Pics of my car with Intake/Exhaust LMS did for me.
12-08-05, 12:31 AM
#17
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Originally Posted by Zephyr
Dyno sheets....numbers are too high for just exhaust and intake.
Originally Posted by ISxSuLLuNg
Here are the dyno links:
Exhaust: http://my.is/forums/showthread.php?t=275061
Intake: http://my.is/forums/showthread.php?t=274720
Exhaust: http://my.is/forums/showthread.php?t=275061
Intake: http://my.is/forums/showthread.php?t=274720
12-08-05, 12:57 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by 05RollaXRS
22 rwhp just from an exhaust???? Holy cow how could that be possible??? 
11 rwhp from a short ram intake is a lot. It would be nice to see a dyno.
So in total 33 whp makes around 45 HP at the crank. So at the crank your car will be putting close to 360 HP with just intake and exhaust?? Nice.
Please do make some videos since it would most likely sound bad ***.
11 rwhp from a short ram intake is a lot. It would be nice to see a dyno.
So in total 33 whp makes around 45 HP at the crank. So at the crank your car will be putting close to 360 HP with just intake and exhaust?? Nice.
Please do make some videos since it would most likely sound bad ***.
if you do absolutely nothing to the car, there is still run to run variances on the dyno, due to a number of things, one of which is a smart ecu which often times adapts to the load / etc. The error comes in WHAT you attribute that fluctuation in power to.
For intakes, what tends to happen is on stock ecu's, without proper tuning and adjustment, they lean out the air / fuel ratio which will indeed make more power, but could be unsafe if driving on for extended periods of time. The "bump" in power thus, is not so much b/c of the intake as it is b/c of the leaning out of the air/fuel ratio. Also keep in mind that on the dyno with the hood wide open is a very different scenario than on the road with the hood shut and the intake soaking in all the hot air.
The best test of the power increase is simply to line it up against a stock IS, and see the difference in pull. My money says it makes little to no difference at all.
12-08-05, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by pinoychris
He did post dyno sheets.
notice also that the first run (the stock run) was done at NOON.
the second run (with intake and exhaust) was done at 5 in the afternoon.
You should post up ALL the variables / external temp , etc. and ALL the dyno adjustments and compare both runs.
You'd be surprised how much numbers CAN lie, especially when subjective HUMAN factors go into how the numbers get processed.
All of that said, if you really did manage to make that much more power safely, all the more power to you. I'd recommend going to a shop with lots of experience actually dyno tuning cars, they tend to understand run to run variable, additional factors, etc. and a good shop would be able to tell you how legitimate the two runs are back to back (if you put the stock stuff back on). I'd be interesting to see you dyno NOW, with the ECU adjusted for all the stuff you put on, and then dyno immediately afterwards with the stock stuff back on it. Once my x-mas break from law school starts, since you're in the socal area, i'll put up half the cost of the dyno run, plus beers afterwards, all in the name of good science.
12-08-05, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by GSE25
Very nice numbers for just the exhaust and intake. The exhaust looks VERY nice and subtle... matches the car. Any plans for the little brother 250?
12-08-05, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 4CYLNDR
how could this be possible? its not.
if you do absolutely nothing to the car, there is still run to run variances on the dyno, due to a number of things, one of which is a smart ecu which often times adapts to the load / etc. The error comes in WHAT you attribute that fluctuation in power to.
For intakes, what tends to happen is on stock ecu's, without proper tuning and adjustment, they lean out the air / fuel ratio which will indeed make more power, but could be unsafe if driving on for extended periods of time. The "bump" in power thus, is not so much b/c of the intake as it is b/c of the leaning out of the air/fuel ratio. Also keep in mind that on the dyno with the hood wide open is a very different scenario than on the road with the hood shut and the intake soaking in all the hot air.
