Dx3

iTrader: (13)

Gil,

Yeah, makes sense man. I looked at the T-10e diagram and it looked about right but the US update was confusing me.

SRT's HIFI instructions?? Not sure what that is?? I have the ECU wiring diagram from my SRT and they are the same it looks like. Is that what you are talking about??

Thx for all your help man,

Jonny

bitkahuna

iTrader: (20)

Thanks for clarifying!

OK, so I set the IN/OUT to 13, the arrow to up, but what about that sensor calculation stuff? I think the manual said it's normally just 1 and 1 is that right!?

The SAFC2 is not a user friendly beast!

I wonder what it's done or has meant that my car appears to have been on HW1 forever!

GILLEXUS

iTrader: (14)

Yeah Johny, I just meant the wiring diagram from the SRT Hi flow intake instructions.
Since it seems like a while before you will have the eaders.
Do you know of anyone that has got their headers yet. Since the thread is closed, I have not heard anything on when the first productions will start.

You can hook up your SAFC now and just use it to monitor stuff and get familar w/ it. then when you get your headers you can tune and had your correction factors.
That is what I did It is kind of neat. I don't know where I'm going to mount it I don't want to cut up my ash try but that is the best,clean and custom look place.
I remember one CL 'er had it in the center arm rest. I don't see any way of doing that w/o adding 2'-3' to the lenth of the wires. but it looked nice.

If you want to do this ( install w/ SRT) let me know it is not hard. You use the same wires as the SRT's ecu except for the RPM, you tap the S-FAC's air flow/MAF wire after the SRT's airflow/MAF wire.. Then leave your correctiion factor #'s at "0% When you add your headers remove the SRT ecu and tune away

GILLEXUS

iTrader: (14)

Just noticed this post of yours.. If the S-AFC is installed w/ SRT you can drive to the dyno unplug the SRT ecu and the tuner can make adjustments right on the dyno. Make a by pass wire or a jumper wire to reconect the SRT's MAF wire and that way when you unplug the SRT ecu you won't waste time trying to rewire and resolder wires. Because dyno time is not cheap if they are charging you by the hour.

If you decide to totally remove the SRT's wire harness you can do that later on on your own time or you can leave the harness on ( with jumper wire in it).
If you decide sell the car w/ SRT or want the S-AFC out , just pull the jumper and plug in the SRT ecu.

This what I did. I just dynoed mine w/ SRT, S-FAC and w/o ecu. Interesting info.
Mine ran really lean w/o the SRT ecu you could tell the stock ecu was trying to compensate but accellerating just a little kept pushing it lean. I don't know if eventually it would have adjusted but it was too much of a concern to the tuner so he statred adding fuel to the idle and lo throttle.

I will be posting the info. The shop is giving me my dyno runs on disk I have to figure out how to pull them up to view them and post them. It is in a .drf file I have to convert it to somthing that will post maybe jpeg file?

Dx3

iTrader: (13)

Gil,

I saw on my bank statement that they charged the remaining payment to my bank on Sep 01, and they said they would only be charging the final amount when they were ready to be shipped. So, I am hoping to receive them soon.

I am still unsure as to where to mount my SAFC. I was looking at the cord wires that came with it and I figure we have about 8 feet to work with. Do you think this will make it to the center console ok? I don't want to cut up my ashtray so I was wanting to use the center armrest. I am pretty sure Paul (Bit) put his in there without any problems with having to add onto the wire.

Jonny

Dx3

iTrader: (13)

Gil,

When you talk about leaving it attached with a jumper wire, do you mean that I should wire in all of the SAFC wiring, and then leave the SRT MAF still connected? I am confused?

I am friends with the guy where I will be dynoing so I can just install it outside and then bring it in before he starts charging me.

My concern is whether the car will run right with the SRT ECU removed and the SAFC wired but with no settings?

Could I just leave the MAF from the SRT connected to my ECU and also have the MAF from the SAFC connected. Then tune it the first time, then remove the SRT MAF and then retune it. That way the car will be tuned enough to remove the SRT? Does that make sense or are my confusing you??

So what kind of numbers did you get? What are the mods?

Yeah, convert them to JPEGS and post them. If you can't convert them send them to me and I will see if I can do it.

Let me know,

Jonny

GILLEXUS

iTrader: (14)

I think it just affected how it read you TPS /throtle opening , Ithink since it was the same # ni as out is OK I do admit I don't tottaly understand how and why they use them. I called Apexi a while back when I was tring to find something on the GS430 engine and belive it or not they were nt any help

Bit , go to the senor check setting ( in etc..mode)and see what the throttle sensor voltage is with the throttle full closed and fully opened (gas pedal fully depressed -WOT) the engine does not need to be running. See if there any difference w/ sensor # set at 1in1 out and at 13 in 13 out. Also see in monitor mode if your throttle reads 100% when the throttle is fully opened .
I would do it but my car is at the body shop.

