BA's Header Installation Steps
11-29-05, 10:52 AM
#31
Yo GILLEXUS, I have to say that I think trying to jack up the engine (or removing the motor mount) is the way to go. I know that this sounds work intensive, but it's actually not too bad.
Hopefully as others get thiers installed, they can give better info on what exactly should be done to get those heat shields out.
Actually, I would try it on one side and see how things go. I'd undo the two bolts behind the protective, snap-in, plastic cover on one side and SEE if you can get even 2 inches of extra clearance. It would help A LOT in getting the old heat shields out.
If that works for one side, it can then probably be done for the other side as well. Worst case seems to be that you'd want to undo a couple of transmission mount bolts as well to allow the engine to be jacked up without that restriction. You only need about 2 inches.
There is a good picture of that engine mount access cover and the bolts in another thread. I'll try to post the picture here later tonight.
.
Hopefully as others get thiers installed, they can give better info on what exactly should be done to get those heat shields out.
Actually, I would try it on one side and see how things go. I'd undo the two bolts behind the protective, snap-in, plastic cover on one side and SEE if you can get even 2 inches of extra clearance. It would help A LOT in getting the old heat shields out.
If that works for one side, it can then probably be done for the other side as well. Worst case seems to be that you'd want to undo a couple of transmission mount bolts as well to allow the engine to be jacked up without that restriction. You only need about 2 inches.
There is a good picture of that engine mount access cover and the bolts in another thread. I'll try to post the picture here later tonight.
.
Last edited by BA_GS400; 11-30-05 at 04:12 PM. Reason: add picture
11-30-05, 04:14 PM
#33
Motor mount bolts
This picture and the one above are from another header thread.
They show the location of the bolts and the plastic cover that hides them.
I am not sure whether the mount should be removed, after supporting the engine, or if the engine itself should be jacked up a little bit. (when motor mount bolts are out)
Either way, what I would be looking for is an extra inch or two to get the heat shields out easily.
.
They show the location of the bolts and the plastic cover that hides them.
I am not sure whether the mount should be removed, after supporting the engine, or if the engine itself should be jacked up a little bit. (when motor mount bolts are out)
Either way, what I would be looking for is an extra inch or two to get the heat shields out easily.
.
01-10-06, 06:25 PM
#35
Well, the concensus of my co-workers and friends is that the car is a little louder and deeper in tone. It might be because I keep my foot in the gas deeper. 
The butt-dyno does tell me that there is more power here. Hard to tell how much. It's there though. I don't think it's 20rwhp anywhere in the curve, but, I do believe it could be 5-10 throughout the range.
I talked to a local shop about a dyno test but they wanted $85 for 3 pulls. That's $170 for a before and after test!!!! Too rich for my blood.
Haven't been able to take it to the track or test much due to cold weather and rain here in Dayton Ohio.
I've put off the installation of a 3.76 gear Supra TT rearend until I get these headers on the drag-strip. Then we will know.
The butt-dyno does tell me that there is more power here. Hard to tell how much. It's there though. I don't think it's 20rwhp anywhere in the curve, but, I do believe it could be 5-10 throughout the range.
I talked to a local shop about a dyno test but they wanted $85 for 3 pulls. That's $170 for a before and after test!!!! Too rich for my blood.
Haven't been able to take it to the track or test much due to cold weather and rain here in Dayton Ohio.
I've put off the installation of a 3.76 gear Supra TT rearend until I get these headers on the drag-strip. Then we will know.
01-10-06, 08:52 PM
#36
Originally Posted by BA_GS400
Well, the concensus of my co-workers and friends is that the car is a little louder and deeper in tone. It might be because I keep my foot in the gas deeper.
The butt-dyno does tell me that there is more power here. Hard to tell how much. It's there though. I don't think it's 20rwhp anywhere in the curve, but, I do believe it could be 5-10 throughout the range.
I talked to a local shop about a dyno test but they wanted $85 for 3 pulls. That's $170 for a before and after test!!!! Too rich for my blood.
Haven't been able to take it to the track or test much due to cold weather and rain here in Dayton Ohio.
I've put off the installation of a 3.76 gear Supra TT rearend until I get these headers on the drag-strip. Then we will know.
The butt-dyno does tell me that there is more power here. Hard to tell how much. It's there though. I don't think it's 20rwhp anywhere in the curve, but, I do believe it could be 5-10 throughout the range.
I talked to a local shop about a dyno test but they wanted $85 for 3 pulls. That's $170 for a before and after test!!!! Too rich for my blood.
Haven't been able to take it to the track or test much due to cold weather and rain here in Dayton Ohio.
I've put off the installation of a 3.76 gear Supra TT rearend until I get these headers on the drag-strip. Then we will know.
01-11-06, 06:51 PM
#37
BA GS400,
It's great that you notice some improvement. I called on mine and was told that 2nd batch was in the process of getting parts added. your write-up was awsome.
What was your before dyno #"s?
I plan on getting a dyno after my header install.
It's great that you notice some improvement. I called on mine and was told that 2nd batch was in the process of getting parts added. your write-up was awsome.
What was your before dyno #"s?
I plan on getting a dyno after my header install.
