JBrady

It is hard to determine your understanding of your blown engine because you have not stated enough information. You say it was built with forged internals (pistons, rods?) but you also say that you ran a 225hp wet system AND you state that the stock ECU goes lean at 170hp shot AND you state your ECU was tuned AND you state do not run the SRT ECU but do run the SRT intake...

So, please fill in the blanks for us.

Do you know WHY your engine blew yet?

You say you know someone that can reprogram the ECU for the engine and possibly the transmission... contact info on this source please?

Is your 225hp nitrous system a port system or single point system?

Did your first engine blow and if so do you know why?

Pictures and details on the engines please?

Until you KNOW why your engine failed you cannot place the blame. I am always concerned about engine builds as it is NOT easy to get everything really right. IMHO if you were not running a fogger at each PORT and since 225 does not divide by 8, I would say that distribution problems likely caused this failure. Checking the oxygen sensor or even wideband does NOT indicate cylinder to cylinder rich/lean conditions only bank to bank.

Please provide as much detail as you can because many on this forum are very interested in making more power and many could really help you if needed.

morris

iTrader: (2)

Yea, as far as I knew no one has been able to crack the GS ECU and reprogram it. So if you know someone that has I am sure a lot of people would be interested in how they did it and what software they are using.

Also the idea of running that much nitrous without any kind of fuel management is very confusing to me. Can you tell me what you are doing to make that work? How does the ECU keep up with it, what are you doing to add more fuel? Is more fuel needed? what size injectors are you using with the setup.

Carguy34

^^^
I second alot of that. What is blown? Depending on what it is I would be willing to buy the blown motor from you. Shoot me a PM with a price if you want to sell it. I am very interested to hear what broke and ideas on why.

beecuzwhy

the motor was rebuilt because it blew the first time w/ nitrious and being drunk didnt mix (stupidity) long story. This time around i builted it to withstand more nitrious more than what i was going to squeeze. the reason you dont want to run the srt ecu we've found out it cant compense the fuel, the stock can read it better then the srt unit which is made to run all motor (maxed out air/fuel mixture for all motor wise) thats until 170 shot wet when the ecu can keep up. I do have the info if you want it remapped and tuned. The motor justed got checked its head gasket is gone for sure all and water is mixed when i pulled out the dipstick besides the puddle of it under the engine. I rather have another motor than go thur that process agian, i will sell that motor. To see what the engine was running lean or rich i'd always dynoed it and thats how we can tell ( hours ). I should have went direct port but i stayed with the single fogger system because i race for money alot and its easier to hide. stupid idea i know, i shouldve went we the direct ports. i hope that answers your questions if you need the info please im me. thanks

Lextreme

On GS400 and newer motors have very weak rods. I have seen many Tundra block (same rod size as GS400 VVTi motor) with broken rods. I also recently experienced blown head gaskets and I changed without completely take out the heads. You can unbolt the header flange (where cats and header meet) and remove everything above the heads and lift the head about 1-1.5" to clear the heads and you can take out the blown head gaskets. Assuming your heads are still good and straight. Inspect the pistons and heads and clean both surfaces very well before installing a set of head gaskets. This task will take about 7-10 hours. So enjoy it or pay about $2,000 for a mechanic to do this job.


Good luck