Just bought a 1998 Aristo, shooting for ~400hp and I知 helplessly lost.
11-07-23, 09:47 AM
#31
Driver
Thread Starter
It would be best if you stopped overthinking this. First of all, you won't get a Check Engine light on with the 3" exhaust. I put a high flow 3" cat on mine to keep the smell down BUT there is only 1 O2 Sensor on the Aristo and it's on the exhaust manifold BEFORE the stock cat. Whether you run a cat or not you will not get a CEL.
Second, I seriously doubt you have anything but a stock ecu. Toyota made an excellent ecu; you do not need to change it or add a piggyback for 400 hp.
Third, just get your exhaust made and installed then go from there. That is the MOST significant modification and you will feel a huge difference. Once that's done you will know if you need a Boost Cut Defender (once you hit boost cut and it scares the crap out of you cause you think you killed your car you'll know the answer), a boost controller or whatever other crap people who have no more real experience than you do, are recommending you get. Find a shop that can make your downpipe, find a company that sells a nice cat back exhaust, and then get it installed. Oh yeah... change all your fluids, (Engine, Transmission, Rear End) and make sure your can is in good mechanical shape BEFORE you mod it.
Second, I seriously doubt you have anything but a stock ecu. Toyota made an excellent ecu; you do not need to change it or add a piggyback for 400 hp.
Third, just get your exhaust made and installed then go from there. That is the MOST significant modification and you will feel a huge difference. Once that's done you will know if you need a Boost Cut Defender (once you hit boost cut and it scares the crap out of you cause you think you killed your car you'll know the answer), a boost controller or whatever other crap people who have no more real experience than you do, are recommending you get. Find a shop that can make your downpipe, find a company that sells a nice cat back exhaust, and then get it installed. Oh yeah... change all your fluids, (Engine, Transmission, Rear End) and make sure your can is in good mechanical shape BEFORE you mod it.
11-07-23, 03:34 PM
#33
Driver
Thread Starter
11-07-23, 04:57 PM
#34
Intermediate
Assuming you have a Tom's ecu. Fuel and boost cut should be around 18psi.
Used Aristos usually have problems with one turbo not coming on when it should.
I recall from zero at wot, boost should start around 2000 rpm and kick a bit at about 3500. Visible on the guage.
osolenoids and hoses tend to fail on the stick setup after 20yrs plus. So you should take a loom at the guage to get a feel for if they are working. You should see 14 psi with Tom's. As I said b4 I am single and did not stay sequential for too long but I did run 14.7 psi or so on the Tom's. Which incidentally goes with the 440 JDM injectors just fine.
SturbosSuprahas some diagrams of the sequential setup that may be useful.
As I understand it, the system is like turbo one is live from the getgo and via the ecu,a solenoid will open to route boost from the 2nd turbo. Whether or nor both exhaust turbines are on from the get go I don't know but for sure the compressor side is split in two and the evu opens a solenoid to add boost to the 1st turbo.
I never figured if the front was #1 or the back. when i started removing i realized the pita it was to do so i went single.
I went small to keep low end intact. Borg 177257.
I'm still fiddling as I'm not too happy with the low end. I use a profec and still have to tinker a bit aiming for 18psi
I do have second thoughts about dissing the sequential but here I am.
Long story short. Make sure both turbos are coming online and boost guage should give you an indication. Tom's ecu went to 14 or more before boost cut
Used Aristos usually have problems with one turbo not coming on when it should.
I recall from zero at wot, boost should start around 2000 rpm and kick a bit at about 3500. Visible on the guage.
osolenoids and hoses tend to fail on the stick setup after 20yrs plus. So you should take a loom at the guage to get a feel for if they are working. You should see 14 psi with Tom's. As I said b4 I am single and did not stay sequential for too long but I did run 14.7 psi or so on the Tom's. Which incidentally goes with the 440 JDM injectors just fine.
SturbosSuprahas some diagrams of the sequential setup that may be useful.
As I understand it, the system is like turbo one is live from the getgo and via the ecu,a solenoid will open to route boost from the 2nd turbo. Whether or nor both exhaust turbines are on from the get go I don't know but for sure the compressor side is split in two and the evu opens a solenoid to add boost to the 1st turbo.
I never figured if the front was #1 or the back. when i started removing i realized the pita it was to do so i went single.
I went small to keep low end intact. Borg 177257.
I'm still fiddling as I'm not too happy with the low end. I use a profec and still have to tinker a bit aiming for 18psi
I do have second thoughts about dissing the sequential but here I am.
Long story short. Make sure both turbos are coming online and boost guage should give you an indication. Tom's ecu went to 14 or more before boost cut
11-08-23, 10:10 AM
#35
Did you check your oil level? What type and weight of Oil are you using? How many km are on the vehicle? Is your Radiator Black or a Greenish Olive color?
10 psi of Oil Pressure per 1000 rpm is the bare minimum. Typically you should be at 20 psi at idle at stock 650 rpm and 750 rpm with the Air Conditioning on. Stock Toyota recommends 10w30 and of course, full synthetic is a must. If you aren't sure about what type of oil and weight are in the car change it now. (You should have already anyway).
Stock sequential boost hits on the first turbo at 2000 rpm and dips at 3500 as the second turbo spools up, then comes in at 4000 rpm. Stock max boost level is 12 psi with boost cut at 14 psi.
