VSC and VSC Off Lights - Limp Mode
01-09-12 | 03:19 PM
#151
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 25
Likes: 2
From: Ca
hey! new to the forum. Well, ive been driving the car around in limp mode for a while. CEL, VSC, ABS, VSC OFF lights on. Pulled a code P1125 and thats it. Replaced throttle motor, erased code, and same thing. Changed tps, and same thing. Car starts fine and everything but is really slow. Should I mention my ball joint fell off a while back. Fixed it and then the lights came on later. I have no idea what to do now. PLease help. Thanks
01-09-12 | 03:20 PM
#152
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 25
Likes: 2
From: Ca
i got it fixed. When the throttle lever assy came in , it looked real easy to put in. attached by for screws and a wire. took about 45 mins to switch it but when the new part was on, i started her up and ooooooooo ya,,,,,, she ran great. all of the error codes went,limp mode was gone and after a test drive , i found no problems. thanks to everyone who helped me figure this out. and thanks luxor for the call.
01-10-12 | 08:56 AM
#153
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 410
Likes: 8
From: AZ
Glad you got that part fixed, and glad to know they call that part the lever assembly. Also, THANK YOU for putting up the part number and posting your results, its what makes this forum so awesome!
I replaced my Lever Assembly when I did the Control Motor as a safeguard, but I never knew what it was called because I swapped it from a used TB I got off greenleaf.
To all others: That part, with the 4 small screw/bolts and ring with spring that the throttle cable attached to is the actual sensor that reads where your foot is on the pedal. The throttle cable doesnt engage the actual throttle valve until the last 5% or so, as a safe guard to allow people to floor the car and drive in limp mode.
The Lever Assembly then sends a signal to the ECU which sends a signal to the Throttle Control Motor (also called the Idle Control Motor) Its on the front left side of the throttle body and, that motor then turns gears that actually turn the butterfly valve. That valve has an attachment that the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) then reads to make sure everything is working good.
Its a complex little system, but we've figured the bastard out! :-)
I replaced my Lever Assembly when I did the Control Motor as a safeguard, but I never knew what it was called because I swapped it from a used TB I got off greenleaf.
To all others: That part, with the 4 small screw/bolts and ring with spring that the throttle cable attached to is the actual sensor that reads where your foot is on the pedal. The throttle cable doesnt engage the actual throttle valve until the last 5% or so, as a safe guard to allow people to floor the car and drive in limp mode.
The Lever Assembly then sends a signal to the ECU which sends a signal to the Throttle Control Motor (also called the Idle Control Motor) Its on the front left side of the throttle body and, that motor then turns gears that actually turn the butterfly valve. That valve has an attachment that the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) then reads to make sure everything is working good.
Its a complex little system, but we've figured the bastard out! :-)
01-20-12 | 09:23 PM
#154
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 337
Likes: 31
From: Ca
Hey, my gf car has this this same problem. I ordered the Lever assembly and put it on. It didn't fix my problem......
It got a little better. Instead of driving it for 2 minutes then it goes limp. I can drive it for 15 minutes now.......
Any guess on what else could have cause my dash to light up like christmas and making the car go limp? only code i got was the throttle lever assembly.
I unplugged my battery for a while put it back on and it;s still the same...
I'm going to leave it unplugged overnight to see what happens.
It got a little better. Instead of driving it for 2 minutes then it goes limp. I can drive it for 15 minutes now.......
Any guess on what else could have cause my dash to light up like christmas and making the car go limp? only code i got was the throttle lever assembly.
I unplugged my battery for a while put it back on and it;s still the same...
I'm going to leave it unplugged overnight to see what happens.
Glad you got that part fixed, and glad to know they call that part the lever assembly. Also, THANK YOU for putting up the part number and posting your results, its what makes this forum so awesome!
I replaced my Lever Assembly when I did the Control Motor as a safeguard, but I never knew what it was called because I swapped it from a used TB I got off greenleaf.
To all others: That part, with the 4 small screw/bolts and ring with spring that the throttle cable attached to is the actual sensor that reads where your foot is on the pedal. The throttle cable doesnt engage the actual throttle valve until the last 5% or so, as a safe guard to allow people to floor the car and drive in limp mode.
The Lever Assembly then sends a signal to the ECU which sends a signal to the Throttle Control Motor (also called the Idle Control Motor) Its on the front left side of the throttle body and, that motor then turns gears that actually turn the butterfly valve. That valve has an attachment that the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) then reads to make sure everything is working good.
