DASHOCKER

iTrader: (2)

Another thread on the Sanitation Recycling Tube. I compare this device to the vornado that is sold at Pepboys. If you want to believe this device will make your car faster, then you are in what they call a delusional state.No pun intened. First off, this device is not a true cold air intake. The flimsy sheet metal is not a true heat shield, and allows more hot air through the intake duct. How much faster or quicker can your car with this device? Since I mentioned intake ducts, ever touch an SRT intake in a car thats been driven? Boys and girls, don't touch the "hot stove" The material of that tube seems to absorb more heat than any other material under the hood. For the price, they should have provided a better designed sheild simialr to that of the Weapon intake, thermal insulation or an intake tube made out of a material that does not absorb heat. If it gives you the impression that "my car is a beast now" lol then go get those G35's.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Intake diameter vs. intake length will affect your power increase/decrease. Just like the intake manifold, you can design your runner to be long with a small cross-sectional area, or a short runner with a large cross-sectional area, depending on how you want your powerband. An intake is no different since it's part of the air intake system.

If intake velocity did not matter, then Toyota wouldn't have bothered to put a variable induction system on their cars 10 years ago (before variable valve timing were widely available on Toyotas) to comphensate for the fixed runner length and plenum area.

In this case, an increase in piping diameter does affect air velocity, assuming the length of the intake is about the same as stock. In the end, it comes down to efficiency (velocity vs. flow). The SRT might actually be better for higher end power, but in the end, i sold mine because i lost a bit of low end torque. Since my driving consists of 95% city commute, I paid hundreds of dollars to reduce low end, while not being able to utilize the top end power. Take it for what it's worth, my experience isn't the same as everyone else's.

oohpapi44

iTrader: (1)

This is true and once again, it's a matter of personal preference. You barely hear the intake engage under 2500 rpm or so, thus if your driving habits keep you under then yes it's probably a waste of your time and money.

And for the record, when did SRT ever make a claim that this was a Cold Air Intake?

From SRT:
Swift Racing Technologies is proud to present their High Flow Intake/ECU upgrades for the Lexus Vehicles.
The High Flow Intake system adjusts the air-fuel ratio to optimal settings in conjunction with a high flow Intake system. The stock intake system from Lexus has deficiencies in supplying air needed by the engine. Swift Racing is proud to present the first ever High Flow Air Intake for the Lexus Vehicles. This system helps the engine breath much better and give the car quicker acceleration and much crisper throttle response in the entire RPM range. It uses mandrel bent steel pipes and 5061 aluminum heat/noise shield, high heat enamel coated (w/ceramic) and uses a 5" conical AFE lifetime air filter.
Performance gains: +9-12% HP and +9-12% torque.

DASHOCKER

iTrader: (2)

Huge misconception. The entire RPM range? hmm Ok, how can this be possible with an intake that is not a CAI? A true CAI will give you the above. This device is a HAI.

macd7919

iTrader: (10)

Wow...Lol..Well where to begin....

Quote 1: "This device is not a cold air intake" - Oddly enough I actually went on the SRT website and NOWHERE do they claim that the intake is a cold air intake. So I guess your theory about Srt's cold air intake not working well is correct because in fact they don't sell a cold air intake.

Quote 2: Second of all, "Don't touch the Hot Stove" correct me if I'm wrong but factory intakes are plastic, aftermarket (all of them as far as i know) are made of metal. Are you familiar with the heat transfer coefficient? Fyi, mild steel has one of the lowest heat transer coefficients of materials that would be used for intakes, including stainless steel and aluminum. As far as the weapon r intake, it is made of aluminum, which also transfers heat much more quickly than mild steel. But hey, you seem to like the weapon r intake, maybe they found a way to bend the rules of physics? Lol...

Quote 3: "Heatshield is not a real heatshield" - You claim it is not a true heatshield as it doen not enclose the filter element. It actually is a heat shield and not an airbox as you desire. Enclosing the filter element would be considered an air box. i agree an airbox would be nice, but the heatshield offered with the intake is indeed a shield and thats all not an air box.

