morris

iTrader: (2)

Paul I dont know if this helps but my SAFCII does read 100% throttle when the accelerator is fully depressed. Also I have the knock sensor hooked up but I have never seen anyting other than zero for knocks.

bitkahuna

iTrader: (20)

Thanks Morris, since you have a GS400, could you get me all the settings on your SAFC-II? Particularly the one GILLEXUS has mentioned. I'd really appreciate it but understand if you don't have the time because I know it's tedious.

GILLEXUS

iTrader: (14)

Bitkahuna,
Check and see that the gray ( throttle wire) is connected to the right spot. I guesing that your not recieving the proper signal?

Morris,
Can you check and see what voltage # your getting on your throttle in the sensor check mode? I do beleive the 400 and 430 use the same TPS and throttle body. I get 3.99 - 3.94 volts reading when my throttle is fully opened.

jmecbr900

Guys, I'm sorry to have arrived late at the party (Paul even sent me a link and I totally forgot, sorry Paul ).

What readings did you guys need?

GILLEXUS

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for replying. I know there are quite afew GS400's w/ the S-AFC I but not sure fi there are many w/ the S-AFC II which do you have?
I have the S-AFC II on a 430 I was wanting to know what kind of knock level readings others were getting and what is normal vs. high. If you have the S-AFC II can you see what you see what #'s you get for raw data knock ( in sensor check mode ) and what you get for knock level reading.
--In sensor Chk. my knock reading is around 0030 when cold and warming up then it idles around 0050-0060 and revving it up it goes to up 120 when its hot.
My knock level reading ( in monitor mode) is 0 to 1 when it is just warming up but I notice that when it was hot out it's going to 15-18 driving around town some times.

Paul has voltage reading for his throttle. when doing sensor chk, he is only getting 1.9vts w/ throtte fullly opened shouldnt he be getting around 4-5vlts?? mine shows 3.99vts ( engine off) His throttle fully opened only reads 38%.

jmecbr900

I use the SAFCII.

One thing to remember is that you have calibrate that knock sensor setting for it to work properly. The calibration procedure is outlined in the manual. If memory serves me correct, you have to enter the mode thru the main menu and it asks you to rev the car at a certain time for it to calibrate to your car. If you don't do this, the readings may very well be off.



In sensor Ck: I'm in the teens while idle. Not sure running down the road because I don't usually have it in that mode, but when I rev it (Parked) it jumps up to 40's maybe.

In the monitor mode: It is normally at 0 most of the time, I have seen it go up as high as 100 when pushing it hard. The only time it comes off of zero is when I get on the gas kinda hard. Normal driving putting around town it stays mostly at or around zero.

You can always see what the highest value reached in any, except voltage, reading set during any one "session" (anytime the car has been on before you turn the ignition off) by hitting up on the center joystick thing. It will highlight the values at their highest point reached during that interval. If you're driving cross country and don't turn off the car, that interval could be many many hours just like if you just cranked the car up and ran to the corner store the data would only be for a few minutes only. It's barely data logging, but atleast you can see max values for a certain interval in time.

He needs to re-calibrate that too then. Mine also reads as yours at 3.99 volts when it's to the floor. .7 or so at idle. He's only reading 38% because of that. If I hit mine to the floor, it "records" 100% in the procedure outlined above for "data logging".

Dx3

iTrader: (13)

Sorry guys - been away from this thread for a couple of days.

Paul - you should be reading 100% having the throttle fully depressed as has been stated. I would check your wiring because something is wrong there.

Gil - any luck on that schematic you were working on for me???

Trying to decide whether I should just go and get the S-AFC tuned now or wait until I do some more mods I have NOS and headers on the way but I don't think I will have the money to install either for a while.

Jonny

Dx3

iTrader: (13)

Guys,

Got a diagram made which I posted in another thread so it can easily be found through search. I am pretty sure if it is accurate but if anyone thinks anything needs changed let me know and I will fix it.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...61#post1488861

Jonny

GILLEXUS

iTrader: (14)

Sorry for the delay . Have you had your car dynoed before or w/ SRT on It. What is your friend charging you to dyno, since he's tuning it its usually by the hr. The shop I went to only charged $60/half hour. w/ wideband A/F reading. Is he using a Dynojet dyno? if so make sure and see if he will give your dyno files on a disk (make sure you take a disk with you) I got mine It took me awhile to figure out how to read and get the info from it BUT It is amazing what all you can display and compare w/ it.

