Pittdawg

are now posted on K&N's website, not bad gains, I wonder if the gains are similar on the 250 though? Also, wtf it's not carb exempt? BOO!

http://www.kandn.com/dynocharts/69-8701.pdf

sincityIS

I am sure that wasn't a biased view from that dyno either.

imaputz

iTrader: (2)

looks like they tested in 4th gear?? wheres caymandiver and al503 to analyze =)

i see it for sale on thier website:

http://shop.knfilters.com/KNShop/Pro...?pid=69-8701TP

Ramon

If someone can independantly verify and duplicate that dyno graph, i'll be all over it.

Gernby

iTrader: (1)

I imagine the 1st complaint about the dyno plot is that it starts at 3500 RPMs.

IS35O

269whp stock is a bit suspicious as well

Chi-town

Wow, chart looks accurate enough; better than some of the others that have graced this board. And look, only 12 hp gain!

( I guess that means Fujita F5 for me...that way I can get a good +20rwhp (intake alone), a hat, a bag, and a can "O" NOS. j/k)

Seriously the numbers and chart look good, I doubt anyone is here to pick over those details. Quite frankly, I think open discussion amongst board members helps everyone involved pick the best product suited for their need(s). I just wish that we had less obvious fanboys pom-poming and product pumping, that would help rookies get a clearer picture of the facts.

al503

The 1:1 gear (4th for the IS) is the proper gear to run the dyno as I've said all along. JoeZ ran his in 4th, cayman did his in 4th, das on the other site will also run his comparison in 4th and the couple of dyno plots I've seen on the other site were run in 4th. If you go to the other forums and look at their dyno plots, you'll see that they are run on that particular car's 1:1 gear. Enough about the proper gear.

All I have to say about the gains are to take a manufacturer's dyno plot with a grain of salt. I'm waiting for the intake comparison on the other site.

imaputz

iTrader: (2)

thannks al, im gonna wait as well before i decide

Gernby

iTrader: (1)

They still didn't specify whether the test was done with the hood closed, and it is still a short ram (hot air). The box covering the cone filter doesn't look like it will do much more than block radiant heat from the engine block.

I read in another thread that the stock cold air snorkel is utilized to channel cold air to the semi-enclosure, but I can't see there being enough of a seal around the enclosure to actually pull a very high percentage of air from the snorkel.

al503

Since you brought it up...

The answer to this issue is one you can prove to yourself. You don't have to take my word.

In reference to the other dyno thread, take your car up to 3000 rpm's in 3rd gear. Doesn't matter if you're in full auto or step. Mash the throttle.

I've done it several times and it downshifts every time. When you mash the throttle in that situation, the computer will automatically put you in the best gear for acceleration.

al503

Agree. Unless the 'heat shield' can seal off the intake from the rest of the engine bay, it's probably not going to be much use. It might be better than an intake that doesn't have a shield but it's still not the optimal design IMO.

Stillen's intake for the G/Z has it right. They have the cone style filter in a sealed box similar to the stock air box. This ensures that the intake is pulling in air from outside the engine bay.

MeTrO

And so starts the beginning of the end for this thread...

Wests

I put down an SAE corrected 264.16 HP and 236.7 TQ with uncorrected numbers of 275.04 HP and 246.45 TQ on a Dynojet Dyno. So I don't think the baseline numbers are that suspicious.

Gernby

iTrader: (1)

I wasn't disputing the issue. I was just stating the obvious. I suppose K&N could have tried pulling the tranny connector that locks it in 4th gear, but then I wouldn't have expected the "pinch" in the 2 plots right at 4900 RPMs (where they probably went fully WOT).