The best test of the power increase is simply to line it up against a stock IS, and see the difference in pull. My money says it makes little to no difference at all.
if you do absolutely nothing to the car, there is still run to run variances on the dyno, due to a number of things, one of which is a smart ecu which often times adapts to the load / etc. The error comes in WHAT you attribute that fluctuation in power to.
For intakes, what tends to happen is on stock ecu's, without proper tuning and adjustment, they lean out the air / fuel ratio which will indeed make more power, but could be unsafe if driving on for extended periods of time. The "bump" in power thus, is not so much b/c of the intake as it is b/c of the leaning out of the air/fuel ratio. Also keep in mind that on the dyno with the hood wide open is a very different scenario than on the road with the hood shut and the intake soaking in all the hot air.
The best test of the power increase is simply to line it up against a stock IS, and see the difference in pull. My money says it makes little to no difference at all.
If you look at the dates for the exhaust dyno, the baseline run is done on 12/1 and the second run with aftermarket exhaust is done on 12/5. If runs are going to be done on the same day, they should be performed within a hour of each other. Otherwise, the numbers are pretty meaningless. However, if they dyno shop still has the dyno files, they should easily be able to correct the dyno runs to SAE standards. SAE corrected nubmers would be credible.
I didn't see anything on those dyno sheets indicating SAE corrected numbers.
As you know SAE corrected dyno numbers take out many of the variables you already referenced
(i.e. - the temperature, humidity and atmospheric pressure)
For the rest of you, read this link and you will understand what 4CYLINDER and I are talking about: http://wahiduddin.net/calc/cf.htm
Nice posts 4CYLNDR!
12-08-05, 06:50 AM
#25
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Dyno chart
I have never seen a dyno chart that picked up almost the exact same amount at every RPM. I doubt it would pick up that much if you take the intake and exhaust off the car.
I put a cat back exhaust on my 99 Lightning and lost 12-14 hp from the stock system.
The intake picked up 8 hp, and that is on a high hp supercharged vehicle.
The cat back mfg had dyno gains of 30hp. yeah right!
Not saying that it does not work, just looks way too good to be true.
All of my testing was done on a Dynojet at Swanson Performance in Torrance.
All temps were monitered.
Stock cat back replaced and power came up to what it was before.
I put a cat back exhaust on my 99 Lightning and lost 12-14 hp from the stock system.
The intake picked up 8 hp, and that is on a high hp supercharged vehicle.
The cat back mfg had dyno gains of 30hp. yeah right!
Not saying that it does not work, just looks way too good to be true.
All of my testing was done on a Dynojet at Swanson Performance in Torrance.
All temps were monitered.
Stock cat back replaced and power came up to what it was before.
Last edited by Skip; 12-08-05 at 06:57 AM. Reason: Adding some facts
12-08-05, 08:06 AM
#26
I'm guessing that there are alot of variables here, but there seems little doubt that these cars can be opened up a bit with just an intake/exhaust. It may not be more than 30hp, but I'm sure it will be at least 20whp. From my experience with dyno testing my cars in the past, such as the e36 M3, I got over 12hp with the ECIS intake system compared to the restrictive stock air box. The exhaust though only gave me about 5hp as the stock exhaust on the E36 M3 was already pretty good from the factory, but with the Lexus I believe it is so quiet and restrictive that a good 10hp could be gained by opening it up a bit. I guess we'll see over time with more and more dyno comparisons from the various other companies working on performance parts for the IS350.
12-08-05, 09:45 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by 4DOORFUN
Bingo! You sound you know a lot about cars. I do believe there are gains, but no where the numbers quoted in the original post. I'm sure the stock intake and exhaust systems are somewhat restrictive to quiet down the car. It is a Lexus after all.
If you look at the dates for the exhaust dyno, the baseline run is done on 12/1 and the second run with aftermarket exhaust is done on 12/5. If runs are going to be done on the same day, they should be performed within a hour of each other. Otherwise, the numbers are pretty meaningless. However, if they dyno shop still has the dyno files, they should easily be able to correct the dyno runs to SAE standards. SAE corrected nubmers would be credible.
