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High output altenator

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Old 10-25-05, 08:41 PM
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jp430
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Default High output altenator

I have been looking for a high output alt for the last 5-6 months (JPI, Lextreme,lux mods,lextasy) Everyone wants me to send mine and wait 2 weeks, because the cores are hard to find . Does anyone know of someone who does this and does not need me to ship mine, or maybe someone here in So cal that can "rewind" mine. I am looking for 160-180 amps.

Thanks Guys

John
Old 10-26-05, 11:58 AM
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nyARISTO
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you should check out msdignition.com i need 200amps myself
Old 10-27-05, 08:00 AM
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Supraownzu
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the guy that bought my supra sent his out and had it redone to 180amps. place was somewhere in new york, i can get the info if you want. also i believe its horsepower freaks or one of those places that sells high output alternators, dont know if it will work for your application though.
Old 10-30-05, 06:43 PM
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jmecbr900
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Most places are going to require you to send yours in because our cases aren't normally readily available on the shelf at these places.

I had mine built by Ohio Generator. I went 200 amps and it's worked fine for me so far. I do see some low voltage drops, but it's due to low idle issues associated with our model cars. Alternator can't put out what it's designed to when the car's idle drops to 500 rpms from a "normal" 700 rpms. When mine is at 700 rpm or better, it stays at a rock steady voltage.

Good luck and save your pennies.....high output alternators for our cars are usually a pretty penny.
Old 10-30-05, 06:49 PM
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TLW
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-00...QQcmdZViewItem
Old 10-31-05, 12:26 AM
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jp430
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Do you think that will work on a 2001 gs 430?

Thanx

John
Old 10-31-05, 06:15 AM
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GILLEXUS
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Hey guys, does a high amp output alternator have any negative effect on the battery long term?
Old 11-07-05, 12:53 PM
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jp430
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Just to let you guys know..........

I contacted the link listed on this thread, even though it is for a 400 they are able to get the 430 as well, AND FAST. They did not need mine, they had it to me in less than a week. I ordered monday and got it Sat. Thank you for your help guys. I am thinking about putting a smaller pully on the alter., so I can get more of those amps at lower RPMS.
Old 11-07-05, 01:00 PM
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jmecbr900
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Originally Posted by jp430
Just to let you guys know..........

I contacted the link listed on this thread, even though it is for a 400 they are able to get the 430 as well, AND FAST. They did not need mine, they had it to me in less than a week. I ordered monday and got it Sat. Thank you for your help guys. I am thinking about putting a smaller pully on the alter., so I can get more of those amps at lower RPMS.
That would be a bad idea. It will shorten your alternator's life considerably. Those alternators are already being wound to push substantially more amps than stock using the same size case. The voltage regulator is designed to work at certain voltage for certain RPMs. If you overdrive it, it will shorten the alternator's life because you are overspinning it beyond it's intended range for extended periods of time.

I would not recommend that, but you should call the manufacturer to be certain.
Old 11-07-05, 10:48 PM
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jp430
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Originally Posted by jmecbr900
That would be a bad idea. It will shorten your alternator's life considerably. Those alternators are already being wound to push substantially more amps than stock using the same size case. The voltage regulator is designed to work at certain voltage for certain RPMs. If you overdrive it, it will shorten the alternator's life because you are overspinning it beyond it's intended range for extended periods of time.

I would not recommend that, but you should call the manufacturer to be certain.

That is a good point. I did call the guys and he said to expect maybe 20amps more when at 1000rpms. Not much different. May just put in a second battery, I have room in the trunk.

Thanx

John
Old 11-08-05, 06:21 AM
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jmecbr900
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Originally Posted by jp430
That is a good point. I did call the guys and he said to expect maybe 20amps more when at 1000rpms. Not much different. May just put in a second battery, I have room in the trunk.

Thanx

John
Hate to keep shooting down your ideas, but yet again this is not the best idea. Adding a second battery, will do only 2 things: A) Add yet another load on the alternator; and B) give you more time to use electricals with the key off. That's it really. Unless you are trying to up your reserve power for playing with something with the key off, I don't see a real good reason for a 2nd battery. Besides, you then would be better suited with a dual output alternator, which can be had but I suspect is not as readily available as a single one.

Let me ask you, what is it you're trying to do?
Old 11-08-05, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jmecbr900
Hate to keep shooting down your ideas, but yet again this is not the best idea. Adding a second battery, will do only 2 things: A) Add yet another load on the alternator; and B) give you more time to use electricals with the key off. That's it really. Unless you are trying to up your reserve power for playing with something with the key off, I don't see a real good reason for a 2nd battery. Besides, you then would be better suited with a dual output alternator, which can be had but I suspect is not as readily available as a single one.

Let me ask you, what is it you're trying to do?
My rockford amps (T8004bd, T10001bd) perform BEST at 14 volts. I have a 40 farad Rockford cap with digital read. The cap shows about 12 and 10-11 when the bass is really hitting (JL audio 13.5 w7 1000 rms). When I rev up the alter I show 14.5. In my LS I had a T20001bd pushing two 13.5 w7s with the stock alter and two batterys. I want to do this for two reasons a) like you said, be able to mess with stuff while the car is off and b) get 14 volts to those amps for the best quality in sound. Those amps will give me much cleaner highs,mids and bass running at the recommended voltage. Dont get me wrong they WILL perform at 12 volts. I am running 6.5" MB quart Q series components in the front and MB reference series in the back, and the w7 in the trunk. I want THE BEST speakers and subs to sound there best. oh ya, I love my Q series, you can not get a cleaner sounding speaker .......imo. So that is what I am looking to do. Thank you for all suggestions guys, keep them coming. I will never claim to know everything

...........on my LS they has something in my engine that made it so the car ran off the front battery when driving and off the second battery if I was messing with stuff when the car was off. This is a 200 amp alter, I would think that I would really need to be pushing some heavy duty stuff to put stress on it. It is double what the stock one putts out. I dont know this to be fact though, just a guess.


