Oh they absolutely work! No doubt, I use a Hakko fm204 on the bench, and for portable I use cheap piston style similar to what you posted.
I like the piston over the squeeze bulb because it's easier to use since only need one hand and it sucks much faster, but either style gets the job done.

Desolder irons work great on thru-hole pcb's and most stuff, I recommended the wick because he is doing a smd ic, and the tips on the desolder irons are quite large and can be tough to use on super small stuff. Even having a hakko right there I still use wick alot for super small parts, unless it's a two prong smd I can grab quickly with the heated tweezers.

Big question is, will what he is trying to do work? Could be a nice addition to the aristo ecu usage options.

 

ohhhh I like that one much better than my squeeze one BUT ?'s about it does it suck it up into a tube or something or is it actually just blowing it off the board? I haven't ever used the wick stuff does it just kind of eat away the solder?

yeah its a interesting thought, will it work who knows. surranman try to keep heat contact to a minimum as you don't wanna burn the board or your chip. GL though

 

Roger that, I ordered the wick and sucker pen so I'll let you guys know how it goes. I have to put the swap off until next Saturday but that should give me enough time to research the motor mounts. Thanks for all your feedback fellas!

 

When you push the plunger down it locks in place. So you have it 'cocked' and it is ready to fire. Then while heating the solder point you just push the little release button with a finger, and it releases the spring loaded plunger and it sucks the molten solder up into the tube and then you 'recock' it for the next point you need to do.

The wick is a high grade copper mesh that attracts molten solder instantly. You lay it over the pin or row of pins that are soldered, and then place the iron's tip on it and the solder on the board/part/leg will draw up and absorb into the wick. There is a definite technique so practice on something first as you will probably just solder the wick to the part because you didn't move fast enough the first few times, takes a little practice, but for something like a surface mounted ic with that isn't thru-hole and has a bunch of legs you can effectively just 'wipe' the whole row of legs completely clean of solder in one shot dragging the tip and wick across it at the right speed and temperature.

 

So the ECU chip swap worked! Started up first try and I almost JZ'd my pants lol. I'll be able to sell the non immobilizer ECU i bought just in case at least.
here's the vid from first start up:
The next day I put the bumper on and drove her around, sadly the heat spiked so I had to burp it:
then I noticed the ticking
this next video has a little more from where the noise is suspected. I plan on removing the valve cover and checking under there for anything but open to suggestions (I really hope it's not BHG):

 

Sick, any pics on the process?

 

hey everyone, I'm from Australia and have done an aristo swap on my gs300, I'm using the aristo 4 speed gearbox as well. The car will be running about 800hp, I've got at 66/67 turbo, 6boost manifold, 50mm turbo smart wastegate, 1300cc injector, 262bc cams bc cam gear exhaust side, halteck ecu pigging backing stock ecu for the engine and gearbox. Now the gearbox I've had upgraded to stage 2 should handle 600-650 RWHP, I'm pretty sure my gearbox has tiptronic and was wondering how and if I can use this feature on the box. No one is Aus has done this kinda swap with so much HP and we need to make it manual to tune it fully.

 

did you use the gs300 ecu or the aristo

 

Hi, everyone. Well I bought a car with an aristo swap. I can't get the Tach to work. I follow the Guide of Pining TACH from igniter to the white plug with Black and Yellow. I get 5v and my tach doesn't even move from 0 RPM. Any Other advice?

 

I'm not 100% sure its a white connector you're supposed to run that wire to. I vaguely remember reading about running a wire from the jdm igniter where the missing pin is, all the way to a black connector in the ECU box. I'll try and look for the thread I had found it on and PM you with the info. Its an easy solution to your tach problem. If you'd like to look at it yourself, the answer is in one of the build threads. I just can't remember which one exactly.

 

agreed, i don't think it's a white wire, thought it was a black wire with yellow band or the opposite, but it's definitely in a thread somewhere, possibly even a picture

 

 

Does anyone in this chat know of a shop that does this 2JZ swap in New York? There’s a shop near me in Queens that sells motors, axles, lights, and various JDM parts that quoted me 5k for the swap, including the motor. Is this a good deal? Of course this doesn’t include intercooler and other needed parts

 

Figure the engine/trans combo can be had for 3k, often with an ECU that's likely a secure unit that won't work with your key without a locksmith/lexus enhancement. There are lots of extra parts that make this installation less of a hassle/custom effort such as intake and exhaust parts, reserviors, etc. So given it takes a day or two to do this swap they aren't getting rich on 5k, but there's a lot you need to cover off on with them to ensure you know what all is included in the deal.

 

Asap, PetrolWerks in LI quoted me "7-8k" on Stock ECU & Fuel with FMIC in March.
They also said it'd be a 2 week turn around.