How many 1G GS300 with GTE swap out there?
08-09-05 | 07:36 AM
#16
Pole Position
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 236
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From: SoFla
Great stuff, thanks man!
Dont forget to mention that heater core needs loosened before you start banging on the firewall bulge which interferes with the rear turbo charge pipe.
Now, where the ****** are the pics????
Dont forget to mention that heater core needs loosened before you start banging on the firewall bulge which interferes with the rear turbo charge pipe.
Now, where the ****** are the pics????
Originally Posted by cacrawfo
Hello,
I test fit the turbo tranny yesterday, and made sure that the crossmember fits as it should... And I test fit the driveshaft to the car. I am using my stock GS300 driveshaft, but it does not fit directly to the Turbo tranny rear flange. The turbo rear flange is a slightly larger bolt circle, but the GS300 flange bolts on with no issues.... And the driveshaft then bolts to the car no problem. I did some re-packaging of the rear passenger heater hose on the GTE motor, and made some more room for the heater hose as it exits the firewall of the car. This also involves removing a nipple from the rear turbo air inlet so it doe not interfear with the heater hose. This nipple normaly goes through some rubber and hard line to the idle air control valve, but since the car is MAP sensor fueld, we can remove this connection and just put a mini breather filter onto the inlet of the IAC valve. This cleans up this very tight area of the engine and makes the heater plumbing fit much better!
I removed the engine one final time, and now it is time to do the wiring, put the harness on the engine, and put the engine in the car! Trying to put the harness on the engine with it in the car is not easy, so I feel it is better to do it this way.
Since the JDM harness goes to the left hand side of the car, it is too short for the US car. (the US harness enters the right hand side of the car, behind the glovebox.) There are a few way to do the harness work. One way is to cut the JDM harness, and extend evey wire X number of inches. This means doing 2 solder joints per wire. This is potentialy a problem, as several of the wires are shielded for the cam and crank triggers, etc. The less joints the better. What I suggest is to use a large section of the stock harness to extend the JDM harness. The connectors on the ECM end are the same as the JDM, but the JDM harness has a few more wires. Some of these will be removed as they are for the traction control actuator. (which I am not using, as my GS did not have traction control.) The balance of the extra wires can be extended. I believe a few of the wires are probably for the hydraulic fan system, which I will be using.
So, do you guys want pictures yet?
Carl Crawford
I test fit the turbo tranny yesterday, and made sure that the crossmember fits as it should... And I test fit the driveshaft to the car. I am using my stock GS300 driveshaft, but it does not fit directly to the Turbo tranny rear flange. The turbo rear flange is a slightly larger bolt circle, but the GS300 flange bolts on with no issues.... And the driveshaft then bolts to the car no problem. I did some re-packaging of the rear passenger heater hose on the GTE motor, and made some more room for the heater hose as it exits the firewall of the car. This also involves removing a nipple from the rear turbo air inlet so it doe not interfear with the heater hose. This nipple normaly goes through some rubber and hard line to the idle air control valve, but since the car is MAP sensor fueld, we can remove this connection and just put a mini breather filter onto the inlet of the IAC valve. This cleans up this very tight area of the engine and makes the heater plumbing fit much better!
I removed the engine one final time, and now it is time to do the wiring, put the harness on the engine, and put the engine in the car! Trying to put the harness on the engine with it in the car is not easy, so I feel it is better to do it this way.
Since the JDM harness goes to the left hand side of the car, it is too short for the US car. (the US harness enters the right hand side of the car, behind the glovebox.) There are a few way to do the harness work. One way is to cut the JDM harness, and extend evey wire X number of inches. This means doing 2 solder joints per wire. This is potentialy a problem, as several of the wires are shielded for the cam and crank triggers, etc. The less joints the better. What I suggest is to use a large section of the stock harness to extend the JDM harness. The connectors on the ECM end are the same as the JDM, but the JDM harness has a few more wires. Some of these will be removed as they are for the traction control actuator. (which I am not using, as my GS did not have traction control.) The balance of the extra wires can be extended. I believe a few of the wires are probably for the hydraulic fan system, which I will be using.
So, do you guys want pictures yet?
Carl Crawford
09-21-05 | 09:22 PM
#17
Thread Starter
Rookie
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
Hello,
I did not loosen the heater core at all, I did not damage it with my hammer blows either, but your experience may vary....
Here are a few more informative tidbits.... and maybe some pictures....
You will need to use the throttle cable from a 94+ Supra TT. The stock cable is too short. You can use the cruise control cable from your Aristo clip..
To fit a FMIC, you will need to modify the AC piping, namely remove a bracket or 2, and shorten the brackets for the filter/dryer. This packages nicley against the condensor core, and gives you plenty of room to mount an IC. I have a Greddy core with 2.75 connections.