01-12-06, 08:25 PM
#38
Hey Gil, I've got NO dyno numbers man. I just couldn't justify the cost. Heck, I'm still wondering how I'm gonna pay Visa for that rear-end I just bought!
GTSLEX, Thank you,......and Your welcome. I'm glad that people can benefit from it.
I've not noticed a loss of power anywhere at all in the curve! Keep in mind that I have a torque converter that stalls higher than stock so IF there was any losses under 3000rpm, it would be tough for me to tell anyway. The car feels great.
GTSLEX, Thank you,......and Your welcome. I'm glad that people can benefit from it.
I've not noticed a loss of power anywhere at all in the curve! Keep in mind that I have a torque converter that stalls higher than stock so IF there was any losses under 3000rpm, it would be tough for me to tell anyway. The car feels great.
02-19-06, 01:52 AM
#39
SC430 header installation
Having completed the header install in my SC430 I can say that it is much easier than a GS400 install judging from your post. Great write up BTW!
I will actually post details over on the SC430 forum tomorrow, but some quick notes for 430 owners.
Motor mounts do not need to be removed. Plenty of room.
I removed the heat shields with the manifold. Just moved them around to gain access to the nuts. Cutting them just adds time as the 430 has tons of room.
Only one nut each side might be a challenge and it is the same one pointed out above, however it is much easier to get to vs the GS400 looking at the pics. This nut can be easily removed using a box wrench from the engine bay for both drivers and passengers side. Ensure you have a good lock on it though.
Gasket on the cat on both sides. It appears above that the GS400 does not have a gasket for the header flange to cat. Perhaps I’m wrong. No install problems here on mine.
Left Y pipe installed on car. Removed cats of course.
Drivers side O2 sensor would no longer reach the connector unless pulled very tightly which I was not about to do so I spliced an extension into it so that it would go back where it should. The O2 opening on the drivers side should be at 3 oclock vs the 6 oclock position.
O2 sensor heat shields will not fit. Not sure if GS400's have these. No provision. No surprise. I just wrapped some wire protector over the O2 wires to help out. Should be no concern.
Steering coupler must be removed, but takes only 5 minutes.Mark with a marker or White Out.
Passenger side header flange is slightly off making the cross brace installation a bit tight and tricky.
MUST have 6 point sockets. Do not attempt to bother with 12 point or risk damaging a nut and a few are very tough remove if you mess it up. Fortunately all of mine came out great. Used a ton of spray on the nuts beforehand and let sit 20 minutes. I used a 1/2" 14mm 6point and extention with breaker to remove all but except the 2 mentioned above. 1/2" is much better to break nuts vs 3/8" if it fits.
Install time from touching the jack to lowering the jack was 4.5 hours including a few breaks in between. Keep in mind that I have installed many many headers before and have every tool a serious mechanic would need and then some. I would say 3hours 45 minutes is what I actually spent on it taking my time. Quicker if I rushed it or did it again. Remeber again to not strip any nuts or add 1-2 hours for each stripped nut to remove.
Lee
Link to my header install.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...39#post1734439
I will actually post details over on the SC430 forum tomorrow, but some quick notes for 430 owners.
Motor mounts do not need to be removed. Plenty of room.
I removed the heat shields with the manifold. Just moved them around to gain access to the nuts. Cutting them just adds time as the 430 has tons of room.
Only one nut each side might be a challenge and it is the same one pointed out above, however it is much easier to get to vs the GS400 looking at the pics. This nut can be easily removed using a box wrench from the engine bay for both drivers and passengers side. Ensure you have a good lock on it though.
Gasket on the cat on both sides. It appears above that the GS400 does not have a gasket for the header flange to cat. Perhaps I’m wrong. No install problems here on mine.
Left Y pipe installed on car. Removed cats of course.
Drivers side O2 sensor would no longer reach the connector unless pulled very tightly which I was not about to do so I spliced an extension into it so that it would go back where it should. The O2 opening on the drivers side should be at 3 oclock vs the 6 oclock position.
O2 sensor heat shields will not fit. Not sure if GS400's have these. No provision. No surprise. I just wrapped some wire protector over the O2 wires to help out. Should be no concern.
Steering coupler must be removed, but takes only 5 minutes.Mark with a marker or White Out.
Passenger side header flange is slightly off making the cross brace installation a bit tight and tricky.
MUST have 6 point sockets. Do not attempt to bother with 12 point or risk damaging a nut and a few are very tough remove if you mess it up. Fortunately all of mine came out great. Used a ton of spray on the nuts beforehand and let sit 20 minutes. I used a 1/2" 14mm 6point and extention with breaker to remove all but except the 2 mentioned above. 1/2" is much better to break nuts vs 3/8" if it fits.
Install time from touching the jack to lowering the jack was 4.5 hours including a few breaks in between. Keep in mind that I have installed many many headers before and have every tool a serious mechanic would need and then some. I would say 3hours 45 minutes is what I actually spent on it taking my time. Quicker if I rushed it or did it again. Remeber again to not strip any nuts or add 1-2 hours for each stripped nut to remove.
Lee
Link to my header install.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...39#post1734439
Last edited by Pearlpower; 02-19-06 at 02:41 AM.
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