Just bought a 1998 Aristo, shooting for ~400hp and I知 helplessly lost.
11-02-23, 09:22 AM
#16
From Champion Spark Plugs Website: Copper spark plugs run cooler and provide more power in performance driving situations. They are often installed as original equipment in turbocharged engines and engines with higher compression ratios.
Argue with them...
Argue with them...
11-02-23, 09:25 AM
#17
Lexus Champion
From Champion Spark Plugs Website: Copper spark plugs run cooler and provide more power in performance driving situations. They are often installed as original equipment in turbocharged engines and engines with higher compression ratios.
Argue with them...
Argue with them...
https://www.crsautomotive.com/spark-...ou-never-knew/
So, how much resistance should a spark plug have?
The degree to which a spark plug impedes the flow of electrical current through it is measured in ohms (a unit of electrical resistance.) Typically, the resistance of a spark plug should be between 5,000 and 10,000 ohms.
The degree to which a spark plug impedes the flow of electrical current through it is measured in ohms (a unit of electrical resistance.) Typically, the resistance of a spark plug should be between 5,000 and 10,000 ohms.
11-02-23, 09:55 AM
#18
OMG! Really Dude? Thank you for adding so much useful information to PinnySkenis original post. Oh and PinnySkenis, I highly recommend you go to www.supraforums.com where there are highly EXPERIENCED MECHANICS and experts on Turbocharged 2jz Engines to answer your questions. I'm out... go find another post you can hack and add more useless info to add to your 17,000 posts.
11-02-23, 09:59 AM
#19
Driver
Thread Starter
Sure you can use them... make sure they are in a cooler heat range than stock application or your car will run like crap on boost. You can try a few different heat ranges, but it can get expensive at $25.00 buck a pop or more for iridium plugs. Copper plugs are $2.50 to $5.00 each. You can pick your poison.
11-02-23, 10:07 AM
#20
Yes, the stock fuel cut happens around 12.5 PSI. The stock Toyota ECU runs on the rich side which (along with the MAF Sensor) allows the engine to run at higher boost levels without going lean. As long as you don't go above 18 PSI you should be ok.
I highly recommend going to www.supraforums.com and ask your questions there. Years of information from experts who've done it... rather than just read about it.
I highly recommend going to www.supraforums.com and ask your questions there. Years of information from experts who've done it... rather than just read about it.
11-02-23, 01:20 PM
#21
Driver
Thread Starter
Yes, the stock fuel cut happens around 12.5 PSI. The stock Toyota ECU runs on the rich side which (along with the MAF Sensor) allows the engine to run at higher boost levels without going lean. As long as you don't go above 18 PSI you should be ok.
I highly recommend going to www.supraforums.com and ask your questions there. Years of information from experts who've done it... rather than just read about it.
I highly recommend going to www.supraforums.com and ask your questions there. Years of information from experts who've done it... rather than just read about it.
11-02-23, 02:30 PM
#22
My previous car was a 2015 m235i. I did some bolt ons, tuned it with my phone and then bam. Power. I壇 love to get my Aristo to around that 400hp mark but there is so much new information out there I致e never even heard of and I知 simply overwhelmed.
My first question is the ECU. Do I need an aftermarket ECU for 400hp? Do I need a piggyback to go onto the ECU? And do I need a tune to make that figure? I致e also read on people running fuel cut defenders and boost controllers and what not, are those necessary? Do I need any other actual bolt ons besides an exhaust and intake? Does the exhaust need to have a catless downpipe? At one point would you need to install a FMIC?
I apologize for the barrage of questions. I feel extremely lost and would love some straightforward answers. Thank you for taking the time to read and if you have any information at all, I would love to hear it.
Thanks.
My first question is the ECU. Do I need an aftermarket ECU for 400hp? Do I need a piggyback to go onto the ECU? And do I need a tune to make that figure? I致e also read on people running fuel cut defenders and boost controllers and what not, are those necessary? Do I need any other actual bolt ons besides an exhaust and intake? Does the exhaust need to have a catless downpipe? At one point would you need to install a FMIC?
I apologize for the barrage of questions. I feel extremely lost and would love some straightforward answers. Thank you for taking the time to read and if you have any information at all, I would love to hear it.
Thanks.
Post here also to ask.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...n-1992-2000-6/
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...aintenance-33/
11-02-23, 02:48 PM
#23
Driver
Thread Starter
11-02-23, 03:05 PM
#24
I was able to pick mine up for 15k and 60k miles! It痴 pretty clean so it seemed like a good deal to me. I can also see them taking off in value one day.
I don稚 have to worry about passing emissions where I am so I think I知 going to go with Whifbitz catless downpipe. Hopefully in the future I値l go single turbo and then I知 thinking I値l have to have a custom downpipe made because I can稚 find any anywhere for a single turbo Aristo. So do you recommend a fuel cut defender? And also, I致e heard after you free up the exhaust you need to add a restrictor to not over boost, how true is that? Thanks!
I don稚 have to worry about passing emissions where I am so I think I知 going to go with Whifbitz catless downpipe. Hopefully in the future I値l go single turbo and then I知 thinking I値l have to have a custom downpipe made because I can稚 find any anywhere for a single turbo Aristo. So do you recommend a fuel cut defender? And also, I致e heard after you free up the exhaust you need to add a restrictor to not over boost, how true is that? Thanks!