I did not loosen the heater core at all, I did not damage it with my hammer blows either, but your experience may vary....
Here are a few more informative tidbits.... and maybe some pictures....
You will need to use the throttle cable from a 94+ Supra TT. The stock cable is too short. You can use the cruise control cable from your Aristo clip..
To fit a FMIC, you will need to modify the AC piping, namely remove a bracket or 2, and shorten the brackets for the filter/dryer. This packages nicley against the condensor core, and gives you plenty of room to mount an IC. I have a Greddy core with 2.75 connections.
09-21-05 | 09:33 PM
#19
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 70
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From: Illinois
The exhaust is COMPLETELY 304 stainless, from the flanges to the hanger rods.... The downpipe and front section are 3", and the rear section is 2.5'"after is splits to duals. I made the entire exhaust, and it is completely mandrel bent and TIG welded... There is a 3' resonator in the downpipe, and the rear muflers are Vibrant cans with Ti tips. O2 sensor bung in downpipe is for a WB if needed for tuning.
Last edited by cacrawfo; 09-21-05 at 09:47 PM.
09-21-05 | 09:43 PM
#20
Thread Starter
Rookie
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 70
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From: Illinois
The JDM Aristo engine does not have a nipple for the vacume brake booster. The booster, ABS and TRAC system are all integrated, and have an electric vacume pump. I drilled and tapped a hole for a banjo fitting from a 7MGTE Supra. I also drilled and tapped for 2 extra vacume ports to use for my boost gauge and future boost controller. A lot cleaner than having a bunch of T's in a vacume line!
Intercooler piping is 2.5" from turbo outlet to intercooler, and 3" from intercooler to throttle body.
All piping is TIG welded. Some pipes were finished out for cosmetics.. All pipes were painted, as well as the valve covers, intake manifolds, all turbo piping on the engine, and the strut tower brace.
Intercooler piping is 2.5" from turbo outlet to intercooler, and 3" from intercooler to throttle body.
All piping is TIG welded. Some pipes were finished out for cosmetics.. All pipes were painted, as well as the valve covers, intake manifolds, all turbo piping on the engine, and the strut tower brace.
09-21-05 | 09:50 PM
#21
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 70
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From: Illinois
Priming and painting the pipes: bugs sure do like clear-coat!
I think piping can really make or break a job.... Ever see car that has been nicely done, but the piping is for *****? I always take my time to make the piping work with the car...
TIAL BOV, even thought the piping is mild steel, I use the stainless TIAL flange. That way if the V-band clamp rubs scratches the paint, the flange will not rust. I use Vibrant silicone couplings, and a good quality stainless band clamp. T-bolt clamps or other fancyness is only needed on high-psi cars or to mask poor work! I have a good quality bead-roller that puts a nice hose retention bead on the end of the tubing...
I think piping can really make or break a job.... Ever see car that has been nicely done, but the piping is for *****? I always take my time to make the piping work with the car...
TIAL BOV, even thought the piping is mild steel, I use the stainless TIAL flange. That way if the V-band clamp rubs scratches the paint, the flange will not rust. I use Vibrant silicone couplings, and a good quality stainless band clamp. T-bolt clamps or other fancyness is only needed on high-psi cars or to mask poor work! I have a good quality bead-roller that puts a nice hose retention bead on the end of the tubing...
Last edited by cacrawfo; 09-21-05 at 09:53 PM.
09-21-05 | 10:04 PM
#23
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 70
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From: Illinois
The wiring harness was extended exactly 22 inches, and it seems to be the magic number! Brackets from the US ECU were fitted to the new MINES tuned JDM box..
A few extra wires were needed to properly wire the cooling fan ECU to the radiator temp sensor.
A few extra wires were needed to properly wire the cooling fan ECU to the radiator temp sensor.
09-22-05 | 02:35 AM
#25
Driver
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: FL
Nice work, very clean install 
If you are not ready to go single at this time, you need to at least get the USDM steel turbos, a resistor pack and the larger 550cc USDM Supra injectors. You won't see any real power until you do as the Japanese ceramic twins will hardly let you boost to 1 bar ~ 14.5 PSI). Your car at 18lbs of boost will be a completely different animal than it is at 15lbs. Then again, since I don't see a boost cut controller or a boost controller in the pictures. This means that you are probably not boosting past the factory limit of 11lbs at this time. If you try to mess even with an E46 M3 at that power level, he will simply annihilate you. However, add about $500 for USDM turbos, injectors and resistor pack then add another $300 for a boost cut controller (TRL performance highly recommended), manual boost controller and speed limit defencer (HKS Type 2) and the shoe will be on the other foot. You will have picked up another 100+ rwhp and you will simply destroy that M3. 