Its a complex little system, but we've figured the bastard out! :-)
I replaced my Lever Assembly when I did the Control Motor as a safeguard, but I never knew what it was called because I swapped it from a used TB I got off greenleaf.
To all others: That part, with the 4 small screw/bolts and ring with spring that the throttle cable attached to is the actual sensor that reads where your foot is on the pedal. The throttle cable doesnt engage the actual throttle valve until the last 5% or so, as a safe guard to allow people to floor the car and drive in limp mode.
The Lever Assembly then sends a signal to the ECU which sends a signal to the Throttle Control Motor (also called the Idle Control Motor) Its on the front left side of the throttle body and, that motor then turns gears that actually turn the butterfly valve. That valve has an attachment that the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) then reads to make sure everything is working good.
Its a complex little system, but we've figured the bastard out! :-)
01-25-12 | 10:26 AM
#155
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 410
Likes: 8
From: AZ
Throttle Control Motor or Throttle Position Sensor, or possibly the ECU.
My best advice is go to the beginning of this thread and read every single post in it. It will take time but you will probably come across enough info for you to rule out what it isnt, and enough knowledge to replace any of the potential bad parts.
My best advice is go to the beginning of this thread and read every single post in it. It will take time but you will probably come across enough info for you to rule out what it isnt, and enough knowledge to replace any of the potential bad parts.
Hey, my gf car has this this same problem. I ordered the Lever assembly and put it on. It didn't fix my problem......
It got a little better. Instead of driving it for 2 minutes then it goes limp. I can drive it for 15 minutes now.......
Any guess on what else could have cause my dash to light up like christmas and making the car go limp? only code i got was the throttle lever assembly.
I unplugged my battery for a while put it back on and it;s still the same...
I'm going to leave it unplugged overnight to see what happens.
It got a little better. Instead of driving it for 2 minutes then it goes limp. I can drive it for 15 minutes now.......
Any guess on what else could have cause my dash to light up like christmas and making the car go limp? only code i got was the throttle lever assembly.
I unplugged my battery for a while put it back on and it;s still the same...
I'm going to leave it unplugged overnight to see what happens.
01-30-12 | 10:40 AM
#156
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 337
Likes: 31
From: Ca
Yup, i read the entire thread from the beginning. Thats why i chose to replace the throttle lever assembly first ( > ^.^)>
I replaced the motor and the tps ..... Reset the ecu... Nothing is working..... FML. I just lost 600....
Does the vsc have it's own separate ecu or would it be my main ecu?
I replaced the motor and the tps ..... Reset the ecu... Nothing is working..... FML. I just lost 600....
Does the vsc have it's own separate ecu or would it be my main ecu?
Throttle Control Motor or Throttle Position Sensor, or possibly the ECU.
My best advice is go to the beginning of this thread and read every single post in it. It will take time but you will probably come across enough info for you to rule out what it isnt, and enough knowledge to replace any of the potential bad parts.
My best advice is go to the beginning of this thread and read every single post in it. It will take time but you will probably come across enough info for you to rule out what it isnt, and enough knowledge to replace any of the potential bad parts.
Last edited by Tuanville; 01-30-12 at 10:43 AM.
02-06-12 | 08:53 AM
#157
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 410
Likes: 8
From: AZ
Wow...So let me confirm: You have replaced all 3 electrical devices on the TB? The Lever assembly where the throttle cable actually connects, the Motor on the left front side of the TB, and the small TPS sensor on the front right side of the TB?
As for the VSC light, that is controlled by the Anti-Lock brake system (ABS), that is a module that mounts on the Master Cylinder. The ABS/VSC module sends a CUT-OFF signal to the throttle body which shuts down the throttle Motor - no throttle Motor, no movement of the throttle valve until you press the pedal to the floor and open the valve the 5% or so.
I think you may have a bad ABS module, or possible a bad ABS or VSC relay, OR you have an ABS sensor which is telling the ABS module to cut the throttle. If one of your ABS sensors is telling the module your locked up, then you will have no throttle. Or if the ABS module is malfunctioning after it warms up, due to a bad circuit board, it will send the cut-off signal.
As for the VSC light, that is controlled by the Anti-Lock brake system (ABS), that is a module that mounts on the Master Cylinder. The ABS/VSC module sends a CUT-OFF signal to the throttle body which shuts down the throttle Motor - no throttle Motor, no movement of the throttle valve until you press the pedal to the floor and open the valve the 5% or so.
