Lexus IS350 06-07 Prostreet S/C Kit
#181
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isex= did you get a chance to get a sound clip yet? Why does S/C is350 have that sound like a headers leak? Is that normal? Is there anyway to get the S/C whine sound to sound like others car with S/C? This example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LcQBhLAL5k
I thought our cars dyno at 260-375 WHP? Isn't that baseline a bit low? Our car stock crank at 306. I was really considering boosting the is350 although its not the best bang for the best buck but its still nice to have. But i am also planning to keep the car for 10+ yrs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LcQBhLAL5k
I thought our cars dyno at 260-375 WHP? Isn't that baseline a bit low? Our car stock crank at 306. I was really considering boosting the is350 although its not the best bang for the best buck but its still nice to have. But i am also planning to keep the car for 10+ yrs.
#182
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Hey boys, I'm glad that you're seeing first hand the benefits of the Synchronic design on your SC system. I watched the videos and have a couple of tips that will make the BOV work, about 100% better for your application.
Give these things a try and you should see some marked improvements. If any of you are close to San Diego, you are welcome to come down and use our dyno for testing.
- Please connect the 3rd port (Port C) to a boost-only source. Do not, use a check valve to a vacuum source as it will trap pressure. Try to gett boost-only from one of the charge pipes, or perhaps a threaded fitting on the compressor housing.
- Once you have boost-only connected, play around with different hose combinations of the vac hoses on the back. You have 3 possible combinations, both hoses, and 2 with only either hose on the back connected.
- You can also remove the re-circ fitting, it looks cleaner, and it helps discharge the air with a larger radius of discharge immediately after the valve head.
Give these things a try and you should see some marked improvements. If any of you are close to San Diego, you are welcome to come down and use our dyno for testing.
From reading your site I thought port C was for higher boost systems. The supercharger they are talking about is only a 5psi??
If you tap into the intercooler pipe coming from your supercharger outlet ( for boost-only source) at idle won't it produce vacuum?
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It won't produce vacuum. Vac is only produced after the throttle, since the engine is pumping against a massive restriction, eg closed throttle plate. There is actually boost there instead, depending on the pulley. With the Synchronic BOV open at vac conditions like it is, you are probably having improved idle quality over anything that is closed because you are eliminating all idle-overrun issues you may be having. Did you notice that you are running more vac with the Synchronic as well? Do you notice a difference under heavy braking as well?
Turbos tend to drop in shaft speed and flow once you close the throttle. Since blowers maintain the same flow depending on the RPM that you shut the throttle, it might be advisable to look into running Port C to see if you have a potential improvement in performance whenever you shut the throttle. But, if all is good at 5 psi, you can leave it alone.
#184
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It won't produce vacuum. Vac is only produced after the throttle, since the engine is pumping against a massive restriction, eg closed throttle plate. There is actually boost there instead, depending on the pulley. With the Synchronic BOV open at vac conditions like it is, you are probably having improved idle quality over anything that is closed because you are eliminating all idle-overrun issues you may be having. Did you notice that you are running more vac with the Synchronic as well? Do you notice a difference under heavy braking as well?
Turbos tend to drop in shaft speed and flow once you close the throttle. Since blowers maintain the same flow depending on the RPM that you shut the throttle, it might be advisable to look into running Port C to see if you have a potential improvement in performance whenever you shut the throttle. But, if all is good at 5 psi, you can leave it alone.
Turbos tend to drop in shaft speed and flow once you close the throttle. Since blowers maintain the same flow depending on the RPM that you shut the throttle, it might be advisable to look into running Port C to see if you have a potential improvement in performance whenever you shut the throttle. But, if all is good at 5 psi, you can leave it alone.
I can't quite tell what is surge from all the You Tube Videos that I listened to.?
I have a GS430 instead of an IS350 but I seem to not have the boost that I I should have like KMRIS350 was experiencing on his IS350. I think he said that the Synapse seem to help.
