My review of the borla off road exhaust
10-09-07, 05:33 AM
#31
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I'll try to take a pic latter today. I almost guarantee that your noise is the same thing i had. If you crawl under your car and look where the exhaust bends you will see a very small gap between the exhaust and the under side of the car if you slide the exhaust back there will be more room and no more clunking noise.
10-09-07, 06:18 AM
#32
I'll try to take a pic latter today. I almost guarantee that your noise is the same thing i had. If you crawl under your car and look where the exhaust bends you will see a very small gap between the exhaust and the under side of the car if you slide the exhaust back there will be more room and no more clunking noise.
10-09-07, 04:29 PM
#33
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Yes you are right our exhaust bolts right up to the exhaust manifolds, but latter down the pipping there is a slip joint that's the one I'm talking about, just loosen then slide every thing back no more noise and the tips line up great. Sorry no pic's from under the car all my tools and ramps at another location.
10-09-07, 07:43 PM
#34
Yours def looks a lot better than mine and I appreciate you taking the pics.
Are you meaning to loosen up where the clamps are that hold the x-pipe piece into the resonator piece? Because the only other spot is where it bends down and comes out after the resonators and I still wouldn't be able to do it there.
Are you talking about this piece right here?
or here after the resonators
Are you meaning to loosen up where the clamps are that hold the x-pipe piece into the resonator piece? Because the only other spot is where it bends down and comes out after the resonators and I still wouldn't be able to do it there.
Are you talking about this piece right here?
or here after the resonators
10-10-07, 09:27 AM
#36
10-10-07, 02:56 PM
#38
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Yes I had to cut mine to, and I thought it was just going to be mine. The weird thing about the fitment is that it has nothing to do with our cars it's the section that there pipes don't line up. As far as the joint that you need to loosen and move back yes its the x-pipe connection, but then again i loosened all joints to reposition to have a near perfect fit.
10-10-07, 07:12 PM
#39
Yes I had to cut mine to, and I thought it was just going to be mine. The weird thing about the fitment is that it has nothing to do with our cars it's the section that there pipes don't line up. As far as the joint that you need to loosen and move back yes its the x-pipe connection, but then again i loosened all joints to reposition to have a near perfect fit.
When you loosen your connections though you are now messing with the fit of the exhaust which is kind of scary if you think about it. Like I would feel like (even with those clamps tightened all the way down) that it would slide out eventually.
Friday night I am going over my friend with a lift and we are going to make this thing fit one way or another. Seriously, I am going to start welding some crap. Heck if i get it fit correctly, i could sell it for more than 1299.00. I could sell it as a slightly used BUT PROPERLY fitting borla
Accelerate thanks again for your suggestions. I am willing to give it all a big work over this weekend.
Did your exhaust hang down as low as mine does? Not talking the muffler but the pipes that run from the resonators to the mufflers? The way they bent them you cant get them up any higher because the suspension.
10-11-07, 08:46 AM
#40
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Yea just move the exhaust back about a inch, I moved mine about that much and no problem there is still plenty of clamping area. Just remember before you (weld if you are going to do) make sure you drive your car for a while, making turns, fast starts that won't be hard 
and so on ..... You wouldn't want to weld & then have problems. Good luck and let us know. O yea my exhaust seems to be about as low as yours, I don't think it's anything to worry about.
and so on ..... You wouldn't want to weld & then have problems. Good luck and let us know. O yea my exhaust seems to be about as low as yours, I don't think it's anything to worry about.
10-11-07, 03:52 PM
#41
I don't see why the low hanging exhaust is even a concern due to its location. If it were hanging low near the front seats, I could see it scraping on large speed bumps, but hanging low right between the rear axle is fine. It would take a very strange bump to cause problems with that.
10-13-07, 06:28 PM
#42
Actually my last exhaust even had scrapes on it, and i am super **** about what drive my car over.
OK so anyways, i left my camera at my friends house with this lift. I will have some pics tomorrow, but here's the update in text.
This fit is just more and more of a joke as I continue to find issues with it. Tonight we got it fitting about as good as its going to get.
Accelerate: I appreciate you advice. It was we did but we also took it a step further. I hammered back the part at the x pipe to the resonators because right at the resonators it's hitting the side of the car. 2 people with the exact same problem solved with some tinkering. Both of us had the noise. Now after knocking it back about 1" I now had a new problem. The left side rear resonator was now hitting part of the heat shield. hahah I cut that section of the heat shield away and problem solved.
None of the moving helped me with the fit of the tips. It did fix my noise which is good.
The tips were corrected today with a lot of bending and tweeking. I have it pretty good but bolt on exhaust will move. So next weekend I am going back over there and we are going to weld some new hangers to alter the postion. After I am done with this exhaust it will be the best fitting borla exhaust availible. It would be the only one anyone should buy if they have an IS. ha, with all the extra work put into it, I can call it a "custom fit borla exhaust". oh yeah, once again happy with the position i am going to spot weld each part together so it wont ever again. At that point when i sell it it's going to be a local pick up only
OK so anyways, i left my camera at my friends house with this lift. I will have some pics tomorrow, but here's the update in text.
