Soldering isn't used too much in aircrafts because of vibrations. Over time, your solder joints can stress and crack. You definitely do not want this while flying. However, that is not to say that there is absolutely no soldering on aircrafts. Solder can be used in on multi-pin connectors, but I dont consider that connection to be the same as two joining bare wires. Most of the time, you'll see wires being crimped.

Though for cars, I wouldn't worry too much about it. If I have to solder, I usually double up on the heatshrink.

 

BTW, 500 miles is not the magic number, it can be any number of miles, it's really in how you drive it.

 

hmm what is the magic number then??

 

Not since 1992. You can't even order a solder cup Cannon plug for an aircraft application in the Air Force. All crimped pins, no solder. The only solder allowed is on PC boards. Not one drop of solder on a wiring harness anywhere.

How do I know? I needed to replace a solder cup Cannon plug on my jet and I couldn't order it. I was told they are superceded by the crimped pin models. I checked the T.O. and it said no more solder anywhere on an aircraft harness. It's unreliable. So I got to crimp 105 pins. Lovely.

 

Here's the problem in a nutshell - solder wicks up the wire underneath the insulation. So does the flux. Both of them create stress points in the wire, and when the wire is subjected to vibration (any aircraft/automotive/motorcycle application) it will crack underneath the insulation and fail. The wire will appear normal but it will not conduct. So you spend many hours troubleshooting a failure that is actually a wire failure you cannot see.

If this happens to be on a critical system that isn't redundant, you're in serious trouble with aircraft.

Some Air Force MPTOs (methods and procedures technical orders) are listed here. 00-25-234 covers electronics standards including soldering, 00-25-233 covers integrated pressure systems. Both have a LOT of information on workmanship standards and design information for repair technicians.

 

Do you know if this rule applies only in America? I know that Microair in Australia has a small section in their literature where they talk about using solder in their multi-pin connectors. The literature was created in 2006. Perhaps they haven't caught on yet.

 

When tuning nearly stock N/A applications with basic intake, header, and exhaust, the goal is always to pull out excess fuel, and maybe optimize timing. When totally stock, there is considerably more excess fuel that needs to be pulled, so a good tune on a stock car will net significant results. As you add "good" bolt-ons, there is less excess fuel that needs to be pulled, so the net benefit of the tune will be less significant. That's why I said you don't understand. You would have gotten even better net gains from tuning BEFORE adding the bolt-ons. Basically, it just isn't right to say that headers won't work right without a tune, since the tune really has nothing to do with the headers.

 

I can agree with the idea that crimped type connections are better (more reliable) the solder type connections.

It is well known in the Automotive industry that a ‘gas tight’ seal made by a solid crimp is all that is needed.

Also, to use a fancy word, it is easy to anneal the copper wire when applying the heat needed to make a solder connection. This makes the wire more brittle and could result in a field failure under harsh conditions.

However, it is easy to go overboard with this stuff. I have made many solder type connections for various harnesses (Car & Motorcycle) and never had a failure like the type mentioned. Knowing all this, I still used solder connection and always do my best to apply as little heat as needed.

Here is how I installed the SIM for reference.

 

Completed view

 

1234189032901734523509810986124862345908265098265 miles... I have no idea.

 

well then 500 is close enough to the magic number.... bc the ecu should definately have time to learn the increased airflow by then.. and if not then its never going to and will need tuning

 

OMG, this whole time I thought the "SIM" was like a fouler or something. So when buying a set of these headers, will there be a guideline on which wires to solder?

 

Nope, you just have to guess. Choose but choose wisely.

Kidding. Instructions are included so it is not a big deal. Of course, don’t forget that it is probably illegal if anyone cares.

Regards,

 

Yeah, but it has been my experience that most obdII computers "learn" and no matter what bolt ons you add to increase flow both in and out of the engine to lean out the air/fuel mix, the computer will adjust to keep with the parameters of the rich setting determined by the manufacturer.
I didn't say the headers won't work, dyno sheets have already shown some o.k. gains, I just don't think it's cost effective to throw bolt ons at a motor that as of yet cannot be tuned to optimize performance.

What good does it do to optimize flow out of the engine, if you can't optimize flow and fuel mix going in, this has just been my experience with 2 liters or less of displacement, so I may be a bit off base with with an engine of larger capacity.

 

I know what Daniel is trying to say here.

The OEM ecu will run the emissions tests whenever the monitor criteria has been met. If its running the test and the criteria has changed (like full throttle acceleration, the vehicle is shut off,etc.) the test is aborted and retried once it has been met again. These are CARB regulations and ALL manufacturers have to follow them (even though most US manufacturer's cars I've seen happen to fumble these tests up and they don't get their hands slapped)