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isex= did you get a chance to get a sound clip yet? Why does S/C is350 have that sound like a headers leak? Is that normal? Is there anyway to get the S/C whine sound to sound like others car with S/C? This example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LcQBhLAL5k
I thought our cars dyno at 260-375 WHP? Isn't that baseline a bit low? Our car stock crank at 306. I was really considering boosting the is350 although its not the best bang for the best buck but its still nice to have. But i am also planning to keep the car for 10+ yrs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LcQBhLAL5k
I thought our cars dyno at 260-375 WHP? Isn't that baseline a bit low? Our car stock crank at 306. I was really considering boosting the is350 although its not the best bang for the best buck but its still nice to have. But i am also planning to keep the car for 10+ yrs.
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Main thing is that the Synapse Synchronic will not leak boost.
Flutter is actually worse on a centrifugal blower than a turbo, because, the drive mechanism is still spinning the compressor at whatever the rpm the throttle gets shut. So, the blower is heavily loaded (builds up heat too) until one of 2 things happen: throttle opens up again, or pressure is finally vented out
Flutter is actually worse on a centrifugal blower than a turbo, because, the drive mechanism is still spinning the compressor at whatever the rpm the throttle gets shut. So, the blower is heavily loaded (builds up heat too) until one of 2 things happen: throttle opens up again, or pressure is finally vented out
#187
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dont get me wrong, boost is
but I dont see how piecing a kit up would cost anywhere near the $5k msrp. $50 for a filter, $20-30 for a pulley, $100-150 for an intercooler, some U-bend, couplers, clamps, and of course the procharger. I think the most troublesome part is to fabricate piping and brackets. correct me if i'm wrong
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I came up w/ this list ( of course any discount you can get the better)
Pro charger retails esti $2700
custom bracket esti $200-300
crank pulley made approx? 200-300
filter $50
S/C pulley $75
tension pulley $25
Hoses esti $100-150
Aluminum piping esti $150-250
inter cooler esti $300-400
ned to add anything to it?
around $3500 give or take $. still a decent saving.
#188
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isex= did you get a chance to get a sound clip yet? Why does S/C is350 have that sound like a headers leak? Is that normal? Is there anyway to get the S/C whine sound to sound like others car with S/C? This example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LcQBhLAL5k
I thought our cars dyno at 260-375 WHP? Isn't that baseline a bit low? Our car stock crank at 306. I was really considering boosting the is350 although its not the best bang for the best buck but its still nice to have. But i am also planning to keep the car for 10+ yrs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LcQBhLAL5k
I thought our cars dyno at 260-375 WHP? Isn't that baseline a bit low? Our car stock crank at 306. I was really considering boosting the is350 although its not the best bang for the best buck but its still nice to have. But i am also planning to keep the car for 10+ yrs.
#189
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Hey boys, I'm glad that you're seeing first hand the benefits of the Synchronic design on your SC system. I watched the videos and have a couple of tips that will make the BOV work, about 100% better for your application.
Give these things a try and you should see some marked improvements. If any of you are close to San Diego, you are welcome to come down and use our dyno for testing.
- Please connect the 3rd port (Port C) to a boost-only source. Do not, use a check valve to a vacuum source as it will trap pressure. Try to gett boost-only from one of the charge pipes, or perhaps a threaded fitting on the compressor housing.
- Once you have boost-only connected, play around with different hose combinations of the vac hoses on the back. You have 3 possible combinations, both hoses, and 2 with only either hose on the back connected.
- You can also remove the re-circ fitting, it looks cleaner, and it helps discharge the air with a larger radius of discharge immediately after the valve head.
Give these things a try and you should see some marked improvements. If any of you are close to San Diego, you are welcome to come down and use our dyno for testing.
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It’s a great product! No more boost leaks and surging “flutter sound” since I switched over. I was going to play with port C and a couple other settings but I’m actually thinking that it’s working great now. The only thing I notice is that if I rev hard in neutral and let off the RPMs drop dangerously low. It has never stalled but it sounds close. I have never had any issues driving. Just parked in N. I’m assuming it’s because of the MAF. I have the BOV installed before the MAF. Do you think its necessary to run the stall converter on the BOV ? Or is this normal? BTW- I have noticed my boost gauge shows more vac since I installed the BOV.
