Originally Posted by kevs98GS4

for that kinda hp......you will have to have a built tranny! upgrades will not do! too much power for the sprags!

Originally Posted by Caoboy

350-400 is about the breaking point for the na transmissions.

any more than 450 and you are guaranteed to break it.

I do believe with a valve body upgrade, you can run 350-400 reliably, but for how long depends on how you drive i guess.

bottom line, get the transmission built if going for a bit more power.

Originally Posted by Caoboy

350-400 is about the breaking point for the na transmissions.

any more than 450 and you are guaranteed to break it.

I do believe with a valve body upgrade, you can run 350-400 reliably, but for how long depends on how you drive i guess.

bottom line, get the transmission built if going for a bit more power.

Originally Posted by BJ91T

Alright so you want to boost your GS300 here is what needs to be done.

* First off I see you have a 2000 Model Which uses a VVTI 2JZ you will need to start by replacing the weak VVTI connecting rods with the stonger units that can be found in non VVTI 2JZ's (GE or GTE they both use the same rods). If finding a factory set of rods is not an option many aftermarket companys make rods for the 2JZ from eagle to carillio,crower the list goes on and on and really depends on what you want to spend, however the connecting rod set is one of the most important peices in the engine.

Wrong, the rods are fine up to 450RWHP+

* Now that you have strong rods in the motor lets focus on pistons, yes you can reuse the stock VVTI pistons. However you will need to install new rings and have to block honed to put a fresh surface in the bores so that then new rings will seal. This is needed since you had to pull the pistons out to swap the rods DONT REUSE RINGS.

Bad info again, dont even think about keeping the stock pistons, I cracked just about every ringland at 450RWHP

*New Rods Means new bearings, Bring your head,block,crank,rods,and pistons to a trustworthy machine shop and have them all checked and balanced. Have new bearings installed etc.

No need to rebuild the block under 450RWHP or even crack open a valve cover for that matter

*Have the machine shop check your block and head to make sure they are both 100% flat (head suface and block deck). If they are off by even a hair have them cut to be straight. If they are cut take how much material was removed into account when you purcase your MHG (metal head gasket). If they did not need to be cut I reccomend either a stock twin turbo supra head gasket or a nice aftermarket peice, again these can be found anyplace that carrys supra parts pretty much. I reccomend atleast a 1.6mm to drop compression a little since this motor was NA factory it had higher compression. no need under 450 RWHP

*The rest of the turbo setup is up to you and you can go as big or as small as you want, here is what you will need

*2JZ-GE turbo manifold (can be found on ebay etc..)
*Turbo of your choice (must be flanged to fit the manifold obviously)
*External wastegate that fits your manifold
*Downpipe (or atleast a flange and some pipe that fits your turbos discharge)
*Intercooler
*Intercooler Pipe kit with silicone couplers and T-Bolt style clamps (it takes alot of pipe if you keep the stock intake manifold you may need more that one kit if you get one of the ebay kits)

*Blow off valve with a flange (make sure the flange is made of the same material your intercooler pipes are so it can be welded on)


*Wideband 02 sensor kit (not just an afr gauge that taps into a stock 02 sensor but a real wideband its better to spend the money on this than another rebuild down the road because you went lean and blew it up) AEM makes a nice kit for under $300

*Boost gauge
*Boost Controller manual or electronic (I prefer electronic you make the choice do reasearch on the unit that you like before you buy)

*Oil feed line 3 or 4 AN Nitrous line works well you need enough to run from the underside of the intake manifold, around back of the head and to the turbo keep that in mind.

*AN adpaters for the turbo feed line you will need to tap somewhere on your oil system to get oil to feed the turbo ( i usually tap onto the head of the large banjo bolt that holds the oil filter housing on the block)

*AN 10 - 1/2" NPT Adapter for the oil drain back into the pan

*1/2" NPT tap (you will see on the pan what needs to be drilled out and tapped to drain the turbos oil back into the pan its towards the front of the pan and looks like a flange thats just cast shut).

*I recomend getting a walbro 255 fuel pump depending on your goals it should do fine for most.

*Tuning device, thats up to you MAP ECU, Emanage, Full Standalone the choice is yours but dont expect to shove boost down its mouth and not tune for it. I had a map scu in my GS, I think I was the 1st guy to try it, it didn't work out too well, you really need to go stand alone, don't skimp on the piggy backs, you'll regret it!

*fuel injectors You may be fine on stock again it all depends on your power goals. I cannot remember what size the stock ones are but The car we have has 440cc/min injectors in it and we are close to maxing them out at 500RWHP. 440cc injectors making 500RWHP?? sounds like you're going to lock open an injector if you're cranking that much pressure to flow 500RWHP

*setting up a fuel return with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator would be a good idea if your going for Higher horsepower since the GS3 Stock is a returnless fuel system. Not a good idea, a must do

*an oil cooler would also be a good idea since a turbo makes oil super hot.
Do a tranny cooler, oil coolers aren't necessary under 500RWHP, I was making 700RWHP+ with my Supra, no oil cooler.

*Your transmission would like a trans cooler if you plan to shove any power over stock through it. It may need more that that ours started to slip right at about 450RWHP.


I know its long and alot to take in but if your going to go turbo you need to be ready for what needs to be done. All I can say is do it right the first time while some cheap parts are good be carefull of what you buy do your homework before you buy anything. Stay away from turbos with a hotside larger than .90 AR they will spool pretty much to late to have useable power.


BJ @ Sydicate Tuning

Originally Posted by JeffTsai

Adam knows his stuff so you should listen.

May I make a few corrections though. You do need to crack open the motor and install a thicker head gasket if you're gonna run more than 8-9psi reliably. If left with stock compression then max power would be around 320-350whp at 8-9psi. With HG and 15-16psi boost then power will be approx 420-450whp or so. This is taking into account the person is using a turbo around 60mm size.

Also, in your supra pushing 700hp...keep in mind the GTE comes stock with a coolant/oil heat exchanger on the oil filter. Yes it's not that great of a solution but it is still a cooler. On the GE motor there is no such cooler. I would suggest an external cooler on the GE motor if running around the 500hp mark. Also, for those of you guys planning to boost make sure to use a good synthetic oil that will not sludge as easily.

And the final point which nearly EVERYONE cheaps out on and regrets later on...the engine management. Plain and simple and straight to the point: a piggyback will never run the car as nicely as a properly tuned standalone. I made around 75hp more from switching to a standalone compared to a piggyback at the same 14psi.