You gotta love how easy it is to make lots of power with that motor for very little money 
If you are not ready to go single at this time, you need to at least get the USDM steel turbos, a resistor pack and the larger 550cc USDM Supra injectors. You won't see any real power until you do as the Japanese ceramic twins will hardly let you boost to 1 bar ~ 14.5 PSI). Your car at 18lbs of boost will be a completely different animal than it is at 15lbs. Then again, since I don't see a boost cut controller or a boost controller in the pictures. This means that you are probably not boosting past the factory limit of 11lbs at this time. If you try to mess even with an E46 M3 at that power level, he will simply annihilate you. However, add about $500 for USDM turbos, injectors and resistor pack then add another $300 for a boost cut controller (TRL performance highly recommended), manual boost controller and speed limit defencer (HKS Type 2) and the shoe will be on the other foot. You will have picked up another 100+ rwhp and you will simply destroy that M3. You gotta love how easy it is to make lots of power with that motor for very little money
09-22-05 | 08:58 AM
#26
Lexus Champion
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,996
Likes: 6
From: Emerald City
Looks nice You do the Tig Welding yourself ?
Gives me the info I needed about the FMIC I was worried that it wouldnt fit well with the shape of the stock bumper cover. Im not doing a body kit so I want the stocker to look clean.
You do the Tig Welding yourself ?Gives me the info I needed about the FMIC I was worried that it wouldnt fit well with the shape of the stock bumper cover. Im not doing a body kit so I want the stocker to look clean.
09-22-05 | 09:30 AM
#27
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 70
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From: Illinois
BadAss...
I am leaning towards going with the US turbos at some time in the future, before I go full tilt with a single. I will probably get a few more miles on the setup first, log some O2 numbers etc. I need to go a little colder on the plugs, and see what can be done to the trans to firm up the full throttle shifts... it hangs on 1st to 2nd at full mash. Maybe have a stall convertor made... install an LSD...
I will NEVER put a FCD on a speed-density car. I have a MINEs tuned ECU in the car currently that removes speed and fuel cut the proper way.
When I do injectors, I will probably go with a high-impedance top feed in a custom rail..
Do you still have your US twins for sale?
Carl C..
I am leaning towards going with the US turbos at some time in the future, before I go full tilt with a single. I will probably get a few more miles on the setup first, log some O2 numbers etc. I need to go a little colder on the plugs, and see what can be done to the trans to firm up the full throttle shifts... it hangs on 1st to 2nd at full mash. Maybe have a stall convertor made... install an LSD...
I will NEVER put a FCD on a speed-density car. I have a MINEs tuned ECU in the car currently that removes speed and fuel cut the proper way.
When I do injectors, I will probably go with a high-impedance top feed in a custom rail..
Do you still have your US twins for sale?
Carl C..
09-22-05 | 10:10 AM
#28
Driver
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: FL
Originally Posted by cacrawfo
BadAss...
I am leaning towards going with the US turbos at some time in the future, before I go full tilt with a single. I will probably get a few more miles on the setup first, log some O2 numbers etc. I need to go a little colder on the plugs, and see what can be done to the trans to firm up the full throttle shifts... it hangs on 1st to 2nd at full mash. Maybe have a stall convertor made... install an LSD...
I will NEVER put a FCD on a speed-density car. I have a MINEs tuned ECU in the car currently that removes speed and fuel cut the proper way.
When I do injectors, I will probably go with a high-impedance top feed in a custom rail..
Do you still have your US twins for sale?
Carl C..
I am leaning towards going with the US turbos at some time in the future, before I go full tilt with a single. I will probably get a few more miles on the setup first, log some O2 numbers etc. I need to go a little colder on the plugs, and see what can be done to the trans to firm up the full throttle shifts... it hangs on 1st to 2nd at full mash. Maybe have a stall convertor made... install an LSD...
I will NEVER put a FCD on a speed-density car. I have a MINEs tuned ECU in the car currently that removes speed and fuel cut the proper way.
When I do injectors, I will probably go with a high-impedance top feed in a custom rail..
Do you still have your US twins for sale?
Carl C..
Yes, I still have the USDM twins but they would really be a good deal for someone who needs a 3" downpipe for the stock twins. I know you already have a downpipe
I envy your fabrication skills 
If I could make my own stuff, my walet wouldn't be as light as it is now....lol. Keep up the good work.
09-26-05 | 03:43 PM
#29
Sunroof Surfer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,461
Likes: 14
From: new york
NOW THATS CRAZy CLEAN!....... i have my project new aristo project layed out too we need to get together on all this work..... i have picked up my 95 aristo and looking to pull out the 2jzge and go with the US VERSION 2jzgte with twin ball bearing T-88'S ... with 1100cc injectors and hopefully i can start this in november since its gonna be so cold out i hope get started soon! so i can have 2 aristo's 1 does not satisfy me