Just bought a 1998 Aristo, shooting for ~400hp and I知 helplessly lost.
10-30-23, 10:03 PM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Just bought a 1998 Aristo, shooting for ~400hp and I知 helplessly lost.
My previous car was a 2015 m235i. I did some bolt ons, tuned it with my phone and then bam. Power. I壇 love to get my Aristo to around that 400hp mark but there is so much new information out there I致e never even heard of and I知 simply overwhelmed.
My first question is the ECU. Do I need an aftermarket ECU for 400hp? Do I need a piggyback to go onto the ECU? And do I need a tune to make that figure? I致e also read on people running fuel cut defenders and boost controllers and what not, are those necessary? Do I need any other actual bolt ons besides an exhaust and intake? Does the exhaust need to have a catless downpipe? At one point would you need to install a FMIC?
I apologize for the barrage of questions. I feel extremely lost and would love some straightforward answers. Thank you for taking the time to read and if you have any information at all, I would love to hear it.
Thanks.
My first question is the ECU. Do I need an aftermarket ECU for 400hp? Do I need a piggyback to go onto the ECU? And do I need a tune to make that figure? I致e also read on people running fuel cut defenders and boost controllers and what not, are those necessary? Do I need any other actual bolt ons besides an exhaust and intake? Does the exhaust need to have a catless downpipe? At one point would you need to install a FMIC?
I apologize for the barrage of questions. I feel extremely lost and would love some straightforward answers. Thank you for taking the time to read and if you have any information at all, I would love to hear it.
Thanks.
10-31-23, 02:20 AM
#2
Intermediate
What I think I know about Jzs161 Aristo .
jdm only so not much publications in English.
the injectors are 440ccs so 400 hp is fine.
Stock turbos ceramic turbines can shatter over 14 psi boost. But 14 psi should give you close to 400.. (stand to be corrected)
Search forum for BPU which has you put the twins in non sequential but gives more hp. I think up to about 400.
Stock ecu is good for that I know..
A good electronic boost controller on the twins would do well no piggy back required.
Next step.. Single turbo. Limiting factor 440cc injectors so don't go too big and suffer lag unnecessarily.
A340E trans good for I think 500hp the forums say but torque is what really matters with trannys. Ck forums to confirm all this.
The stick ecu has a boost cut and a speed cut. Speed at 180kmh or 113mph. To override Hks Speed cut defender or similar as well as FUel cut defender. But the fuel cut saves the stick turbos.
Most of above I got from forums and my experience. Some may be subject to correction but it is a start for you to confirm using forum.
Welcome to a great platform and PowerPoint.
jdm only so not much publications in English.
the injectors are 440ccs so 400 hp is fine.
Stock turbos ceramic turbines can shatter over 14 psi boost. But 14 psi should give you close to 400.. (stand to be corrected)
Search forum for BPU which has you put the twins in non sequential but gives more hp. I think up to about 400.
Stock ecu is good for that I know..
A good electronic boost controller on the twins would do well no piggy back required.
Next step.. Single turbo. Limiting factor 440cc injectors so don't go too big and suffer lag unnecessarily.
A340E trans good for I think 500hp the forums say but torque is what really matters with trannys. Ck forums to confirm all this.
The stick ecu has a boost cut and a speed cut. Speed at 180kmh or 113mph. To override Hks Speed cut defender or similar as well as FUel cut defender. But the fuel cut saves the stick turbos.
Most of above I got from forums and my experience. Some may be subject to correction but it is a start for you to confirm using forum.
Welcome to a great platform and PowerPoint.
10-31-23, 07:11 AM
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
What I think I know about Jzs161 Aristo .
jdm only so not much publications in English.
the injectors are 440ccs so 400 hp is fine.
Stock turbos ceramic turbines can shatter over 14 psi boost. But 14 psi should give you close to 400.. (stand to be corrected)
Search forum for BPU which has you put the twins in non sequential but gives more hp. I think up to about 400.
Stock ecu is good for that I know..
A good electronic boost controller on the twins would do well no piggy back required.
Next step.. Single turbo. Limiting factor 440cc injectors so don't go too big and suffer lag unnecessarily.
A340E trans good for I think 500hp the forums say but torque is what really matters with trannys. Ck forums to confirm all this.
The stick ecu has a boost cut and a speed cut. Speed at 180kmh or 113mph. To override Hks Speed cut defender or similar as well as FUel cut defender. But the fuel cut saves the stick turbos.
Most of above I got from forums and my experience. Some may be subject to correction but it is a start for you to confirm using forum.
Welcome to a great platform and PowerPoint.
jdm only so not much publications in English.
the injectors are 440ccs so 400 hp is fine.
