1992 turbo prep
07-07-22, 09:08 PM
#2
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-the-guru.html
You will need to pull your engine to do the basic prep such as pulling the upper oil pan off the engine in order to drill out and tap the turbo oil drain area and clean out ALL metal shavings before reinstalling. At that same time you'll want to switch to a 1996+ 2JZ-GE oil pump for the crank sensor mounting area that your 1992 engine block doesn't have and with it you'll need to install a new crank gear with the correct crank sensor wheel for the application to allow that sensor to work.
The basic go-to head gasket for boost is an OEM Toyota 2JZ-GTE 1.6mm MLS head gasket with ARP head studs and OEM head stud washers. That reduces the stock 10.0:1 compression ratio to a more boost-friendly 9.2:1.
You'll also need to upgrade the cooling system (radiator), fuel system (research the "12V Mod With 30/40A Relay" that still uses your stock GE Fuel ECU as the control/trigger/safety for your new fuel pump-- the basic go-to fuel pump is the Denso OEM-spec fuel pump for the Supra MKIV TT which is good up to 500whp).
Basic drop-in injectors can be had in re-balanced and sonic cleaned 440cc JDM 2JZ-GTE units (good up to 400whp @ a safe 80% duty cycle)... or whatever is on the aftermarket that fits your needs.
The most economical ECU you will find is a JDM Aristo 2JZ-GTE (auto) ECU which can handle old school tuning piggyback methods up to about 450whp but which is pretty much foolproof being a factory turbo ECU once it's wired up correctly.
The 2JZ-GE distributor can be "deleted" or rather converted to just output the camshaft sensor signal with a flat cover where the cap and rotor used to be. Then you can install a coil pack conversion which plays well with a factory 2JZ-GTE ECU.
Before doing all of this you should do a leak-down compression test on each cylinder in order to determine the health of the piston rings. You will be changing the head gasket to a thicker multi-layer steel type (OEM 2JZ-GTE) but you should do this health check first.
Also with boost you will need to switch to a longer final drive ratio. The most inexpensive will be a 3.92:1 from a 1992-1997 SC400. Do keep your stock 4.272:1 SC300 auto diff however as there are some transmission applications that can make use of it (mostly the Tremec T56 Magnum 6-speed manual).
Your stock SC300 auto transmission will not handle too much boost for long so you will need to upgrade to a factory 1JZ-GTE or 2JZ-GTE turbo-spec 4-speed automatic transmission or you can choose from a range of manual transmission options that are turbo-friendly.
Also, an LSD in your rear diff is always recommended with a turbo engine setup but that can come along the way so long as you keep the power somewhat manageable and drive carefully until you have one.
...
There really is a lot to read up with on NA-T setups so definitely take a look through that thread and look around for more related threads regarding NA-T setups. Also, feel free to look through the build threads section to learn what other members did to achieve their unique NA-T builds!
I hope this helps! : )
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RudysSC (07-11-22)
07-07-22, 09:49 PM
#3
10th Gear
Thread Starter
This is a big topic that has been covered a lot over the years. The first thing to do is start reading this excellent and comprehensive NA-T thread by Ali SC3 to start learning the basics and see how techniques have progressed up to the present.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-the-guru.html
You will need to pull your engine to do the basic prep such as pulling the upper oil pan off the engine in order to drill out and tap the turbo oil drain area and clean out ALL metal shavings before reinstalling. At that same time you'll want to switch to a 1996+ 2JZ-GE oil pump for the crank sensor mounting area that your 1992 engine block doesn't have and with it you'll need to install a new crank gear with the correct crank sensor wheel for the application to allow that sensor to work.
The basic go-to head gasket for boost is an OEM Toyota 2JZ-GTE 1.6mm MLS head gasket with ARP head studs and OEM head stud washers. That reduces the stock 10.0:1 compression ratio to a more boost-friendly 9.2:1.
You'll also need to upgrade the cooling system (radiator), fuel system (research the "12V Mod With 30/40A Relay" that still uses your stock GE Fuel ECU as the control/trigger/safety for your new fuel pump-- the basic go-to fuel pump is the Denso OEM-spec fuel pump for the Supra MKIV TT which is good up to 500whp).
Basic drop-in injectors can be had in re-balanced and sonic cleaned 440cc JDM 2JZ-GTE units (good up to 400whp @ a safe 80% duty cycle)... or whatever is on the aftermarket that fits your needs.
