bron_karr

Ok, so I recently got a 2000 SC300 and have been researching for maybe six months on and off about how to manual swap it.
I want to swap a brand new driftmotion R154 and here is the part list and what I figure it will cost:
R154 with speedo sensor 3320
One piece driveshaft 500
Crossmember 112
Clutch fork 112
Clutch 200
Flywheel 200
Slave cylinder 45
Pedal + master cylinder kit 350
Clutch hose 40
Shift boot trim

So, two questions:
Are my prices unrealistic/can I save on the prices anywhere?
Am I missing anything?

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

1) What version of the R154 will you be using? The older top-loader from an MKIII Supra Turbo? The older top-loader style from a 1991-1993 Soarer? A tripod style from a 1994-2000 or any other mid-90's 1JZ-GTE Toyota? This determines several aspects of your swap.

2) There is no manual ECU for the 2JZ-GE VVT-i engine except for the 2002-2005 Lexus IS300... and that is NOT a drop-in compatible ECU for the SC series. Take a look into manual swap threads by CL member Cartmill and for any other 1998-2000 SC300 or 1998-2000 SC400 manual swap for more details on how to get the ECU to play a little nicer with a manual swap. Or.... go with an aftermarket programmable ECU.

3) Instead of a 1-piece driveshaft you can benefit from the factory two-piece design with an R154 swap by taking your 2000 SC's factory front driveshaft to a professional driveline shop and have them extend it by *approximately* +50mm (aka 1.96 inches). Then have them rebalance it (you may need to bring them your front d/s and rear d/s with center bearing as a matched set). The splines of your car's front automatic driveshaft fit any R154 but the length is too short so getting it lengthened by precisely +50mm (and rebalanced to compensate) will give you a near 100% accurate replica of a 1991-2000 Toyota Soarer R154 front driveshaft. And then you will benefit from the already very strong factory two-piece driveshaft system with all of its vibration dampening qualities.

This is a very straightforward aspect of an R154 swap and works well. Before I learned about using an SC300 A/T front drieshaft I did a very similar thing with an MKIII Supra R154 front driveshaft (which in the case of THAT front driveshaft required shortening it by -3/4" to fit in an SC application)... but in your case you already have the donor SC300 Auto front driveshaft that you would need to modify by +50mm more length... so why not use it? The factory two-piece driveshaft design is VERY strong, smooth at high speeds and capable of whatever you will want to throw at it. And once you've had it lengthened by +50mm and rebalanced (plus a fresh spray of paint) you will have a replica of a Soarer R154 OEM front driveshaft that will work perfectly with an R154 as if your SC came with it like that from the factory.

bron_karr

I am going to be using a brand new tripod R154 from JZX100 chaser. I thought you had to simply wire reverse and the neutral safety switch? Does the ECU act differently even when it thinks it is running fine?

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

The tripod R154 simplifies many things:

--It came with a 3-wire VSS unit from the factory (make sure yours comes with one or if you need to buy the part separately)
--you can use an OEM SC300/MKIV W58 transmission mount available in the U.S.
--you can use the SC300/MKIV W58 transmission OEM crossmember

Correcting the speedo signal is the same with all transmission and diff ratio swaps-- use a Yellr Yellowbox V5 for that. Yellr has a PnP harness for it that you can request from them and we have an install DIY here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ml#post7250024

I only know what I've read about regarding 2JZ-GE VVT-i ECUs with manual swaps. Yes you need to wire the neutral safety switch and reverse lights. You also need to look into removing the automatic transmission shift solenoids and affixing them somewhere under the car so that the ECU doesn't throw a CEL for that. Alternatively you might also look into what people have done with a device called "ATEMU" which simulates the lack of transmission shift solenoids with manual swaps and tells the ECU what it wants to see.

....

Since you are running an R154 I would also recommend setting the neutral safety switch disabled and then doing your due diligence to always check for neutral position before starting the engine. Reason: not really with an OEM Toyota Supra Turbo MKIII R154 pressure plate but with much stronger than "stock" R154 pressure plates (same for V160/161's) the nature of the clutch movement in an R154 with a JZ engine can introduce crankwalk in extreme cases since the R154's standard movement pulls on the rear crank thrust bearing. The main time that this is an issue is when the engine is being started while the rear crank thrust bearing is dry of oil lubrication and your clutch pedal is pressed in as the engine turns over. Oil flow resumes but that initial lack of oil on the rear thrust bearing while it is being pulled on by the R154 pressure plate over time can wear it down.

This does not happen with a JZ engine against an A340 Automatic, A650E Automatic or W58. It also doesn't happen with 7M-GE/GTE engines against an A340 Auto, W58 *or* R154. It only happens with a JZ engine mated to an R154, V160 or V161 with a higher than stock clamping load pressure plate.

The common solution is to wire the Neutral Safety Switch as always making a complete circuit and then religiously checking for neutral before starting. That pretty much eliminates any risk of long term wear. Also, for turbo applications and especially those with high power a twin disc clutch which requires less overall heavy clamping load combined with a movement change kit further entirely eliminates any risk.