Stock turbos ceramic turbines can shatter over 14 psi boost. But 14 psi should give you close to 400.. (stand to be corrected)
Search forum for BPU which has you put the twins in non sequential but gives more hp. I think up to about 400.
Stock ecu is good for that I know..
A good electronic boost controller on the twins would do well no piggy back required.
Next step.. Single turbo. Limiting factor 440cc injectors so don't go too big and suffer lag unnecessarily.
A340E trans good for I think 500hp the forums say but torque is what really matters with trannys. Ck forums to confirm all this.
The stick ecu has a boost cut and a speed cut. Speed at 180kmh or 113mph. To override Hks Speed cut defender or similar as well as FUel cut defender. But the fuel cut saves the stick turbos.
Most of above I got from forums and my experience. Some may be subject to correction but it is a start for you to confirm using forum.
Welcome to a great platform and PowerPoint.
11-01-23, 05:42 AM
#4
Surely the car must have some modifications already if the seller claims a special ECU is installed? The most popular mods to a stock GTE are a big single turbo and a front mount intercooler. That involves a downpipe/exhaust as well typically. Tuning equipment is always prefered, but you should be ok for 400hp if you are willing to run a manual boost controller and do things to avoid spending money on tuning equipment. But you will need a tunable ECU, be it standalone or piggyback, to control an electronic boost controller and to really get proper fuelling etc. You are probably better off locating a local tuner and introducing yourself/car and plans, then move forward with his advice. Part of the battle is finding someone willing to work with your modified car. You will want to use his prefered tuning equipment etc.
11-01-23, 08:01 AM
#5
First off - cool car, great choice. I can't say I don't scratch my head at these $16-$20k Aristo TTs and think to myself, "why the hell not?". But I guess the answer lies in my my Aristo-swapped GS in a garage 3 hours away from me and no time to tend to another moneypit. I think they'll be appreciating assets though, and are set to rise in value.
It's been a minute - 400 HP - Spend some time on google and there's a lot of great info here on CL. Unlike your BMW (I had an Evo that was similar - flash a tune and go), these old ECUs aren't able to be modified. Anything you do will be a bolt-on electronic device to either steal or modify the signals the stock ECU is getting and sending.
If you want a pick-up in power, I'd start with a boost controller, even a manual one, a boost gauge, a wideband, a drop in high-flow air filter, and free-flowing exhaust and see where that gets you. If I remember correctly, in order to get both turbos to hit target boost increase, I had to line them up in parallel. You lose a noticeable amount of bottom end when you do this, but the top end is a much harder hit. Search the supra forums, you'll find a ton of info about it there in terms of how-to's. Tick up the boost gently - I'd expect you'll hit fuel cut before you find the limit of the injectors, but the wideband would be good for ensuring things are staying well watered there in the cylinders. Cold drives will be where you find that fuel cut first, just so you're somewhat prepared.
Depending on what state you're in / inspections, either no cat or a high-flow cat would help too along with a downpipe. Above comment about the ceramic wheels is accurate. But I think you can probably boost it a little higher. I think I had mine up around 18 or so. If you want to keep twins, a USDM Supra set will have stainless wheels or you could have yours rebuilt. However, most people go with a single for good reason. If you invest in a downpipe for the twins, it will not fit a single turbo, so as you think about your upgrade path, keep that in mind. Front mount would be helpful, especially as you crank the boost on those little twins. Your trans will be safe on the stock twins.
I never pushed my stock ECU too far. I swapped ECU even before I swapped my turbo because I knew where I was headed with power, needing larger injectors, etc.
A few of us still lurk here, and IMO it's a far superior platform for knowledge cataloging/sharing than the FB groups, but you might also find some stuff out there. Good luck!
It's been a minute - 400 HP - Spend some time on google and there's a lot of great info here on CL. Unlike your BMW (I had an Evo that was similar - flash a tune and go), these old ECUs aren't able to be modified. Anything you do will be a bolt-on electronic device to either steal or modify the signals the stock ECU is getting and sending.
If you want a pick-up in power, I'd start with a boost controller, even a manual one, a boost gauge, a wideband, a drop in high-flow air filter, and free-flowing exhaust and see where that gets you. If I remember correctly, in order to get both turbos to hit target boost increase, I had to line them up in parallel. You lose a noticeable amount of bottom end when you do this, but the top end is a much harder hit. Search the supra forums, you'll find a ton of info about it there in terms of how-to's. Tick up the boost gently - I'd expect you'll hit fuel cut before you find the limit of the injectors, but the wideband would be good for ensuring things are staying well watered there in the cylinders. Cold drives will be where you find that fuel cut first, just so you're somewhat prepared.