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#191
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It’s a great product! No more boost leaks and surging “flutter sound” since I switched over. I was going to play with port C and a couple other settings but I’m actually thinking that it’s working great now. The only thing I notice is that if I rev hard in neutral and let off the RPMs drop dangerously low. It has never stalled but it sounds close. I have never had any issues driving. Just parked in N. I’m assuming it’s because of the MAF. I have the BOV installed before the MAF. Do you think its necessary to run the stall converter on the BOV ? Or is this normal? BTW- I have noticed my boost gauge shows more vac since I installed the BOV.
What?!?!? I totally don't understand what you just said.
#192
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It’s a great product! No more boost leaks and surging “flutter sound” since I switched over. I was going to play with port C and a couple other settings but I’m actually thinking that it’s working great now. The only thing I notice is that if I rev hard in neutral and let off the RPMs drop dangerously low. It has never stalled but it sounds close. I have never had any issues driving. Just parked in N. I’m assuming it’s because of the MAF. I have the BOV installed before the MAF. Do you think its necessary to run the stall converter on the BOV ? Or is this normal? BTW- I have noticed my boost gauge shows more vac since I installed the BOV.
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I see several issues that one would face if you boost the 2IS.
As everyone has already mentioned above, IS250+boost surpasses the cost of the IS350 and still lacks larger brakes, wheels and VDIM. The transmission is also weaker.
IS350 runs 28 deg of timing advance on WOT. Combine high comp with boost and this much timing and forget about reliability.
I think that a IS300 from middle east with 3GR-FE and 6 speed manual would work out excellent. Swap the block with the 1GR-FE 4.0L V6 from the 4 runner and boost it. You would have an IS400 with boost and no-direct injection to be concerned about. Add the Greddy e-manage ultimate to monitor the timing and change it as needed to safe gaurd the engine. Now no one has done this but I'm predicting it would work out well. Even injectors could be swapped with the larger ones.
BTW, centrifugal superchargers (or turbos on a stick) are unreliable. The RPM required for the compressor section to spin is the same as a turbocharger. They use gear, chain or belt drive multiplication to get the impeller motivated. IMO, their quality is terrible and the fall apart. Roots style blowers deliver power earlier in the RPMs but they also have their own set of issues. The only centrifugal surercharger that I predict will be dependable is the Rotrex. They use planetary gear drive like inside an automatic transmission to get the work done. They are smaller in size compared to the competition and could be equipped with an electrical clutch to activate it.
As everyone has already mentioned above, IS250+boost surpasses the cost of the IS350 and still lacks larger brakes, wheels and VDIM. The transmission is also weaker.
IS350 runs 28 deg of timing advance on WOT. Combine high comp with boost and this much timing and forget about reliability.
I think that a IS300 from middle east with 3GR-FE and 6 speed manual would work out excellent. Swap the block with the 1GR-FE 4.0L V6 from the 4 runner and boost it. You would have an IS400 with boost and no-direct injection to be concerned about. Add the Greddy e-manage ultimate to monitor the timing and change it as needed to safe gaurd the engine. Now no one has done this but I'm predicting it would work out well. Even injectors could be swapped with the larger ones.
BTW, centrifugal superchargers (or turbos on a stick) are unreliable. The RPM required for the compressor section to spin is the same as a turbocharger. They use gear, chain or belt drive multiplication to get the impeller motivated. IMO, their quality is terrible and the fall apart. Roots style blowers deliver power earlier in the RPMs but they also have their own set of issues. The only centrifugal surercharger that I predict will be dependable is the Rotrex. They use planetary gear drive like inside an automatic transmission to get the work done. They are smaller in size compared to the competition and could be equipped with an electrical clutch to activate it.
#195
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This is a tuning term called "decelerated air" What it means is close to what your already hinting on. When your under heavy loads (high rpms) and let off the throttle plate air in the inlet pipe goes stagnant. This causes a lean cond. because the motor is seeing no airflow. You almost experience a motor stall and sometimes it can stall. The easy way to fix this is to buy a SAFC and use the decelerated air feature for turbo cars. Or you can install a bypass valve in place of the blow off valve. Both will fix your problem.