I'm not here to start fights with people, all I'm saying is there is ALOT of misinformation on this board. I'm not siding with anyone here, but reading alot of the threads it is painfully clear that "he said she said" and not fact is a popular method of sorting things out.

DASHOCKER

iTrader: (2)

Its all good buddy, no one is fighting here We are all here to learn and get ideas.
The K&N FIPK is made out of plastic. http://www.knfilters.com/FIPK/fipk.htm Metal absorbs much more heat than plastic. Touch the metal surfaces of your car after its been out in the sun, then touch your spoiler or grill (anything plastic on the car) and compare.
What does the sheet metal SRT provide suppose to sheild? It is quite flimsy compared to the less expensive K&N heat sheild which has a weather stripping on it so that it seals flush to the underside of the hood to create a cooler enviornment for the air filter.

To be honest, I am not a fan of air intakes period. When I had my 96 Accord, I put a weapon air intake in it, and it seemed to bog the car down. I sold the intake for cheap and put the stock one back in at the time. I have a k&n drop in GS400 which to me has given my car slightly better throttle response than before. The Gs400 has one of the better designed air induction systems in the auto industry. Just take a look at it. It draws air from outside of the vehicle via the duct behind the grill and has litle restriction . It is not as restrictive as say a Foxbody Mustang which has a lot of twists and turns. I don't drive my car on a dyno, i drive it on the streets. When I am at a stop light, I want to beat the car next to me right away with no hesitation. I am not gonna tell that individual to wait for my car to get into the high RPM range By the time I catch up to the G35 that I'm racing at the light (with my SRT growling), he will be at a McDonalds drivethru ordering fries

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Yea. Whats the point of the heat "shield" if it's not going to work. The second law of thermodynamics will take place and soon enough, the engine will be sucking up the engine heat. Only thing it helps is the time it takes before the intake sucks up the air, which I bet wont be too long.

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

I don't care how non-restrictive you think the stock intake is, it is WAY more restrictive than the SRT intake.
I just don't get this argument - there is no question that the SRT makes the car perform much better than stock. The car is not quicker off the line, but it IS quicker and smoother at all other times. I don't see how anyone could beef with that.

LiLS

iTrader: (7)

what kind of intake would you guys suggest opposed to the SRT

DzaztrBUSE

So is it true that adding a set of headers will help you gain a little of what you lost on the low-end? I read this not too long ago on some thread. I was considering the SRT UNTIL i started reading what others had to say.

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

I would think the opposite - if less backpressure = loss of low end, then less restrictive headers = loss of low end, not gain.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

a header is more than just adding bigger pipes. How long the tube is, the inner diameter of the collectors, etc will determine how much power you're going to make and where you're going to make that power. In some case, a header will cause you to lose low end and gain high end, and in some case, you can gain low end and not gain top end at all. I'm sure there are a few dyno graphs for the headers on this forum.

DzaztrBUSE

Oh drats. So the what the heck should I do. Im getting my suspension and BBK finally but want to go a lil faster. Would TC be my next move? I must admit that I do enjoy a good ride on the expressway (when it isnt bumper-2-bumper traffic).

cardumb

I am considering the srt and just read the entire thread, thanks to all contributors.
What occurs to me:
The dyno does not reflect the effect of wind (cold air) into the engine bay. The srt heat shield would help at idle or slow speed to draw air past the headlight but at some velocity srt does not have an airbox scoop like stock, which avoids all radiator heated air.
What if I use the stock airbox with scoup, the srt pipe, filter and ecu?
should be quiter, give colder air but willl the ecu be tuned properly?
Anyone done this?

CD

Lexizm

iTrader: (2)

I don't know if anyone has tried it or not, I don't think all of it would fit.

I'm thinking that with gears and a TC, plus the SRT would balance out or be the best of both worlds. IMO the gears, TC with the SRT would make the car faster and quicker. The gears and TC would get the car out of the hole harder and quicker and the SRT would help with the added HP in the mid-range pulling you faster down the track to the quarter.

Anyone have an opinion on this combination?