somebody familliar with AN fittings and such help me with this.
#1
somebody familliar with AN fittings and such help me with this.
Folks somebody tell me if this is going to work. This is a fuel rail, I have this metric to AN coupler that I am going to install in the fuel rail. But it doesnt screw all the way down into the rail as the bolt that originally came with the rail does.
I need to know is this going to be okay or is it going to leak. I have hand tightened the adapter into the rail and it does get tight, it just cant go all the way down into the rail.
If it's not going to work I would appreciate any reccomendations you may have on where and how I can get the partes needed.
I need to know is this going to be okay or is it going to leak. I have hand tightened the adapter into the rail and it does get tight, it just cant go all the way down into the rail.
If it's not going to work I would appreciate any reccomendations you may have on where and how I can get the partes needed.
#3
If the fuel rail and the metric to AN coupler are NPT type threads, use some teflon tape and tighten it down probably 1/4 turn after snug, and then check for leaks. If it is standard type threads you may have to use a copper crush washer to keep it from leaking. By the way, are the flared lines your connecting the AN fitting to the proper angle? AN fittings are 37 degrees while automotive type are 45 degrees. If you use two different angles it will leak.
Last edited by sockfocks; 02-21-06 at 11:55 AM.
#4
The fuel rail and the coupler are metric 14, with a 1.5 thread pitch not NPT. IN order to fit use crush washers to fill the space I would probably have to use about 4 of them, I'm guessing that wouldnt be a good way to go.
I can use the teflon but I am guessing that if the threads wont seal everything themselves the teflon isnt going to do the job either.
I guess what I am asking is does the coupler have to tighten up against the rail for a good seal or will the threads provide the good seal since it does get tight even though it doesnt get flush.
The fittings are all 37 degrees.
I can use the teflon but I am guessing that if the threads wont seal everything themselves the teflon isnt going to do the job either.
I guess what I am asking is does the coupler have to tighten up against the rail for a good seal or will the threads provide the good seal since it does get tight even though it doesnt get flush.
The fittings are all 37 degrees.
#5
Since they are standard threads I would believe you may need to cut more threads into the fuel rail to get the fitting to tighten all the way down and then use the crush type washer. Usually standard threads will not seal by themselves. You could try it with the teflon tape, pressurize it and check for leaks.
#7
What if I try cuttin the fitting a bit shorter, its not NPT on either end as far as I know.The original bolt was a bit shorther this one is having the problem because it is too long.
I figure I can just find a nut thread it on the fitting cut off a few threads and then use the nut to clean up the remaining threads by screwing it off and on.
That appears to be easeir and than tracking down and buying a size 14 metric tap. But of course I could be missing something so feel free to chime in if I am clueless.
Thanks
I am also assuming that the non threaded portion of the fitting wont cause a problem once I shorten the threads and it goes down into the rail.
I figure I can just find a nut thread it on the fitting cut off a few threads and then use the nut to clean up the remaining threads by screwing it off and on.
That appears to be easeir and than tracking down and buying a size 14 metric tap. But of course I could be missing something so feel free to chime in if I am clueless.
Thanks
I am also assuming that the non threaded portion of the fitting wont cause a problem once I shorten the threads and it goes down into the rail.
Last edited by morris; 02-22-06 at 03:08 AM.
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#8
Originally Posted by Epik
tef tape will prob not seal it either. tap the hole deeper. are the threads on the NPT end tapered? if so then they are self sealing.
#9
Originally Posted by morgan06
id stay away from teflon tape on the fuel system as often as possible. try some Loctite PST.
NEVER EVER EVER EVER use teflon in ANY part of your fuel system.
Little pieces tear away and clog up your injectors causing engine damage.
Your best bet is to cut dow the adapter you bought.Just be careful and run a file over the sharp edges and rinse it off very well, you dont want any metal slivers in your fuel system.
#10
Thanks for the reaffirmation. I decided to tap the rail a little deeper, it seemed the best way to go. The threaded portion of the adapter is the same length as the original bolt and I wanted to be sure that I had enough threads in the rail.
Of course no autoparts store on teh east side of atlanta had a metric 14 1.5 ptich tap. Not even norther tool and equpemt.
I was able to get Napa to order it for me today, I should have it tomorrow afternoon and I can start putting things together.
One more related question, do I need to use rubber o rings with any of the AN connectors?
I know a lot of this seems like basic questions but I dont want to get everything put together fire up the car and then have fuel spraying all over the place. Dissassembling this stuff was a real chore. I dont want to have to do it a second time.
Of course no autoparts store on teh east side of atlanta had a metric 14 1.5 ptich tap. Not even norther tool and equpemt.
I was able to get Napa to order it for me today, I should have it tomorrow afternoon and I can start putting things together.
One more related question, do I need to use rubber o rings with any of the AN connectors?
I know a lot of this seems like basic questions but I dont want to get everything put together fire up the car and then have fuel spraying all over the place. Dissassembling this stuff was a real chore. I dont want to have to do it a second time.
#11
No, you shouldt have to use any rubber O rings.
All A/N fittings and Compression fittings seal by design so you need nothing else.
You say the adapter and the piece you pulled out have the same thread lengths??
IN the pic the blue one looks longer?????
All A/N fittings and Compression fittings seal by design so you need nothing else.
You say the adapter and the piece you pulled out have the same thread lengths??
IN the pic the blue one looks longer?????
#12
the blue one has a non threaded neck on it that makes it longer but the threads are almost thesame. The blue one may have one more thread than the bolt
Heres a better photo.
camera phones suck
Heres a better photo.
camera phones suck
#13
THATS A CAMERA PHONE???
That pic looks great compared to mine.What phone is it?
Now that I see that pic I think your best bet IS to tap the hole as long as it doesnt go too far.
Take your time and use a lot of WD -40.It helps pull the metal slivers out.
That pic looks great compared to mine.What phone is it?
Now that I see that pic I think your best bet IS to tap the hole as long as it doesnt go too far.
Take your time and use a lot of WD -40.It helps pull the metal slivers out.
#14
thanks for the advice, I did measaure the rail and it looks like I have enough room to tap it deeper. I also have some crush washers that I will use that will take up a little space on the fitting. Hopefully the taper on the neck wont cause any issue.
The first blury photos wer from the camera phone this last one is from my Sony
The first blury photos wer from the camera phone this last one is from my Sony
#15
Using teflon on any fluid system has the chance of contamination if you dont do it right. Always apply teflon at least two threads from the open end of the connection to eliminate contamination. And wrap the teflon tape in the tightening direction.