My headers are stamped 8763....anyone knows if this is the first,second or third batch....and is it ok to have the 02 bung on the driver header but with no pass thru (hole), the passenger header has the 02 bung with a pass thru (hole)....

 

Thanks alot Lee. I hope I won't need the info. but I am afraid that I will sooner or later.
Ron G.

 

I started this thread https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=271860 just so that I could try to figure this out, but very few people responded.

Perhaps only a few people had the cracked headers............

Guys, can you all please chime in regardless of whether your headers cracked or not. It is just a general thread to gauge the long term reliablity of your headers so far.

Thanks!

 

1- Not Cracked.

 

I am not 100% what you are asking BUT there must be a hole for the o2 sensor to pass into the exhaust through the bung. If your bung is only welded without a hole it needs to be drilled. Either return to S&S (call first for a RNA) or have it drilled locally (assuming that is in fact your problem and question).

If in doubt, post a pic.

 

My Lex tech at Lexus of Orlando has confirmed my fear... That ticking, wispy sound is in fact a cracked header. I am also single with only one car, so keeping it off the road means I have to rent a car. I feel ripped off. I paid a great deal of money to get them installed in the first place. Now I have to shell it out again for repair or replace.

So not happy!!!

I get the impression the manufacturer is not too concerned or accommodating. I guess I have to try to get some kind of help from them.

#%*#EFJ(*&^*)(^DRFGOU)*^&&%RY(!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

So sorry to hear Billy. Fortunately it is much easier to remove the header vs the stock manifold so labor will be saved there.
Contact S&S and ask them to send you one so that your downtime is only one day. It should be on the passenger side as I have heard nothing of cracks on the drivers side which is more complicated due to PS ,dipstick, and steering controls.
Lee

 

From what I have heard and read, S&S seems to have been very concerned and accomodating.

 

that's been my impression from this thread too.

also, anyone should know that whenever you change out oem parts there's a chance of something going wrong, especially a newly developed product. it's up to you to research and weigh the risks.
headers in general are known for warping, cracking and header gaskets leaking.

 

Not necessarily true;a company that is in the business of making headers should already understand the ins and outs of such a product regardless of the application. I have installed many headers (more than all of you I bet) in my lifetime and these rate down there at the lowest in terms of quality all around. But, for only $600.00, you get what you pay for and since this is the only game in town the expectations should not be high. Heck, Bimmer owners pay up to $5000 for V8 headers! That stated, if the fitment was better, then I bet there would be no issue with cracks on these headers. But the fitment is not where it should be and this creates additional stress.

Do not get me wrong, I do enjoy the headers and overall I would do it again but only because I can easily do the install them myself and the performance is proven by my dyno.
For others that own one car that have to pay someone up to $1000 and sometimes more, my recommendation is dropped.

Also, there are many posts here on how long if at all that they take to respond to calls, emails, and messages , myself being one of them. This is why I just went ahead and welded it myself as I do not have time to play games with email or the phone with these guys.

Granted they may be a mom and pop organization, but that should have little bearing on the purchaser. The buyer expects to get what he/she is paying for as I am sure most out there do not sort their money into different expectations such as ,"little guy", "big guy."

I understand more than 99.99999999% of those on this board that there are risks in anything involving modifying a car including tires, wheels, exhaust, intake,etc. just the same as there is with replacing OEM parts with OEM parts. Things just fail sometimes. New cars come with inherent defects so there should be a balance in reasoning. But when this is the only car for someone and there is downtime everyone should consider that some emotions will get stirred and rightfully so and you guys should be able to relate to this.

 

S&S has been more accomadating than I would have expected. They took care of mine promptly and I am very happy with these headers. Like pearlpower said the price for them is very good. Of course we could have had some $2500+ headers made, but I am sure most of you wouldnt have paid it and many people seem to be cheap when it comes to buying parts. The price per dollar of this mod is great and once the weld is re-inforced they should be fine. We have to remember that we were rushing them to get these headers done so the initial testers may have not had a chance to get enough miles on them to see that they cracked. I applaud S&S for owning up and replacing them, but you cannot expect them to cover your labor...This is the perfect time to learn how to do them yourself if you did not the first time

 

Thanks for everyone’s valuable input. You guys are awesome. I feel free here... to be open and expressive. I would not talk to the general public about negative sc430 happenings. I will go through the normal phases of: Pissed, wonderment, financial impact, and acceptance. Like most of us do. I also find this to be a great place to celebrate accolades and achievements.

I will probably just have the header removed at Lexus of Orlando and have it welded at Titan Motorsports. They put in my Cat-back, so I know they do good work. I am trying to work out a schedule.

Lee, I appreciate your words of wisdom as always. Try to keep it under 140mph.

 

could not have said it better.

 

Has anyone experienced a "check engine" light as a result of a cracked header leaking exhaust past the O2 sensors?

 

Yes, it set of codes on my car. Cannot remember which but it did set off the codes. Have not returned since rewelding it. Also because the flange on the header is at an incorrect angle, this allows the a leak there as well unless you really tighten things up. Had that error code as well.