Jonny I would get it tuned now to get a base line # to compare w/ any prevous dynos,if any were done, and later when you add headers and nos. I'm trying to compare my readings at different stages w/ the A/F readings. to see haw add-on effect my A/F readings. I just wish my dynos awhile back had A/F readings.

jonny, this is what I would suggest -
1-Connect your S-AFC II w/ your SRT/ ECU installed. Make sure all S-AFC II correction #'s on "0" This way the S-AFC has no affect on the MAF signal comingout the SRT ECU black box to the engine.
2-I would have the tuner do a dyno pull w/ the SRT/ECU on. this should not affect your dyno time if he is charging you by the hr. 1 or 2 pulls right off the bat only takes a few minutes.
3-Unplug the SRT ECU unit ( leave ecu cover off or on w/ 1 screw-saves time)
4-put in by-pass wire/ jumper reconnecting the SRT green & orange wire (stock MAF wire that was cut) Make sure S-AFC MAF wire is wired AFTER the SRT MAF wire ( see my schematic)
5-Now it your already on the dyno and the tuner can start tuning. He will be able to see the A/F ratio on the dyno screen as he revs it up and and set some initial settigs to get it going. If you do the install out side and it is really lean just applying light gas to drive it to the dyno you'll get some detoation. I don''t think slight detonation at low throttle a short distance will hurt it?? But why chance it

Adding the S-AFC now w/ your SRTinstalled you can use it to monitor basic funcions and helps get you familar with it and what it does. Plus it coo lt to play w/ it If for some reason you want to put back on the SRT ecu or stock intake box for a while, you can switch the S-AFC to Data file 2 ( with corrections at "o") and leave your dyno correction #'s on data file 1

Originally Posted by Dx3
Yes. The MAF is the meter that you connected to the intake tube I think you meant SRT ecu unit.

No ,the car will run rough or be hard to idle. I guess you could add some fuel to the Lo throttle setting. you would be guessing unless your tuner has had some experience w/ this.

Yes sort of, you got the right idea. Leave the SRT ECU unit connected, connect the S-AFC unit leaving A/F correction #'s on "0" Tuning the S-AFC w/ the SRT ECU connect , you will be just fine tuning the pre-set settings from the SRT ECU unit. It can be done migth not be alot of room for improve ment.But if yu add headers that could chane the A/F picture ?? My SRT/ECU ran really lean so there was some room for improvement. Me being at 5,280 ft. may have some effect .

Darn it, I still need to post that I want to do a write-up on it.

1- w/ Borla exhaust only 3rd gear-rwhp 225. tq 241 A/F ran upper 14's until 4500rpm then went to 13 A/F down to 12.5 at 6200rpm.
2- SRT installed same day- rwhp 245.9 tq 270 A/F reading about same to 4500rpm then to about 13.8 all the way to 6200rpm
3- S-FAC II ( SRT ECU unit removed) same day rwhp 244 tq 269 A/F -tuner wanted to bring it down to a safer level about 13 A/F to 6200rpm. The last 4-5 runs the engine was getting heat soaked,so I know this had an effect on my reading. Stock run 89 degres last S-AFC run 94.5 degrees.

GILLEXUS

iTrader: (14)

Since you have your SRT ecu harness already wired to the engine ecu ,this makes it even easier. The wiring the same except for 4 wires.

1-RPM (green wire) signal to pin # 16 S-AFC uses a different wire.
2- Knock signal (purple wire) Have to find which one gives the highest output raw data reading. I found little difference beteween #1 and #2 so I used knock #1
3- MAF/Air flow input ( white wire) and output (yellow wire) Disconnect ) ONLY SRT sensor/MAF orange out wire connect to S-FAC II's Whithe wire ( airflow/MAF input signal) Now connectS-AFC II's yellow wire ( airflow/MAF output signal)

4- Now just make a jumper wire to connect the SRT green wire & orange wire when the SRT ECU unit is unpluged. This reconnects the only wire that was cut it the stock ECU wiring.

Read to dyno now--
1-Dyno w/ SRT ECU pluggedin and S-AFC correction #'s to 0's
2-Disconnect SRT ECU unit, put in by-pass wire. tune w/ S-AFC II tell the tuner that it might be really lean. He can see the A/F reading as he runs it. Will probably have to make some adjustments to the Lo thrl setting just to rev at lo rpm's



Here is the bypass I made.



Here is a pic of the BananaGS made

bitkahuna

iTrader: (20)

I'm lost - I took off the ECU cover and can't correlate DX3's diagram at all with what I see under there. It's just a mess of wires and I don't want to touch anything cuz it might screw up my car. I'll try correlating GILLEXUS' diagram above.

bitkahuna

iTrader: (20)

Not the greatest pic, but maybe someone can make head or tail of it...

GILLEXUS, I can't find anything that correlates with your diagram!

Dx3

iTrader: (13)

Paul,

I will take a look when I get home. Which wires do you need to find??

Jonny

GILLEXUS

iTrader: (14)

What is your "TH-Point" set to? go to main menu then "setting mode" then 3."TH-Point"
what does it show for Throttle Lo% and Hi %
does your RPM on your S-AFC match the car tach?

Ouote by bitkahuna


I just used the wire diagram from SRT's GS400 instructions and added the S-AFC wiring info to it. Yours shoud match the wires coming from the SRT ECU box in the diagram. I'll also look at your pic and see if I can tell what is tapped into.

GILLEXUS

iTrader: (14)

Paul I think I see a problem.. Con firm for me is the brown and black wire from the S-AFC the ones circled in the pic?
If so looks like they a attached together onto the brown ECU wire?? If that is correct the manual specifically states that they have to be at least 1cm or 1/2" apart.
Unwrap those 2 wires and see if they are together. It doesnot look like there is enough room under that tape tobe too far apart.