Powerhouse Racing has been working on some things - might give them a ring to see what they have or can make. I think I used a Supra downpipe and modified slightly to work for mine. I know a lot of people use a fuel cut defender, and I expect it would work just fine. I went to a Haltech ECU, so that defeats the fuel cut / speed limiter. I kept the stock downpipe with the stock twins, and didn't have any issue with overboost, but do remember reading something about it a long time back. It seems to be an issue on most any turbo car forum though - some people suffer, some don't.
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PinnySkenis (11-02-23)
11-03-23, 09:27 AM
#26
Enthusiasts have made 500 HP on USDM Supra MK IVs since the '90s. This isn't something new or rocket science. With the same simple formula, you can make 400 hp on the JDM Supra MK IV (or Aristo).
1. Exhaust
2. Boost Controller
3. Intake (Air Filter)
You can spend all kinds of more money on things you don't need for 400 HP or you can do what hundreds of others have already done. Start looking at Supra Websites for information on 2jz gte upgrades.
1. Exhaust
2. Boost Controller
3. Intake (Air Filter)
You can spend all kinds of more money on things you don't need for 400 HP or you can do what hundreds of others have already done. Start looking at Supra Websites for information on 2jz gte upgrades.
11-06-23, 08:37 PM
#27
Driver
Thread Starter
As an owner of 2 Aristos, I can say from first-hand experience that 400 hp is not that difficult to achieve. You need a 3" Exhaust and Down Pipe, Drop In Air Filter (K&N or What have you), Fuel Cut Defender and a Boost controller. I went with a blitz electronic one which is highly recommended from the old school 2j forums. You will also have to go to a colder range of spark plugs to keep out of pre-ignition. Keep boost below 18 psi and you are good to go.
11-07-23, 01:41 AM
#28
Intermediate
The ecu may be a Tom's. Apparently there were 2 versions for the immobilizer and two for non imm cars.
one was for the VA300 from factory. The other an upgrade via dealer. Boostcut is higher. Can't remember but I run a Tom's ecu too and do about 20 with a single turbo.
You might want to ck the ecu and see what you got. 3 ten bolts for the cover and two more to lift out and check.
Electronic boost control is the way to go as it helps the low end a lot.
one was for the VA300 from factory. The other an upgrade via dealer. Boostcut is higher. Can't remember but I run a Tom's ecu too and do about 20 with a single turbo.
You might want to ck the ecu and see what you got. 3 ten bolts for the cover and two more to lift out and check.
Electronic boost control is the way to go as it helps the low end a lot.
11-07-23, 07:25 AM
#29
Driver
Thread Starter
The ecu may be a Tom's. Apparently there were 2 versions for the immobilizer and two for non imm cars.
one was for the VA300 from factory. The other an upgrade via dealer. Boostcut is higher. Can't remember but I run a Tom's ecu too and do about 20 with a single turbo.
You might want to ck the ecu and see what you got. 3 ten bolts for the cover and two more to lift out and check.
Electronic boost control is the way to go as it helps the low end a lot.
one was for the VA300 from factory. The other an upgrade via dealer. Boostcut is higher. Can't remember but I run a Tom's ecu too and do about 20 with a single turbo.
You might want to ck the ecu and see what you got. 3 ten bolts for the cover and two more to lift out and check.
Electronic boost control is the way to go as it helps the low end a lot.
11-07-23, 09:32 AM
#30
It would be best if you stopped overthinking this. First of all, you won't get a Check Engine light on with the 3" exhaust. I put a high flow 3" cat on mine to keep the smell down BUT there is only 1 O2 Sensor on the Aristo and it's on the exhaust manifold BEFORE the stock cat. Whether you run a cat or not you will not get a CEL.
Second, I seriously doubt you have anything but a stock ecu. Toyota made an excellent ecu; you do not need to change it or add a piggyback for 400 hp.
Third, just get your exhaust made and installed then go from there. That is the MOST significant modification and you will feel a huge difference. Once that's done you will know if you need a Boost Cut Defender (once you hit boost cut and it scares the crap out of you cause you think you killed your car you'll know the answer), a boost controller or whatever other crap people who have no more real experience than you do, are recommending you get. Find a shop that can make your downpipe, find a company that sells a nice cat back exhaust, and then get it installed. Oh yeah... change all your fluids, (Engine, Transmission, Rear End) and make sure your can is in good mechanical shape BEFORE you mod it.
Second, I seriously doubt you have anything but a stock ecu. Toyota made an excellent ecu; you do not need to change it or add a piggyback for 400 hp.
Third, just get your exhaust made and installed then go from there. That is the MOST significant modification and you will feel a huge difference. Once that's done you will know if you need a Boost Cut Defender (once you hit boost cut and it scares the crap out of you cause you think you killed your car you'll know the answer), a boost controller or whatever other crap people who have no more real experience than you do, are recommending you get. Find a shop that can make your downpipe, find a company that sells a nice cat back exhaust, and then get it installed. Oh yeah... change all your fluids, (Engine, Transmission, Rear End) and make sure your can is in good mechanical shape BEFORE you mod it.