The most economical ECU you will find is a JDM Aristo 2JZ-GTE (auto) ECU which can handle old school tuning piggyback methods up to about 450whp but which is pretty much foolproof being a factory turbo ECU once it's wired up correctly.
The 2JZ-GE distributor can be "deleted" or rather converted to just output the camshaft sensor signal with a flat cover where the cap and rotor used to be. Then you can install a coil pack conversion which plays well with a factory 2JZ-GTE ECU.
Before doing all of this you should do a leak-down compression test on each cylinder in order to determine the health of the piston rings. You will be changing the head gasket to a thicker multi-layer steel type (OEM 2JZ-GTE) but you should do this health check first.
Also with boost you will need to switch to a longer final drive ratio. The most inexpensive will be a 3.92:1 from a 1992-1997 SC400. Do keep your stock 4.272:1 SC300 auto diff however as there are some transmission applications that can make use of it (mostly the Tremec T56 Magnum 6-speed manual).
Your stock SC300 auto transmission will not handle too much boost for long so you will need to upgrade to a factory 1JZ-GTE or 2JZ-GTE turbo-spec 4-speed automatic transmission or you can choose from a range of manual transmission options that are turbo-friendly.
Also, an LSD in your rear diff is always recommended with a turbo engine setup but that can come along the way so long as you keep the power somewhat manageable and drive carefully until you have one.
...
There really is a lot to read up with on NA-T setups so definitely take a look through that thread and look around for more related threads regarding NA-T setups. Also, feel free to look through the build threads section to learn what other members did to achieve their unique NA-T builds!
I hope this helps! : )
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-the-guru.html
You will need to pull your engine to do the basic prep such as pulling the upper oil pan off the engine in order to drill out and tap the turbo oil drain area and clean out ALL metal shavings before reinstalling. At that same time you'll want to switch to a 1996+ 2JZ-GE oil pump for the crank sensor mounting area that your 1992 engine block doesn't have and with it you'll need to install a new crank gear with the correct crank sensor wheel for the application to allow that sensor to work.
The basic go-to head gasket for boost is an OEM Toyota 2JZ-GTE 1.6mm MLS head gasket with ARP head studs and OEM head stud washers. That reduces the stock 10.0:1 compression ratio to a more boost-friendly 9.2:1.
You'll also need to upgrade the cooling system (radiator), fuel system (research the "12V Mod With 30/40A Relay" that still uses your stock GE Fuel ECU as the control/trigger/safety for your new fuel pump-- the basic go-to fuel pump is the Denso OEM-spec fuel pump for the Supra MKIV TT which is good up to 500whp).
Basic drop-in injectors can be had in re-balanced and sonic cleaned 440cc JDM 2JZ-GTE units (good up to 400whp @ a safe 80% duty cycle)... or whatever is on the aftermarket that fits your needs.
The most economical ECU you will find is a JDM Aristo 2JZ-GTE (auto) ECU which can handle old school tuning piggyback methods up to about 450whp but which is pretty much foolproof being a factory turbo ECU once it's wired up correctly.
The 2JZ-GE distributor can be "deleted" or rather converted to just output the camshaft sensor signal with a flat cover where the cap and rotor used to be. Then you can install a coil pack conversion which plays well with a factory 2JZ-GTE ECU.
Before doing all of this you should do a leak-down compression test on each cylinder in order to determine the health of the piston rings. You will be changing the head gasket to a thicker multi-layer steel type (OEM 2JZ-GTE) but you should do this health check first.
Also with boost you will need to switch to a longer final drive ratio. The most inexpensive will be a 3.92:1 from a 1992-1997 SC400. Do keep your stock 4.272:1 SC300 auto diff however as there are some transmission applications that can make use of it (mostly the Tremec T56 Magnum 6-speed manual).
Your stock SC300 auto transmission will not handle too much boost for long so you will need to upgrade to a factory 1JZ-GTE or 2JZ-GTE turbo-spec 4-speed automatic transmission or you can choose from a range of manual transmission options that are turbo-friendly.
Also, an LSD in your rear diff is always recommended with a turbo engine setup but that can come along the way so long as you keep the power somewhat manageable and drive carefully until you have one.
...
