2GS 2jzge-t T61 build thread
02-10-08, 02:06 AM
#49
so jeff is right...i blew open my aem intake pipe twice with that non-reinforced coupler. Jeff you got pm...i could use advice on which intake pipe to use
hehe, i thought you'd figure. it's getting close to 2/17 meet
hsnap:lol, yes i've been home most of the time.
02-10-08, 12:07 PM
#50
For the reducing coupler make sure you get a 4ply reinforced one. If you need one I have an extra brand new one laying around. I a few extras in stock, never know when my friends cheap ebay couplers will blow in half lol. And yes I mean it will literally split in half(not just pop off) if you use a really crappy cheap one.
Also make sure the charge pipe has a stepped/beaded lip because that will really help prevent popping off. Oh and don't forget to use T-Bolt clamps on EVERYTHING. I have a box of those as well for my friends lol. The coupler I've always had a problem with is the charge pipe right where it meets the throttle body. The cheaper couplers keep popping because its right above the turbo where the heat is the greatest. With a high quality silicone coupler it can handle the heat much better so the chances of that happening is a lot smaller. Still you will need a stepped lip at the end of the pipe or the silicone will still pop off eventually(at 15psi)...either get a bead rolled on or TIG weld a bead on like my setup.
Also make sure the charge pipe has a stepped/beaded lip because that will really help prevent popping off. Oh and don't forget to use T-Bolt clamps on EVERYTHING. I have a box of those as well for my friends lol. The coupler I've always had a problem with is the charge pipe right where it meets the throttle body. The cheaper couplers keep popping because its right above the turbo where the heat is the greatest. With a high quality silicone coupler it can handle the heat much better so the chances of that happening is a lot smaller. Still you will need a stepped lip at the end of the pipe or the silicone will still pop off eventually(at 15psi
)...either get a bead rolled on or TIG weld a bead on like my setup.
02-11-08, 01:37 PM
#51
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Where did you get that AEM intake pipe from?? I want one. It would make the engine bay look a hundred times better not having that MAF in there. Please let me know where you got it from or where i can find one. I looked at google and didnt find anything
02-11-08, 07:27 PM
#52
One reason the coupling may be popping off at the throttle body is because of engine torque. The engine will twist because of the rubber mounts and cause more stress on rigid intake pipes versus the stock flexible ones, especially at high throttle and boost.
02-14-08, 04:41 PM
#54
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Yeah i do. But why did you take it off bro?? Also if i run that pipe with the Maf not being infront of the turbo wouldnt that have boost limitations. Thats what i heard. LMK
02-23-08, 02:02 PM
#56
Hey Kenny, nice writeup. Your install came out really clean and you were done fast man, nice job. You forgot to install one thing..... the XSPower decals I sent you 
You hit the money right too, about $2200-$2500 for the VVTi 2JZ. The non VVTi can be done for less. It's great to see another $1299 boosted 2JZ.
For anyone else who's interested, check the complete kit out at clubna-t - I've got the NA-T Gaskets sets, kits, boost controllers, etc all in stock and I'm doing free upgrades to the Tial style BOV this month and next.
Mark
You hit the money right too, about $2200-$2500 for the VVTi 2JZ. The non VVTi can be done for less. It's great to see another $1299 boosted 2JZ.
For anyone else who's interested, check the complete kit out at clubna-t - I've got the NA-T Gaskets sets, kits, boost controllers, etc all in stock and I'm doing free upgrades to the Tial style BOV this month and next.
Mark
