caribmon71

Tell me which is which and what exactly it is you want measured. I will measure them and post. I took pictures of every single opening.

Can anyone answer any of my questions about the cats or the adapters for re-routing the oil dipstick?

caribmon71

I appreciate your observation. I can get a welder who doesn't charge me much to work on these. Do you have any suggestions on how I can improve them so that there will be less of a probability of them cracking sooner than later?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

This is very difficult to fix after the work is done. It would have been much better had they cut the tubes to fit precisely, heated the flange, and then installed the tube with a very slight interference fit. As it is, there isn't much anyone will be able to do without completely reworking the weld and reshaping with a die grinder when the welding is done.

Gernby

iTrader: (1)

I can't answer your question about the dipstick, but relocating the secondary O2 sensors won't be difficult. Just extend the sensor wires by cutting them and splicing in more wire. Just make sure the connections are well protected from water and debris.

Regarding the measurements, just measure the 2 different sizes of pipes. FYI, check out these collectors that Burns offers. Look at how the merging pipes come together smoothly with a knife edge instead of just "dumping off" into the collection point. They would be highly preferred over the ones you have, but a single Burns collector costs more than $200.

Gernby

iTrader: (1)

Here is a blown up Burn's collector.

caribmon71

Ok, I see what you mean. I'll take it to a welder and see if he can try to correct the problem, or at least improve the current work. Thanks.

caribmon71

You're talking about the openings on either side of the collectors. This would be the openings on the 2 flanges? One on one side and four on the other?

visi0n

you are critiquing cheap ebay headers?!?!? what is the point? we already know why they're so cheap because the build quality is not up to par.

the headers will probably work fine.


people that build headers don't really worry about that junk because they fix it. they weld the inside also then grind it flush. DURRRRRRR.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Weld the inside, warp the flange, grind until it cracks - yeah, sure, I've seen people do all this before and worse. What's your point?

If you cut the tubes right and weld it right the first time, none of that is necessary. Unfortunately, cheapo headers don't bother with cutting the tubes right, they only focus on pretty welds on the outside for all your friends to oooh and aaaahh about.

visi0n

all those honda headers all you guys praise are welded inside and out then ground down. DUHH... that is the point. a 1,200 header that is welded inside and out that makes 15+whp on a 4cyl that is making 300+whp. i've not seen one crack.

you can complain about crappy headers but who ever said they were quality. no wonder why they would cost me like 200 dollars to buy.

better than stock? who knows. but its chrome right?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

All what honda headers? I've never owned a honda car. Bikes, sure, but never a honda car. What's your point?

It sounds like you are just complaining and not adding anything valuable to the conversation. Do you have an insight to express that might help caribmon71?

visi0n

i'm talking about full on race cars. and YOU are not adding anything to anything by downtalking parts that we already know are sub par.

i never did mention bikes did i? so what is your point. you seem to like talking bigger than everybody else with nothing to back it up with.

ebay part...get it? DUH! this isn't a freaking name brand part, its called an ebay part.

im' not complaining one bit, i'm only giving you back what you're giving to the discussion. which you think is of no relevance, and that is what i think of your addition to this conversation. part misalignment...big whoop...like we didn't know that, and cheap ebay headers don't crack because of misalignment, it is through too thin wall stainless that is welded at the wrong heatrange or not using gas or not enough on both sides of the weld.

User Name

I think you are confusing yourself.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for your contribution. It's obviously intended to help someone, but I don't see it helping anyone here. eBay does not manufacture headers. They didn't come from "eBay" they came from a vendor on eBay who bought these parts from someone who actually manufactured them.

Do you have anything useful to add, or do you wish to continue to make disparaging remarks that help no one?

caribmon71

Gone for a few days and this is what I find? Tsk, tsk, tsk. People, relax. I'm the one stuck with the crap here. I pretty much knew what I was getting into when I got these for less than $200. Honestly, though, I was hoping that it would be just as good as the Megan Racing part. I doubt that now, but then again, I haven't seen the Megan Racing part yet.

I'm trying to get the seller to come up with the oil stick adapters. No luck yet. Megan Racing doesn't sell them separately either. They're needed because the headers are larger than the original part. They interfere with the routing of the dipstick.

As for some of the comments posted, is it too risky to try to weld the end of these headers in order to keep them from cracking? Or am I just risking ruining them?

These cars don't produce that much power. In reality, what is the probability of cracking these headers? It won't be going to the track... well, maybe once or twice. Do they look much worse than most of the headers that people put on their cars? I'm not talking about high end cars or parts. I would like to know how these stack up (from the images I provided) to the average header bolted on to the average guy's car who is just looking to add a little bit more oomph to his vehicle.

Thanks!