Do you have your S-AFC knock sensor hooked up? I wondering what readings I should be getting , If any at all, and what is normal

Did you mount you SAFC in the centeare rest? if so did you have to add wire to the harness? I have mine a little longer in the ecu area so that I had plenty of wire to work with and tuck. My S-AFC head unit only reaches to the front of my arm rest and I would need about 1 1/2ft. to 2 1/2 ft.
to route up the back of the arm rest console.

GILLEXUS

iTrader: (14)

Jonny I have to head to work I'll get to your qestions. I found a SRT intake diagram pdf file. and I' making you a skematic to wire the S-AFC w/ the SRTintake and pics of custom wire .bypass

Dx3

iTrader: (13)

You the man Gil - thank you.

Jonny

bitkahuna

iTrader: (20)

OK some research...

So the only difference I see is if it's on In01/Out01 the IN2 reading is 0.5 for closed throttle, vs. 0 for In13/Out13.

Tried this in both In01/Out01 and In13/Out13 settings and both times full open throttle results in about a 37% reading! I don't know if this is good/bad!

Yes I believe I do because at idle it showed 00025 and at part throttle it shows around 00100. I assume there's some threshold it must cross before it's considered to be knocking.

No, in the ashtray. My first ever serious dremel job and I was pleased with the result. I can still close the ashtray and hide the SAFC-II if I want.

Anyway, I hope this info helps you and anyone else interested. I still don't know if it's setup right. but the car's still fast as hell.

bitkahuna

iTrader: (20)

Does no one else have an SAFC2 on a GS400 that can tell me if those numbers seem right!?

Thanks.

bitkahuna

iTrader: (20)

bumpity bump

GILLEXUS

iTrader: (14)

bitkahuna,
I did not remember what my SAFC read,. I stopped by the body shop where my car is and check it out.


SETTINGS READINGS
Throttle IN OUT IN1 IN2 THR
Open 25 25 0.625 v 0.02v 3.99v
Closed 25 25 0.625v 0.02v 0.910v

FYI the "IN2" is intake #2 signal. this is from the blue wire (not use for our cars)

My GS is a 430 so I use 25 for my sensor #'s
Your THR voltage reading should be 3-5 volts and your throttle % in monitor mode should be around 90% or more I do belive..
I think this is why your throttle %reading 37% because your throttle signal volts seem low to me. Did you make shure the gas pedal was pushed to the floor when you checked full open? Try strating the car and floor it for just long enough to see if the throttle goes past 37% hopfullly 90%+ ( in monitor. mode) and your throttle vlt. in "sensor check" goes to 3 vlt.+

Never going past 37% can affect your Throttle opening point( Lo/Hi setting) What is you
TH- Point set at?
This just means if your S-AFC never sees your throttle opening past 38% at WOT and your "TH-point" setting is set at lets say Hi 50% I don't think it will use your correction

Knock signal--In sensor Chk. my knock reading is around 0030 when cold and warming up then it idles around 0050-0060 and revving it up it goes to up 120 when it getting hot. The knock # in sensor Chk is aknock output raw data # you have to do the "knock signal correction to converrt this raw # to a KNOCK level. which will read a knock level in the monitor mode.
Do you know if yours is reading knock level?
mine is o-1 when it is just warming up but I notice that when it was hot out it's gotten p to 15-18 driving around town.
This is what I would like to know what every one else is getting with their S-AFC II's What is a hi or normal knock level??

Bit did you do our S-AFC install? I know there are quite a few GS4's out there w/ S-AFC's but not sure if there are many S-AFC II's since the II's are the only one's with the knock sensor meter.
If we can get GURU to chime in on the throttle voltage issue, he seems to have some technical knowledge of the S-AFC.


DX3,
I did not forget you. I finally got your wire/schematic done I'll post when I get home from work. Sun. PM

Dx3

iTrader: (13)

Awesome man - look forward to seeing it.

Jonny

bitkahuna

iTrader: (20)

Thanks so much! I really appreciate you doing this!

Maybe it's different between GS400 and 430? I checked again and it's still around 37% max with foot to the floor, but maybe I checked in sensor check and not monitor mode so maybe I'm confused!?

Will have to check tomorrow and get back to you.

Ah got it. Well at least it wouldn't be doing any harm I suppose.

I've never seen the knock count go above 0. I'll also have to check those numbers at different engine situations like you did.

No, had a shop do it and yes, mine's the S-AFC-II.

Again, thanks a BUNCH for your help. I'm feeling a bit more adventurous now to figure this out...