I think you may have a bad ABS module, or possible a bad ABS or VSC relay, OR you have an ABS sensor which is telling the ABS module to cut the throttle. If one of your ABS sensors is telling the module your locked up, then you will have no throttle. Or if the ABS module is malfunctioning after it warms up, due to a bad circuit board, it will send the cut-off signal.
Yup, i read the entire thread from the beginning. Thats why i chose to replace the throttle lever assembly first ( > ^.^)>
I replaced the motor and the tps ..... Reset the ecu... Nothing is working..... FML. I just lost 600....
Does the vsc have it's own separate ecu or would it be my main ecu?
I replaced the motor and the tps ..... Reset the ecu... Nothing is working..... FML. I just lost 600....
Does the vsc have it's own separate ecu or would it be my main ecu?
02-16-12 | 11:25 AM
#158
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 337
Likes: 31
From: Ca
Fuuuuuuudge..... I was planning to replace that module on the master cylinder.... But now that I'm away and won't be back until summer. I won't post anymore updates until then. I just downloaded the entire 98-05 Lexus gs300/400/430 repair manual. I looked through it and it has some pretty good diagnostic procedures I want to try. Amazing how it covers every little detail about the car.
How do I post PDF files? They have a special section on the vsc problem/system I wanted to post. I believe there was a recall on the system also... If my sources are correct. I'll also post up PDF on how to diagnose the two sensors and motor. Thanks for your help.
How do I post PDF files? They have a special section on the vsc problem/system I wanted to post. I believe there was a recall on the system also... If my sources are correct. I'll also post up PDF on how to diagnose the two sensors and motor. Thanks for your help.
Wow...So let me confirm: You have replaced all 3 electrical devices on the TB? The Lever assembly where the throttle cable actually connects, the Motor on the left front side of the TB, and the small TPS sensor on the front right side of the TB?
As for the VSC light, that is controlled by the Anti-Lock brake system (ABS), that is a module that mounts on the Master Cylinder. The ABS/VSC module sends a CUT-OFF signal to the throttle body which shuts down the throttle Motor - no throttle Motor, no movement of the throttle valve until you press the pedal to the floor and open the valve the 5% or so.
I think you may have a bad ABS module, or possible a bad ABS or VSC relay, OR you have an ABS sensor which is telling the ABS module to cut the throttle. If one of your ABS sensors is telling the module your locked up, then you will have no throttle. Or if the ABS module is malfunctioning after it warms up, due to a bad circuit board, it will send the cut-off signal.
As for the VSC light, that is controlled by the Anti-Lock brake system (ABS), that is a module that mounts on the Master Cylinder. The ABS/VSC module sends a CUT-OFF signal to the throttle body which shuts down the throttle Motor - no throttle Motor, no movement of the throttle valve until you press the pedal to the floor and open the valve the 5% or so.
I think you may have a bad ABS module, or possible a bad ABS or VSC relay, OR you have an ABS sensor which is telling the ABS module to cut the throttle. If one of your ABS sensors is telling the module your locked up, then you will have no throttle. Or if the ABS module is malfunctioning after it warms up, due to a bad circuit board, it will send the cut-off signal.
Last edited by Tuanville; 02-16-12 at 11:30 AM.
02-17-12 | 11:05 AM
#159
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 410
Likes: 8
From: AZ
Posting thsat PDF as an attachment should work. That would be a great addition.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Fuuuuuuudge..... I was planning to replace that module on the master cylinder.... But now that I'm away and won't be back until summer. I won't post anymore updates until then. I just downloaded the entire 98-05 Lexus gs300/400/430 repair manual. I looked through it and it has some pretty good diagnostic procedures I want to try. Amazing how it covers every little detail about the car.
How do I post PDF files? They have a special section on the vsc problem/system I wanted to post. I believe there was a recall on the system also... If my sources are correct. I'll also post up PDF on how to diagnose the two sensors and motor. Thanks for your help.
How do I post PDF files? They have a special section on the vsc problem/system I wanted to post. I believe there was a recall on the system also... If my sources are correct. I'll also post up PDF on how to diagnose the two sensors and motor. Thanks for your help.
02-18-12 | 11:49 AM
#160
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: CA
P1127: ETCS Actuation Power Source Circuit Malfunction
My neighbor has a 98 GS 300 that only accelerates when the gas pedal is floored all the way. The VSC/ABS/CHECK ENGINE lights are one. She was told she needed to replace the whole throttle body with the TPS/Accelerator Actuator/Accelerator Position Sensor which would cost over $1200 for the parts minus labor. I have a 2002 GS 300 and I took her throttle body with the sensors and Throttle motor and put it in my car. My car was able to run without any issues. When I put my throttle body with the other components on her car it ran the same.