Again... go to www.supraforums.com to learn everything you need. 2jz GTE experts are there. Just type your question in the search bar and voila!
10 psi of Oil Pressure per 1000 rpm is the bare minimum. Typically you should be at 20 psi at idle at stock 650 rpm and 750 rpm with the Air Conditioning on. Stock Toyota recommends 10w30 and of course, full synthetic is a must. If you aren't sure about what type of oil and weight are in the car change it now. (You should have already anyway).
Stock sequential boost hits on the first turbo at 2000 rpm and dips at 3500 as the second turbo spools up, then comes in at 4000 rpm. Stock max boost level is 12 psi with boost cut at 14 psi.
Again... go to www.supraforums.com to learn everything you need. 2jz GTE experts are there. Just type your question in the search bar and voila!
11-08-23, 11:28 AM
#36
Driver
Thread Starter
Did you check your oil level? What type and weight of Oil are you using? How many km are on the vehicle? Is your Radiator Black or a Greenish Olive color?
10 psi of Oil Pressure per 1000 rpm is the bare minimum. Typically you should be at 20 psi at idle at stock 650 rpm and 750 rpm with the Air Conditioning on. Stock Toyota recommends 10w30 and of course, full synthetic is a must. If you aren't sure about what type of oil and weight are in the car change it now. (You should have already anyway).
Stock sequential boost hits on the first turbo at 2000 rpm and dips at 3500 as the second turbo spools up, then comes in at 4000 rpm. Stock max boost level is 12 psi with boost cut at 14 psi.
Again... go to www.supraforums.com to learn everything you need. 2jz GTE experts are there. Just type your question in the search bar and voila!
10 psi of Oil Pressure per 1000 rpm is the bare minimum. Typically you should be at 20 psi at idle at stock 650 rpm and 750 rpm with the Air Conditioning on. Stock Toyota recommends 10w30 and of course, full synthetic is a must. If you aren't sure about what type of oil and weight are in the car change it now. (You should have already anyway).
Stock sequential boost hits on the first turbo at 2000 rpm and dips at 3500 as the second turbo spools up, then comes in at 4000 rpm. Stock max boost level is 12 psi with boost cut at 14 psi.
Again... go to www.supraforums.com to learn everything you need. 2jz GTE experts are there. Just type your question in the search bar and voila!
Last edited by PinnySkenis; 11-08-23 at 12:28 PM.
11-08-23, 12:40 PM
#37
Since your oil light is flickering at idle, put more oil in and bring it up to the top dot on the dipstick. I always keep my oil level there and hopefully, it will cure your oil light problem.
11-08-23, 12:47 PM
#38
Driver
Thread Starter
11-11-23, 08:03 AM
#39
Driver
Thread Starter
Assuming you have a Tom's ecu. Fuel and boost cut should be around 18psi.
Used Aristos usually have problems with one turbo not coming on when it should.
I recall from zero at wot, boost should start around 2000 rpm and kick a bit at about 3500. Visible on the guage.
osolenoids and hoses tend to fail on the stick setup after 20yrs plus. So you should take a loom at the guage to get a feel for if they are working. You should see 14 psi with Tom's. As I said b4 I am single and did not stay sequential for too long but I did run 14.7 psi or so on the Tom's. Which incidentally goes with the 440 JDM injectors just fine.
SturbosSuprahas some diagrams of the sequential setup that may be useful.
As I understand it, the system is like turbo one is live from the getgo and via the ecu,a solenoid will open to route boost from the 2nd turbo. Whether or nor both exhaust turbines are on from the get go I don't know but for sure the compressor side is split in two and the evu opens a solenoid to add boost to the 1st turbo.
I never figured if the front was #1 or the back. when i started removing i realized the pita it was to do so i went single.
I went small to keep low end intact. Borg 177257.
I'm still fiddling as I'm not too happy with the low end. I use a profec and still have to tinker a bit aiming for 18psi
I do have second thoughts about dissing the sequential but here I am.
Long story short. Make sure both turbos are coming online and boost guage should give you an indication. Tom's ecu went to 14 or more before boost cut
Used Aristos usually have problems with one turbo not coming on when it should.
I recall from zero at wot, boost should start around 2000 rpm and kick a bit at about 3500. Visible on the guage.
osolenoids and hoses tend to fail on the stick setup after 20yrs plus. So you should take a loom at the guage to get a feel for if they are working. You should see 14 psi with Tom's. As I said b4 I am single and did not stay sequential for too long but I did run 14.7 psi or so on the Tom's. Which incidentally goes with the 440 JDM injectors just fine.
SturbosSuprahas some diagrams of the sequential setup that may be useful.
As I understand it, the system is like turbo one is live from the getgo and via the ecu,a solenoid will open to route boost from the 2nd turbo. Whether or nor both exhaust turbines are on from the get go I don't know but for sure the compressor side is split in two and the evu opens a solenoid to add boost to the 1st turbo.
I never figured if the front was #1 or the back. when i started removing i realized the pita it was to do so i went single.
I went small to keep low end intact. Borg 177257.
I'm still fiddling as I'm not too happy with the low end. I use a profec and still have to tinker a bit aiming for 18psi
I do have second thoughts about dissing the sequential but here I am.
Long story short. Make sure both turbos are coming online and boost guage should give you an indication. Tom's ecu went to 14 or more before boost cut
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