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JOEZ intake Dyno results and videos (Independently Tested)

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Old 01-30-08, 10:04 AM
  #31  
Gernby
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Originally Posted by Buds
One would hope that for almost 500 bucks it would be about more than the sound... although it wouldn't surprise me if it wasn't.
I meant to say that I think the extra hole is all about sound since I think that the solid intake pipe (JoeZ style) will help some.
Old 01-30-08, 10:32 AM
  #32  
Buds
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Originally Posted by Gernby
I meant to say that I think the extra hole is all about sound since I think that the solid intake pipe (JoeZ style) will help some.
Ohhhh. Gotcha.
Old 01-30-08, 12:49 PM
  #33  
javyLSU
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Originally Posted by caymandive
... One thing though that concerns me is how it will pull in engine bay air.
I got news for everyone: The stock intake pulls engine bay air too. Take a minute and lower your hood, almost to the point to where it's shut. You'll notice that the hood when closed, sits directly in front of the intake duct. The air is pulled in through the holes in the front engine cover, which if you follow the path, means that (drum roll please.......) the intake air passes right by the radiator first. It surprises me that no one has realized this yet. The design of the stock airbox is definitely superior to that of an open box "hot-air intake," but I don't think we should revere the stock intake as if it were true cold air. As a matter of fact, I did some everyday street driving testing comparing the K&N with the stock intake. I had an OBDII sensor feeding me intake air temperature as measured by the MAF, and interestingly enough the heat soak when stopped in heavy traffic was actually worse with the stock intake than it was with the K&N.

Javier
Old 01-30-08, 01:23 PM
  #34  
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There isn't anything bad about drawing air from in front of the radiator. SRI's are pulling air that has passed through the radiator.

That said, your point about monitoring IAT via OBDII is surprising. I might have to hook mine up...
Old 01-30-08, 01:41 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Gernby
There isn't anything bad about drawing air from in front of the radiator. SRI's are pulling air that has passed through the radiator.
True - but at a stop, where there is no wind, the stock setup is drawing air from above the radiator, which probably explains the heat soak issue since this is exactly where the heat would escape. The radiator's sole function is to dissipate heat, and I wish Lexus had designed the the stock air duct so it wasn't so close to the radiator as it is. I drove around with that OBDII sensor for almost two months, swapping intakes back and forth, and the pattern was consistent. (Thanks to CL member cliffud for letting me use the sensor!)

Javier
Old 01-30-08, 03:16 PM
  #36  
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^^^
Hey Javier...
Did you ever notice the two sets of rubber gaskets???
There is one thats sits above the scoop opening that blocks off engine air, when the hood is closed all the way.

The AIR FLOW actually comes from behind the OEM Grill and then straight up the vented area that sets just below the air scoop...
Take a look...



Originally Posted by 4WS@TLA
No motive here =-)

I'm just doing my research since I may be buying an IS350 very shortly.

My apologies about the accusation, i didnt see the different dyno room temps, i assumed they were back to back and were the same temp. A 20 deg difference is huge in terms of dyno numbers.

My initial thoughts were WTF, all these guys are buying something on the assumption theyre making more power.

Is there a website i can look at the Joe Z parts, a quick search on google located nothing.

Cheers!

^^ Sorry buddy.. No website... Just an avid Enthusiast...

Welcome to Club Lexus!!

Just a quick FYI again for new and old members... I would never R&D, make & sell a product if it didn't truly have any power gains...
My Dyno testing was consistent and independently completed each time..

Also, I am very glad when members like "caymandive" purchase the Intake, paid for his own dyno testing and got the same/better results... 3,000 miles away from CA...

Great work James & Thank You!!



Joe Z

Last edited by Joe Z; 01-30-08 at 03:20 PM.
Old 01-30-08, 04:29 PM
  #37  
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Joe, Cayman

Do you think there would be any benefit to opening up the small holes in that panel in front of the radiator? It seems all the air has to come though the grated holes and where the hood latch goes through. It's sealed with the rubber gasket all the way around it.
Old 01-30-08, 04:32 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Frisco
Joe, Cayman

Do you think there would be any benefit to opening up the small holes in that panel in front of the radiator? It seems all the air has to come though the grated holes and where the hood latch goes through. It's sealed with the rubber gasket all the way around it.
Toyota engineers would have to be totally unqualified to have messed up that calculation.
Old 01-30-08, 05:25 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Joe Z
^^^
Hey Javier...
Did you ever notice the two sets of rubber gaskets???
There is one thats sits above the scoop opening that blocks off engine air, when the hood is closed all the way.

The AIR FLOW actually comes from behind the OEM Grill and then straight up the vented area that sets just below the air scoop...
Take a look...
That's exactly what I was referring to Joe. The air flow comes from the area directly immediately in front of the radiator, behind the grille. When stopped, heat soak is directly attributable to the intake scoops's proximity to the radiator.

Javier
Old 01-31-08, 06:13 AM
  #40  
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The term "heat soak" isn't really applicable to the temperature of the air when it enters the intake. Heat soak refers to the heating of the intake air AFTER it has entered the intake as it flows through the intake pipe, throttle body, intake manifold, and head. Heat soak is particularly bad when in stop and go traffic, or between runs at a competitive event because the heat from the engine will "soak" into the other components due to reduced coolant flow and reduced air flow. The heat soak will go away after a few miles of driving at speed.
Old 01-31-08, 07:54 AM
  #41  
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That's a good point Greg. IAT would have been a better term to use.

Javier
Old 01-31-08, 08:34 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Gernby
The term "heat soak" isn't really applicable to the temperature of the air when it enters the intake. Heat soak refers to the heating of the intake air AFTER it has entered the intake as it flows through the intake pipe, throttle body, intake manifold, and head. Heat soak is particularly bad when in stop and go traffic, or between runs at a competitive event because the heat from the engine will "soak" into the other components due to reduced coolant flow and reduced air flow. The heat soak will go away after a few miles of driving at speed.
Yes very good point...

I would say, it goes away after a few seconds of driving..
(only directly related to the "soaking" in the air intake system, if any..)

How you guys ever felt the suction power / air speed inside the air intake pipe or Throttle body??

It can litterally suck your arm up on open throttle...
Old 01-31-08, 08:38 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by javyLSU
That's exactly what I was referring to Joe. The air flow comes from the area directly immediately in front of the radiator, behind the grille. When stopped, heat soak is directly attributable to the intake scoops's proximity to the radiator.

Javier
I see what your saying, but there isn't much you can do when standing still...

Personally I have felt air flowing in through the front of my grill, when parked and hood closed..

Joe Z
Old 01-31-08, 09:13 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Joe Z
I would say, it goes away after a few seconds of driving..
(only directly related to the "soaking" in the air intake system, if any..)
I agree that IAT will drop a whole lot in a couple seconds of WOT, but it takes a lot longer for true heat soak to "go away". It takes quite a bit of air to cool down the whole intake system once it's been fully heat soaked. Well, I guess it won't take as long on our cars as it does on many others that have huge cast iron or aluminum intake manifolds.

My S2000 had all the cooling mods (cold thermostat, high pressure radiator cap, colder radiator fan switch, diluted coolant with Water Wetter, insulated AEM CAI, and insulating intake manifold gasket), but it still took about a minute at WOT for IAT to drop all the way down to ambient.
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