There really is a lot to read up with on NA-T setups so definitely take a look through that thread and look around for more related threads regarding NA-T setups. Also, feel free to look through the build threads section to learn what other members did to achieve their unique NA-T builds!
I hope this helps! : )
07-08-22, 05:56 PM
#4
Not necessarily but it is up to you. There are several ways to have a turbocharged JZ engine in your SC. After about 500-600whp the types of engine modifications required to take a 1JZ-GTE or 2JZ-GTE even higher than that tend to be about the same as the same modifications you would be making to a 2JZ-GE NA-T to go into the 700whp+, 800whp+ and four digit range.
It really depends on what you like and what style of JZ engine you want in the car.
As for full engine set swaps you should avoid any of the ones with ECUs that have a factory immobilizer (very late model engines) however with additional full aftermarket ECU setups that won't be a problem anyway. But in general it's nice to be able to retain a working factory Toyota ECU for milder tunes, rock-solid reliability and general engine diagnosis.
The simplest overall swap would still be a 1JZ-GTE Non-VVT-i or VVT-i with the attached factory auto transmission that came with it or the same in a 2JZ-GTE Non-VVT-i or 2JZ-GTE VVT-i variant. With any of those you'd want to make sure you're getting the engine harness and matching ECU included. It's best to be able to check the engine set in person at any JDM engine importer but often we can't do that so just ask questions before purchasing and check the listing pictures carefully.
Keep in mind that with any used engine you should plan to do a full maintenance overall before installation and go through the entire engine wiring harness at the same time and replace anything that is broken. Since there is always some wiring harness extension needed and additional wiring changes to fit your SC body plugs with any JDM engine swap it's a good idea to cover all of that at the same time.
We have an excellent JDM 2JZ-GTE to SC300/400 wiring harness swap guide here on the forum by Gerrb!
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...made-easy.html
Manual transmission engine sets with factory R154 5-speeds are harder to come by and it is very common to buy a JDM auto transmission engine set and manual transmission separately.
Common manual transmission options are: MKIII Supra R154 5-speed (using XCessive Manufacturing transmission crossmember for this transmission to fit an SC), Soarer Z30 R154 5-speed, JZX90/100/110 R154 5-speed, Nissan CD009 (with swap kit), Tremec T56 Magnum 6-speed (Grannas Racing swap kit).
Manual pedal sets are harder to come by these days but XCessive Manufacturing sells an aftermarket manual pedal conversion kit for SC300/400's.
It really depends on what you like and what style of JZ engine you want in the car.
As for full engine set swaps you should avoid any of the ones with ECUs that have a factory immobilizer (very late model engines) however with additional full aftermarket ECU setups that won't be a problem anyway. But in general it's nice to be able to retain a working factory Toyota ECU for milder tunes, rock-solid reliability and general engine diagnosis.
The simplest overall swap would still be a 1JZ-GTE Non-VVT-i or VVT-i with the attached factory auto transmission that came with it or the same in a 2JZ-GTE Non-VVT-i or 2JZ-GTE VVT-i variant. With any of those you'd want to make sure you're getting the engine harness and matching ECU included. It's best to be able to check the engine set in person at any JDM engine importer but often we can't do that so just ask questions before purchasing and check the listing pictures carefully.
Keep in mind that with any used engine you should plan to do a full maintenance overall before installation and go through the entire engine wiring harness at the same time and replace anything that is broken. Since there is always some wiring harness extension needed and additional wiring changes to fit your SC body plugs with any JDM engine swap it's a good idea to cover all of that at the same time.
We have an excellent JDM 2JZ-GTE to SC300/400 wiring harness swap guide here on the forum by Gerrb!
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...made-easy.html
Manual transmission engine sets with factory R154 5-speeds are harder to come by and it is very common to buy a JDM auto transmission engine set and manual transmission separately.
Common manual transmission options are: MKIII Supra R154 5-speed (using XCessive Manufacturing transmission crossmember for this transmission to fit an SC), Soarer Z30 R154 5-speed, JZX90/100/110 R154 5-speed, Nissan CD009 (with swap kit), Tremec T56 Magnum 6-speed (Grannas Racing swap kit).
Manual pedal sets are harder to come by these days but XCessive Manufacturing sells an aftermarket manual pedal conversion kit for SC300/400's.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 07-08-22 at 06:00 PM.
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