Depending on what state you're in / inspections, either no cat or a high-flow cat would help too along with a downpipe. Above comment about the ceramic wheels is accurate. But I think you can probably boost it a little higher. I think I had mine up around 18 or so. If you want to keep twins, a USDM Supra set will have stainless wheels or you could have yours rebuilt. However, most people go with a single for good reason. If you invest in a downpipe for the twins, it will not fit a single turbo, so as you think about your upgrade path, keep that in mind. Front mount would be helpful, especially as you crank the boost on those little twins. Your trans will be safe on the stock twins.I never pushed my stock ECU too far. I swapped ECU even before I swapped my turbo because I knew where I was headed with power, needing larger injectors, etc.
A few of us still lurk here, and IMO it's a far superior platform for knowledge cataloging/sharing than the FB groups, but you might also find some stuff out there. Good luck!
Last edited by KyleH; 11-01-23 at 08:07 AM.
11-01-23, 09:44 AM
#6
As an owner of 2 Aristos, I can say from first-hand experience that 400 hp is not that difficult to achieve. You need a 3" Exhaust and Down Pipe, Drop In Air Filter (K&N or What have you), Fuel Cut Defender and a Boost controller. I went with a blitz electronic one which is highly recommended from the old school 2j forums. You will also have to go to a colder range of spark plugs to keep out of pre-ignition. Keep boost below 18 psi and you are good to go.
11-01-23, 03:43 PM
#7
Driver
Thread Starter
Surely the car must have some modifications already if the seller claims a special ECU is installed? The most popular mods to a stock GTE are a big single turbo and a front mount intercooler. That involves a downpipe/exhaust as well typically. Tuning equipment is always prefered, but you should be ok for 400hp if you are willing to run a manual boost controller and do things to avoid spending money on tuning equipment. But you will need a tunable ECU, be it standalone or piggyback, to control an electronic boost controller and to really get proper fuelling etc. You are probably better off locating a local tuner and introducing yourself/car and plans, then move forward with his advice. Part of the battle is finding someone willing to work with your modified car. You will want to use his prefered tuning equipment etc.
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11-01-23, 03:47 PM
#8
Driver
Thread Starter
First off - cool car, great choice. I can't say I don't scratch my head at these $16-$20k Aristo TTs and think to myself, "why the hell not?". But I guess the answer lies in my my Aristo-swapped GS in a garage 3 hours away from me and no time to tend to another moneypit. I think they'll be appreciating assets though, and are set to rise in value.
It's been a minute - 400 HP - Spend some time on google and there's a lot of great info here on CL. Unlike your BMW (I had an Evo that was similar - flash a tune and go), these old ECUs aren't able to be modified. Anything you do will be a bolt-on electronic device to either steal or modify the signals the stock ECU is getting and sending.
If you want a pick-up in power, I'd start with a boost controller, even a manual one, a boost gauge, a wideband, a drop in high-flow air filter, and free-flowing exhaust and see where that gets you. If I remember correctly, in order to get both turbos to hit target boost increase, I had to line them up in parallel. You lose a noticeable amount of bottom end when you do this, but the top end is a much harder hit. Search the supra forums, you'll find a ton of info about it there in terms of how-to's. Tick up the boost gently - I'd expect you'll hit fuel cut before you find the limit of the injectors, but the wideband would be good for ensuring things are staying well watered there in the cylinders. Cold drives will be where you find that fuel cut first, just so you're somewhat prepared. Depending on what state you're in / inspections, either no cat or a high-flow cat would help too along with a downpipe. Above comment about the ceramic wheels is accurate. But I think you can probably boost it a little higher. I think I had mine up around 18 or so. If you want to keep twins, a USDM Supra set will have stainless wheels or you could have yours rebuilt. However, most people go with a single for good reason. If you invest in a downpipe for the twins, it will not fit a single turbo, so as you think about your upgrade path, keep that in mind. Front mount would be helpful, especially as you crank the boost on those little twins. Your trans will be safe on the stock twins.
I never pushed my stock ECU too far. I swapped ECU even before I swapped my turbo because I knew where I was headed with power, needing larger injectors, etc.
A few of us still lurk here, and IMO it's a far superior platform for knowledge cataloging/sharing than the FB groups, but you might also find some stuff out there. Good luck!
It's been a minute - 400 HP - Spend some time on google and there's a lot of great info here on CL. Unlike your BMW (I had an Evo that was similar - flash a tune and go), these old ECUs aren't able to be modified. Anything you do will be a bolt-on electronic device to either steal or modify the signals the stock ECU is getting and sending.