I checked the ECTS fuse and it was good. Checked it with a volt meter and it passed. There was a cable from the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor that had been in corroded with some yellow powder. Looked like sulfer and I checked for voltage and it read 4 volts I believe thru it. Nonetheless I still replaced that cable. Now I'm stuck with the dilema of it being the ECU. She sent the ECU to two different places and they can't figure out the code. They can't say that the ECU is bad but that they couldn't fix the code either. If it was to be the ECU and she got a used one, what would be the next step since the ECU and her key wouldn't match so the car wouldn't start. Can she call an automotive locksmith to reflash her key or does she also need to get a key to match her ignition?
I checked the ECTS fuse and it was good. Checked it with a volt meter and it passed. There was a cable from the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor that had been in corroded with some yellow powder. Looked like sulfer and I checked for voltage and it read 4 volts I believe thru it. Nonetheless I still replaced that cable. Now I'm stuck with the dilema of it being the ECU. She sent the ECU to two different places and they can't figure out the code. They can't say that the ECU is bad but that they couldn't fix the code either. If it was to be the ECU and she got a used one, what would be the next step since the ECU and her key wouldn't match so the car wouldn't start. Can she call an automotive locksmith to reflash her key or does she also need to get a key to match her ignition?
02-19-12 | 11:42 PM
#161
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 337
Likes: 31
From: Ca
VSC Components locations
There's a whole bunch of stuff that i need to post... At the moment I am feeling a little lazy, If there are any info anyone wants, let me know and I will post them.
There's a whole bunch of stuff that i need to post... At the moment I am feeling a little lazy, If there are any info anyone wants, let me know and I will post them.
Last edited by Tuanville; 02-20-12 at 12:05 AM.
02-20-12 | 12:07 AM
#164
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 337
Likes: 31
From: Ca
There's too much stuff on the VSC system for me to post........ I'll post more info that I think is useful later. How many people actually have the entire GS300 Repair manuals anyways?
02-20-12 | 02:07 PM
#165
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 337
Likes: 31
From: Ca
That's a pretty good question. First, can you swap your VSC ecu before you move ahead to the engine ecu?
I think in one of the PDF I post has info saying that the vsc has a "fail safe mode" and it will send that signal to the main ecu
Edited:
Whoops I didn't post it. But the vsc ecu seems to be under the dash and not on the brake booster...
I think in one of the PDF I post has info saying that the vsc has a "fail safe mode" and it will send that signal to the main ecu
Edited:
Whoops I didn't post it. But the vsc ecu seems to be under the dash and not on the brake booster...
My neighbor has a 98 GS 300 that only accelerates when the gas pedal is floored all the way. The VSC/ABS/CHECK ENGINE lights are one. She was told she needed to replace the whole throttle body with the TPS/Accelerator Actuator/Accelerator Position Sensor which would cost over $1200 for the parts minus labor. I have a 2002 GS 300 and I took her throttle body with the sensors and Throttle motor and put it in my car. My car was able to run without any issues. When I put my throttle body with the other components on her car it ran the same.
I checked the ECTS fuse and it was good. Checked it with a volt meter and it passed. There was a cable from the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor that had been in corroded with some yellow powder. Looked like sulfer and I checked for voltage and it read 4 volts I believe thru it. Nonetheless I still replaced that cable. Now I'm stuck with the dilema of it being the ECU. She sent the ECU to two different places and they can't figure out the code. They can't say that the ECU is bad but that they couldn't fix the code either. If it was to be the ECU and she got a used one, what would be the next step since the ECU and her key wouldn't match so the car wouldn't start. Can she call an automotive locksmith to reflash her key or does she also need to get a key to match her ignition?
I checked the ECTS fuse and it was good. Checked it with a volt meter and it passed. There was a cable from the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor that had been in corroded with some yellow powder. Looked like sulfer and I checked for voltage and it read 4 volts I believe thru it. Nonetheless I still replaced that cable. Now I'm stuck with the dilema of it being the ECU. She sent the ECU to two different places and they can't figure out the code. They can't say that the ECU is bad but that they couldn't fix the code either. If it was to be the ECU and she got a used one, what would be the next step since the ECU and her key wouldn't match so the car wouldn't start. Can she call an automotive locksmith to reflash her key or does she also need to get a key to match her ignition?
Last edited by Tuanville; 02-20-12 at 09:22 PM.