OS Giken famously makes multi-disc clutch kits with a movement change kit for both the R154 and V160/161. Other companies offer similar multi-disc clutch kits with movement change mechanisms (or hydraulic movement mechanisms).

If you're just bolting your R154 to a bone stock naturally aspirated 2JZ-GE engine then just buy an OEM 1986-1992 Supra Turbo MKIII R154 clutch kit from Toyota and install that until you upgrade to a turbo setup later on. The OEM Supra MKIII Turbo clutch kit is PLENTY strong for a non-turbo 2JZ-GE's 225hp/210ft-lbs, will last a long time and doesn't put crazy stress on the rear crank thrust bearing. However I still recommend that you complete the NSS circuit with a jumper and get yourself used to consciously checking for neutral before starting the engine just to keep it totally safe.

....

For the shifter you should use whatever is standard and available. No swan neck style shifter is required for or compatible with a tripod R154. For the tunnel opening there are a few options: An Auto to Manual conversion tunnel cover kit is available from Grannas Racing and a couple of similar kits are on eBay. Further, you can opt to get the factory/OEM 95-97 SC manual / 93-02 Supra MKIV manual and 94-00 Soarer manual upper trans tunnel metal cover part, de-rivet your factory auto one and install that part for a factory-perfect tripod R154 friendly tunnel opening. A few SC owners have done it mostly for V160 swaps but it is the same part used by Toyota for R154 applications in the Soarer (P/N 58261-14010). Fourth option is to cut your A/T trans tunnel and make your own makeshift opening.

Whichever tunnel solution that you use either get the factory tripod style rubber dust/insulator boot parts or an aftermarket equivalent. SC transmission tunnels are both noisy and hot without a heavy duty rubber dust and sound isolator boot installed below your upper console.

bron_karr

This is great stuff man. Thanks for the insight. Hopefully my GS300 will sell soon enough so I can get started.

koukikev

Does this information apply to the newer JZX110 R154's as well? It's not a tripod necessarily but I'm hoping the updates carried over. I was told by multiple sources that the JZX110 R154 (33030-2A630) is the best of the different R154 variations in terms of synchro's, gears, shifter feel etc... "The tripod R154 simplifies many things:

--It came with a 3-wire VSS unit from the factory (make sure yours comes with one or if you need to buy the part separately)
--you can use an OEM SC300/MKIV W58 transmission mount available in the U.S.
--you can use the SC300/MKIV W58 transmission OEM crossmember"

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

I am not as familiar with the JZX110 R154 but despite it not being a tripod version I *think* its shifter is still extended to the same length as the tripod R154 or the 91-91 Z30 Soarer top-loader R154. I'm not certain of it but that would be likely. Why Toyota and Aisin switched back to a self-contained extended shifter housing...? Unknown. However I have also heard that the JZX110 R154's also handle the internal pressure buildup issues at very elevated horsepower levels better than the earlier ones by means of an integrated upper breather port.

I do think that all R154's installed in Toyota's cars after the Supra MKIII came with 3-wire electronic VSS senders.

What transmission mount and crossmember to use will depend on the bolt hole arrangement on the tail housing of the JZX110 R154. If it has staggered bolt holes then you can use the SC/Soarer/MKIV W58/R154 mount and crossmember. If it has in-line bolt holes the way a Supra MKIII R154 has on its tail housing then you need to use a Supra MKIII W58/R154 mount and an XCessive Manufacturing crossmember or hack up and extend a 1982-1985 Celica W58 crossmember (but please don't... those early Celica owners have a hard time finding parts now and we have a solution on the aftermarket which will bolt right in with some very minor adjustment).

...

I will say that the Tripod R154 and JZX110 R154 should be improved in shift feel over the earliest MKIII R154. I have the MKIII version in my SC fully built internally with a vintage short shifter and the vintage Soarer Z30 extension housing and arm. It's not bad at all... feeling much like a late 80's Mustang T-5 transmission but much better. Still, the later R154's are improved in many ways. All have the same maximum power and torque holding limits.

Something I have wondered is if the later tripod R154's and JZX110 R154's ever got a synchro for reverse. My early R154 (as well as the Getrag V160's and V161's) has no synchro on reverse. This means you need to slow down and throw it into 1st for a moment to slow the counter-shaft speed down and *then* select reverse. Not doing this in an early R154 can cause a grind into reverse. Small quirk that isn't a big deal at all in my experience but it's worth noting.

joewitafro

I have both newer versions of the R154; both the internal shifted "swan style" from the early JZZ30 and JZX90 cars before the tripod and the late model tripod. I really don't think the early model has the synchro changes compared to the late model and I also don't know if the late model has a synchro on the reverse gear as i've never busted open either transmission.

What I can tell you is both of these transmissions use the staggered bolt hole transmission mount; Part number 12371-46030 (I've purchased two) and this bolts directly into the stock SC300 transmission crossmember.

JoeYabuki

When you say the stock SC300 transmission cross member, are you talking about the stock 5speed crossmember or the stock auto.

Is there a difference?

Thanks!