If you want a pick-up in power, I'd start with a boost controller, even a manual one, a boost gauge, a wideband, a drop in high-flow air filter, and free-flowing exhaust and see where that gets you. If I remember correctly, in order to get both turbos to hit target boost increase, I had to line them up in parallel. You lose a noticeable amount of bottom end when you do this, but the top end is a much harder hit. Search the supra forums, you'll find a ton of info about it there in terms of how-to's. Tick up the boost gently - I'd expect you'll hit fuel cut before you find the limit of the injectors, but the wideband would be good for ensuring things are staying well watered there in the cylinders. Cold drives will be where you find that fuel cut first, just so you're somewhat prepared.
Depending on what state you're in / inspections, either no cat or a high-flow cat would help too along with a downpipe. Above comment about the ceramic wheels is accurate. But I think you can probably boost it a little higher. I think I had mine up around 18 or so. If you want to keep twins, a USDM Supra set will have stainless wheels or you could have yours rebuilt. However, most people go with a single for good reason. If you invest in a downpipe for the twins, it will not fit a single turbo, so as you think about your upgrade path, keep that in mind. Front mount would be helpful, especially as you crank the boost on those little twins. Your trans will be safe on the stock twins.I never pushed my stock ECU too far. I swapped ECU even before I swapped my turbo because I knew where I was headed with power, needing larger injectors, etc.
A few of us still lurk here, and IMO it's a far superior platform for knowledge cataloging/sharing than the FB groups, but you might also find some stuff out there. Good luck!
I don稚 have to worry about passing emissions where I am so I think I知 going to go with Whifbitz catless downpipe. Hopefully in the future I値l go single turbo and then I知 thinking I値l have to have a custom downpipe made because I can稚 find any anywhere for a single turbo Aristo. So do you recommend a fuel cut defender? And also, I致e heard after you free up the exhaust you need to add a restrictor to not over boost, how true is that? Thanks!
Last edited by PinnySkenis; 11-01-23 at 03:51 PM.
11-01-23, 03:50 PM
#9
Driver
Thread Starter
As an owner of 2 Aristos, I can say from first-hand experience that 400 hp is not that difficult to achieve. You need a 3" Exhaust and Down Pipe, Drop In Air Filter (K&N or What have you), Fuel Cut Defender and a Boost controller. I went with a blitz electronic one which is highly recommended from the old school 2j forums. You will also have to go to a colder range of spark plugs to keep out of pre-ignition. Keep boost below 18 psi and you are good to go.
Last edited by PinnySkenis; 11-01-23 at 06:41 PM.
11-01-23, 06:34 PM
#10
You don't need restrictor rings, you won't boost spike or over-boost with the stock JDM exhaust manifold. I always useNKG BKR7E 6097
Gap .032 or 0.7 mm
Spark Plugs. They are copper and not expensive. Copper has a much better conductivity than platinum or iridium. Plus if you do have a detonation problem they will fail before you melt a piston or damage a head.
Gap .032 or 0.7 mm
Spark Plugs. They are copper and not expensive. Copper has a much better conductivity than platinum or iridium. Plus if you do have a detonation problem they will fail before you melt a piston or damage a head.
11-01-23, 06:44 PM
#11
Lexus Champion
11-02-23, 08:50 AM
#12
Ah! The Peanut Gallery has spoken! Actually, it does make a difference. Since Copper is more conductive it has less Resistance. This means it runs cooler than other Spark Plugs. Cooler running plugs mean less chance for detonation and misfiring. This is VERY beneficial to Turbo Charged or other high-performance applications. The downside is Copper Plugs don't last as long as Platinum or Iridium. But they are far cheaper and on a 2jz very easy to access and change.
11-02-23, 08:58 AM
#13
Driver
Thread Starter
Ah! The Peanut Gallery has spoken! Actually, it does make a difference. Since Copper is more conductive it has less Resistance. This means it runs cooler than other Spark Plugs. Cooler running plugs mean less chance for detonation and misfiring. This is VERY beneficial to Turbo Charged or other high-performance applications. The downside is Copper Plugs don't last as long as Platinum or Iridium. But they are far cheaper and on a 2jz very easy to access and change.
11-02-23, 09:03 AM
#14
Sure you can use them... make sure they are in a cooler heat range than stock application or your car will run like crap on boost. You can try a few different heat ranges, but it can get expensive at $25.00 buck a pop or more for iridium plugs. Copper plugs are $2.50 to $5.00 each. You can pick your poison.
11-02-23, 09:08 AM
#15
Lexus Champion
Ah! The Peanut Gallery has spoken! Actually, it does make a difference. Since Copper is more conductive it has less Resistance. This means it runs cooler than other Spark Plugs. Cooler running plugs mean less chance for detonation and misfiring. This is VERY beneficial to Turbo Charged or other high-performance applications. The downside is Copper Plugs don't last as long as Platinum or Iridium. But they are far cheaper and on a 2jz very easy to access and change.