GS300 NA-T conversion in 4 hours
11-07-05, 03:10 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
GS300 NA-T conversion in 4 hours and $30 in parts not 56K friendly
I just completed my NA-T conversion, took me about 4 hours. Wasn't really as hard as I thought it would be. Unfortuatly, my wastegate has not arrived, so I can run my plumbing yet. 
Last edited by SuprRunner; 11-08-05 at 01:32 PM.
11-08-05, 03:02 AM
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Ok, this is all I have time to post for now...working right now.
Here is the after. Again, I do not yet have my wastgate yet so I have having to run without the turbo being hooked up...hence AFM is still connected to the Y pipe.
Also, the car has quite a few miles, so ignore how dirty it is. I will give it a bath after I am done.
Here is the after. Again, I do not yet have my wastgate yet so I have having to run without the turbo being hooked up...hence AFM is still connected to the Y pipe.
Also, the car has quite a few miles, so ignore how dirty it is. I will give it a bath after I am done.
11-08-05, 12:20 PM
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
here is a picture of the parts I used. I picked these up locally just before I started the swap.
PARTS: about $30
2 1/2 NPT pipe to 10AN fitting
2 10 AN Female to 3/4 hose barb (one not shown in picture)
2 1/8" NPT pipe to 4 an fitting
3" steel braded line with 4AN femal fittings crimped on
2" 3/4 hose
Tools: about $50 unless you can borrow or already have
1/2" Pipe tap
45/65" Drill bit for 1/2 tap
1/8" pipe tap
R drill bit for 1/8" pipe tap
PARTS: about $30
2 1/2 NPT pipe to 10AN fitting
2 10 AN Female to 3/4 hose barb (one not shown in picture)
2 1/8" NPT pipe to 4 an fitting
3" steel braded line with 4AN femal fittings crimped on
2" 3/4 hose
Tools: about $50 unless you can borrow or already have
1/2" Pipe tap
45/65" Drill bit for 1/2 tap
1/8" pipe tap
R drill bit for 1/8" pipe tap
11-08-05, 12:28 PM
#6
Intermediate
Thread Starter
First start by removing intake system up to TB
Then remove the heat shield off the exhaust manifold and remove the manifold. Don't forget to disconnect the O2 sensors. Also the lower 2 bolt flange just under the 1st cat. There is also a bracket that bolts to the transmission that will probably need to be removed. The exhaust manifold and cat can be removed through the engine bay. This took me about 30 minutes.
Then remove the heat shield off the exhaust manifold and remove the manifold. Don't forget to disconnect the O2 sensors. Also the lower 2 bolt flange just under the 1st cat. There is also a bracket that bolts to the transmission that will probably need to be removed. The exhaust manifold and cat can be removed through the engine bay. This took me about 30 minutes.
Last edited by SuprRunner; 11-08-05 at 12:43 PM.
11-08-05, 12:43 PM
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Now for under the car.
Remove plastic dust cover from under the car. You will see the lower portion of the oil pan. The oil pan has two sections. An upper aluminum section and a lower steel sump. You will need to remove the steel sump pan. This can be done without lifting the motor. There is the alterator harness that runs between the pan and the crossmember. There are plastic clips that hold this in place as well as a 12mm(socket size) bolt on top of the crossmember that holds the harness in place. This is where a gear wrench would be nice. Took me 5 minutes just to remove the bolt. Once the harness was out of the way, I needed a couple of short wobbly joints to get the rear bolts. There are 2 that are difficult to get, be carefull not to strip the heads. This part took me 20 minutes(with help of a grease pit).
Once the pan is off, remove the oil pickup tube and the splash shield.
Remove plastic dust cover from under the car. You will see the lower portion of the oil pan. The oil pan has two sections. An upper aluminum section and a lower steel sump. You will need to remove the steel sump pan. This can be done without lifting the motor. There is the alterator harness that runs between the pan and the crossmember. There are plastic clips that hold this in place as well as a 12mm(socket size) bolt on top of the crossmember that holds the harness in place. This is where a gear wrench would be nice. Took me 5 minutes just to remove the bolt. Once the harness was out of the way, I needed a couple of short wobbly joints to get the rear bolts. There are 2 that are difficult to get, be carefull not to strip the heads. This part took me 20 minutes(with help of a grease pit).
Once the pan is off, remove the oil pickup tube and the splash shield.