I didn't see anything on those dyno sheets indicating SAE corrected numbers.
As you know SAE corrected dyno numbers take out many of the variables you already referenced
(i.e. - the temperature, humidity and atmospheric pressure)
For the rest of you, read this link and you will understand what 4CYLINDER and I are talking about: http://wahiduddin.net/calc/cf.htm
Nice posts 4CYLNDR!
If you look at the dates for the exhaust dyno, the baseline run is done on 12/1 and the second run with aftermarket exhaust is done on 12/5. If runs are going to be done on the same day, they should be performed within a hour of each other. Otherwise, the numbers are pretty meaningless. However, if they dyno shop still has the dyno files, they should easily be able to correct the dyno runs to SAE standards. SAE corrected nubmers would be credible.
I didn't see anything on those dyno sheets indicating SAE corrected numbers.
As you know SAE corrected dyno numbers take out many of the variables you already referenced
(i.e. - the temperature, humidity and atmospheric pressure)
For the rest of you, read this link and you will understand what 4CYLINDER and I are talking about: http://wahiduddin.net/calc/cf.htm
Nice posts 4CYLNDR!
1. the dynos were done on a Mustang dyno which i'm told typically show up 5-10% less than the dynojet.
2. Just because I got 11 rwhp with the intake and 22 with the exhaust does not necessarily add up to 33 rwhp from both
3. I completely agree that dyno runs tend to flucuate alot and it is pretty easy to inflate the numbers. The way they dynod my car was to do multiple runs stock and take the highest result then do multiple runs with each mod and take the highest result. Whether this is the best way to dyno a car or the best way to gauge gains I have no idea. But thats how the folks at LMS decided to do it...and the dynos were free so I'm not complaining =P
12-08-05, 09:51 AM
#30
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Originally Posted by 4CYLNDR
just took a look at the charts.
notice also that the first run (the stock run) was done at NOON.
the second run (with intake and exhaust) was done at 5 in the afternoon.
You should post up ALL the variables / external temp , etc. and ALL the dyno adjustments and compare both runs.
You'd be surprised how much numbers CAN lie, especially when subjective HUMAN factors go into how the numbers get processed.
All of that said, if you really did manage to make that much more power safely, all the more power to you. I'd recommend going to a shop with lots of experience actually dyno tuning cars, they tend to understand run to run variable, additional factors, etc. and a good shop would be able to tell you how legitimate the two runs are back to back (if you put the stock stuff back on). I'd be interesting to see you dyno NOW, with the ECU adjusted for all the stuff you put on, and then dyno immediately afterwards with the stock stuff back on it. Once my x-mas break from law school starts, since you're in the socal area, i'll put up half the cost of the dyno run, plus beers afterwards, all in the name of good science.
notice also that the first run (the stock run) was done at NOON.
the second run (with intake and exhaust) was done at 5 in the afternoon.
You should post up ALL the variables / external temp , etc. and ALL the dyno adjustments and compare both runs.
You'd be surprised how much numbers CAN lie, especially when subjective HUMAN factors go into how the numbers get processed.
All of that said, if you really did manage to make that much more power safely, all the more power to you. I'd recommend going to a shop with lots of experience actually dyno tuning cars, they tend to understand run to run variable, additional factors, etc. and a good shop would be able to tell you how legitimate the two runs are back to back (if you put the stock stuff back on). I'd be interesting to see you dyno NOW, with the ECU adjusted for all the stuff you put on, and then dyno immediately afterwards with the stock stuff back on it. Once my x-mas break from law school starts, since you're in the socal area, i'll put up half the cost of the dyno run, plus beers afterwards, all in the name of good science.
Oh and neither run I posted was with the intake AND exhaust. 1st dyno was stock baseline vs with just the intake and the 2nd was baseline vs with just the exhaust.