qlex56

nice clamps, i stopped by pep boys but i didnt not find any of those tbolt clamps, saw some on ebay for $4.00 a piece, i'll shop around some more
thanks

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, bead the pipes and put on T-Bolt clamps. I've had no problems with any of mine that were done that way. There is one coupler in my setup that is held on with regular worm clamps and no bead. That one has popped off once. So there you go, bead the pipes and use T-Bolts clamps

As for cutting the temp wire. I asked another more experienced guy and he says to disconnect all the O2 sensors instead of cutting the temp wire to force closed loop. Note: You must have a very fast and accurate Wideband O2 and EGT gauge if you're gonna do that! I think your best bet would be the Splitsec unit if you want to force closed loop. Either way though, these are all band-aid solutions. Eventually when you get around the 500-600HP+ range you're gonna need to go standalone or some system that has full control of the engine.

VM 2

No filter on your slug?

Also, you had to remove the front crash bar just to install the intercooler?

nyARISTO

Dont take this the wrong way ......... but there's alot u gotta learn about boosting!!!........ especially with ur set up

Well good luck im glad u found ur problem.... and glad u didnt blame mark allways gotta double check on things and especially ur manifold bolts and that V-band and i really hope u kno what im talking about too.

GSoup

I doubt he's looking to push that amount of power. He didn't do the HG and he has a 7lb spring on the wastegate.

A popped out coupler is what i thought would be the culprit and my hunch was correct. You should definitely look into beading your pipes and getting t bolts as suggested by Mikal and Jeff.

macd7919

iTrader: (10)

Beading the pipes is going to make the biggest difference, T-bolt clams are not that big of a deal and are more likely to leak than a worm drive. Reason being is there is a section just under the bolt that has less pressure than the rest of the clamp. It can lead to leakage, worm clamps are better for someone in your situation(and cheaper ).

qlex56

yup got rid of the regular clamps and got t bolts they tighten up real good. as for the reinforce bumper the body shop is going to cut some stuff to make it fit once i get my bodykit installed. as for HG i am in the future along with injectors, fuel pump and and hks dli so i can boost up to 15lbs, but for now im going to go with the splitsec, does anyone kno of a place that installs splitsec in socal
thanks.

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

Heh, I see you got that new intake pipe I suggested. I assume it idles fine and doensn't die at red lights anymore eh?

You should still get all your pipes beaded. The one pipe I didn't put a bead on popped off even with a T-Bolt clamp.

qlex56

hehe yeah it doesnt die anymore, i took your advise on the intake pipe
thanks Jeff

gotparts?

adel wiggins clamps >tbolt clamps

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

Hey, lexmada....I got a question for you. Does your turbo spin while the car is idling? Mine will only spin if I rev it up for a sec, but it slowly comes to a stop once the car settles back at idle speed of 650-700rpm or so. I guess it's because my turbo is so big lol. It's rated to put out 650-700hp lol I'll get there eventually

qlex56

yeah its spins when im at idle, and spins faster when i rev it up.

Eminence

Not sure what could be the possible problem, but honestly ditch the SAFC and run an AEM Plug and Play unit. It is pretty much readily available. There is a shop who is claiming no check engine light either. Cost = $2k