SAFC Question
05-15-07, 10:04 PM
#4
You should get a wideband, you can get them for around $250 (AEM). It will work just fine for what your doing and is a good way of making sure everything is safe in the motor. You could also tune the car yourself with a wideband and a friend, the money saved from dynoing will be way more than the price of the wideband in the end because you can tune for changes you make along the way yourself, not rely on someone else who own's a dyno.
05-15-07, 10:05 PM
#5
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Yea, I will be going boost in a month or two, but I kinda want to get this wiring the SAFC done and over with so I do not have to deal with it then. I will get a wideband then, but do I need a wideband even while i'm not messing with the SAFC?
05-15-07, 10:14 PM
#6
Well.......not really, but if you had a wideband between now and then you could probably get a little more power by tuning the afc just a little bit, especially if you have an intake without a piggyback already. Especially if you are running the split second box to stay in open loop, afc tuning could make a decent increase.
05-15-07, 10:16 PM
#7
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Alright, thanks a lot. Can I install the split second and SAFC without tuning or will that be bad? Reason being I don't have a wideband yet and have both of these currently.
Trending Topics
05-15-07, 10:26 PM
#9
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
But the thing is, is there a way so that I can install it but not mess with the fuel? Then when I go boost and have a wideband I can start messing with it.
05-15-07, 11:07 PM
#10
Yes, you can install it and just leave everythng at zero BUT it's also a good idea to either do a baseline run on a dyno or have a wideband so you can be 100% sure that everything is functioning correctly. It would PROBABLY be fine to just install it and leave things at zero, but as they say, it's better to be safe than sorry, lol
05-16-07, 08:28 PM
#11
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you'll be fine with the SAFC installed and leaving everything zero'd out. you can put a wideband on as well and it shouldn't mess with anything. definately do a baseline to see what power you're making now and after boost.
05-17-07, 04:54 AM
#12
You can just run the SAFC at all 0 across the board. Or there is an option in there to turn off all corrections. Basically it just passes all the signals thru directly and alters nothing. The question I'm wondering is why don't you just do it all at once when you're installing the turbo? I mean the SAFC is only like 6 wires or so lol, it took me like 15 mins to install mine and that included soldering and shrink tubing all the wires. The hardest part was running the wires thru the firewall. Also, a wideband O2 sensor/gauges is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY for any boosted car...especially a NA-T!!! I can't stress that enough, a $250-350 piece of hardware can save your engine from melting down or throwing a rod.
While we're on the subject of SAFC's. I have to say that it's not a very good choice for NA-T boosted car. It works fine for cars that have boost from the factory since the ecu knows how to deal with positive pressure already, and the SAFC just adds corrections on top. However, using SAFC on a car that was NA from the factory is not gonna yield the best results. Yes it will work, but just not as well and it's gonna be harder to tune. Also, the SAFC does not have a very high tuning resolution. I switched over to MAP-ECU and I can't be happier. Another DIY GS300 home tuner AdamGanz did the same exact same as me. Used SAFC at first and had horrible results, and then after the switch to MAPECU all problems were solved. Keep in mind that guy is all out nuts, 24PSI + methanol spanking Mustang Cobras lol.
While we're on the subject of SAFC's. I have to say that it's not a very good choice for NA-T boosted car. It works fine for cars that have boost from the factory since the ecu knows how to deal with positive pressure already, and the SAFC just adds corrections on top. However, using SAFC on a car that was NA from the factory is not gonna yield the best results. Yes it will work, but just not as well and it's gonna be harder to tune. Also, the SAFC does not have a very high tuning resolution. I switched over to MAP-ECU and I can't be happier. Another DIY GS300 home tuner AdamGanz did the same exact same as me. Used SAFC at first and had horrible results, and then after the switch to MAPECU all problems were solved. Keep in mind that guy is all out nuts, 24PSI + methanol spanking Mustang Cobras lol.
05-17-07, 09:41 AM
#13
Lexus Champion
If you are running more than 24psi + and you aren't using the race gas. I know where it's leading to..... blown engine. Methanol is a very effective chemical but once the nozzle fail or the line is crush. Your engine is gone! These piggyback would work for low boost application. But if you decided to run more than 18 psi, I would suggest that you look into a good stand alone system.
JPI
JPI
05-17-07, 10:16 AM
#14
If you are running more than 24psi + and you aren't using the race gas. I know where it's leading to..... blown engine. Methanol is a very effective chemical but once the nozzle fail or the line is crush. Your engine is gone! These piggyback would work for low boost application. But if you decided to run more than 18 psi, I would suggest that you look into a good stand alone system.
JPI
JPI
05-17-07, 11:21 AM
#15
There are ways to circumvent a blown motor if the meth fails. A pressure gauge on the line going to the nozzle will alert you if there is insufficient pressure/no pressure. From there you can just run a simple solenoid triggered from a pressure sensor to dump the wastegate which will vent you down to whatever the w/g spring is, probably around 11lbs for most people on this board. If you are running 100% meth with at least a 15g/hr (if I remember correctly) you would be fine running 24lbs. Of course a wideband is imperative when doing a setup like this.