This fit is just more and more of a joke as I continue to find issues with it. Tonight we got it fitting about as good as its going to get.
Accelerate: I appreciate you advice. It was we did but we also took it a step further. I hammered back the part at the x pipe to the resonators because right at the resonators it's hitting the side of the car. 2 people with the exact same problem solved with some tinkering. Both of us had the noise. Now after knocking it back about 1" I now had a new problem. The left side rear resonator was now hitting part of the heat shield. hahah I cut that section of the heat shield away and problem solved.
None of the moving helped me with the fit of the tips. It did fix my noise which is good.
The tips were corrected today with a lot of bending and tweeking. I have it pretty good but bolt on exhaust will move. So next weekend I am going back over there and we are going to weld some new hangers to alter the postion. After I am done with this exhaust it will be the best fitting borla exhaust availible. It would be the only one anyone should buy if they have an IS. ha, with all the extra work put into it, I can call it a "custom fit borla exhaust". oh yeah, once again happy with the position i am going to spot weld each part together so it wont ever again. At that point when i sell it it's going to be a local pick up only
10-14-07, 10:48 AM
#43
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After seeing your review I'm pretty disgusted in this exhaust. The HKS racing Ti for my supra runs about that price. It is a 105mm piping with a titanium muffler made by HKS and fit 100% w/o alterations.
For the $$$ this exhaust system costs it has 2 resonators and 2 mufflers. Thats about $400 retail. I'm sure it runs a whole $100 for them if Borla made them. The piping is about $300 retail and maybe $50 for flanges. You guys can add this up pretty easily. A retutable shop that services imports and has TIG and MIG welders on hand should be able to fab this for you for perfect fitment onto your vehicle for the same amount of money. It would probably take at least 6-8 hours but the system won't have issues with ground clearance. In the end, you can even select some nice HKS mufflers that could incorporate their silencers.
For the $$$ this exhaust system costs it has 2 resonators and 2 mufflers. Thats about $400 retail. I'm sure it runs a whole $100 for them if Borla made them. The piping is about $300 retail and maybe $50 for flanges. You guys can add this up pretty easily. A retutable shop that services imports and has TIG and MIG welders on hand should be able to fab this for you for perfect fitment onto your vehicle for the same amount of money. It would probably take at least 6-8 hours but the system won't have issues with ground clearance. In the end, you can even select some nice HKS mufflers that could incorporate their silencers.
10-14-07, 08:12 PM
#44
OK here's the pics.. They should explain themselves and should close this thread other than questions.
all in all here's what you should take from it.
1. Build your own exhaust. bolt on exhaust are a joke, and there is about 10hp room for improvement in the 2is exhaust. Buy the right gear and go for it.
2. Borla makes great exhaust but unfortunately not for the 2is. This is hands down the worst exhaust fits this side of the pecos river. We know this is a borla problem too because the 3 people that had contributed to this thread all had the same problems.
3. The borla off road has drone at 1500-2000 rpm. I am pretty sure that any exhaust without the cats will.
4. Did I mention you could build your own at half the price these people are charging for exhaust? I mean heck the tanabe looks and sounds good but is 500. You could get a full cat back system done up for your (parts/labor included) for around 650-700.
5. WOT of the borla is great!
here's the pics of the corrections. Accelerate was pretty spot on, but i am curious if he ran into my 2nd problem after hammering it back (which basically means you are no longer snug up in the xpipe resonator section). My 2nd problem was that once i hammered back the midsection it put it back over my heatshield which i had to cut. see pics below and it will explain.
and finally i got the tips semi looking good.. Here's another quality flaw, they were welded on kind of at an angle.
OH yeah thanks again Accelerate. You set my mind at east knowing that I wasn't the only one with some fitting issues. Your suggestions were spot on also for the most part. I appreciate it.
all in all here's what you should take from it.
1. Build your own exhaust. bolt on exhaust are a joke, and there is about 10hp room for improvement in the 2is exhaust. Buy the right gear and go for it.
2. Borla makes great exhaust but unfortunately not for the 2is. This is hands down the worst exhaust fits this side of the pecos river. We know this is a borla problem too because the 3 people that had contributed to this thread all had the same problems.
3. The borla off road has drone at 1500-2000 rpm. I am pretty sure that any exhaust without the cats will.
4. Did I mention you could build your own at half the price these people are charging for exhaust? I mean heck the tanabe looks and sounds good but is 500. You could get a full cat back system done up for your (parts/labor included) for around 650-700.
5. WOT of the borla is great!
here's the pics of the corrections. Accelerate was pretty spot on, but i am curious if he ran into my 2nd problem after hammering it back (which basically means you are no longer snug up in the xpipe resonator section). My 2nd problem was that once i hammered back the midsection it put it back over my heatshield which i had to cut. see pics below and it will explain.
and finally i got the tips semi looking good.. Here's another quality flaw, they were welded on kind of at an angle.
OH yeah thanks again Accelerate. You set my mind at east knowing that I wasn't the only one with some fitting issues. Your suggestions were spot on also for the most part. I appreciate it.
Last edited by combfilter; 10-14-07 at 11:01 PM.
