cacrawfo

Hello,
I am looking to see how many 1G GS300's are out there with the Aristo TT or Supra TT GTE swap. I wanted to ask a few pointed questions, and I am searching for an aristo wiring diagram as well....

I am knee-deep in the swap at the moment..
Carl Crawford

twojayzee

You should post this in the 1st gen forum. I think theres at least one on here. Also on SF's theres one.
(plus I wanted to subscribe to this thread cause i'll be doing mine eventually )

cacrawfo

Hello,
Well, for the looks of it, there are VERY few 1G GS300's out there with a proper GTE swap... I will try my best to chronicle my swap here so there is some good reliable information on it....

I have a 94' GS 300, and am swapping in the 1G Aristo engine from Japan. It is a 2JZ-GTE, and is about "280" HP. It is different than the USDM 2JZ-GTE in a few ways. The JDM 2JZ has smaller injectors (also high impedance), different cams, different turbos, and runs speed-density. (It only has a MAP sensor, no mass air flow meter...)

The Aristo engine is very different than the Supra engine as well, as far as packaging. The Aristo is front-sump, and does not have an engine-driven fan. It uses a hydraulic fan, very much like a V6 Camry or ES300. The major difference is it has a dedicated pump and fluid system for the fan, while the Camry V6 has a dual-purpose power steering pump. The Aristo is NOT offered with a manual transmision.

I am starting with an Aristo front clip, very complete with all accessories, radiator, all electronics, air induction plumbing etc. The Aristo engine is a lot easier to start with for this swap than a Supra engine. If you start with a Supra engine, a lot of things will not be quite right. You would have to swap the complete oil pan and sump, the engine mounts, fuel lines, AC compressor, vacume lines, etc. The packaging is just not the same. By using an Aristo clip, you will save yourself a lot of work.

So does it fit right in? not quite..... Remember, the US car never was offered with this engine, so things are just a little bit different. The ABS actuator on the GS will interfere with the twin turbo system, the rear turbo inlet pipe hits the firewall pretty bad, the passenger side heater core nipple is pretty close to the rear turbo as well.... These are all solvable issues, but it does not just "drop in" like many may suggest. There are quite a few things that will go smoothly though...The AC lines will bolt right up, the fuel hoses are the same, engine mounts line up, looks like the driveshaft and tranny crossmember will bolt right in...

I have done a test-fit with the engine and will be "massaging" the firewall with my JDM pursuader this weekend, re-packaging the ABS, and hopefully getting it to sit in the engine bay. I do not know how much I can push the firewall in, as the AC system and heater core are all back behind this area.

Later!
Carl Crawford

SprtDesign

iTrader: (21)

This is a swap i'de like to do..

bluelex

Here in south Florida we have like 3 or 4 1st gens with full swaps, all of them are the JDM motor you speak of. I only have one pic of this 2jz-gte monster that is also single turbo'd.

cacrawfo

Bluelex,
Thanks for the pic! The engine (longblock) may be from Japan, but the rest of it is USDM... for example, the radiator and shroud indicates that it is running the US engine driven fan, and the electronics are from the US car as well, as evidenced by the ignitor being on the passenger side.... also, the car has the injector resistors, indicating it to be a US engine... Maybe he wanted the 320 HP of the US engine, or had the Supra stuf lying around.


I am about to do a 2nd test fit, I relieved the firewal quite a bit, hopefully it is enough. I got the Aristo powersteering resevoir and hardline installed, so if it goes in smoothly the engine may get to stay in there for a while. I am not sure if the wiring harnes is readily installable with the engine in the car, so it may have to come back out to get that....

Later!
Carl Crawford

twojayzee

Post some pix of the BFH mod . I would like to see what needs to be clearanced.

CTgs300

Wow great project. I'd researched this a bit too. I just rebuilt the stock for now but over the winter my car may get this swap also. Keep us posted!

loonyrobert3

this is awesome you are taking this one yourself!!! any pics yet?? also i think you shoulda gone single turbo upgrade instead of mashing the firewall since you may upgrade down the line!

bluelex by the way any info on who did the swaps here in fla???

thanks
rob

MONSTER

This is going into 93 GS300.

cacrawfo, PLEASE take pics of the firewall modifications needed, I will need it

twojayzee

Its too bad the aristo front clip doesnt come with the dash. That would be kinda cool to convert to RHD.

loonyrobert3

any updates?? how about wiring wat would you rate it on hardness from 1-10???

cacrawfo

Hello,
I test fit the turbo tranny yesterday, and made sure that the crossmember fits as it should... And I test fit the driveshaft to the car. I am using my stock GS300 driveshaft, but it does not fit directly to the Turbo tranny rear flange. The turbo rear flange is a slightly larger bolt circle, but the GS300 flange bolts on with no issues.... And the driveshaft then bolts to the car no problem. I did some re-packaging of the rear passenger heater hose on the GTE motor, and made some more room for the heater hose as it exits the firewall of the car. This also involves removing a nipple from the rear turbo air inlet so it doe not interfear with the heater hose. This nipple normaly goes through some rubber and hard line to the idle air control valve, but since the car is MAP sensor fueld, we can remove this connection and just put a mini breather filter onto the inlet of the IAC valve. This cleans up this very tight area of the engine and makes the heater plumbing fit much better!

I removed the engine one final time, and now it is time to do the wiring, put the harness on the engine, and put the engine in the car! Trying to put the harness on the engine with it in the car is not easy, so I feel it is better to do it this way.

Since the JDM harness goes to the left hand side of the car, it is too short for the US car. (the US harness enters the right hand side of the car, behind the glovebox.) There are a few way to do the harness work. One way is to cut the JDM harness, and extend evey wire X number of inches. This means doing 2 solder joints per wire. This is potentialy a problem, as several of the wires are shielded for the cam and crank triggers, etc. The less joints the better. What I suggest is to use a large section of the stock harness to extend the JDM harness. The connectors on the ECM end are the same as the JDM, but the JDM harness has a few more wires. Some of these will be removed as they are for the traction control actuator. (which I am not using, as my GS did not have traction control.) The balance of the extra wires can be extended. I believe a few of the wires are probably for the hydraulic fan system, which I will be using.

So, do you guys want pictures yet?
Carl Crawford

loonyrobert3

yes sir!!!!! where the pics at???

twojayzee

[QUOTE=So, do you guys want pictures yet? [/QUOTE]
Show me the money !