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11-08-05, 12:55 PM
#9
Intermediate
Thread Starter
If you notice on the picture above, just to the left of the crank shaft there is a recess in the pan that is a bad example of saturn. This is where the return fitting will go. On the outside, the hole will be directly below the distributor and somewhat behind the lower radiator hose where it connects to the engine. You may want to remove this for easier access to the top part of the oilpan. There are also some tranny lines that will need to be moved out of the way.
There are a few different ways I can think of to do this fitting. You could go with a flanged fitting like on the TT 2JZ's. This would require drilling 3 holes. One bit in the center, and 2 smaller holes in the outer portion to be tapped for bolts to hold the o-ringed flange.
You can drill and tap the big hole for a 1/2 pipe fitting. This is what I did, but I do not reccommend it. I found that the aluminum is much too thin to support the fitting. Although I did get it to work and it could last forever, I just don't trust it. Later I will change it to the next option.
Weld on fitting. Get an aluminum 10AN male adapter, and weld it on to the outside of the oil pan.
Once the fitting is in place, you can connect your return line. Then replace the spash shield, sump, and sump pan.
This took me about 20 minutes.
There are a few different ways I can think of to do this fitting. You could go with a flanged fitting like on the TT 2JZ's. This would require drilling 3 holes. One bit in the center, and 2 smaller holes in the outer portion to be tapped for bolts to hold the o-ringed flange.
You can drill and tap the big hole for a 1/2 pipe fitting. This is what I did, but I do not reccommend it. I found that the aluminum is much too thin to support the fitting. Although I did get it to work and it could last forever, I just don't trust it. Later I will change it to the next option.
Weld on fitting. Get an aluminum 10AN male adapter, and weld it on to the outside of the oil pan.
Once the fitting is in place, you can connect your return line. Then replace the spash shield, sump, and sump pan.
This took me about 20 minutes.
11-08-05, 01:02 PM
#10
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Oil feed.
The easiest way for the oil feed is through the big bolt that holds on the oil filter housing. This is a 24mm, and you will need a deep socket for when you replace the bolt with the fitting. Cost me less than $4 from parts store.
The end of the bolt will need to be drilled and tapped for your 1/8" NPT to 4 AN adapter. If you don't have a drill press with a vise and some good drill bits and you feel like drilling through over an inch of steel, than I reccommend buying the pre tapped bolt from the dealer. I guess any 98-newer 2JZ model has the bolt already tapped and ready to go. It took me about 20 minutes to drill and tap for the fitting.
The easiest way for the oil feed is through the big bolt that holds on the oil filter housing. This is a 24mm, and you will need a deep socket for when you replace the bolt with the fitting. Cost me less than $4 from parts store.
The end of the bolt will need to be drilled and tapped for your 1/8" NPT to 4 AN adapter. If you don't have a drill press with a vise and some good drill bits and you feel like drilling through over an inch of steel, than I reccommend buying the pre tapped bolt from the dealer. I guess any 98-newer 2JZ model has the bolt already tapped and ready to go. It took me about 20 minutes to drill and tap for the fitting.
11-08-05, 01:07 PM
#11
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Now, after this, you are kinda on your own. It took me just under 2 hours to get this far.
Depending on your turbo manifold, turbo, and exhaust, the remaining time can vary. It took me 2 more hours to bolt on the manifold, the turbo, downpipe, and get it to bolt up to the stock exhaust system. After 4 hours I was had my car running again but now with a turbo.
Happy boosting.
Depending on your turbo manifold, turbo, and exhaust, the remaining time can vary. It took me 2 more hours to bolt on the manifold, the turbo, downpipe, and get it to bolt up to the stock exhaust system. After 4 hours I was had my car running again but now with a turbo.
Happy boosting.
11-10-05, 01:07 PM
#14
Intermediate
Thread Starter
yes, lots of miles = dirty motor.
Just got my wastgate about 20 minutes ago. Set to 10 psi, so that is what I will be running. I need to slap in some 440's and the Emanage Ultimate. WIll probably do that this weekend. I will get some 550's later and run 14psi.
Just got my wastgate about 20 minutes ago. Set to 10 psi, so that is what I will be running. I need to slap in some 440's and the Emanage Ultimate. WIll probably do that this weekend. I will get some 550's later and run 14psi.
11-11-05, 01:36 AM
#15
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hey man, nice! First off, what turbo, manifold, downpipe, and wastegate are you using? I noticed you post in the supra forums. I saw you had a post in the TT section in the eBay thread. So I am just guessing the manifold and stuff are from eBay? If so does the turbo with intake clear the distributor? What size intake is that? looks to me to be 3", if I had to guess. Let me know, and when are you gonna get this baby dynoed?!