Thanks

John

Last edited by jp430; 11-08-05 at 10:50 PM.
Old 11-09-05, 05:54 AM
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jmecbr900
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Originally Posted by jp430
My rockford amps (T8004bd, T10001bd) perform BEST at 14 volts. I have a 40 farad Rockford cap with digital read. The cap shows about 12 and 10-11 when the bass is really hitting (JL audio 13.5 w7 1000 rms). When I rev up the alter I show 14.5. In my LS I had a T20001bd pushing two 13.5 w7s with the stock alter and two batterys. I want to do this for two reasons a) like you said, be able to mess with stuff while the car is off and b) get 14 volts to those amps for the best quality in sound. Those amps will give me much cleaner highs,mids and bass running at the recommended voltage. Dont get me wrong they WILL perform at 12 volts. I am running 6.5" MB quart Q series components in the front and MB reference series in the back, and the w7 in the trunk. I want THE BEST speakers and subs to sound there best. oh ya, I love my Q series, you can not get a cleaner sounding speaker .......imo. So that is what I am looking to do. Thank you for all suggestions guys, keep them coming. I will never claim to know everything

...........on my LS they has something in my engine that made it so the car ran off the front battery when driving and off the second battery if I was messing with stuff when the car was off. This is a 200 amp alter, I would think that I would really need to be pushing some heavy duty stuff to put stress on it. It is double what the stock one putts out. I dont know this to be fact though, just a guess.


Thanks

John
I follow what you're trying to do, but amps are different than voltage.

Voltage is controlled by the regulator. Amps comes from the construction of the alternator itself, kinda like Max. HP ratings. The regulator is designed to top off the alternator at X # of volts, usually between 14-15V at high rpms. If you want your amps to see that kind of voltage all the time, would only be possible by doing as you stated; changing the pulley size. Problem there is as I stated before. If you do any kind of highway driving, the alternator will then "over rev" from it's designed parameters and have a substantially shorter life. Can it be done? Sure. How long will it last? Impossible to say. But personally, I wouldn't want to gamble on having to buy another one or even swapping it out (it's not the funnest project to get in/out) every so often.

Amps is what lets those big amps work when they are being pushed hard. I had 2 Orion HCCA amps in my car years ago. Those puppies were called "cheater" amps for a reason. Although rated at 50X2 RMS, the amp could be made to go as high as 800X1 without shutting down. The problem is that high current amps like that are called high CURRENT for a reason. When you bring down the impedence to make it go to that magical 800X1, you're also required to pump in more juice in the form of amps. At full bore, both those amps would pull about 110 amps by themselves, therefore I had little left to run the car unless I had a high output alternator put in (which I did).

I have a custom built 200 amp one myself. It dips down into the 12's when my car idles (the legendary low idle issue with 400's) down around 500 rpms. As soon as I come off idle.....the voltage instantly jumps up to 14+ and it stays rock steady there until I come back around idle.

We are technically supposed to be no lower than 13.1-13.3 at idle, and we would be were it not for the fact that our cars notoriously low idle for some reason. If I gently bring up the RPMs to around 650-700 (where the car should be all the time anyway), the voltage comes back up to the desired 13.1 and more.

So I guess what I'm saying is that if you do a lot of stop/go driving only or the car is going to be a show piece only.....then it would be possible to overdrive the alternator and it not be a big issue. But if it's your daily driver and you drive for any length of time at sustained high speeds.....I wouldn't risk it. You will definetly, or atleast should, see 14+ volts as soon as you hit the gas anyway. Your big cap should help keep the transient voltages as much in check as possible until you come off idle.
Old 04-05-10, 08:17 PM
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lowKut
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Search function took me back 5 years ago (I do apologize for bumping such an old thread, but did not want to start a new one)

I am in the market for a higher amp alternator and hope you good folks can provide a few links to some legit companies you have dealt with.

Equipments/gadgets in car is nothing too big:
4 amplifiers (approximately 3000+ watts rms total)
2 subs, 4 10" speakers, 4 6/12 components speakers
3 TVs

I will probably go w/ a second battery as well however, my stock alternator needs to be replaced and w/ the equipments I have it makes no sense to replace w/ oem.

any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

thanks!!
Old 04-05-10, 10:21 PM
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sakataj
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Originally Posted by lowKut
Search function took me back 5 years ago (I do apologize for bumping such an old thread, but did not want to start a new one)

I am in the market for a higher amp alternator and hope you good folks can provide a few links to some legit companies you have dealt with.

Equipments/gadgets in car is nothing too big:
4 amplifiers (approximately 3000+ watts rms total)
2 subs, 4 10" speakers, 4 6/12 components speakers
3 TVs

I will probably go w/ a second battery as well however, my stock alternator needs to be replaced and w/ the equipments I have it makes no sense to replace w/ oem.

any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

thanks!!
im gonna be running close to 7-8k watts and the alternator im getting made for is by a company called iraggi. a 330 amp with a lifetime warranty is 679 and without a lifetime warranty its 579 (my 0.02....get the warranty) check this post and you will see some contact info for them towards the last pages


https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...xx-owners.html


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