car that gets better to drive everytime you replace something
If this is going to be a long term car you need to look at the build as being long term. It will probably take a couple years to get to where you want to be. But that's the whole idea, correct?
It is very common on FB for people to get a car then they immediate try to turbo it saying its also their daily. So they start piecing together a turbo kit. Usually around the time they have most of a kit together, a balljoint breaks or the transmission starts slipping and suddenly they're parting our their turbo kit OR selling the car.
What I am trying to say is, this 20+ year old car is going to have problems, and you're going to have to be proactive at fixing them before they become problems OR have enough money to burn to fix them as they come along. Kahn gives great advice, and if you follow it, even if putting a turbo on it is the last thing you'll do, you'll be happy you fixed all the other problems and made a car that gets better to drive everytime you replace something
If this is going to be a long term car you need to look at the build as being long term. It will probably take a couple years to get to where you want to be. But that's the whole idea, correct?
07-31-21, 02:28 PM
#13
1997Soarer, I could not have said it better myself ^^
My own SC has been my daily for 11 years and this was the way that made sense to approach it before I finally had a boosted engine installed.
Along the way little things needed repair, replacing or troubleshooting and there was regular maintenance to do... since it’s a daily driver for me too.
By the time I was finally ready to begin the turbo engine work (for me it took a few more years than for most) I already had an SC chassis fully ready to reliably and safely have much more horsepower and torque thrown at it that I had been using consistently.
Honestly I feel how one gets there is different for everyone and the budget factor at any given time is significant.
Not changing my overall plan for how I’d eventually configure the engine for a certain power level kept the turbo engine parts acquisitions sort of affordable as I went along while at the same time allowing me to also spend a little at a time to upgrade, restore, maintain and do some surprise repairs to the chassis.
The word proactive is very fitting and that’s what I do even to the point of picking up some new spare parts every so often. It’s not too bad if you just do this a little bit at a time as you go.
These cars are very, very well designed and built and they are very reliable but they’re older now and usually need some things repaired and restored every so often. However once addressed each of these little issues aren’t likely to show up again for another 20-30 years. It varies by the condition and long term use to date of each SC of course.
Anyway 1997Soarer nailed it and I agree. If you are going to use your SC as a daily right off the bat I feel that focusing on the chassis and its various systems and any staged upgrade prep to handle more power should be the first priorities with the engine parts for turbo being the secondary priority.
My own SC has been my daily for 11 years and this was the way that made sense to approach it before I finally had a boosted engine installed.
Along the way little things needed repair, replacing or troubleshooting and there was regular maintenance to do... since it’s a daily driver for me too.
By the time I was finally ready to begin the turbo engine work (for me it took a few more years than for most) I already had an SC chassis fully ready to reliably and safely have much more horsepower and torque thrown at it that I had been using consistently.
Honestly I feel how one gets there is different for everyone and the budget factor at any given time is significant.
Not changing my overall plan for how I’d eventually configure the engine for a certain power level kept the turbo engine parts acquisitions sort of affordable as I went along while at the same time allowing me to also spend a little at a time to upgrade, restore, maintain and do some surprise repairs to the chassis.
The word proactive is very fitting and that’s what I do even to the point of picking up some new spare parts every so often. It’s not too bad if you just do this a little bit at a time as you go.
These cars are very, very well designed and built and they are very reliable but they’re older now and usually need some things repaired and restored every so often. However once addressed each of these little issues aren’t likely to show up again for another 20-30 years. It varies by the condition and long term use to date of each SC of course.
Anyway 1997Soarer nailed it and I agree. If you are going to use your SC as a daily right off the bat I feel that focusing on the chassis and its various systems and any staged upgrade prep to handle more power should be the first priorities with the engine parts for turbo being the secondary priority.
The following users liked this post:
RudysSC (08-02-21)
The following users liked this post:
shwag (08-02-21)
08-02-21, 10:17 AM
#15
10th Gear
Thread Starter
I recommend doing what Kahn says.
It is very common on FB for people to get a car then they immediate try to turbo it saying its also their daily. So they start piecing together a turbo kit. Usually around the time they have most of a kit together, a balljoint breaks or the transmission starts slipping and suddenly they're parting our their turbo kit OR selling the car.
What I am trying to say is, this 20+ year old car is going to have problems, and you're going to have to be proactive at fixing them before they become problems OR have enough money to burn to fix them as they come along. Kahn gives great advice, and if you follow it, even if putting a turbo on it is the last thing you'll do, you'll be happy you fixed all the other problems and made a car that gets better to drive everytime you replace something
If this is going to be a long term car you need to look at the build as being long term. It will probably take a couple years to get to where you want to be. But that's the whole idea, correct?
It is very common on FB for people to get a car then they immediate try to turbo it saying its also their daily. So they start piecing together a turbo kit. Usually around the time they have most of a kit together, a balljoint breaks or the transmission starts slipping and suddenly they're parting our their turbo kit OR selling the car.
What I am trying to say is, this 20+ year old car is going to have problems, and you're going to have to be proactive at fixing them before they become problems OR have enough money to burn to fix them as they come along. Kahn gives great advice, and if you follow it, even if putting a turbo on it is the last thing you'll do, you'll be happy you fixed all the other problems and made a car that gets better to drive everytime you replace something
If this is going to be a long term car you need to look at the build as being long term. It will probably take a couple years to get to where you want to be. But that's the whole idea, correct?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sj408
Performance & Maintenance
7
09-03-09 11:42 AM